开云体育

Hi gang!
I've been playing,er, working with the lathe and learning a
lot....now fer some info.

1- What type of tool is best for what job?
considerations: cost, main material is plastic (PVC), some metal
involved to keep if interesting.
is there a general purpose tool for most use?
HSS or carbide....pre-made or grind my own?

2-Is there a way to hold square or odd pieces in a 3-jaw chuck?

3- Is there a good book to learn these things from...i.e. 'Metal
Lathes for dummies"

4- Suggestion for a good 1st time real project, thats easy!

Thanks , Matt

Neil,
Yep, been here almost 6 years. You?

That link you posted for the other manual is chapter 7 of the same
one that we're just getting the index for on the 7x10 group!
I see that we can all go right to the source (the Army) and get
the full manual online at:



B Flint

bflint@... scribbled:

Thanks for the links.
Is the full manual available on the 7x10 site? All I see with your
link below are the index and the table of contents.

Same thing I'm getting. See my prev email for another
good doc.

Anyway, I notice from your email that you're an Austinite
as well. Woo-hoo!

Cheers,
-Neil.

roylowenthal scribbled:

I think we're reaching the readability limit for interspersed
replies!

Really? ...you should join some of the other lists I'm on :-)

There's a machining manual here:

20Manual%20TC%209-524/
and another one here, for people who can read without moving their
lips (guess which branch I served in):

I get an index and TOC on the first link, and I've joined the latter
to get access, so hopefully will get that soon.

In the meanwhile, this is the doc I'm reading...


At the rate I read, I'll be back with you all in a few
months :-)

Cheers,
-Neil.

Frank Hoose scribbled:

I recently made a housing for a small halogen
reflector lamp that is very similar to your plan -
including the threaded bezel. You can hold the bezel
or the tubing from the inside by extending the chuck
jaws outwards until they firmly grip the inside
surface of the work.

Only prob here is that the inside of the bezel is
also an aesthetic part.

Cheers,
-Neil.

Thanks for the links.
Is the full manual available on the 7x10 site? All I see with your
link below are the index and the table of contents.

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal
<roylowenthal@y...>" <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

There's a machining manual here:

USAR%20Machinist%20Manual%20TC%209-524/

I think we're reaching the readability limit for interspersed
replies!
There's a machining manual here:

20Manual%20TC%209-524/
and another one here, for people who can read without moving their
lips (guess which branch I served in):



--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Neil" <cobra_neil@a...> wrote:

Hey Roy,

Thanks for the info. Comments interspersed below...

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with a lathe?
I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get in there
easily.

A boring bar (or boring tool) is designed to do this easily.

I'll assume this is one of the cutting tools available for a
lathe.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

Easier than trying to cut a short, large diameter thread any

other

way. It's less exciting if there's an unthreaded relief at the

blind

end and if you run the lathe in reverse, to have the tool moving

away

from the chuck while making a right hand thread.

After much thought, I've decided to get away from the threads
and make the parts snug-fit, with a small set screw to hold them
together.

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the outside
surface?

With difficulty. You'll need to make some sort of fixture that's
softer than the bezel, yet, able to hold it securely &

accurately.

It'd be easier to machine the outside & front after it's

threaded.

(Screw it onto a mandrel for final machining.)

Sound like you're saying that the threading process will
be the problem in this respect. Sounds plausible since
the bezel will need to be gripped tight. Since I'm leaning
away from threading now, I may be okay? If not, I guess I
can lightly machine the outside to clean it up.

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of the rings?
I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as much as
possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a lathe so
any marks are circular (so it looks more like a pattern)?

The good way is a parting tool and a lathe large enough to pass

the

tubing thru the spindle! The practical way on a 7xX is to rough

out

the blanks with a chop/band/hack saw and face them to size.
Alternately, with lots of waste, part some off a piece of tubing

held

in a chuck/on a mandrel. After a few are done, start with

another

piece of tubing - there's a limited range between too long to fit

the

lathe & too short to hold. You may need to use a steady rest,

which

tends to mark the outside of the tubing.

I'm a bit confused about what you mean here, since I'm not that
familiar with the lathe yet, until I get one. But I'll look it up
in the lathe docs I downloaded.

With a large lathe, the tubing can pass thru the spindle & be parted
(sliced) off a long piece of tubing. The spindle on the 7xX's only
has about a 13/16" bore, so you have to chuck short sections of
tubing, part a few bezel blanks off the section & start with another
section, leaving a waste piece that was held in the chuck. It's hard
to hold large tubing in a chuck without distorting it, some sort of
mandrel works better, but takes up more of the length of the tube to
hold it. Alternately, use a saw and face each bezel on both sides.

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and instead let
the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd use a
small set-screw going vertically from the bottom of the
bezel to hold the body on.

Boring & cross-drilling is easier than boring, threading internal

+

threading external.

Good. This (threading) option eliminated.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body? I don't
mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but not sure
how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way to
expensive for me now.

Supposedly, you can buy drawn cups. I've never done it, so I'm

just

passing along a shop rumor <g> ...

Have never been able to find this, but I recently realized that I
need the back cover off to assemble the unit (mounting a part on
the cover for use as a heat-sink).

... If the end can be thicker, you can
turn a shoulder on a purchased disc or blank some out of plate

with a

hole saw. If you've got a drill press, a hole saw without the

pilot

drill will produce solid discs (it also howls enough to panic the
cats & annoy SWMBO <G>)

Yep. This was my first thought, but I thought I'd ask otherwise
since I need to experiment with the available standard hole-saw
sizes to see if one fits my app.

It's possible to tweak a hole saw by modifying the tooth set, but
it's tedious. For Al pieces, I just use carpet tape to hold the
blank to a chucked piece of wood, helped by pressure from a live
center, and take light cuts. For a shouldered part, eyeball
centering before turning both diameters is quicker than accurately
centering an existing major diameter before turning the minor
diameter.

Cheers,
-Neil.

I recently made a housing for a small halogen
reflector lamp that is very similar to your plan -
including the threaded bezel. You can hold the bezel
or the tubing from the inside by extending the chuck
jaws outwards until they firmly grip the inside
surface of the work.

Frank Hoose



--- "roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...>"
<roylowenthal@...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Neil"
<cobra_neil@a...> wrote:

Hi all,

Here is a sketch of what I need to make (> 20

pieces).

The unit will be used for gauges for my, and a

friend's

car.

This will be my *excuse* for purchasing a lathe,

and other

appropriate tools. Wondering if someone can

assist my

letting me know if I'm on the right track.



The Plan:
=========

BEZEL: Only aesthetic part. I'm using 2.25" ID,

1.75" ID

for the ring, as I can get tubing with these

dimensions from

places like McMaster. I'd need to cut thin slices

(about

3/8" thick) from the tube to make a ring, then use

a lathe

to cut back a part of the inside to ~ 2" ID.

BODY: I'll use 2" OD, 1.9" ID tubing here, cut to

a length

of approx 2". Only lathe work here is the

threads. I can

make the tabs by using a fiberglass cutoff-wheel

or other

saw.

BACK COVER: I'll use sheet-metal for this, but

not sure

what's the best process to cut clean consistent

circles.

My Questions:
=============

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with

a lathe?

I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get

in there

easily.

A boring bar (or boring tool) is designed to do this
easily.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

Easier than trying to cut a short, large diameter
thread any other
way. It's less exciting if there's an unthreaded
relief at the blind
end and if you run the lathe in reverse, to have the
tool moving away
from the chuck while making a right hand thread.

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the

outside

surface?

With difficulty. You'll need to make some sort of
fixture that's
softer than the bezel, yet, able to hold it securely
& accurately.
It'd be easier to machine the outside & front after
it's threaded.
(Screw it onto a mandrel for final machining.)

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of

the rings?

I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as

much as

possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a

lathe so

any marks are circular (so it looks more like a

pattern)?

The good way is a parting tool and a lathe large
enough to pass the
tubing thru the spindle! The practical way on a 7xX
is to rough out
the blanks with a chop/band/hack saw and face them
to size.
Alternately, with lots of waste, part some off a
piece of tubing held
in a chuck/on a mandrel. After a few are done,
start with another
piece of tubing - there's a limited range between
too long to fit the
lathe & too short to hold. You may need to use a
steady rest, which
tends to mark the outside of the tubing.

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and

instead let

the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd

use a

small set-screw going vertically from the bottom

of the

bezel to hold the body on.

Boring & cross-drilling is easier than boring,
threading internal +
threading external.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body?

I don't

mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but

not sure

how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way

to

expensive for me now.

Supposedly, you can buy drawn cups. I've never done
it, so I'm just
passing along a shop rumor <g> If the end can be
thicker, you can
turn a shoulder on a purchased disc or blank some
out of plate with a
hole saw. If you've got a drill press, a hole saw
without the pilot
drill will produce solid discs (it also howls enough
to panic the
cats & annoy SWMBO <G>)

Roy

I'm trying to make this a science rather than an

art, so

I get consistent repeatable results. So I don't

mind

making jigs where necessary. Any other info

towards these

goals is much appreciated.

Thanks much,
-Neil.

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Hey Roy,

Thanks for the info. Comments interspersed below...

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with a lathe?
I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get in there
easily.

A boring bar (or boring tool) is designed to do this easily.

I'll assume this is one of the cutting tools available for a
lathe.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

Easier than trying to cut a short, large diameter thread any other
way. It's less exciting if there's an unthreaded relief at the blind
end and if you run the lathe in reverse, to have the tool moving away
from the chuck while making a right hand thread.

After much thought, I've decided to get away from the threads
and make the parts snug-fit, with a small set screw to hold them
together.

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the outside
surface?

With difficulty. You'll need to make some sort of fixture that's
softer than the bezel, yet, able to hold it securely & accurately.
It'd be easier to machine the outside & front after it's threaded.
(Screw it onto a mandrel for final machining.)

Sound like you're saying that the threading process will
be the problem in this respect. Sounds plausible since
the bezel will need to be gripped tight. Since I'm leaning
away from threading now, I may be okay? If not, I guess I
can lightly machine the outside to clean it up.

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of the rings?
I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as much as
possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a lathe so
any marks are circular (so it looks more like a pattern)?

The good way is a parting tool and a lathe large enough to pass the
tubing thru the spindle! The practical way on a 7xX is to rough out
the blanks with a chop/band/hack saw and face them to size.
Alternately, with lots of waste, part some off a piece of tubing held
in a chuck/on a mandrel. After a few are done, start with another
piece of tubing - there's a limited range between too long to fit the
lathe & too short to hold. You may need to use a steady rest, which
tends to mark the outside of the tubing.

I'm a bit confused about what you mean here, since I'm not that
familiar with the lathe yet, until I get one. But I'll look it up
in the lathe docs I downloaded.

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and instead let
the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd use a
small set-screw going vertically from the bottom of the
bezel to hold the body on.

Boring & cross-drilling is easier than boring, threading internal +
threading external.

Good. This (threading) option eliminated.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body? I don't
mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but not sure
how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way to
expensive for me now.

Supposedly, you can buy drawn cups. I've never done it, so I'm just
passing along a shop rumor <g> ...

Have never been able to find this, but I recently realized that I
need the back cover off to assemble the unit (mounting a part on
the cover for use as a heat-sink).

... If the end can be thicker, you can
turn a shoulder on a purchased disc or blank some out of plate with a
hole saw. If you've got a drill press, a hole saw without the pilot
drill will produce solid discs (it also howls enough to panic the
cats & annoy SWMBO <G>)

Yep. This was my first thought, but I thought I'd ask otherwise
since I need to experiment with the available standard hole-saw
sizes to see if one fits my app.


Cheers,
-Neil.

Dean,

I also like the inch calibration on the Micro-Mark which was my first
choice, but cannot see any justification for the price difference, and
agree with comments by bflint. If I were looking to spent what the
Micro-Mark costs, I would seriously consider the Lathemaster 8x14 or
the Enco 9x20 (currently on sale at $699).

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Dean Gebhardt <craftsman@n...>"
<craftsman@n...> wrote:

I'll admit that I'm a new member here, though I've been watching the
list for a while.

A few weeks ago an Atlas 6x18 *followed* me home, in exchange for a
minimal fee. My intent was to get back into some small machining,
and making small parts to repair some of the vintage woodworking
equipment I have.

As luck would have it the 6x18 is in need of several parts. The
dilema I face is whether to wait out the parts on eBay, or procede
with a 7x purchase. In the meantime I've given considerable thought
to a 7x.

I've done a fair amount of research and have spent hours over on
Frank's web site. I was all set to call Homier and order a 7x12,
when comments appeared regarding the MicroMark 7x14. This brings me
to my primary question.

Are there enough advantages to the 7x14 MicroMark to justify buying
it? The cam-lock tailstock is a nice feature, but a *suitable
substitute* can be made. I guess the thing that caught my eye was
the *True-Inch* measurements. Is this worth the extra $250 over
similar 7x12s? Any idea if an aftermarket *True-Inch* product is in
the works or available now?

I would be greatful for any user comments on the MicroMark 7x14.

Thanks, and I hope to be a valued contributor in the near future.

Dean

I have the Micromark 7X14 and am very happy with it. The size fills the
problem of "too small" or "Too big", it fits right in the middle. If you
bought a basic 7x12 and eventually wanted to add some desirable features such
as the camlock tailstock, conversion to inches, the extra 2 inch bed length,
bigger motor, tachometer, the cost would just about come to the price it
sells for, plus you'd have 14" instead of 12".

Dean,
True inch by itself is not worth the price difference. You can get an inch
conversion kit for a Homier for a lot less than $250!
Micro Mark sells a kit for 7x lathes for $70. Item number 82545

Regardless, IMHO true inch is not a big advantage. You'll end up using
calipers to measure after almost every cut anyway.
I can't recall the exact numbers, but *at best* the difference in precision
offered by using the true inch dial is miniscule. In other words, while the
fake inch dial reads .0400" per turn, it's really only giving you about
.0397" per turn You won't be getting that kind of precision with these
little lathes anyway!

Those who've bought the MicroMark seem to be happy with it though.
bbftx

I'll admit that I'm a new member here, though I've been watching the
list for a while.

A few weeks ago an Atlas 6x18 *followed* me home, in exchange for a
minimal fee. My intent was to get back into some small machining,
and making small parts to repair some of the vintage woodworking
equipment I have.

As luck would have it the 6x18 is in need of several parts. The
dilema I face is whether to wait out the parts on eBay, or procede
with a 7x purchase. In the meantime I've given considerable thought
to a 7x.

I've done a fair amount of research and have spent hours over on
Frank's web site. I was all set to call Homier and order a 7x12,
when comments appeared regarding the MicroMark 7x14. This brings me
to my primary question.

Are there enough advantages to the 7x14 MicroMark to justify buying
it? The cam-lock tailstock is a nice feature, but a *suitable
substitute* can be made. I guess the thing that caught my eye was
the *True-Inch* measurements. Is this worth the extra $250 over
similar 7x12s? Any idea if an aftermarket *True-Inch* product is in
the works or available now?

I would be greatful for any user comments on the MicroMark 7x14.

Thanks, and I hope to be a valued contributor in the near future.

Dean

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Neil" <cobra_neil@a...> wrote:

Hi all,

Here is a sketch of what I need to make (> 20 pieces).


The unit will be used for gauges for my, and a friend's
car.

This will be my *excuse* for purchasing a lathe, and other
appropriate tools. Wondering if someone can assist my
letting me know if I'm on the right track.



The Plan:
=========

BEZEL: Only aesthetic part. I'm using 2.25" ID, 1.75" ID
for the ring, as I can get tubing with these dimensions from
places like McMaster. I'd need to cut thin slices (about
3/8" thick) from the tube to make a ring, then use a lathe
to cut back a part of the inside to ~ 2" ID.

BODY: I'll use 2" OD, 1.9" ID tubing here, cut to a length
of approx 2". Only lathe work here is the threads. I can
make the tabs by using a fiberglass cutoff-wheel or other
saw.

BACK COVER: I'll use sheet-metal for this, but not sure
what's the best process to cut clean consistent circles.


My Questions:
=============

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with a lathe?
I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get in there
easily.

A boring bar (or boring tool) is designed to do this easily.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

Easier than trying to cut a short, large diameter thread any other
way. It's less exciting if there's an unthreaded relief at the blind
end and if you run the lathe in reverse, to have the tool moving away
from the chuck while making a right hand thread.

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the outside
surface?

With difficulty. You'll need to make some sort of fixture that's
softer than the bezel, yet, able to hold it securely & accurately.
It'd be easier to machine the outside & front after it's threaded.
(Screw it onto a mandrel for final machining.)

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of the rings?
I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as much as
possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a lathe so
any marks are circular (so it looks more like a pattern)?

The good way is a parting tool and a lathe large enough to pass the
tubing thru the spindle! The practical way on a 7xX is to rough out
the blanks with a chop/band/hack saw and face them to size.
Alternately, with lots of waste, part some off a piece of tubing held
in a chuck/on a mandrel. After a few are done, start with another
piece of tubing - there's a limited range between too long to fit the
lathe & too short to hold. You may need to use a steady rest, which
tends to mark the outside of the tubing.

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and instead let
the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd use a
small set-screw going vertically from the bottom of the
bezel to hold the body on.

Boring & cross-drilling is easier than boring, threading internal +
threading external.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body? I don't
mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but not sure
how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way to
expensive for me now.

Supposedly, you can buy drawn cups. I've never done it, so I'm just
passing along a shop rumor <g> If the end can be thicker, you can
turn a shoulder on a purchased disc or blank some out of plate with a
hole saw. If you've got a drill press, a hole saw without the pilot
drill will produce solid discs (it also howls enough to panic the
cats & annoy SWMBO <G>)

Roy

I'm trying to make this a science rather than an art, so
I get consistent repeatable results. So I don't mind
making jigs where necessary. Any other info towards these
goals is much appreciated.

Thanks much,
-Neil.

Hi all,

Here is a sketch of what I need to make (> 20 pieces).


The unit will be used for gauges for my, and a friend's
car.

This will be my *excuse* for purchasing a lathe, and other
appropriate tools. Wondering if someone can assist my
letting me know if I'm on the right track.



The Plan:
=========

BEZEL: Only aesthetic part. I'm using 2.25" ID, 1.75" ID
for the ring, as I can get tubing with these dimensions from
places like McMaster. I'd need to cut thin slices (about
3/8" thick) from the tube to make a ring, then use a lathe
to cut back a part of the inside to ~ 2" ID.

BODY: I'll use 2" OD, 1.9" ID tubing here, cut to a length
of approx 2". Only lathe work here is the threads. I can
make the tabs by using a fiberglass cutoff-wheel or other
saw.

BACK COVER: I'll use sheet-metal for this, but not sure
what's the best process to cut clean consistent circles.


My Questions:
=============

- Is the cut on the inside of the bezel easy with a lathe?
I'm still not sure if the cutting tools will get in there
easily.

- Are internal threads easy to cut with a lathe?

- Can I do the bezel w/o damage or marks to the outside
surface?

- What's a good way to cut thin, clean slices of the rings?
I'd like to avoid manual polishing/cleaning as much as
possible. Is there some way I can cut it on a lathe so
any marks are circular (so it looks more like a pattern)?

- Alternate option is to not use threads, and instead let
the body slide snugly into the bezel. Then I'd use a
small set-screw going vertically from the bottom of the
bezel to hold the body on.

- Any easier way to attach the cover to the body? I don't
mind welding (to avoid cutting the tabs), but not sure
how to do this w/o a tig welder, and that's way to
expensive for me now.

I'm trying to make this a science rather than an art, so
I get consistent repeatable results. So I don't mind
making jigs where necessary. Any other info towards these
goals is much appreciated.

Thanks much,
-Neil.

Jerry,
The frame/ways are available at LMS and generally in stock.

As to which brand, the quality is about the same, and any differences
are within individual examples and there are quality control issues.
If both 7x10 and 7x12 fit the needs, pick by color; I wanted green,
but Grizzly is too high priced, so I have blue (Homier).

Craig

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

is it possible to get the rail bed for the 12" lathe?

Jerry

At 08:25 PM 1/13/2003 -0800, you wrote:

Get the 7x12. There used to be some cost justification
for the 7x10, but not anymore. The 7x12 is much more
versatile due to the extra 4" length.

Frank Hoose
<>

--- "tjk2000us2000 <tjk2000us2000@y...>"
<tjk2000us2000@y...> wrote:

OK the wife TOLD me to go get a lathe!!!! I see HF's
7x10 is down to
$329.00. 7x10, 7x12 they both are big enough for
what I want.I have
been to mini_lathe.com but can't make up my mind.
Any thoughts on which
one to chose if it was you and why?

Thanks,
Tim




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Hii Friends,
My name is Frank and I m realy happy to join this group which i feel is of great importance to me.Workin in this field for almost 6 years , I hop[e i can contribute as well.
Well friends , at present I m looking for a fixture for boring of jaws for different diameters (ID as well as OD). presently i m carrying out this by holding different sizes of packing rings for different dia.can anybody suggest some better idea for carrying out this operations?
Regards,
Frank




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Hello, I am considering purchasing a second larger lathe. My first being a Sherline.

I am considering the lathe from Samuel Machinery and thought I would ask the group about the lathes and company before I part with hard earned dollars.

I am looking at the BV20 and BV25. But might go with smaller CH-350 since were I live is not permement and I may move in the next 3-5 years.

If someone has these products and wishes to e-mail me off list. Or point me to another groups to ask my quests that would be great. Thanks

is it possible to get the rail bed for the 12" lathe?

Jerry

Another way to do this without special tooling is to
work the carriage handwheel together with the
cross-feed using a rounded tool. With a little
practice you can cut a reasonably smooth radius.
Finish with a file.

Frank Hoose


--- "evill914 <evill914@...>" <evill914@...>
wrote:

I'm a beginer with my lathe. I have been practicing
facing, turning
and boring with good results.

My question is, how do you create a cure on a work
piece. I want to
make dies for an air planishing hammer. The radius
would be cut on the
face side. That is, instead of creating a flat face,
which I can now
do, how do I create a small dome on the end. I want
to create domes
that are almost flat to moderately curved.

Any tips and advice are greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Ed



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