On Thu, Mar 24, 2022 at 09:35 AM, Johannes wrote:
I got many feedbacks now, so I decided to remove again the motor from the electronic box to make a new inside look.
Then a found the big white connector from motor to PCB was not in correctly position.
I just press it in correct position and motor run perfect (with a little bit unstable rotation)
?
So this is a free advice ( from a man that should know better): Check the connectors! Specially when you open the electronic box .
That's excellent! Back to work! :)
|
If you have the strength and space, take the whole thing---
.
The steel frame is usually 1/8" to 3/16" wall thickness steel
square tubing, perfect for your next project
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Show quoted text
On 3/24/2022 2:03 PM, Bruce J wrote:
I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery
with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller
from one on bulky trash day :-)
A lot
of people?have used motors salvaged from treadmills.?
?May time people think they are going to get fit and
lose weight so they buy a treadmill, then latter find
they never use it.? ?So used ones are cheap and easy to
find.
The
motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you
have to design a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe
even free) treadmill.
I have
one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor
that came with the lathe, but what the heck, it was
free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at
3:23 PM Johannes < johannes@...>
wrote:
Hi
group
?
I
have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is
gone.
It
need a manual twist ?to run and the motor make a
lot of noise.
?
Sometimes
ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took
out the rotor.
The
axel under the bearing was very worn, I did
something and it has worked ok until today.
?
A
new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will
cost me 350/400 USD.
So
before I order, I ask my group :
is it possible to get
a new motor that can replace and fit to my
5200 lathe ?
?
350/400
USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-)
?
If
someone have some experience with this motor or
similar , you are welcome to give me some
advice.
?
Best
regards
Johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
Good data, Thanks!?? Bill ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
|
Re: X axis DRO, my next project
Thanks Mark. I appreciate the offer.??I think I have some small caps here back when I raced RC truck. If not and I need one I'll get in touch.??I ordered the Shars stainless one today. Should be here next week and I'll get to work getting it mounted and see how it goes.?
Do you find yours goes through batteries pretty quick or do they last a while?
Thanks.?
Ryan
On Mar 24, 2022, 11:46 AM -0400, Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...>, wrote:
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 08:27 PM, Ryan H wrote:
Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
I have a 7x12 so a 12" scale worked without needing any cutting.? I used a 50V nonpolarized capacitor (I have a ziplock-sized bag of them).? It's overkill as far as the working voltage goes and a bit on the large size as a result -- but the case on my sensor was big enough to accommodate it.? It's green so it matches the PCB :)
If you use an electrolytic just make sure it's connected up correctly so the "+" terminal is soldered to +3.3 (Vcc or Vdd).
Here's a photo of the capacitor soldered down to the board.? I used the USB connector's case for the ground.? Hopefully you won't need it.? But if it turns out you do and you don't have any capacitors in that range, PM me with your address and I will mail you one.?
<>
Attachments:
|
??? ??? ON a lot of the motors the flywheel is also the cooling
fan .
??? ??? animal
On 3/24/2022 1:06 PM, Bruce J wrote:
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Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2022, at 11:19 AM, Bill Williams < BWMSBLDR1@...>
wrote:
Bruce, I have several as
well as a couple of recycled electric lawn mower motors.
The mower motors are rated at 1.1 HP and 4000 RPM. As an
experiment I set one up with a light dimmer switch and
it ran fine unloaded as a demo! I would however use a
motor controller in a real world application.?
?
Could you give a quick
rundown on removing the motor and controller from a
treadmill??
Both times the treadmill was already pretty beat up, (one
was already mostly disassembled, so I just removed the plastic
cover on the other by breaking it off. ?
The motors were bolted on with two bolts attached to a
bracket welded on the side of it. ?One was missing the
controller and other electronics, so all I got was the motor.?
Finding the controller pn the other was just a matter of
tracing the wires from the motor back to it for the other one;
it was mounted close by the motor. the other controls were
plugged into the controller board. There was also a big
transformer-looking thing (although it only has twp wires, so
it¡¯s just a large choke.) that I grabbed as well.
Also pretty much all of the controller boards look alike
(and are easy to replace) typically look like this:?
On the second one I got a bonus, tucked in next to the
controller was a manufacturer¡¯s tech sheet showing the pinout
and specs of the controller :-) This also seems pretty
generic; I¡¯m pretty sure I scanned it; if I remember tonight
I¡¯ll post that here, since it¡¯s a useful thing to have if
you¡¯re retrofitting one.
I¡¯d intended to use one on my old 8x36 wood lathe, but
honestly the old 110v cooler motor on it has worked well
enough that I didn¡¯t feel the need.
A note: the big heavy flywheel/pulley on the shaft DOES
come off, but it¡¯s left-handed threaded. ?
?
And how do you identify
the motor controller from the rest of the p c board?
?
Bill in Boulder CO
?
Sent from??for Windows 10
?
From:?Bruce J
Sent:?Thursday,
March 24, 2022 12:03
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re:
[7x12MiniLathe] LMS 5200 Lathe motor
?
I have two of them; takes
about 15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman
or similar tool to yank it and the controller from one
on bulky trash day :-)
?
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
? WHen you harvest the motor try to get the power supply . It
will be teh circuit board that the motor wires come from &
usually therea a transformer looking unit nearby that you will
want also.? If you end up with a MC 60 or MC 40 those can be run
with only a power switch & a potentiometer . If you ENd up
with a MC 2100 you will need a PWm controller & their @ $
10.00 on amazon or ebay .
??? ??? animal
On 3/24/2022 11:03 AM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery
with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller
from one on bulky trash day :-)
A lot
of people?have used motors salvaged from treadmills.?
?May time people think they are going to get fit and
lose weight so they buy a treadmill, then latter find
they never use it.? ?So used ones are cheap and easy to
find.
The
motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you
have to design a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe
even free) treadmill.
I have
one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor
that came with the lathe, but what the heck, it was
free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at
3:23 PM Johannes < johannes@...>
wrote:
Hi
group
?
I
have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is
gone.
It
need a manual twist ?to run and the motor make a
lot of noise.
?
Sometimes
ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took
out the rotor.
The
axel under the bearing was very worn, I did
something and it has worked ok until today.
?
A
new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will
cost me 350/400 USD.
So
before I order, I ask my group :
is it possible to get
a new motor that can replace and fit to my
5200 lathe ?
?
350/400
USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-)
?
If
someone have some experience with this motor or
similar , you are welcome to give me some
advice.
?
Best
regards
Johannes
Mexico
?
?
?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
The typical "free" treadmill motor can work on a tool but there
are things to consider, including that these are usually open, permanent
magnet motors and can attract ferrous swarf and jam up.? So they
need protection that allows cooling air flow.?? Cooling fans
are usually separate from the motor itself and may need ducting.?
There will likely be a combined poly-vee drive pulley and flywheel.?
Drives vary, but are often a basic SCR drive with a choke and maybe a
capacitor.? The combination of the flywheel and the smoothing
choke/capacitor means the motor will run smoothly, without the jerking
and buzzing often found in industrial drives (necessary for safe
treadmill operation).? New treadmills may have a PWM drive
setup.? Some use AC motors with VFDs.? Treadmill motor
horsepower ratings are exaggerated.? Anyway, point is that you can
drive a mini-lathe with a treadmill motor and drive, but it will take
some effort and likely greatly increase the weight and volume of the
lathe.? The electronically commutated sewing machine motors are
cheap and might be a better option for some.????
At 11:03 AM 3/24/2022 -0700, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have two of them; takes about
15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman or similar tool to yank
it and the controller from one on bulky trash day :-)
On Mar 24, 2022, at 10:58 AM,
Chris Albertson
<
albertson.chris@...> wrote:
A lot of people have used motors salvaged from treadmills.??
May time people think they are going to get fit and lose weight so they
buy a treadmill, then latter find they never use it.?? So used
ones are cheap and easy to find.
The motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you have to design
a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe even free)
treadmill.
I have one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor that came
with the lathe, but what the heck, it was free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 3:23 PM Johannes
<johannes@...>
wrote:
- Hi group
- ?
- I have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is gone.
- It need a manual twist? to run and the motor make a lot of
noise.
- ?
- Sometimes ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took out the
rotor.
- The axel under the bearing was very worn, I did something and it has
worked ok until today.
- ?
- A new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will cost me 350/400
USD.
- So before I order, I ask my group :
- is it possible to get a new motor that can replace and fit to my 5200
lathe ?
- ?
- 350/400 USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-)
- ?
- If someone have some experience with this motor or similar , you are
welcome to give me some advice.
- ?
- Best regards
- Johannes
- Mexico
- ?
- ?
- ?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
On Mar 24, 2022, at 11:19 AM, Bill Williams < BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:
Bruce, I have several as well as a couple of recycled electric lawn mower motors. The mower motors are rated at 1.1 HP and 4000 RPM. As an experiment I set one up with a light dimmer switch and it ran fine unloaded as a demo! I would however use a motor controller in a real world application.? ? Could you give a quick rundown on removing the motor and controller from a treadmill??
Both times the treadmill was already pretty beat up, (one was already mostly disassembled, so I just removed the plastic cover on the other by breaking it off. ?
The motors were bolted on with two bolts attached to a bracket welded on the side of it. ?One was missing the controller and other electronics, so all I got was the motor.?
Finding the controller pn the other was just a matter of tracing the wires from the motor back to it for the other one; it was mounted close by the motor. the other controls were plugged into the controller board. There was also a big transformer-looking thing (although it only has twp wires, so it¡¯s just a large choke.) that I grabbed as well.
Also pretty much all of the controller boards look alike (and are easy to replace) typically look like this:?
On the second one I got a bonus, tucked in next to the controller was a manufacturer¡¯s tech sheet showing the pinout and specs of the controller :-) This also seems pretty generic; I¡¯m pretty sure I scanned it; if I remember tonight I¡¯ll post that here, since it¡¯s a useful thing to have if you¡¯re retrofitting one.
I¡¯d intended to use one on my old 8x36 wood lathe, but honestly the old 110v cooler motor on it has worked well enough that I didn¡¯t feel the need.
A note: the big heavy flywheel/pulley on the shaft DOES come off, but it¡¯s left-handed threaded. ?
? And how do you identify the motor controller from the rest of the p c board? ? Bill in Boulder CO ? Sent from??for Windows 10 ? ? I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller from one on bulky trash day :-) ?
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
Bruce, I have several as well as a couple of recycled electric lawn mower motors. The mower motors are rated at 1.1 HP and 4000 RPM. As an experiment I set one up with a light dimmer switch and it ran fine unloaded as a demo! I would however use a motor controller in a real world application. ? Could you give a quick rundown on removing the motor and controller from a treadmill? ? And how do you identify the motor controller from the rest of the p c board? ? Bill in Boulder CO ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Bruce JSent: Thursday, March 24, 2022 12:03 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] LMS 5200 Lathe motor ? I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller from one on bulky trash day :-) ?
|
I have two of them; takes about 15 minutes of roadside surgery with a leatherman or similar tool to yank it and the controller from one on bulky trash day :-)
A lot of people?have used motors salvaged from treadmills.? ?May time people think they are going to get fit and lose weight so they buy a treadmill, then latter find they never use it.? ?So used ones are cheap and easy to find.
The motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you have to design a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe even free) treadmill.
I have one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor that came with the lathe, but what the heck, it was free. On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 3:23 PM Johannes < johannes@...> wrote: Hi group ? I have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is gone. It need a manual twist ?to run and the motor make a lot of noise. ? Sometimes ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took out the rotor. The axel under the bearing was very worn, I did something and it has worked ok until today. ? A new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will cost me 350/400 USD. So before I order, I ask my group : is it possible to get a new motor that can replace and fit to my 5200 lathe ? ? 350/400 USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-) ? If someone have some experience with this motor or similar , you are welcome to give me some advice. ? Best regards Johannes Mexico ? ? ?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
A lot of people?have used motors salvaged from treadmills.? ?May time people think they are going to get fit and lose weight so they buy a treadmill, then latter find they never use it.? ?So used ones are cheap and easy to find.
The motor is typically bigger then what you need. and you have to design a mount and belt.? Look for a used (maybe even free) treadmill.
I have one and the motor is 4X the weight and size of the motor that came with the lathe, but what the heck, it was free.
On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 3:23 PM Johannes < johannes@...> wrote: Hi group ? I have a 5200 LMS lathe, and I think the motor is gone. It need a manual twist ?to run and the motor make a lot of noise. ? Sometimes ago the motor make a lot of noise, and I took out the rotor. The axel under the bearing was very worn, I did something and it has worked ok until today. ? A new LMS 4145? 500 Watt Brushless DC motor will cost me 350/400 USD. So before I order, I ask my group : is it possible to get a new motor that can replace and fit to my 5200 lathe ? ? 350/400 USD Is nearly 1/3 of a new lathe? :-) ? If someone have some experience with this motor or similar , you are welcome to give me some advice. ? Best regards Johannes Mexico ? ? ?
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
|
Hi group ? Some days ago I complain and asked for advice and help about my LMS 5200 lathe BLDC motor. It would not start automatically, it needed a manual twist and it made a terrible noise. The FAULT lamp was also lightning. ? I had some time ?(one year?) had a problem with unstable rotor , so I open it and found a (ugly) worn axel under the bearing, but it run. I got many feedbacks now, so I decided to remove again the motor from the electronic box to make a new inside look. Then a found the big white connector from motor to PCB was not in correctly position. I just press it in correct position and motor run perfect (with a little bit unstable rotation) ? So this is a free advice ( from a man that should know better): Check the connectors! Specially when you open the electronic box . ? Many thanks to WAM that send a lot of links about how a BLDC motor works. This is one:
? /johannes ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
|
Re: X axis DRO, my next project
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 08:27 PM, Ryan H wrote:
Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
I have a 7x12 so a 12" scale worked without needing any cutting.? I used a 50V nonpolarized capacitor (I have a ziplock-sized bag of them).? It's overkill as far as the working voltage goes and a bit on the large size as a result -- but the case on my sensor was big enough to accommodate it.? It's green so it matches the PCB :) If you use an electrolytic just make sure it's connected up correctly so the "+" terminal is soldered to +3.3 (Vcc or Vdd). Here's a photo of the capacitor soldered down to the board.? I used the USB connector's case for the ground.? Hopefully you won't need it.? But if it turns out you do and you don't have any capacitors in that range, PM me with your address and I will mail you one.? 
|
Re: Mini Lathe - Mini Mill
The fignoggle?split delrin nuts do take out most of the backlash. What is left is the play in the x axis bearings, and the y steel on steel. Some of that can be taken out with the handwheel nut adjustment. You can get it down to just a couple of thousands, but I can't get it all out. I've made a lot of stuff on the mill and the little bit of backlash hasn't been a problem. I would probably switch it over from the metric screw to the SAE screw if it came with the adjustable split nuts.?
I've heard of people making plastic?nuts from thermoplastic and I know of one person who did make?some.? You could machine or print them.? In either case, the threads are made undersize then? you clamp them over a heated metal screw, and the plastic flows.? ? The application where this was used was not a lathe but a tracking camera mount that moved a good size camera and its attached optics.? ? ??
The next step up in quality is ball screws.? ? I have some.? I bought the cheapest I could find on Amazon.? I tried to figure out how to measure backlash and periodic error and gave up.? You need something?better than?a dial indicator?to measure it.? ?If your measurement tool only good to 0.0005", then the cheapest?grade of Chinese ball screw is "mechanically perfect".
Back to the heat-formed plastic nut.? ?The error in that drive was due to a periodic error in the screw.? ?It was a really cheap screw.?
The /g/Mini-Mills/topics
doesn't show any activity since September of 2021.
On 3/23/2022 10:00 AM, Floyd Burkett
wrote:
Went to that mini-mill forum and I'm a member. So I
sent a test notification to my browser and didn't get it. I
guess I need to play with it a bit until I get the
notifications.
My mill has the Fignoggle adjustable nuts on the lead
screws so it actually has very little backlash. I also have
DRO's on all the axis. I just wondered if it would be worth
the effort to change out the lead screws. Thanks for the heads
up on that forum.
Floyd
I?
own a Micro-Mark benchtop mill and it came with Imperial lead
screws and nuts.? Of course it had backlash -- all feed screws
of this type do -- but it's been very usable.? The X axis is
better than the Y axis because it has thrust bearings while
the Y axis is a steel-on-steel, friction-prone affair.? You're
forced to balance the effort to turn the handwheel vs. how
much backlash you have.?
The mini-mill forum can be found here: /g/Mini-Mills/topics.?
-Mark
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
|
Re: X axis DRO, my next project
Chris, let me express my admiration for your solution to your lathe travel measurement question. Cheap, simple, reliable; what¡¯s not to love! I am going to put that at the head of my ¡°Projects To Do list¡±! ? On another note I frequently read questions from the newbies asking for sources of information on basic lathe operations. I do not think that many are exposed to this sort of education in high school. That is a shame for as we all know this is a very entertaining hobby! But do not despair for there is an outstanding series of books covering all aspects of machine tools. I refer to the books written by Fred H. Colvin and various coauthors through the first half of the 20th century. I have found them both s original editions and as Lindsay reprints at very reasonable prices. I recommend ¡°Running an Engine Lathe¡± as a good starting point. ? These books have been very useful to me in my hobby and sometime business!??? Bill in Boulder CO ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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|
Re: X axis DRO, my next project
Mark, great info, thanks. Did you use one of those tiny little yellow/orange caps in the read head???It fit inside the case???I'm guessing you used a 24" scale and cut it?
Thanks Chris. I couldn't come up with why I'd care if the DRO had an absolute feature or not.?
The DRO I have on my tailstock is a 12 dollar caliper I cut up and that really makes drilling, counter boring, etc to a specific depth a breeze. That's what really got me to thinking about the Z axis DRO. For that though I do think I want it to cover the full length of travel but a short one with magnetic mounts on the front from a caliper could work for a while.?
I don't have a mill or 3d printer so making mounting brackets is a vice and file job here LOL.?
Ryan
On Mar 23, 2022, 7:52 PM -0400, Chris Albertson <albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
Aargh!??I meant Z axis, parallel to the bed.??That's what I get for getting involved in a project too late at night, LOL.?
Chris, that's a nice setup you've got there. That looks great for doing extremely precision work. Definitely something to keep in mind but for what I'm doing it would require a lot of install and removal.?
That is why I suggesting using magnets.? ?Buy a $7 digital caliper at .? You can buy magnets but I salvage then from dead computer hard drives and have a good stock of them.? ?BTW the dead hard drives have really nice diecast aluminum chassis that can be cut up and milled to make brackets and whatever.?
It helps to have a 3D printer so you can make spacers and mount brakets.? The cheap PLA plastic really is rigid enough for a use like this.? ? ?
I don't think my DO is "absolute" or that I'd want it to be.? Calipers are absolute, meaning that the meauser relative to dead-zero.? Mine measure from wherever you last pushed the "zero" button.? I think that is what yu want.? You bring the tool incontact with the part, press zero then crank the handle until the DRO says "12.00 mm" or whatever?you need.? ? In machining distance is always relative to some reference face.? ?I would never care to know the distance from the spindle.
For a lathe, I think DRO gives you 99% of what you need.? A milling machine?becomes 1000 times more useful?with CNC but with a lathe, a simple readout is enough.??
?
I looked at the iGaging absolute stainless but they're a bit more than I want to spend and I'm not sure there's any advantage to the "absolute" feature on lathe Z axis???They do have an input for a power transformer so that would eliminate batteries.? ?Is there something there I'm not thinking of in regards to the absolute feature?
That's what led me to the Shars ones. A bit more affordable and stainless but I'm not seeing much around the web about them. I'm fairly set on stainless scales as they seem to be less problematic than aluminum even if they are almost 2x the cost.
On Mar 23, 2022, 3:02 PM -0400, Chris Albertson < albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
If you want "simple".? ?You can attach an iGauging" type DRO with magnets.? Glue the magnets to the DRO scale.? ? ? This is not a lot different from placing a magnetic base on a dial indicator.?
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
![]()
Attachments:
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
|
Re: X axis DRO, my next project
Aargh!??I meant Z axis, parallel to the bed.??That's what I get for getting involved in a project too late at night, LOL.?
Chris, that's a nice setup you've got there. That looks great for doing extremely precision work. Definitely something to keep in mind but for what I'm doing it would require a lot of install and removal.?
That is why I suggesting using magnets.? ?Buy a $7 digital caliper at .? You can buy magnets but I salvage then from dead computer hard drives and have a good stock of them.? ?BTW the dead hard drives have really nice diecast aluminum chassis that can be cut up and milled to make brackets and whatever.?
It helps to have a 3D printer so you can make spacers and mount brakets.? The cheap PLA plastic really is rigid enough for a use like this.? ? ?
I don't think my DO is "absolute" or that I'd want it to be.? Calipers are absolute, meaning that the meauser relative to dead-zero.? Mine measure from wherever you last pushed the "zero" button.? I think that is what yu want.? You bring the tool incontact with the part, press zero then crank the handle until the DRO says "12.00 mm" or whatever?you need.? ? In machining distance is always relative to some reference face.? ?I would never care to know the distance from the spindle.
For a lathe, I think DRO gives you 99% of what you need.? A milling machine?becomes 1000 times more useful?with CNC but with a lathe, a simple readout is enough.??
?
I looked at the iGaging absolute stainless but they're a bit more than I want to spend and I'm not sure there's any advantage to the "absolute" feature on lathe Z axis???They do have an input for a power transformer so that would eliminate batteries.? ?Is there something there I'm not thinking of in regards to the absolute feature?
That's what led me to the Shars ones. A bit more affordable and stainless but I'm not seeing much around the web about them. I'm fairly set on stainless scales as they seem to be less problematic than aluminum even if they are almost 2x the cost.
On Mar 23, 2022, 3:02 PM -0400, Chris Albertson < albertson.chris@...>, wrote:
If you want "simple".? ?You can attach an iGauging" type DRO with magnets.? Glue the magnets to the DRO scale.? ? ? This is not a lot different from placing a magnetic base on a dial indicator.?
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 11:23 AM plumbfishy via <seversonplumbing= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Ryan,
I opted for the "poor mans DRO"on the X axis of my lathe. I made up a simple clamp that allow me to use a 2" dial indicator against the carriage to measure travel. Cheap and easy to install/remove as needed. No batteries to wear out and no electrical interference. Granted, it's only 2" of travel, but it's easily adjusted and seems to be adequate for most jobs I do.
Attachments:
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
|
Re: X axis DRO, my next project
On Wed, Mar 23, 2022 at 01:50 AM, Ryan H wrote:
For my next lathe project I'm thinking about adding an X axis DRO.? It's really the one axis there's no built in measurement for and I think I'd really like it for boring to a specific depth and tasks like that.? I'm currently looking at the Shars stainless 24" units as I have a x14.
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If anyone has tried these, how do they deal with all the electrical "noise" from the lathe?? I have three 6" Mitutoyo digital calipers and two sets absolutely freak out within three or four feet of the lathe if it is running.? The other set is okay and my 4" Vinca are good.? I'm concerned the Shars DRO won't deal with the noise either so any experience with the Shars or any brand, good or bad would be appreciated.? Thanks!
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I put an Igaging acuremote on the Z axis of my 7x12.? Based on my past experience with electrical-noise problems I went with the stainless steel scale, but to completely eliminate the noise problem I still had to open up the sensor box (the one that slides on the scale) and solder a 1 microfarad capacitor between Vcc and Gnd.? I think that's because the batteries are installed in the display box so electrical noise gets into the power supply & ground lines on the connector cable. It is _very_ nice when it comes to doing things like boring pockets to a specific depth, or (if you have a toolpost-mounted drill chuck) you also can drill holes to a specific depth.? I originally added the DRO for an odd kind of ball-turner I bought from LMS.? The ball turner installs in place of the compound, which made it difficult to advance the ball turner into the work with any kind of accuracy.? As part of making it work in a reasonable fashion, I also attached a handwheel to the leadscrew.? I engage the half nuts and use the handwheel to advance the ball turner into the work.? In addition, the combination of DRO and handwheel on the lead screw is very useful because I usually have my plinth installed instead of the compound -- the plinth is much more rigid, and the DRO provides the measurements I need on the Z axis. If I'm threading or cutting under power I remove the handwheel handle so it doesn't smack something (like a hand).? You can get fancy with a foldable handle or a castle nut type of drive if you want, but I just went with the KISS principle. Mark
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Re: Mini Lathe - Mini Mill
I went to check out the link and I'm already a member. I wasn't getting any messages though so I made a couple of adjustments and just got a message. Not much activity on that site, but I will ask some questions there. Thanks for the link Floyd
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Re: Mini Lathe - Mini Mill
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Johannes