开云体育

Hi Ed,

Point well taken.

I routinely use the hand-contact and counting rule and surprisingly it is rather accurate. However, without doubt, the motor is running on the hot side - of course, I am spolied by U.S. built motors, transformers, etc... When I worked for a German-based company some years ago, we replaced transformers and power diodes as often as one replaced fuses. Several reported that the ratings placed on the motors from China are at best suspicious or as some stated, pararphrased, China must have small horses. Nonetheless, if time permits, I'll run an unloaded test this weekend.

Thanks,
DBN

Ed Boysun <boysungran@...> wrote:


That really doesn't seem all that far out of line, to me. When being run
continously, most motors will be nearly hot to the touch. Generally, if
you can place your hand on them and count to 2, without being burned,
nothing will be hurt in the motor. I guess I should really check some of
my larger ones with an IR temp gun after they have run for a couple
hours, but I'd be surprised if they didn't run at least that warm.

Just looked at the plate on one of my water pump motors. That one is
thermally protected for 40C above ambient.

Ed B
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "druid_noibn" <druid_noibn@...>
wrote:

Hi All,

For those who might find it "interesting" – I noticed the motor of
the HF 8x12-14 was a tad warm and thought a check was in order.

With a motor and ambient temp of 65F the lathe was turned on – no
metal turning. The probe was located on the upper part of the motor
housing, between the motor body and the junction box.

Without noting all of the readings, in the course of:
13 minutes – temp rise 39.3F;
30 minutes – 49.7F;
46 minutes – 58.1F;
63 minutes – 63F – shut-down motor
66 minutes – 65.7F

I didn't run the motor unloaded yet.

So the motor runs hot - an auxiliary fan might be in order.

Take care,
DBN

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Same price, more or less, Graham - $7.50 from British Tools in the US, or ?3.92 from Chronos over here.
A

gbarker2003 <graham.barker@...> wrote:
Hate to say this, but you can buy these in the UK for ?3.92 from
Chronos and probably from several other suppliers.

Graham

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikecaswell70" <mike@...> wrote:

Hi!

I thought you folks might like to know about a new product my son's

company is marketing. I

haven't seen these gauges offered for sale anywhere else. They are

great for checking the

angle on your thread cutting tools


see



Hope some of you find this useful.

---------------------------------
New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hate to say this, but you can buy these in the UK for ?3.92 from
Chronos and probably from several other suppliers.

Graham

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikecaswell70" <mike@...> wrote:

Hi!

I thought you folks might like to know about a new product my son's

company is marketing. I

haven't seen these gauges offered for sale anywhere else. They are

great for checking the

angle on your thread cutting tools


see



Hope some of you find this useful.

Hello.
Wondered if there were any books or Web pages with suggestions/plans
for things to make on the metal working lathe. I know you can make
model engines and tools etc, but was thinking more in terms of
household items or items you could give as presents.
Paul

Hi Gerry,

Thanks for confirming that bit about being assertive. Interestingly,
while LMS doesn't list the smaller tool as suitable for the 7x, they
do list the 9x as compatible. As a friend of mine would say in a
dead pan serious voice, there are some strange cattle on them there
hills.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:

Hi John,

I forgot to mention the one about the diameter, and you are right

that you

need to crank the knob up tight to get the tool to bite and then

follow the

knurl.

THe smaller one does fit the 7x, I've had one for a couple of

years and it

works fine. I have no doubt that the slightly bigger offering from

LMS will

be good too and as you say when you take the other knurls into

account it is

still good value. You pays your money.......

regards

gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 23:52:44 -0000

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you
shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into the
previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You should
also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the

pattern

synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best way

to

prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told

about

these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and I
recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor knurler
is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't list
the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris at
LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design -

and I

figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the time
you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only

way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that

most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various

knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so

but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and

apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you

go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to

the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my

lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have

spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that

they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls

and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just

a

beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just

the 'average'

knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical

restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

_________________________________________________________________

Upload 500 photos a month & blog with your Messenger buddies on

Windows Live

Spaces. Get yours now, FREE!

_________________________________________________________________
Match.com - Click Here To Find Singles In Your Area Today!

Hi John,

I forgot to mention the one about the diameter, and you are right that you need to crank the knob up tight to get the tool to bite and then follow the knurl.

THe smaller one does fit the 7x, I've had one for a couple of years and it works fine. I have no doubt that the slightly bigger offering from LMS will be good too and as you say when you take the other knurls into account it is still good value. You pays your money.......

regards

gerry
Leeds UK

From: "born4something" <ajs@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 23:52:44 -0000

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you
shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into the
previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You should
also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the pattern
synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best way to
prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told about
these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and I
recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor knurler
is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't list
the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris at
LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design - and I
figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the time
you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

_________________________________________________________________
Upload 500 photos a month & blog with your Messenger buddies on

Windows Live

Spaces. Get yours now, FREE!

_________________________________________________________________
Match.com - Click Here To Find Singles In Your Area Today!

It's certainly true that if you could only have one chuck, it would be
the 4-jaw, but I like having both. Much of the time when I'm holding a
piece of round stock, I'm going to make something smaller than the full
diameter of the stock, so the errors of the 3-jaw chuck don't matter and
the ease of using it is nice. I use a 4-jaw when I have to hold
something really accurately (or really big).

Also, I two 4-jaw chucks a modern Chines 4" 4-jaw, plus a 3" 4-jaw that
came off an old Sears Craftsman (Dunlap AA) 6" lathe. I find myself
using the little one much more often.

Mike Taglieri miket--nyc@...

Everyone has his reasons.
- Jean Renoir "The Rules of the Game"

On Thu, 8 Mar 2007 19:00:38 -0800 (PST) rod rowzee
<rodthemechanic@...> writes:

Hi Veni,

The common mini-lathe has manual change gears on the end of the
headstock. You either look up a table of thread pitches to determine
which gears are needed or do your own working out on the back of an
envelope. I do both. Only the most common pitches are in the table.
There are also software utilities around that will give you all the
permutations.

The lathes come with a selection of these change gears. If you're buying
a mini-lathe specifically for thread cutting be sure to buy an imperial
lathe for imperial threads or a metric one for metric threads. Not that
that totally limits you to one. Unless threading over a long length you
can usually get away with a thread within a couple of percent. Or if
you're really after an accurate thread, conversion kits aren't overly
expensive. I think LMS (www.littlemachineshop.com
<> ) want about $40 for a leadscrew &
threading dial kit and another $30 for a complete set of change gears.
They also sell the change gears individually if there's a special combo
you need.

John




--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "veniaver2006@..."
<veniaver2006@...> wrote:

Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe carries a
NORTON gearbox.

It's for doing threads, so if an alternative method
let this minilathe get that, it would be OK.

I've been told that if done that this kinda minilathe
get the job done thru a set of gears and still getting
same results.

Intend to get a 3/4 " BCP thread within a PVC dado.

That PVC female thread should match a 3/4" std piece
of plastic pipe (cold water type) cutted to a lenght
of 1 1/4" .

Hope your hints.

Bests,

Veni

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe carries a
NORTON gearbox.

It's for doing threads, so if an alternative method
let this minilathe get that, it would be OK.

I've been told that if done that this kinda minilathe
get the job done thru a set of gears and still getting
same results.

Intend to get a 3/4 " BCP thread within a PVC dado.

That PVC female thread should match a 3/4" std piece
of plastic pipe (cold water type) cutted to a lenght
of 1 1/4" .

Hope your hints.

Bests,

Veni

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

Hi Rod,

Yeah, setting up the 4-jaw gets faster with practice although I find
the 3-jaw convenience more than adequate for most chores. The 4-jaw
does give you a bigger pass through hole. I take it you never use
hex bar though.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., rod rowzee
<rodthemechanic@...> wrote:

i use a 4 jaw chuck . i would never go back to a 3 chuck . 4 jaw

you can fit anything in it and you can set it true for turning. i
went with a 2346 chuck 5 in with adapter . from
littlemachineshop.com. after you get use to the 4 chuck it very fast
to set what your turning.

born4something <ajs@...> wrote: Hi Rance,

I'm running a 7x12 so can't give specific models. However, I could

not

conceive of having a lathe without both 3-jaw (scroll) and a 4-jaw
(independent) chucks. My machine came standard with the former and

I

automatically bought the latter at the same time.

The 3-jaw gets 90% of the work. Mostly because it's quick and

easy. It

holds round and hex bar and has no setup time. However, a 4-jaw

can be

set up more accurately and square bar won't even sit in a 3-jaw.

To

set things up in a 4-jaw you really need a dial gauge and magnetic
base too.

Between those 2 chucks you can handle most jobs and get accuracy

when

needed. The other item to consider is a face plate. They are

useful

for clamping odd shaped work to - stuff that doesn't lend itself

to a

chuck. I bought one as an extra with my lathe and the vendor had a
combined package that included a couple of steadies.

I know what you mean about dollars. When I bought my lathe someone
told me to expect to spend about as much again on tools and
accessories. I didn't want to hear that advice at the time so I
ignored it. But they weren't far off. :-(

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF

purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self

centering

or

independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

independent

jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe &

pocket

book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any

recommendations

for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i use a 4 jaw chuck . i would never go back to a 3 chuck . 4 jaw you can fit anything in it and you can set it true for turning. i went with a 2346 chuck 5 in with adapter . from littlemachineshop.com. after you get use to the 4 chuck it very fast to set what your turning.

born4something <ajs@...> wrote: Hi Rance,

I'm running a 7x12 so can't give specific models. However, I could not
conceive of having a lathe without both 3-jaw (scroll) and a 4-jaw
(independent) chucks. My machine came standard with the former and I
automatically bought the latter at the same time.

The 3-jaw gets 90% of the work. Mostly because it's quick and easy. It
holds round and hex bar and has no setup time. However, a 4-jaw can be
set up more accurately and square bar won't even sit in a 3-jaw. To
set things up in a 4-jaw you really need a dial gauge and magnetic
base too.

Between those 2 chucks you can handle most jobs and get accuracy when
needed. The other item to consider is a face plate. They are useful
for clamping odd shaped work to - stuff that doesn't lend itself to a
chuck. I bought one as an extra with my lathe and the vendor had a
combined package that included a couple of steadies.

I know what you mean about dollars. When I bought my lathe someone
told me to expect to spend about as much again on tools and
accessories. I didn't want to hear that advice at the time so I
ignored it. But they weren't far off. :-(

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering

or

independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

independent

jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe & pocket
book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any recommendations
for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

HSS inserts are pricey because they're uncommon. For carbide, the
basic holder determines the insert shape, usually only one general
family fits. The other approach is to use the brazed carbide tooling;
it's frequently cheaper initially, has limited resharpening
capabilities. It's also real easy to get some truly junky brazed
carbide tooling.

If you go with the one of the HF insertable sets, you'll get 5
different holders for various uses. You can get inserts from HF with
no grade identification or get the same size/shape inserts from a
vendor who'll identify grade & the refinements of shape as indicated by
the std carbide identification system.

The other approach is just to use HSS tools that you grind to shape.
Basic tool blanks are relatively cheap, can be ground many times & will
usually produce a better surface finish than carbide on small machines.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why?

And

which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking that
the inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones out
seems to be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper, and a
little bit of steel.

Rance

Usually, you sort of match the knurl to the work diameter; little
things with coarse knurling look odd. On the 7xX, the machine isn't
rigid enough to be happy with a fixed knurling tool; the scissor type
is the way to go. Along the same lines, the QC knurling holder that
comes with the HF QC toolpost set is pretty much useless. When you
put any pressure on it, it happily loosens the clamping nut,
relieving knurling pressure:-(

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the whole

tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs. fixed)
would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction on

what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for me.

Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

Hi,

Just a suggestion.

For making plastic handles on shafts I turn a few grooves (for axial
keying), grind a couple of flats (for rotational keying) and then
cast the handle with fibre glassing resin from the hardware store.

Use oversized PVC conduit as the former so centre isn't critical.
Glue a piece to some scrap with silicone, etc. Then spray the inside
lightly with WD40 as a release agent. Support the shaft by clamping
from above and pour the resin in. Next day, stick the shaft in the
chuck and turn off the PVC. If the WD40 has worked well you won't
need to machine much before it slips off anyway. Discard that and
continue turning the resin to shape. Fine cuts go smoothly and
produce mountains of fine stringy swarf. Don't let them build up or
the job will eventually grab the whole pile and wrap it up! Finish
with emery or wet & dry if you want a nice polish.

Place where I once worked used to cast blocks of that stuff for
making items from. They always saved the offcuts in a bin for
smaller jobs. Turns beautifully.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <John@...> wrote:

I doubt there is a "best" plastic for turning. Most of the less

heat

sensitive plastics turn nicely if you use very sharp bits with low
rake and modest rpm -- plastic will self-feed like brass so zero or
negative rake helps if you take deep cuts. Regular bits work OK

for

shallow cuts.

I've had good luck with: Delrin, nylon, HDPE, and polysulfone.

These

are not too sensitive to heat but they do make long, stringy swarf.
Tufnol is less temperature sensitive and turns to dust rather than
strings - excellent for pulleys and gears.

Lucite is very temperature sensitive so it is much more difficult

but

with care it can be used for lenses.

PVC turns OK, is a bit temperature sensitive and often has

impurities

that produce surprising tool wear.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "wireless_paul" <paul@>

wrote:

Wondered what the best plastic was for turning?
Paul

Hi Chris,

I assume we're talking a Sieg 7x here? I just measured my Sieg
steadies (I have fixed and moving) at 1-1/2".

I think you'll need to fabricate your own. You'll need a pretty
stout structure. Shouldn't be too difficult to do a specific purpose
one. Of course, if you want it to be generally useful then you'll
need better adjustment provisions and it gets to be more work. How
about boring a 2-1/4" hole in some 1/4" plate and tapping three
holes for set screws at 120 degree angles around it. Simplest mount
may be to the carriage using the couple of tapped holes on the h/s
side intended for the Sieg travelling steady.

John



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Chris Eilbeck" <chris@...>
wrote:

What's the maximum diameter of material I could fit in a fixed

steady?

I need to true the ends of a piece of 2.125" tube but it's way to
long to just run in the chuck without any additional support. I'll
have to mail order a steady but I can't get any scale from the on-

line

pictures of the device. Are there any other ways of doing this if

I

can't just use a fixed steady?

Cheers

Chris

Hi Rance,

I'm running a 7x12 so can't give specific models. However, I could not
conceive of having a lathe without both 3-jaw (scroll) and a 4-jaw
(independent) chucks. My machine came standard with the former and I
automatically bought the latter at the same time.

The 3-jaw gets 90% of the work. Mostly because it's quick and easy. It
holds round and hex bar and has no setup time. However, a 4-jaw can be
set up more accurately and square bar won't even sit in a 3-jaw. To
set things up in a 4-jaw you really need a dial gauge and magnetic
base too.

Between those 2 chucks you can handle most jobs and get accuracy when
needed. The other item to consider is a face plate. They are useful
for clamping odd shaped work to - stuff that doesn't lend itself to a
chuck. I bought one as an extra with my lathe and the vendor had a
combined package that included a couple of steadies.

I know what you mean about dollars. When I bought my lathe someone
told me to expect to spend about as much again on tools and
accessories. I didn't want to hear that advice at the time so I
ignored it. But they weren't far off. :-(

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF purchase.

There are so many chucks to choose from. 3", 4", 5", self centering

or

independetent jaws. In my limited knowledge, I expect that

independent

jaws is what I want. Should I get the biggest that my lathe & pocket
book can handle? Price IS a consideration to me. Any recommendations
for a 5" (specific part #'s please)? Thanks. :)

Rance

Hi Veni,

Did you include a pic or attachment with your post or am I missing
something? Pics and attachments aren't supported by this forum's
messages.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "veniaver2006@..."
<veniaver2006@...> wrote:

Hi,

I'm newebie and wonder if this minilathe carries any
kinda of NORTON gearbox.

Neverthless any equivalent alternative would be OK
mostly if done with a reasonably priced substitute.

Intend turning a 3/4 " hole within a PVC cylinder.

That PVC female receptable should to fit a 3/4" piece
of std plastic cold water pipe cutted to a lenght of 1
1/4" .

Bests,

Veni


--- 7x12minilathe@... wrote:
__________________________

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

Hi Rance,

I bought both HSS and a set of carbide tools. I work mainly with
steel (and stainless). Later I read that carbide is a bit of a pain
on these small lathes as it's prone to digging in, stalling and
chipping whereas HSS is more tolerant. Well, that was my experience
too. That said, my tool post was less than rigid and I've since
lapped gibs, etc. with a vast improvement in that department. But
HSS is infinitely more flexible.

Not so sure about the relative costs. I suspect it depends on where
you shop. Cheapest I've seen for HSS in the US was Enco (www.use-
enco.com) but their freight options to Australia were crippling. In
Australia I pick them up on eBay from Ozmestore1 (check item
250091086115). Also, when comparing cost you may like to weigh up
the 3 or 4 lives you get by rotating a carbide tip versus the number
of times a HSS tool can be sharpened. Don't be put off HSS by the
need to master sharpening. It's not that difficult to master and
you'll eventually find you need those skills anyway. Best use I
found for carbide was as a performance benchmark to compare my HSS
creations against!

John





--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "rancerupp" <rupps@...> wrote:

I'm looking for accessories in anticipation of my 8x12 HF

purchase.

I thought Carbide would be better but HSS seems to cost more. Why?

And

which one should I opt for? To tell you the truth, I'm thinking

that

the inserts would be the best route. But picking the right ones

out

seems to be a nightmare.

I expect I'll be turning mostly alum. but also brass, copper, and

a

little bit of steel.

Rance

Hi Rance, Gerry,

The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you
shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial
imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to slide into the
previous imprints. To aid that you need plenty of lube. You should
also make the OD a multiple of the knurler pitch to help the pattern
synch up. Being timid and starting really lightly is the best way to
prevent that synch-up process.

Note that's all head knowledge from my reading. I wasn't told about
these tips when I did metalwork at high school 35 years ago and I
recall I had problems with double imprints. My new scissor knurler
is somewhere over the Pacific Ocean in transit to Australia as I
type. I bought the larger LMS offering. The LMS site doesn't list
the smaller one as suiting a 7X. I'm confident it would. Chris at
LMS recommended the larger one - admitting it was his design - and I
figured it was about the same price as the smaller one by the time
you factor in the cost of the 3 sets of wheels it comes with.

Hope that's helpful,
John






--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "gerry waclawiak"
<gerrywac@...> wrote:

Rance,

without doubt i would say that the scissor type is the only way to

go with

the mini-lathe because the machine is so light and flexible

(compared with

larger and industrial types). The scissor action means that most

of the

forces stay in the tool and are not transferred to the spindle,

bearings

,slides etc.

Although it would be a relatively easy project I would suggest

that you have

done and buy a small scissor knurler as I did.

The one I bought here in the UK looks amazingly like (identical

even) the

smaller of the ones that www.littlemachineshop.com do.

I have had mine for about 3 years and it has been fine for

everything I have

needed which has ranged from 3/16" lockscrew though various knobs

up to 1

1/2" knobs and hammer and screwdriver shafts mainly on ally and

brass. Finer

knurl wheels might be preferable if you are down at 1/8" or so but

all my

results have been good, certainly I don't think you would be

disappointed

with it.

There is nothing particularly hard about knurling just align

throught the

centre of your work, tighten the knob, select slow speed and apply

plenty of

cutting oil and just tighten up and keep applying oil as you go

until you

get the knurl depth you need. If you are knurling a shaft just

slowly

traverse the carriage from end to end as you go tightening form

time to time

at either of the ends.

If you want an article might I suggest that you subscribe to the

premium

content of frank hoose's www.mini-lathe.com site which covers

basic lathe

operation and some neat starter project in plenty of words and

pics and

idealfor a newbie to the minis. I subscribed when I got my lathe 3

years

since and thought it was probably one of the best $25 I have spent.

No connection with either of these sites, just pleased that they

are there

for us mini-lathe types.

Gerry
leeds UK

From: "rancerupp" <rupps@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Buying & Using a Knurler
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2007 12:43:20 -0000

Gerry, others,

So what should I look for in a knurler? Buy just the knurls and

make my

own mount or buy the whole tool? Seems to me that buying the

whole tool

would be best. Do I really need multiple tpi knurls? I'm just a
beginner so I can't imagine needing more than just the 'average'
knurled knob.

Any articles on how to use a knurler? Which type (sissor vs.

fixed)

would be best for a beginner? Thanks.

Rance


RE: [7x12minilathe] Re: Way Wear, Hard Gibs

I have the scissor type and apart from the physical restriction

on what

you can knurl due to the throat they have worked very well for

me. Mine

will take just under 2" and in reality this has not proved a

problem

for the type of stuff i do.

Gerry
leeds UK

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Trevor,

Now I'm very glad you posted that link. I went out to Busy Bee this
afternoon, and they had a chuck that looked just like the one you
pictured except it had a JT-6 taper for $17. I just finished
checking it; it's only out about 0.001" over 4". Far better than my
tailstock which is aligned for centre accuracy rather than "pointing"
accuracy. (My minilathe like most has a MT-2 taper bore to tailstock
bore of about .002" per inch)

Next time I order from LMS I'll pick up that one for the drill press.



The Groz one turned out to be a real Goliath. That is to say,
inappropriate for the minilathe.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Paul Moir" <paul.moir@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "trevor_rymell" <sacentre@>
wrote:

Check out the chucks on sale at LMS. I bought this $9.00 one and am
very happy with the quality.

Trevor

Trevor,

Thank you for your reply. ...
- Paul Moir