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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
In one of my lathe books there is a profile for a usable approximation of
tapered pipe thread intended for single point cutting.
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Bear in mind that normal pipe thread has a helical leakage path and isn't expected to seal without pipe dope.? There is a variant called "dryseal" that is supposed to.? "Metric" pipe thread is based on British Standard pipe threads and is similar but not the same.? I've noticed that European boilers and suchlike often seem to come with straight threads intended to be sealed with threadlike stuff and jamb nuts. Alan At 07:16 AM 11/9/2012 -0500, you wrote: ? |
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
MERTON B BAKER
My thought on this, is "Who needs a tapered thread?" My answer is
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"Pipefitters". When I was a pipefitter, I had a nice tripod vise and a set of pipe dies. I still have 'em, but haven't used 'em for 50 years. Plumbing has advanced. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of john baird Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 7:02 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? A pipe threading machine cuts rough taper threads, because that is all that is required to join pipes to fittings,it cuts fast and in one pass. A machine taper thread is a totally different animal. To cut pipe threads in a lathe is not practical. 1- the pass through of the spindle bore 2- supporting and stabilising the free end of the pipe Regards jb --- On Thu, 8/11/12, andyf1108 <andyf.1108@...> wrote: --- In 7x12minilathe@..., ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
MERTON B BAKER
That is how it's done on the Unimat DB/SL, and the Sherline. Both types
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have a pin to realign the HS. On the 7xs, the top slide can be used to cut short tapers, and even long ones, If necessary. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of John Kiely Sent: Friday, November 09, 2012 6:46 AM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree as can be done on older lathes? My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads. It might be an awful pain to line it up again! Just a thought John Kiely From: Roy <roylowenthal@...> To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@...> wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
A pipe threading machine cuts rough taper threads, because that is all that is required to join pipes to fittings,it cuts fast and in one pass.
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A machine taper thread is a totally different animal. To cut pipe threads in a lathe is not practical. 1- the pass through of the spindle bore 2- supporting and stabilising the free end of the pipe Regards jb --- On Thu, 8/11/12, andyf1108 <andyf.1108@...> wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., |
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
I don't think I would recommend this but has anyone tried offsetting the headstock a fraction of a degree?as can be done on older lathes?
My little mini has it's cowl removed now and it would be feasible to angle your work to introduce a taper and then cut your threads.
It might be an awful pain to line? it up again!
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Just a thought
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John Kiely
From: Roy
To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Friday, November 9, 2012 2:59 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ? You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" wrote: > > I have seen a couple of articles on a taper turning attachment for a mini lathe. It appears the makers are using it primarily to make Morse taper shanks. Is this the only acceptable way to cut tapered (NPT) pipe threads ? If that is the case I would be better off to stick with machines that are designed to cut pipe threads, but I thought I would ask since the quality that comes out of most threading machines leaves something to be desired by machinists standards. Thanks ! > ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: ? ? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/7x12minilathe/ <*> Your email settings: ? ? Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: ? ? ? ? (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: ? ? 7x12minilathe-digest@... ? ? 7x12minilathe-fullfeatured@... <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: ? ? 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: ? ? http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ |
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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
MERTON B BAKER
One of the advantages of the button head screws is that you can use a ball
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end Allen wrench in an electric screwdriver to provide power feeds for the top & cross slides. If you use your top slide to make #2 & #4 Morse taper arbors much, it's a big convenience. I've drilled thru the protractor into the cross slide for a locating pin to make things easier. Even made a #3 to#2 adapter for the HS. Mert -----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@... [mailto:7x12minilathe@...]On Behalf Of Stefan Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2012 5:07 PM To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric) sorry friends, I was talking about this part tegory=5 --- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak <gerrywac@...> wrote: knucklebusters for obvious reasons. A button head screw is a good replacement but I just changed them for relatively easily obtainable normal hex head screws with the heads shaved down in the lathe to 1/16" or so
ry= >. ------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You can certainly cut a taper that way, Chris, but the problem is how to cut a thread along that taper; that's when you need either CNC or a taper turning attachment to do a good job. Assuming the thread starts at the thin end, something is needed to pull the cross slide steadily out during each cut, so the tool follows a line parallel to the side of the taper.
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Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., Chris Bailey <cbailey73160@...> wrote:
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Re: Online metal supplier
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Mark,Discount Steel has a location just northwest of Fort Worth, Texas, where I have done business with them on several occasions by calling in orders and picking them up. They seem to be good people and have always provided me with good service and reasonable prices. I have not done any mail order business with them though. Best regards, Tom On Nov 8, 2012, at 10:25 PM, "markkimball2000" <mark.kimball2@...> wrote: Has anyone in the group bought stuff from ? ?I was pricing some 6061 aluminum bar and they had the best price I've seen -- less than half the price of the competition. ?CRS bar pricing looked pretty good as well. ?They do have a cutting fee but even so they're way below most everyone else I've found. ?Just wondering if it's too good to be true.... |
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Re: Online metal supplier
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýTake a look at their shipping charges for small quantities. Can easily double the cost.Gordon On 08Nov2012, at 20:25 , "markkimball2000" <mark.kimball2@...> wrote:
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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
thanks gerry, andy and ajawa, thats the part I was looking for, and it has all of the dimensions!
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., WAM <ajawam2@...> wrote:
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Online metal supplier
Has anyone in the group bought stuff from www.discountsteel.com? I was pricing some 6061 aluminum bar and they had the best price I've seen -- less than half the price of the competition. CRS bar pricing looked pretty good as well. They do have a cutting fee but even so they're way below most everyone else I've found. Just wondering if it's too good to be true....
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
Chris Bailey
You can also use a protractor to adjust the compound to get VERY close. ?
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This one is CHEAP but surprisingly accurate. Chris On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 8:59 PM, Roy <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
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Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
Most of the out of warranty problems are with the speed controls; it's usually just a matter of replacing the power MOSFETs, there are some exceptions.
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Some of the play in the handwheels is inherent with anything that uses normal (as opposed to ball) screws. If there isn't some play, the screw can't rotate. Some of it can be eliminated/reduced; it's still up to the operator to retract farther than necessary & advance to take out the play before expecting dials to provide meaningful readings. You can buy Oilite bar stock, I don't know that it works out to be cheaper than buying bearings & modifying them. With a little google searching, it's probably possible to find the exact bushings you need, without having to machine them. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., HOGWINSLOW@... wrote:
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Re: Looking at buying the 7" x 10" w/ Questions
1. Yes, no problem if you listen to the machine to figure out a reasonable depth of cut.
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2. No different than on any other engine lathe; the change gears for threading have to be installed manually - higher end lathes have quick change gear boxes that don't require as much fiddling to change gears. 3. You'll want something other than the stock 3 jaw chuck to hold the bushings. The stock chuck doesn't usually hold things concentric; it's more a function of the chuck body not being too accurate than an inherent problem with self centering chucks. The easy fix is to machine a split sleeve that grips the OD of the bushings. As long as the sleeve is in the same position relative to the chuck as when it was bored to fit the bushings they'll be concentric. Reamers aren't happy opening a diameter by 1/8"; you'll need to drill to about 39/64" before reaming. You'll have to experiment, you may need to go 1/32" under on the drill size. You do realize that a nominal 5/8" rod isn't going to make a usable fit in a nominal 5/8" hole - somewhere, one of the dimensions needs to be a few thousandths different to make a running fit. 4. It's possible to do some light milling with a lathe; it's also possible to gargle peanut butter;-) If there's any other approach, it'll be more pleasant. Look at other vendors - most of them offer a 7x12, which is actually a 7x14 when it's measured from the face of the HS. That extra 4" makes a big difference when using real world drill bits held in the TS. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., HOGWINSLOW@... wrote:
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Re: Drill Rod
No x 3!
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Drill rod comes in 3 common types; water, air & oil hardening. They're all basically high carbon steel with various other alloying elements that affect hardening & toughness. Here are some descriptions: Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Exibar" <exibar@...> wrote:
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
You need a taper attachment to cut a truly accurate tapered thread. Considering their uses, that's almost an oxymoron! Without a taper attachment, the work-around is to cut a stepped thread & refine it into a tapered thread either by finishing it with a pipe die or lots of fiddling with thread files.
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Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@...> wrote:
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Re: Digest Number 5845
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýYes, I see it's gone now. But there are still lots of many different
parts 3D modeled. There is a lot of different CNC models, routers, lathes,
mills, etc. Some of the brackets/motors/parts are universal.
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Rich Gillen
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4aRe: CNC MINI LATHE 3D MODELTue Nov?6,?2012 7:33?am (PST) . Posted by:"WAM" ajawamnetThe
mini lathe 3D model I used for the basis of my mods is from Drew over at . It's well worth the $20.00 pay pal; saved me uncountless hours having to do it all myself. He did an amazing job. Nutz dead on (as well as you can get with the tolerances in CN manufacture) Someone loaded it up on Grabcad a while back but it got pulled since they didn't have the rights to it. It's a 7X10 but I was able to break it apart, stretch it, and and make a LMS sized 7x12.. He'll export it out of Solidworks in any format you need. I got the STEP even tho I own/use Solidworks. Lot less stuff in the feature tree... Armilite@aol. >Hello: > >New to this list. > >Something you may all be interested in, is a free 3D model on >_www.Grabcad. ? |
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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýSee if these look like what you have:DWG - ACAD2000: You can get the 3D models from gerry waclawiak wrote: Hi Stefan, bit of a misunderstanding there! That looks to be exactly the same as the one on my metric lathe. That has the "universal" 0.025mm/0.001" marking as well What dimensions is it you are looking for? Gerry W Leeds UK ________________________________To: 7x12minilathe@... From: stkovac@... Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 22:07:02 +0000 Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric) sorry friends, I was talking about this part --- In 7x12minilathe@..., gerry waclawiak wrote: > > > I did wonder what Stefan meant by this, many folk refer to them as knucklebusters for obvious reasons. A button head screw is a good replacement but I just changed them for relatively easily obtainable normal hex head screws with the heads shaved down in the lathe to 1/16" or so > > Gerry W > Leeds UK > > _______________________________ > > To: 7x12minilathe@... > > From: andyf.1108@... > > Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2012 18:16:39 +0000 > > Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric) > > > > > > > > > > Hi Stefan, > > > > This is the original part: > > < > > > > >. > > As you can see, it is a standard M5 socket capscrew, with a threaded > > section 8mm long. The modification is simply to replace it with a a > > similar screw, but with a domed or "button" head, so your fingers don't > > catch on it when using the cross slide. > > > > Andy > > > > --- In > > 7x12minilathe@..., > > "Stefan" wrote: > > > > > > Hello, > > > do any of you have drawing of this part, with metric dimensions of > > it? If you can please send it to me via email. > > > ATB > > > > > > > > > > |
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Re: Retainer, cross slide screw (metric)
Hi Stefan,
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bit of a misunderstanding there! That looks to be exactly the same as the one on my metric lathe. That has the "universal" 0.025mm/0.001" marking as well What dimensions is it you are looking for? Gerry W Leeds UK ________________________________ To: 7x12minilathe@... |
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Re: Pipe threading on a mini lathe ?
I think a taper turning attachment is the only practicable way, short of CNC, of getting the threading tool to follow the taper of the workpiece.
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I think the taper angle is 1/16" per inch measured across the diameter for all NPT threads, so the attachment could be constructed at a fixed angle of 1/32" per inch (measured accross the radius) only, without the complications involved in making it adjustable. Andy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "olduhfguy" <phbrush@...> wrote:
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gerry waclawiak
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