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Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood. However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible. After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately. A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly. Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines). This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum. After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table. Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long. And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily. Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe? paul |
Re: Dial indicator disassembly
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Right, but I'm trying to fix it. |
Re: Dial indicator disassembly
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??? It still works if ya zero it . I thought those 2" ones cost a
fair bit more than a 1" but Shars has one for 28 bucks if ya order
online , but probably another 20 bucks freight ? animal On 4/22/24 5:45 PM, upand_at_them via
groups.io wrote:
Unfortunately, mine is like none of those.? No screws or retainers holding it on. |
Re: Dial indicator disassembly
Not familiar with the LMS.? However, I just had an older Mitutoyo apart that I bought used off ebay.? The bezel and housing gets pried off - there are wire spring retainers in a groove that keep it in place. That said, I have other indicators that have snap rings holding the bezel on, and some I haven't figured out how to get apart.? I think the Federals have a small gap in the bezel housing that you stick a tool into...
On Monday, April 22nd, 2024 at 8:22 PM, upand_at_them via groups.io <upand_at_them@...> wrote: Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart?? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing.? The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off. |
Re: Tailstock nut
Dear Mike,
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Thank you. That¡¯s an XLNT idea. David On 20 Apr 2024, at 02:45, mike allen <animal@...> wrote: |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
"I am the only one doing this?" Nope, I've done it many times. With a new, experimental idea, you can't be sure it'll work at all until you make a prototype and try it.? Might as well make that prototype out of plentiful and inexpensive material. Mike Taglieri? On Fri, Apr 19, 2024, 6:22 PM Walter Wpg via <walter.wpg=[email protected]> wrote: Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýA number of Ted Hansen¡¯s articles in his Minilathe book and articles in HSM use wood; like using plywood on the faceplate to screw down parts requiring odd bores, or as a protective measure when boring through-holes.?At the beginning of his book he makes a fly cutter and uses it to make a new pulley for the lathe¡¯s belt drive, and uses wood to set the height of the fly cutter stock before milling the slot, and later as part of a dividing apparatus to machine the pulley grooves, using the fly cutter he made. For one-off fixtures or things that don¡¯t require the strength of metal, it¡¯s ideal since it can be shaped without nearly as much effort or time.
--?
Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism. |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I have use metal lathes for a lot of wood work.
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Foundry patterns,? replacement parts, electronics and list goes on. Does far better job than wool lathes.? Dave? Charles Kinzer 3:50pm? ? I suspect it is uncommon in the world of making accessories for machine tools. But certainly not a bad idea |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I suspect it is uncommon in the world of making accessories for machine tools.? But certainly not a bad idea.? What it is - is -prototyping.? When I was an Engineering Manager I promoted the notion "prototype early and often."? It is a fast way to find out if things make any sense or have any surprises.? It has another benefit that won't matter to the "lone wolf" home machinist.? And that is making it much easier for others to see the design who may not comprehend very well just looking at drawings.? (Of course, this might also include the design engineer!) Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 03:22:51 PM PDT, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). I am the only one doing this? |
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories
I think some wooden knobs might be interesting. Can't say I ever made any fixtures out of wood, although the wood mockup idea seems sound. If I'm not using metal, I tend more towards plastic but I imagine the right specie of hardwood can be useful in some cases.
On Friday, April 19th, 2024 at 6:22 PM, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote: Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). |
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