Date

Re: Boring bar setup question

John Lindo
 

Hello Ryan.
You did not mention if this was a through hole that you have problems with.
If it is a blind hole,a boring bar with a flood coolant hole may work,to wash out the chips.
I agree with the comments about rake angles.
IMO carbide for cuttingaluminium never seems to work well.the chips tend to stick to the tip even with WD 40 as a cutting lubricant.
Try using a home made boring bar with a HSS tool bit.,and or a D bit drill made out of 3/4 " drill rod.
Just for interest,how did you get the hole roughed out in the first place?
If a through hole have you thought about boring from both ends,skimming the outside diameter and using a soft jaws in a 3 jaw chuck,
or a 4 jaw chuck, using a Dial indicator to get the concentricity when boring from the other end.

John L
Spain.


From: cnc sales
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Boring bar setup question

Hi Ryan !
For good results, boring holes are typically limited to about 1.5-2x boring bar diameter.

As such, a 3/8 boring bar is only good to about 1/2 inches.
After this it will chatter with variable results.

All lathe tools work well only upto about 1-3x their size.
Ie a 1/2 inch tool will only work well to 1-1.5 inches deep.

However..
Alu is easy.

Your problem is rake.
CCMT is 7 degrees positive and you need to maintain this, *especially* when doing deep bores.
With a -5 degrees boring bar, you are losing the benefits of the insert, and greatly increasing the problems of the overly long, slim, thin bar.

It *can* be done with a 3/8 in alu but not well, imo.
You need to have at least 7 degrees rake, even a bit more.

If you can make (buy) another bar (any steel) of near .7 inches, and have the bit be at zero-1 degree rake, it will go vastly better.
For alu, at .75 inches or about 18 mm, I would recommend about 1000 rpm, 0.1 - 0.06 mm cuts.


Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5° negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan

--
-hanermo



Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

I agree with the QCTP thought, couple of reasons, FIRST, for me it was setting tool bit height! I’m NOT a machinist, bought a 7X five years ago and the first “upgrade� was the Quick Change Tool Post. Over the years I’ve picked up a couple more tool holders, makes setting the height and tool changes a POC (piece of cake)

I went the “Cheep� HF ¼� tool route.� mistake…�. Then I bought a “pre-ground� set from Grizzly…�.. beautiful (expensive) wood case, real cutters! Of course I jammed em�, dropped em�, galled�. used and abused em�, they got dull! What to do now, learn to grind my own. As a concept, up there with sliced bread. One can become adequate with a cheap 6”grinder, and a little practice! LMS has (2) two items that were invaluable to me during my “steep� learn curve. This video� and these HSS blanks�.

All The Best,

Allen, on an island in SE Alaska

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:38 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools




I second the QCTP setup.... I got one last year and I honestly don't know what I'd be doing without it right now....

From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...] On Behalf Of Jim Dunmyer
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 8:42 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

Jeremy,

Do yourself a huge favor and get a QCTP setup from LMS. See: for their selection; I don’t know which one you need right offhand, but they’re very helpful if you ask. While you’re at it, buy a few HSS toolbits and grind them according to your needs.

<>

Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:16 PM

Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy





Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

Jim Dunmyer
 

Mike,
When I had my H.F. lathe, I bought a 17mm combination wrench at a flea market, then cut it about in half with an abrasive wheel. The box end of it is bent at an angle, and it hangs on the T.S. clamp nut. You can usually loosen/tighten the nut w/o actually removing the wrench at all. If you do have to move it, one additional swing will do the job. It’s nearly as fast as a true cam-lock T.S., and clamps better. At least, it worked better than the cam-lock setup on my Micro-Mark 7X14.
<>

From: Exibar
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 12:05 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!

I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well. Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit. I see LMS has them for $30... Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

thanks!

Mike B


Re: Boring bar setup question

 

Hi Ryan !
For good results, boring holes are typically limited to about 1.5-2x boring bar diameter.

As such, a 3/8 boring bar is only good to about 1/2 inches.
After this it will chatter with variable results.

All lathe tools work well only upto about 1-3x their size.
Ie a 1/2 inch tool will only work well to 1-1.5 inches deep.

However..
Alu is easy.

Your problem is rake.
CCMT is 7 degrees positive and you need to maintain this, *especially* when doing deep bores.
With a -5 degrees boring bar, you are losing the benefits of the insert, and greatly increasing the problems of the overly long, slim, thin bar.

It *can* be done with a 3/8 in alu but not well, imo.
You need to have at least 7 degrees rake, even a bit more.

If you can make (buy) another bar (any steel) of near .7 inches, and have the bit be at zero-1 degree rake, it will go vastly better.
For alu, at .75 inches or about 18 mm, I would recommend about 1000 rpm, 0.1 - 0.06 mm cuts.


Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5° negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan


-- 
-hanermo


Re: Boring bar setup question

 

Thanks! I'll read the .pdf's when I get home.

One thing I see from the thread is I may have got the wrong inserts. I probably should have got 20.50's with the .008" nose instead of 20.51's with an .016" nose.



WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:

There's a great article on boring bar chatter:

A lot of math tho...

Long thin boring bars are prone to that.

Some comments here:


Do you have a larger diameter boring bar? That may help...

Also - tunable boring bar article:


Basically add some mass to change the resonant frequency ...

Ryan_Hodges wrote:

>Hi group!
>
>I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5° negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.
>
>I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.
>
>Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?
>
>Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!
>
>Ryan
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

 

Many complain about stock carbide stuff.

This is usually because the tools are not the right ones for the lathe !

Many cheap carbide sets are 0% and so on of an angle (rake).
In industrial use, negative angles are common.
This is because negative angle tools last lots longer, and produce parts very well for a long time, when sufficient tool pressure (derived from HP and rigidity) are used.
These are impossible to utilise on common cheap 7x-11x lathes.

A small, low powered 7x needs either HSS or a positive angle carbide insert,
CCMT is a common, well known, very succesful, solution. 7 degrees positive rake.
I use these on both 7x and 12x industrial stuff with great results.

Industrial stuff often needs high pressure and heat to work well.
Minimum cutting depths are 0.2- .3 or so mm in medium (100MM) diameters.
This needs several Hp.


When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy



-- 
-hanermo


Re: Boring bar setup question

 

There's a great article on boring bar chatter:

A lot of math tho...

Long thin boring bars are prone to that.

Some comments here:


Do you have a larger diameter boring bar? That may help...

Also - tunable boring bar article:


Basically add some mass to change the resonant frequency ...





Ryan_Hodges wrote:

Hi group!
I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5� negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.
I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.
Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?
Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links





Boring bar setup question

 

Hi group!

I recently bought a 3/8 indexable boring bar that uses CCMT inserts. The bar has 5° negative built in. I'm using CCGT high polish 21.51 inserts and have a huge amount of chatter. I'm doing a 3/4 inch diameter hole just over 3" deep in 6161 aluminum.

I've tried the bar above center and on center. Above seems to chatter a bit less but I still can't get a nice cut.

Wrong insert, bad setup? Do I need a different bar? Just too deep of a hole and I'm going to have to live with it?

Any tips, tricks, hints, etc will be greatly appreciated!

Ryan


Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

Ellis, I never thought of using a ring spanner,good idea.No work to do with your method.
mike


From: Ellis Cory
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 3:52 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

Mike wrote....... I did not use a camlock, instead I made another nut higher than the original and drilled and tapped in several places for a lever handle.......
I didn't make a camlock. I used a ring spanner, the type with an angle to the handle for hand clearance. Used upside down, it does the job perfectly, clearing the compound slide and staying in place.
Cheers.
Ellis



Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

I have the kit while the install could be a little fiddly...to a point of annoying the result is great I also have drilled and tapped the 1/2" hole to a 1/2" NPT to accept brass insert so the shaft of the cam can ride on wider bushing type of a hole...worked for me. no miss-alignmentwasexperiencedalthough I do take thetail-stockon and offfrequently

On Sat, Feb 2, 2013 at 10:52 PM, michael kolchins <kwoodhands@...> wrote:

Can't help with the switch but might help with the tailstock. I did not use a camlock, instead I made another nut higher than the original and drilled and tapped in several places for a lever handle. I made the nut about 1" high I think,I'm not near the shop to look at it.Then tightened the nut and marked it for where I wanted to have the handle.I drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 thread at my mark and also another at the left and right of the first tapped hole. The second and third tapped holes were for just in case I might need them to tighten or loosen the tail stock.This worked well for me so I did the same thing on my larger lathe,10x22.You won't need to touch the tail stock ,just make the tall nut and lever handle. You can use round stock or hex stock which I used.Round stock would need at least two flats milled so a wrench can be used if needed.I can only think of a couple of times I needed to use the wrench to tighten the tail stock. Both times I was drilling a large bore in aluminum bronze and the tail stock slipped a bit.
mike


From: Exibar <exibar@...>
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Sent: Sunday, February 3, 2013 12:05 AM
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!
I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well. Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)
My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap? I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?
I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit. I see LMS has them for $30... Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move? will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock? My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(
thanks!
Mike B




Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

 

Mike;
Before you install a new switch,try spraying it out from the bottom,with plastic safe elec.cleaner.
Put a towell over everything else to prevent overspray.
There is usually enough room on the bottom ,around where the tabs are bent over the pc board type insulating material,where the connectors are,to get some spray in.
Mine was full of the same red grease the lathe was packed in.
When It got cool out in the shop,it would quit working till the shop got to 70 deg.
If it doesnt help,give LMS a call and get a new one.


--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 11:09 AM

Swapping switches is a simple soldering job if you know how to work on circuit boards. The TS camlocksI made for my 7x lathes work very well, and I'm sure the LMS ones will, too. LMS is a very reliable bunch.
Mert
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 12:05 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!

������ I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well.�� Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap?���� I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit.�� I see LMS has them for $30...�� Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move?�� will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock?�� My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

thanks!

�� Mike B


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

Look for a supplier ,on ebay from china,most offer a free economy shipping.
I read the Chineese Govt is smart enough to allow super cheap shipping ,by putting mail on US bound ships,flights,etc. to allow exports to go out with out a customer worring about excess costs.
You think our Govt.,would do this to try to get US made goods out ,and increase jobs,& commerce.
The china made components are so cheap,I usuall buy 10.00 worth,and have spares,as I have found brand new ones that did not work either.


--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 11:39 AM

Surely there are radio supply stores in Australia? I know it's vast &
populated mostly around the edges, but I would think that asking around
would turn up a solution.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
[mailto:]On Behalf Of Den
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 4:40 AM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Horsepower Resistor

MERTON B BAKER
 

Surely there are radio supply stores in Australia? I know it's vast &
populated mostly around the edges, but I would think that asking around
would turn up a solution.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Den
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 4:40 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Horsepower Resistor


I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: (unknown)

MERTON B BAKER
 

Yep, & we'll need telepathic powers to figure out what.
Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Mark Schwiebert
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 9:06 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)

Something is loose.

--- On Sun, 2/3/13, MERTON B BAKER wrote:

From: MERTON B BAKER
Subject: RE: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Date: Sunday, February 3, 2013, 12:08 AM

Same toolbit?

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From:
[mailto:]On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 5:04 PM
To:
Subject: [7x12minilathe] (unknown)

Hi I just set up a new micro- mark 7x16 mini lathe I also have a 7 x10
harbor freight mini lathe the micro- mark is chattering on me even on light
cuts if I use same setup on my harbor freight no chatter at all? Can someone
help me I have no idea why?

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

MERTON B BAKER
 

Swapping switches is a simple soldering job if you know how to work on circuit boards.� The TS camlocksI made for my 7x lathes work very well, and I'm sure the LMS ones will, too.� LMS is a very reliable bunch.
Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Exibar
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2013 12:05 AM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] tailstock Cam lock kit and F/O/R switch change

HI All!

������ I've been making some parts lately and have had some luck selling them as well.�� Enough to buy some new hop-ups for my 7x12 Cummings lathe :-)

My F/O/R switch is acting up, and I'm thinking that I'd rather have a rotary type switch instead of a toggle, like the one that's on the micromark 7x14... anyone make this swap?���� I'll probably just wind up going with a stock replacement, unless the swap is easy?

I'm also thinking about a Tailstock cam lock kit.�� I see LMS has them for $30...�� Does the cam lock kit rally get the tailstock clamped down tight enough so it doesn't move?�� will installing this kit throw off he alignment of the Tailstock?�� My TS is perfectly aligned right now, I really dont' want to go through that trouble again of lining it back up... or worse I really don't want it to be thrown out of alignment higher or lower :-(

thanks!

�� Mike B


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D
board.I
found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.

Just unsolder the old one from the board, Jaycar etc will sell you a new
resistor (5W IIRC) for under 50 cents.

Jaycar won't have the 0.025 ohm one, 0.022 will be their closest (5%
tolerance). Farnell or RS will sell you a 1% or 2% version if you really
need it. (I have my doubts they're 1% ones anyway.)

Tony


Re: Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools

MERTON B BAKER
 

I was lucky that way, having taken Machine tool Lab at tufts in order to
avoid flunking Math 2, and the first thing taught there was "How to grind
your own lathe toolbits." We were all given a #" long piece of 3/8" sq HRS,
& told to grind the same shape on each end as was shown in prints in the
textbook. With that accomplished, we were given a grade, (I got A) and a
1/4" HSS tool blank, told to make a real lathe tool, and never to complain
if it didn't cut well when we were using the lathes. I still have mine, and
used the same teaching method when, long afterward I was given the metal
shop class in the HS where I was teaching Physics, the regular shop teacher
having quit. Toolbit grinding is a basic skill for making things on engine
lathes like the 7xs. The size for which they are best adapted is the 8mm,
or 5/16" one. While it is true that ready formed toolbits are available,
they cost 5-10 times what the blanks do, and money is useful for many other
things. Those with an understanding of spatial relations plus a good 6"
grinder can easily pick up the skill to grind toolbits, and I have taught
many, many others, who lacked this talent, to be skilled toolbit grinders.
That, however, is another story, & "Mert's toolbit grinding course, with
text & visual aids" is available off list. Fair warning, it is not free.
I'm below the poverty line, despite having bought all my toys when I wasn't.

Mert

-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@...
[mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of
cptwinderatgmaildotcom
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2013 7:17 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Newb question about 1/8" cutting tools


When I purchased my lathe, I also purchased a few sets of cutting tools:





The first ones, the carbide, are completely junk. None of the angles are
correct. It is almost like the carbide was brazed on upside down.

I have had decent luck with the HSS cutters in the second set. However, they
are so small 1/8", you have to use the holders. The holders cause the cutter
tip to be a significant distance from the tool post decreasing rigidity.

Does anyone else use the tinny cutters and if so what holders do you use?

Thanks,

Jeremy



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

I'm reasonably familiar with KB's website, Den, having used it to find UK distributors.

If all else fails, you could make one up yourself. Ceramic cased, 0.1 ohm 10 watt wirewound resistors seem pretty readily available, and four of those in parallel would give you 0.025 ohms. They would handle 40W, which is probably an unecessarily high rating for the job, but there's no harm in that.

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Den Strods wrote:

That was quick.
Thanks for your effort, I will ring them in the morning.
Cheers


Re: Horsepower Resistor

Den Strods
 

That was quick.
Thanks for your effort, I will ring them in the morning.
Cheers


Re: Horsepower Resistor

 

The "dealer finder" on the KB Electronics website shows a single distributor in Australia:

Country/Area: Australia
City: Seven Hills, NSW
Name: ABB Australia Pty Limited
Phone: 02-9674-5455
Fax: 02-9674-2495
E-mail: sales.au@...
Web Site: www.Baldor.com.au
Product Line(s): AC & DC Drives
Stocking: This is a stocking distributor

Andy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Den" wrote:

I am trying to by a .025 plugin horsepower resistor for a KBCL-240D board.I found some on US ebay for $5 but postage to Australia is $26.
Is there some place that sells these with reasonable postage to Australia.
I have probably missed the obvious.
Cheers and thanks for your help.