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Here's a link to another nifty tap alignment jig: http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=23519 Taps break for several common reasons: 1. Misalignment with the hole - the jigs solve this so

G'day Viki, John. You have found the difference between cheap taps and better quality taps. I have about three sets of "cheap taps". The other day i was attempting to cut a 8mm thread in an SS bush.

Using small taps freehand is guaranteed to break them. I now use a device called a "tapdisk" and never break taps....hardly ever (don't want to jinx myself). I found the instructions for making the

Hi Ian, I'd be talking more to Uncle Rabid before looking to buy a new board. He's the local oracle and repairs them for a living. He's strangely generous with his advice around here given that he

G'day Gerry. Thanks for the reply. I like the Nyloc nut idea, I must pick some nuts up from the auto parts shop. To make the dial locking more flexible I turned some small aluminium pellets, 5mm dia.

Take a look at Vicki Ford's site through the link on www.mini-lathe.com. She made two very nice QCTP's from Aluminium, both clamp and piston trpe using steel insert for the threads gerry Leeds UK

Hi Ian I too have a Real Bull Machine marketed and sold here in the Uk by Warco as their "Mini-lathe" I have had it for three years and it has proven to be very reliable. One other difference from the

Hi John, thanks for the warning. I was unable to get a reading off the second resistor so have ordered two. Visually I cannot find any damage to the board or components apart from what looks like

Hi Bill, No Problem. By the way - the free shipping is great especially when ordering heavy things.... Take care, DBN Bill Kenny <billcnc@...> wrote: Hmm, never mind, I just re-read the above

Hi Vikki, Ah, the dreaded broken tap. Every break is different and you do what you need to do in your situation. It's always a good brain teaser. In aluminium and brass I'm told alum is magical. I

Just to share the fun. Got my laser edge / center finder holder all turned and bored out and started drilling and tapping (4-40) for the set screw / power switch holes. Went along nicely up until the

Personal feeling is that they're nifty enough to be worth the price:- ) Locally, most auto parts stores have single size Helicoil kits in the 1/4" to 1/2" range (& corresponding metric sizes) for a

G'day Kevin. The great feature of the minilathe is the variable speed knob. For lathes with stepped pulleys or gears setting the speed before you start iss important. For us we can just wind the knob

wrote: Hi Ian, I think you nailed it there. Commercial market forces. There's still lots of call in Oz for UNF and UNC so they are stocked. But I don't use them in new designs. I figure the older

Ian, I guess I'm just mad at Sears! I went there today, and was frustrated trying to find UNF threaded fasteners in what has now become an appliance store. They used to have 4 aisles of fasteners; now

Congrats on the new machine. Paul posted a cheat sheet that's very useful. Here's a link to his post that links to the file. I had trouble accessing it using Firefox, but IE works.

G'day Ron You said: "Which brings up another point: when did hardware store like Sears stop selling fine thread fasteners? It seems like everything is now the coarse thread (NC as opposed to NF). At

there is diff speed mills and lathes. will do. Also, just put your piece you're machining in and just start cutting, wherever you're at when it starts doing a good job, there you go... > > >

Check out the Cutting Speeds link at <http://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/reference.php>. Mike

Ian, that rocker sectiopn looks suspiciously like a Woodruff Key, used for placing in shafts and driving gears, coms and sheaves. Most hardware stores should carry them. Just a thought. Ron. Keep