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FWIW .8mm Thread is really close to 32TPI. Don't think you'd be able to tell, unless you had a really long piece.

Hmmm - Interesting combination. I measured a 4mm screw at 0.155", so the diameter is right, but the thread is definitely 32 tpi, not the same as the 4mm screw. It's a skinny rod, so there's not enough

The carbide mills I use on our small CNC are made of bacteria sized powder that's been sintered. I don't know if any "solid" carbide is actually cast as one piece. -- Jerry Durand, Durand

Probably metric, M4x8 John

Welcome to made overseas. What I'd do in this case, is run the 8-32 tap in the holes and then tap the new spigots 8-32. I've run into this before. Fool around with some scrap first.. Mert

I need to shorten a couple of gun cleaning rods. Found that the thread was an odd one - 32 tpi (no problem with this) but the OD is 0.153, which falls between 6-32 and 8-32. Machinery's Handbook

my understanding is the material is actually a sintered combination of carbon and tungsten which forms tungsten-carbide particles. Machine tool cutters are formed by combining the particles with a

Mildly so. Not deafening, by a long shot. Just a moderate sound of air escaping. What surprised me was, in 1980 something, it only cost about $200. But, we had to install a refrigerated air dryer to

hilsch vortex cooler. holy smokes! Was it noisy? John B

Most carbide tools are high-temp BRAZED! I, too worked in a machine shop, and ordered many of the tools, including M-5 for some special jobs that could not be cooled with coolant. I, also, ordered,

"The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little pieces of carbide away & grind the binder." What binder? Carbide is a sintered material, which means that tiny pieces of carbide

A cheap alternative to a diamond wheel is the diamond knife sharpening blocks sold widely in places like harbor freight for 15$. They have a mix of grits, and are perfectly adequate for sharpening

I vote for 60, maybe 80 but not 120. I have a 120 and it's way too slow. Do any fine tuning with a diamond lap.

For bushings, particularly those carrying shafts that rotate at high speeds, I prefer to use Molyslip gearbox additive - straight from the can - rather than grease. This is quite a viscous fluid and

go diamond if you can. jb

The green wheels don't actually grind the carbide, they pull little pieces of carbide away & grind the binder. Roy

Without the slightest doubt. KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)

I believe we are in agreement here...aren't we? -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand

Whenever you use a grinder, you should use a particle mask. Even though many kinds of dust are non-toxic, over a long period, they can lead to lung disease, including cancer. Do as you like, but, be

Best to have two green wheels- one 60 or 80 for roughing, and, a 120 for fine finish. The 120 will work if you grind slow, so you don't burn the carbide. overheating carbide makes it brittle.