?

Mark, since you have used machine tools in the past I would suggest a lathe larger than a mini.A 9x20 would be the smallest I would consider in your place.I have a 7x12 Cummings and a 10x22 Grizzly. I started on the mini-lathe and learned a lot. After a couple of years I decided that a larger lathe was needed.I use the 10x22 about 95% of the time.The mini-lathe is used infrequently but comes in handy for some work.When I bought my first lathe I had no experience working metal,I think for me starting with the mini-lathe was a good idea.

Being that you have some experience,even though it was in the "distant past" you could save yourself some money and buy a larger lathe to begin with.Naturally the size work you do will determine what lathe you need.

I've made a few shop tools myself,most before I had a metal lathe.I have made a Panel saw,Wood lathe ( had to buy the spindles though), a beam saw, sash saw and a treadle lathe. I still have the wood lathe and the panel saw.I sold the treadle saw when I got too old to keep the treadle going. The beam saw never worked to my satisfaction so I took ?it apart after ?a few years.The sash saw ran off a 15 hp gas engine.I used this saw to mill logs less than 16" in diameter and under 10'-0" long.A neighbor complained about the noise. Police officer came around one morning and told me to turn the engine off.

I did turn it off.The officer asked me a lot of questions about the saw and then asked me if I would sell it to him.

I wound up selling him the saw ,after I finished sawing my logs.

mike

---

From: "mark@..."
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list

?

Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA

__._,

---

From: "mark@..." <mark@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 10:10 PM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] New to the list

?

Hello,

I have a major interest in home shop machining, partly in support of automotive hobbies but also just for fabrication purposes (small equipment, tools, models, etc). For some weird reason I can't explain, I am also interested in making my shop tools (yeah, even lathes, milling machines, etc) but have to be tempered by reality so I can otherwise get things done. I have yet to buy or build a lathe but have extreme interest in picking one up near term. I've been looking small (Unimat, Sherline, Taig) to large (9 or 10 inch swing...yes they get pricey) and would be interested in any advice on the best choice for a first lathe. I've been buying books from Lindsay Publications for more than 20 years...and yes I know they are going out of business in Feb 2013. I have their "last catalog". I also have some vintage Southbend publications. In the distant past, I've done quite a bit of fab work--lathe, milling machine, shaper, welding, all the other typical tool suspects and so am not a complete novice, but have been a way from it for quite a while as well.

Mark
Knoxville, TN USA

To: 7x12minilathe@...
From: stan2778@...
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2012 03:53:50 -0800
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Gas Pipes (was"Re: Aside from pipes and
camera cable releases where



A lot of gas mains are plastic now. Usually orange, comes on a roll.
They melt it together to couple it. Never looked like a good idea to
me. When they bore under roads and such it is cheaper easier and
faster.


STAN CAMPBELL

?

If threaded steel pipe is used for gas, does that make houses safer? I live
in NYC, and a magazine story about the recent hurricane here said that house
fires spread in some neighborhoods because the heat of fires "melted" gas
pipes in the houses. Popular magazines aren't reliable on technical issues,
so I don't know if this was actually true, but if a house fire can get a gas
pipe hot enough to fail from heat, pipes should be made of steel or other
metal with a high melting point.

Mike Taglieri miket_nyc@...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Muller" <alan@...>
To: < 7x12minilathe@...>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 11:41 AM
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
where else are tapered pipe threads used?

> Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
> inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
> inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
> how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
> course, modern practice would use a grooved
> system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
> five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
> keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)
>
> At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
> galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
> least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
> threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
> stainless is taking over that
> market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.
>
> So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.
>
> I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
> gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
> are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
> markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
> you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
> chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
> cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
> in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.
>
> Threading is a really lousy way to put up
> something like a flagpole, or to contain high
> pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
> the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
> start.
>
> At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
>>diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.
>>
>>Mert
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
>>< mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
>>[ mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
>>Of < mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net >fd042@...
>>Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
>>To: < mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...
>>Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
>>releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>>
>>Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
>>pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
>>cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
>>common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
>>pipe
>>dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
>>threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
>>plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
>>use
>>dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
>>am
>>not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
>>traditional
>>for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
>>not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
>>with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
>>machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
>>will
>>do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
>>pipe
>>threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
>>that
>>these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
>>only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
>>accuracy.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Roy
>> >Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
>> >To:
>> >< mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...
>> >Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases
>>where else are tapered pipe threads used?
>> >
>> >With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.
>> >
>> >Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
>> >are
>>threaded NPS as are lamp parts.
>> >
>> >Roy
>> >
>> >--- In
>> < mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com > 7x12minilathe@...,
>> ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.
>> >>
>> >> In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric
>>Research ships as an oceanographic
>> >> technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
>> >> of
>>cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).
>> >>
>> >> The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a
>>stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of
>> >> one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working
>>room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable
>> >> similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance
>>with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of
>> >> meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to
>>connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.
>> >> I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first
>>then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for
>> >> my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a
>>National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply
>> >> system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The
>>NEF tap did work.
>> >> My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put
>>on tight.
>> >>
>> >> Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
>> >> pipe
>>threads are used but not on pipes.
>> >>
>> >> Larry Murray
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >------------------------------------
>> >
>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>

Thanks Roy,

I was thinking of putting off my purchase for now, maybe I should
re-think it. They have a few books of interest, I hope that someone
will continue to offer them at a reasonable price.

Sometimes resisting the impulse buying urge means a missed
opportunity. Its hard to know what to do.

While on the subject of impulse buying, BusyBee Tools, which has a
store in Edmonton (cheaper shipping to Yellowknife from there) > > >

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Robert Schulke <robert.schulke53@> wrote:

I'm looking for plans to make a small, useful steam engine on the
mini-lathe. So far all the plans I've seen are either really small
(1/2 inch bore), or require a larger lathe. One that could be put
together from aluminum plate, pipe, bar, etc. would be great.
Castings would be OK so long as they could be finished on the
mini-lathe/mill. It should be able to produce at least 1 HP, and
ideally 5 for powering a small launch.

Thanks in advance!

Have a look here

Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:

The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----

From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases

where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are

threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:

Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric

Research ships as an oceanographic

technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of

cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a

stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of

one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working

room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable

similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance

with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of

meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to

connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.

I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first

then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for

my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a

National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply

system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The

NEF tap did work.

My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put

on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe

threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Standards for threaded pipe exist up to 24
inches. The largest I've seen is around 12
inches but 6-8 isn't uncommon. I have no idea
how they applied the torque to make these up. Of
course, modern practice would use a grooved
system like "Victaulic," or welding. (I have a
five or six foot pipe tong (chain wrench) that I
keep around for some reason. I can barely pick it up.)

At one time houses were plumbed with threaded
galvanized pipe, but those days are long gone, at
least in the US. Gas pipe is still commonly
threaded "black" steel but it seems corrugated
stainless is taking over that
market. Electricians do some threading of heavy wall conduit.

So it seems that pipe threading is becoming somewhat obsolescent.

I cut and thread pipe a few times a year--usually
gas pipe or when piping up a boiler. The tools
are expensive new but easy enough to find at flea
markets, etc. To do it in the traditional way
you need a pipe vise of some sort--I like the
chain type as being less in the way--a pipe
cutter--a hacksaw works--a reamer--filing works
in a pinch--and dies/stocks, which come in different sorts.

Threading is a really lousy way to put up
something like a flagpole, or to contain high
pressures under vibration, as the threads thin
the pipe wall and create places for circumferential fatigue cracks to
start.

At 05:42 AM 11/12/2012 -0500, you wrote:

The famous Model T Ford had 1/2" pipe threaded sparkplugs. The plumber's
diestock I have has 2' long handles on it, and is not at al hard to turn.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf
Of <mailto:fd042%40earthlink.net>fd042@...
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 10:23 PM
To: <mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable
releases where else are tapered pipe threads used?

Old flywheel style single cylinder gasoline farm engines mostly used 1/2"
pipe threaded spark plugs. (Made after the low tention spark-points in the
cylinder chamber, & before the high speed air cooled engines that became
common after WWII) Tapered threads do not give a seal unless used with
pipe
dope or Teflon tape. (& other sealing methods I don't know about); Regular
threading (no taper) up to a flange & gasket is the modern norm for spark
plugs; the threads locate it, the flange & a gasket seals it. (& you can
use
dope/whatever on the threads to be really sure of a seal if you want.) I
am
not clear as to your need/use of tapered pipe threading...It is
traditional
for iron plumbing, cheap; & for installations that are semi-permenant, IE
not have to be taken apart for a long time. Pipe thread taps & dies work
with a straight pipe, both outside & inside size; IE no previous taper
machining is needed. These taps & dies have their own built in taper, &
will
do the work themselves, albeit W/ a lot of effort, either by hand, or a
pipe
threading motor; but not a small lathe. Seems to me (here in Maine USA)
that
these threading procedures are better done by hand, with a die/ or tap, &
only useing a lathe manually to mount/locate thease tools to get better
accuracy.

-----Original Message-----

From: Roy
Sent: Nov 11, 2012 8:38 PM
To:
<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Aside from pipes and camera cable releases

where else are tapered pipe threads used?

With an OD of 5/16" it's 1/16" NPT. Both 1/16" & 1/8" NPT are 27 tpi.

Straight pipe threads are used for electrical stuff; conduit fittings
are

threaded NPS as are lamp parts.

Roy

--- In

<mailto:7x12minilathe%40yahoogroups.com>7x12minilathe@...,
ToolRoomTrustee@... wrote:

Classical meter wheel and four dial counter blocks from KAHLSICO.

In my 28 year working life on National Oceanographic and Atmospheric

Research ships as an oceanographic

technician I often had to deal with the devices that measured amount
of

cable going out (and hopefully coming back!).

The technology of the times late 60s to mid 90s (in my career) used a

stainless steel grooved wheel with a nominal circumference of

one meter that was suspended from a gantry or A-frame to allow working

room for instrument packages. The wheel used a cable

similar to a speedometer cable to connect to a mechanical contrivance

with four dials to cover units, tens, 100s and thousands of

meters. The meter wheel and four dial block used male threads to

connect to female threads on end fittings of the connecting cable.

I was essentialy self taught on the job with my own Unimat at first

then later got some end of fiscal year money to buy a Unimat for

my department. I determined that the threads were 5/16-24 which is a

National Extra Fine so got a die and taps through govt supply

system. Much later found that it was actually a ?x27 pipe thread. The

NEF tap did work.

My conjecture is that the NPT was used so the connections could be put

on tight.

Anyway, my query here is if anyone else has some examples of where
pipe

threads are used but not on pipes.

Larry Murray

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links