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John, That might work for very short sections of pipe, as they'd need to be between centers.

Tom, The power and righty required for a given depth of cut and feed rate are dependent more on tool geometry than anything else. With the proper tool geometry you will be able to take a much heavier

In one of my lathe books there is a profile for a usable approximation of tapered pipe thread intended for single point cutting. Bear in mind that normal pipe thread has a helical leakage path and

My thought on this, is "Who needs a tapered thread?" My answer is "Pipefitters". When I was a pipefitter, I had a nice tripod vise and a set of pipe dies. I still have 'em, but haven't used 'em for 50

That is how it's done on the Unimat DB/SL, and the Sherline. Both types have a pin to realign the HS. On the 7xs, the top slide can be used to cut short tapers, and even long ones, If necessary. Mert

A pipe threading machine cuts rough taper threads, because that is all that is required to join pipes to fittings,it cuts fast and in one pass. A machine taper thread is a totally different animal. To

I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes? My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be

One of the advantages of the button head screws is that you can use a ball end Allen wrench in an electric screwdriver to provide power feeds for the top & cross slides. If you use your top slide to

You can certainly cut a taper that way, Chris, but the problem is how to cut a thread along that taper; that's when you need either CNC or a taper turning attachment to do a good job. Assuming the

Hi Mark, Discount Steel has a location just northwest of Fort Worth, Texas, where I have done business with them on several occasions by calling in orders and picking them up. They seem to be good

Take a look at their shipping charges for small quantities. Can easily double the cost. Gordon

thanks gerry, andy and ajawa, thats the part I was looking for, and it has all of the dimensions!

Has anyone in the group bought stuff from www.discountsteel.com? I was pricing some 6061 aluminum bar and they had the best price I've seen -- less than half the price of the competition. CRS bar

You can also use a protractor to adjust the compound to get VERY close. This one is CHEAP but surprisingly accurate. http://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-angle-finder-1028.html Chris

Most of the out of warranty problems are with the speed controls; it's usually just a matter of replacing the power MOSFETs, there are some exceptions. Some of the play in the handwheels is inherent

1. Yes, no problem if you listen to the machine to figure out a reasonable depth of cut. 2. No different than on any other engine lathe; the change gears for threading have to be installed manually -

No x 3! Drill rod comes in 3 common types; water, air & oil hardening. They're all basically high carbon steel with various other alloying elements that affect hardening & toughness. Here are some

You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine

Yes, I see it's gone now. But there are still lots of many different parts 3D modeled. There is a lot of different CNC models, routers, lathes, mills, etc. Some of the brackets/motors/parts are

See if these look like what you have: http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam4/cross_screw_mount.pdf DWG - ACAD2000: http://home.comcast.net/~ajawam4/cross_screw_mount.DWG You can get the 3D models from