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<markzemanek@...> wrote: On the subject of stability, I don't recommend the Sieg setup. My manual said it was preferred to bolt to the bench but they also supplied rubber feet and bolts for free

Hi FRI, If you can get the wench to pick up your socks & jocks, you're doing above average. No way mine's likely to clean up chips and curly metal swarf too! Many remove the rear splash guard for

Where are you going to be using your lathe? NOT in the kitchen, I hope! <g> Seriously though, you're likely to have swarf everywhere, and it's a good idea to have a spaced devoted to metalworking. My

put a round bar in the tool post since it is quick and most of the time I am just putting the final contours on the piece being worked on. Here is a photo: http://www.firechat.com/WOODREST.JPG In

Here in the USA you can buy alum in the spice section of grocery stores. It works because it's an acid that attacks the steel but doesn't harm the aluminum. In horological school we used it all the

John wrote......Get the length right. Cut it too short and you'll have problems ejecting the arbor....... It is not too difficult to braze a small piece of metal on the end to make up the difference

Hello all, I have been lerking on the group for about a month now this is my first post. I have a HF 7X10 mini and a Grizzly Mini Mill and my main interest is building model steam engines. However my

Several of my MT-2s that I shortened a little too aggressively have a aluminium disc epoxied to the end to make them eject. I used one of those "cold weld" type super epoxies but I'm sure anything

hi all I'm a cliff dweller and have a 7x12 on order. I think I must construct some sort of enclosure to contain the fly-offs. (have to get along with the lady that cleans up) anyone got a design, or

Hello. Took me about 2 hours!! Good exercise? Removed the tang and about 5mm of main body. Paul

It only took me about 2mins to cut of the tang. I used a thin 41/2" metal cutting disc that I bought from machine mart. Lots of sparks but it cut it easily. John wrote: vice wrote: on the blunted

Yes, John, you have. But in a good way. It will save me a 2nd order later. Thanks to others for your input. I've added: 2644 Clamps for the faceplate 1222 Chuck studs & nuts 1655 Oil fittings 1773

Mine is marked L - O - R I sort of figured that to mean Left, Off, Right. I dunno? Been wrong before. Ed B be

Anyone know of any coupons currently aplicable for LMS?

Well that confirms a mystery for me! The other thing that puzzled me was that the "Forward" and "Reverse" label on the power switch is backwards. I sort of *thought* the tool cutting edge was supposed

Hi All. Have just used a hacksaw for shortening an Arbor. Held it in the vice using the Tang then used six junior hacksaw blades and a lot of effort!. Used a junior hacksaw as I had plenty of them in

by the way broked centre drills can be converted into nice flat bottom drills by grinding the tip square and putting a bit of relief on the citting edges Gerry Leeds UK

Vicki Ford has a piece on doing this (with photo) on her website. Don't know the link straight off but it is in the links section of www.mini-lathe.com along with some other neat stuff. Gerry leeds UK

Hi Ken, Someone (possibly on this forum) had a neat idea after breaking the tip of a centre drill. They re-ground the thicker remaining stub to gouge AROUND the broke small tip. This allowed access to

Hi John, Some have used a Dremel. I used an angle grinder and cleaned up on the bench grinder. Yes, it's hard. I initially tried a hacksaw but blunted it rather quickly. Get the length right. Cut it