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Re: Mini lathe motor temperature

 

50% of motors running full speed the bearings will only last 20,000 hour but the coil last a lot longer dust is next problem.??

But biggest reason failed of a motor running lower speed is over heating. The fan is not running fast enough to cool the motor.? This because cutting low speed under heavy load.? This is our problem on mini lathes.
The speed is 100 rpm and the fan turns slowly.?
If turning at 2,000 rpm the fan is doing? a great job of cooling.??

I have seen 30 hp DC motors on machine tools. They add a very large fan for cooling.?

It hard to put a good cooling fan in a tight spot.?

Dave?


On Tue, Apr 30, 2024 at 02:28 PM, WAM wrote:
Thermal images of the LMS motor? -


On 4/30/2024 4:36 PM, davesmith1800 via groups.io wrote:
After researching of motors are 221¡ãF [105¡ãC] after that the life is shortened.
The outside temperature is about? 60¡ãF to 70¡ãF? [15 to 20¡ãC ] less the coil temperature.? So if outside is could be wend the coil is? 221¡ãF [105¡ãC] the outside is between? 151¡ãF and 161¡ãF [85 an 90¡ãC].

On my gauge I set the red mark at 80¡ãC and 105¡ãC.
If I see gets never red it time to let motor cool down and gives little to finish the cut.

The Capillary is attached by HVAC Aluminum tape , max temperature is 145 ¡ãC at this point the motor is toast

Dave

Attachments:
20240429_111501.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119482/
20240430_111809.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119482/1
20240430_122140.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119482/2
Re: Mini lathe motor temperature

 

Thermal images of the LMS motor? -

On 4/30/2024 4:36 PM, davesmith1800 via groups.io wrote:
After researching of motors are 221¡ãF [105¡ãC] after that the life is shortened.
The outside temperature is about? 60¡ãF to 70¡ãF? [15 to 20¡ãC ] less the coil temperature.? So if outside is could be wend the coil is? 221¡ãF [105¡ãC] the outside is between? 151¡ãF and 161¡ãF [85 an 90¡ãC].

On my gauge I set the red mark at 80¡ãC and 105¡ãC.
If I see gets never red it time to let motor cool down and gives little to finish the cut.

The Capillary is attached by HVAC Aluminum tape , max temperature is 145 ¡ãC at this point the motor is toast

Dave

Attachments:
20240429_111501.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119482/
20240430_111809.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119482/1
20240430_122140.jpg: /g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119482/2
Re: Mini lathe motor temperature

 

FYI?
If motor is over 145¡ãF [63¡ãC] do not touch it will burn.
So can be burn at a lower temperature and some can go above.

Dave?
Mini lathe motor temperature

 

After researching of motors are 221¡ãF [105¡ãC] after that the life is shortened.?
The outside temperature is about? 60¡ãF to 70¡ãF? [15 to 20¡ãC ] less the coil temperature.? So if outside is could be wend the coil is? 221¡ãF [105¡ãC] the outside is between? 151¡ãF and 161¡ãF [85 an 90¡ãC].

On my gauge I set the red mark at 80¡ãC and 105¡ãC.?
If I see gets never red it time to let motor cool down and gives little to finish the cut.?

The Capillary is attached by HVAC Aluminum tape , max temperature is 145 ¡ãC at this point the motor is toast?

Dave?
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

image
This is my last solution, for a specific job. A big clamp keeps it stable. 150 cm around.
Johannes ? Lavoll. ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
? ?




On 28 Apr 2024, at 18:25, Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

?I've had good results with wooden accessories made out of Baltic Birch plywood. The real Baltic Birch has thinner layers than construction grade plywood + they're all birch. It's a bit pricy, but, worth it for maximum strength & stability

?< >

Roy

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I've had good results with wooden accessories made out of Baltic Birch plywood. The real Baltic Birch has thinner layers than construction grade plywood + they're all birch. It's a bit pricy, but, worth it for maximum strength & stability

?< >

Roy
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I recently used wood to make part of a spindle indexer for my mini-lathe. (see attached photos). The metal parts are borrowed from my spindle hand-crank. I made a new bushing which snugly fits the gear-end of the spindle, and has a hub which fits the inside diameter of my plastic change gears. But I used wood for the overhanging part which mounts to the left end of the headstock, and holds the "pointer" which engages the teeth of the mounted gear. This setup is accurate and rigid enough for my purposes.

spindle_indexer_1.jpg
spindle_indexer_2.jpg

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

Metal lathes are often used in ornamental wood turning. There are examples from David Lindow and Plumier on YouTube. You can mount a cross slide on a woodturning lathe for precision work of necessary have a look at the discontinued Nova Ornamental Turner. I have seen examples of a boring head being mounted in both the tailstock and headstock of a woodturning lathe too.
--
Colin Spencer
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I use shop vac too.

Dave?
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

Just a reminder:
Vacuum is good when you are turning wood, not metal.
Let the workshop look a little bit messy before vacuuming warm metal.

Johannes Lavoll.

On 25 Apr 2024, at 08:46, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:

Thanks for the observations. Setting up a vacuum is an excellent idea. And I might tape over some of the gaps in the chuck to keep sawdust out of there.

paul
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Get or make a copier for the Shopsmith

animal

On 4/25/24 7:46 AM, Paul Fox wrote:

The reason I'm tempted to try some wood turning on the metal lathe is mainly because of precision.? I have a lot of trouble getting the length of a turned piece exact on my wood lathe, for instance, and getting identical profiles for two consecutive turnings (i.e., for two matching parts) is difficult for me as well.? (My wood lathe is also a Shopsmith, from the 1950s.? It works well.? It's me that has the problems.? :-)

Thanks for the observations.? Setting up a vacuum is an excellent idea.? And I might tape over some of the gaps in the chuck to keep sawdust out of there.

paul

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

The reason I'm tempted to try some wood turning on the metal lathe is mainly because of precision.? I have a lot of trouble getting the length of a turned piece exact on my wood lathe, for instance, and getting identical profiles for two consecutive turnings (i.e., for two matching parts) is difficult for me as well.? (My wood lathe is also a Shopsmith, from the 1950s.? It works well.? It's me that has the problems.? :-)

Thanks for the observations.? Setting up a vacuum is an excellent idea.? And I might tape over some of the gaps in the chuck to keep sawdust out of there.

paul
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I did say small wood working. Should have been clearer. Ment small jobs more than once or twice. If just once, yea, I might use my lathe but boy I would really have to think about it. I think once you get into using the metal lathe for woodworking, one might find themselves doing more. Thus my personal thoughts on getting a small wood lathe rather than messing up my metal lathe.?

george

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 05:51:45 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


You have to clean wood lathes, too.

Also, you would typically be using hand tools (which you also have to buy or make) on a tool rest where sometimes the metal working setup can be handy.

For something that is done rarely, or even just once.? Using what you having and just cleaning it is vastly more economical.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:51:19 PM PDT, gcvisalia@... <gcvisalia@...> wrote:


I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe.

george

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.

However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.

After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.

A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.

Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).

This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.

Inline image

After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.

Inline image

Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.

And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.

Inline image

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer



On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:


For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?

paul

Re: Dial indicator disassembly

 

For chrisser, this might help.? It's what made me realize I was prying on the wrong part of the bezel.
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

You have to clean wood lathes, too.

Also, you would typically be using hand tools (which you also have to buy or make) on a tool rest where sometimes the metal working setup can be handy.

For something that is done rarely, or even just once.? Using what you having and just cleaning it is vastly more economical.

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:51:19 PM PDT, gcvisalia@... <gcvisalia@...> wrote:


I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe.

george

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.

However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.

After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.

A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.

Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).

This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.

Inline image

After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.

Inline image

Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.

And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.

Inline image

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer



On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:


For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?

paul

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

ok? bruce?
he? kink is? ok?

I have? something? simular
but?
I? add a blower? in? front?

a 300 sfm? 2 barrel??

add? to? 2? 4 inch? tube? to? blow? in? the funnel? in? the back?


also? use it? for? stone? stulture? or? soap? stone?

jack 47 71
Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I actually HAVE a wood-turning lathe as part of my Shopsmith Mark V, but I've never used it. (I use the other tools on the Shopsmith all the time, as often for for cutting metal as for wood).

So when I need to turn small wooden things, I do it on the minilathe. I think the fear of water is overblown. First, you're probably not turning GREEN wood but seasoned wood, which doesn't have much water in it (although sawdust can attract water).

Second, what do you think the WD in WD-40 stands for?? People are always knocking WD-40 here, saying it's "a water-displacement compound, not a lubricant."? It actually is a light waxy lubricant dissolved in solvent, but they're completely right that water displacement is what the stuff was invented for.?

So spray your lathe with WD-40 before you start turning the wood, then wipe it down afterwards and you'll be fine.? Concerning the backsplash and water getting trapped there, I thought everybody already removed those and threw them away. That's certainly what I did. I don't think a backsplash is particularly useful on a tiny lathe with so little room between the backsplash and the lathe bed. But if you're fond of your backsplash spray those seams with WD-40 also.

Finally, drilling tiny holes and cutting wood are the only times I use the "high" range on the minilathe.? They recommend against doing a lot of wood turning on Myford, South Bend, and other lathes with bronze bearings, because the high speeds necessary for wood turning can overheat the bearings. But our lathes do perfectly fine at those speeds.

Mike Taglieri?


On Fri, Apr 19, 2024, 6:22 PM Walter Wpg via <walter.wpg=[email protected]> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).

I am the only one doing this?

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

You could go the way of wood lathes, and set up a vacuum cleaner at the point of cutting to catch the majority of the sawdust :


You could probably cobble together something with a shop vac and cardboard for a one-off ?use.

But if you¡¯re going to do this kind of thing more regularly, I¡¯d just use my mini-lathe to make the metal parts for a wood lathe, which has vastly lower mechanical and precision requirements.

Pretty much all you need is a motor at one end, a tailstock at the other and some sort of tool rest that lets you put the tool cutting edge at center height.

On Apr 24, 2024, at 1:26 PM, Charles Kinzer via <ckinzer@...> wrote:

I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.

However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.

After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.

A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.

Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).

This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.

<1713989626701blob.jpg>

After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.

<1713989777371blob.jpg>

Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.

And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.

<1713989917650blob.jpg>

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer



On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:


For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?

paul
<1713989626701blob.jpg><1713989777371blob.jpg><1713989917650blob.jpg>

--?
Bruce Johnson

"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe.

george

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:


I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.

However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.

After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.

A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.

Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).

This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.

Inline image

After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.

Inline image

Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.

And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.

Inline image

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer



On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:


For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?

paul

Re: Using wood for mini-lathe and mini-mill accessories

 

I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.

However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.

After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.

A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.

Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).

This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.

Inline image

After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.

Inline image

Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.

And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.

Inline image

Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer



On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:


For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?

paul

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