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Pretty much any dust is toxic in some way (may "only" be a severe irritant) so that's always good advice. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll

The low cost diamond wheels are typically about 4" resin bonded, meant for cutter grinders. See Shars or CTC Tools. You could make an adapter and use a 4" wheel on your present grinder, or rig

As long as you're happy that's all that matters. Good to hear that the supplier was eager to step up and take care of any problems you had.

Any recommendations? My grinder takes 6" x 3/4" wheels. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886 Skype: jerrydurand

I use 80-grit belts on my sander for HSS stuff and that seems to work fine (I'm not trying for super polished razor edges here). Being as carbide is so hard it *seems* that the finer grit would be ok

The consensus on green wheels for carbide is that they work but cause micro cracks leading to early failure of the edge. Better to use diamond -- diamond wheels are reasonably priced now and should

Dunno, myself, I just bought the ones HF sells with its tool grinder, and they've worked OK. They never said what the grit size was, but it's worked just fine for me. Mert

I'm thinking of getting a green wheel for my bench grinder for carbide cutters since I'm getting more of them. Which grit is the best for tool sharpening, I see Enco has them in 60, 80, and 120. I'm

I have a cheap red set as well. They cut so-so out of the box but work so much better after some time on the green wheel. They aren't total garbage.

This happened to me once. As I recall, all I did was remove the gear, remove the support pin from the banjo, and drive the pin out (gently). I would recommend putting the screw back in the hole so

Thanks to all for the replies. I did indeed get the bushing off using two screwdrivers. I cleaned it up a bit - just enough to keep me working - while i await the arrival of replacement parts. And I

Years ago, I kept getting the H.F. flyers with the ads for the 7X10 "Precision Lathe", for a price of $369.00, IIRC. I kept wondering just how good it could be for that sort of price. One day, I

2nd Merts opinion. Im in Barcelona, Spain., and paid about 400EUR for a 350 mm 7x14, maybe 7 years ago. Have about 0.006 mm TIR, which is very good, imo. Put a 125 mm 4-jay independent chuck on it,

Dunno what others experience, except for the complaints I read about here, but the experience I've had with the Chinese 7x lathes, one 7x10 from HF, One 7x12 from Homier (RB), and one 7x12 from

I have done quite a bit of thread cutting on my 7x14 MicroMark lathe and have not had any problems. Not sure I understand what part you're talking about. Pictures? Chuck in E. TN

I think it is really a matter of getting what one pays for and that it would be unfair to blame the supplier. It is generally understood that between the Chinese factory and the buyer the box get's

First remove the shaft assembly off the lathe. Now we limit the damage to the machine. (Don't ask how I learned this!) Place the shaft over a short pipe. I used a PVC cut-off that was 25 or 30 mm

Hi Paul, I've had exactly the same problem. I managed to tap the shaft out of the bush using a brass drift. I cleaned it up and it was usable again. The real problem is that it is a steel shaft

I had the same problem a few months ago. I had to use a drifter to get things apart. I cleaned up the parts and gave them the shaft a polish as it was scored. It looks like a lubrication problem so I

Sounds like a lot of problems right out of the box. Would you mind telling us where you purchased this lathe from? It might help other in deciding where they purchase their first lathe from. Many