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Here's another way to make a mini lathe a little more stable: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/1328 I think these come with Grizzly mini lathes but not with others. Regards, Chris Wood

I recently enjoyed the thread showing one owner's approach to indexing the spindle of a mini lathe. His method was probably a lot more accurate than my approach since mine doesn't allow for adjustment

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the just Problem Solved !!! The problem wasn't the screw at all, it was the "Harbor Freight" "T-Handle" allen wrench itself. I was about to go the hardware store insearch of new screws when I tried a

There isn't much to add to the instructions at mini-lathe.com. Begin by determining if the the gibs are straight enough to be lapped and first unbend them as necessary. It is pretty easy to get an

On the HF, the lathe guard mount itself is 3" from the chuck center. In order to turn something larger then 6", you would need to permanently remove it.

On my lathe the safety switch connected to the chuck guard closes contacts at about halfway. When I need to turn large pieces (18cm max, about 7") it's just a matter of tying it half open, using a

I too struggled with my Cummins 7X12 rocking back and forth, but I wasn't quite ready to bolt it to my bench. Instead, I bought an Oak stair tread from Home Depot and bolted the lathe to that. I

Dennis, welcome to the group. If you have not already done so take a bit of time and browse through www.mini-lathe.com (without doubt the best internet resource for the mini's there is) and

Hi John, I can't say I've seen their bodge other than in photos so don't know whether there was another better way of doing it. I'm guessing that what they did was the cheapest way of doing it, not

Ian is quite right in what he says - sometimes we all need reminding just what a bargain it is and without it many many people would never get as far as owning a lathe. the same goes for a lot of

Rance, to save you having to wait until Ian is up again and had his breakfast, I think he refers to a little plate riveted to the t/stock end of the bed, showing a cross-section of the bed top with

Hi Rance, I think Ian's off to bed. It's late in Oz. He mentioned this diagram the other day. It shows the areas of the bed that are hardened. You're probably right - good guide when comparing

Patrick, Welcome aboard. Although I've not been yet, you might want to check out Chesapeake Area Metalworking Club (CAMS) www.cams-club.org Washington, DC and Baltimore, Maryland. Another member in VA

G'day John. I guess half round files cost as much as or more than round files due to the difficulty of makinhg that staggered cut when making two half round files out of a round file. It would be a

Vikki, Here's some links that should keep you busy. www.leeswoodprojects.com/plans.html www.stinggroup.addr.com/projects/turn/tips/tips.html http://woodnwhimsies.com/dwood_%20info.htm

Sorry Gerry, I can't let 'em off that easy. They could have added a chuck guard that retained the rated capacity of their product. I agree a chuck guard is mainly nuisance value BUT SIEG STUFFED UP.

G'day Kevin & Patrick. WELCOME!! The 7x12 is a good little machine for the money inspite of what some persons imply about "Chinese" goods. Frequently the lathe does need some improvement to get

wrote: Hey Ian, You sound like you'd know. Any idea why half round files cost as much or more than full round files? John

Thanks guys. You confirm what I've found. I just couldn't believe the difference. I too was taught to use kero on ali and soluble oil for machining steel. That was high school in Oz in the late