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Usually, you sort of match the knurl to the work diameter; little things with coarse knurling look odd. On the 7xX, the machine isn't rigid enough to be happy with a fixed knurling tool; the scissor

Hi, Just a suggestion. For making plastic handles on shafts I turn a few grooves (for axial keying), grind a couple of flats (for rotational keying) and then cast the handle with fibre glassing resin

Hi Chris, I assume we're talking a Sieg 7x here? I just measured my Sieg steadies (I have fixed and moving) at 1-1/2". I think you'll need to fabricate your own. You'll need a pretty stout structure.

Hi Rance, I'm running a 7x12 so can't give specific models. However, I could not conceive of having a lathe without both 3-jaw (scroll) and a 4-jaw (independent) chucks. My machine came standard with

Hi Veni, Did you include a pic or attachment with your post or am I missing something? Pics and attachments aren't supported by this forum's messages. John <veniaver2006@...> wrote:

Hi Rance, I bought both HSS and a set of carbide tools. I work mainly with steel (and stainless). Later I read that carbide is a bit of a pain on these small lathes as it's prone to digging in,

Hi Rance, Gerry, The other snippet I picked up somewhere in my reading is that you shouldn't be too timid when starting the knurl. As the initial imprints come around again the knurl teeth need to

Trevor, Now I'm very glad you posted that link. I went out to Busy Bee this afternoon, and they had a chuck that looked just like the one you pictured except it had a JT-6 taper for $17. I just

Hi Chris, I have never tried this but perhaps you could make a loose plug attached to a spindle. Insert the spindle into the tailstoch chuck. Lubricate the plug with silicone or washing up liquid (

wrote: steadies but good Just for reference, I've maxed out my SIEG steady (courtesy of LMS) at just over 1.5". I had to put the fingers in backwards, trim the prism until the steady was well leveled,

Engineman has a nice steadyrest that looks like it could be built to handle quite large diameters, see(near the bottom of the page): http://users.eastlink.ca/~jbentley/workshop.html John

THEORETICALLY if the microwave hasn't been used for a while, the capacitor MIGHT not have a charge on it as many units have a bleeder resistor across them. BUT, capacitors will charge up from static

It is surprisingly difficult to get any info on the capacity of steadies but according to littlemachineshop.com the one for the min-lathe is only good for 1" so not a lot of good for you. I honestly

The standard minilathe chuck is an 80mm (just over 3") three jaw and I suspect that your 8x14 will come equipped with a 3 jaw of similar or slightly bigger size as standard, maybe a 4". Some of the 8

Chris, Yea, about 1" is right. I had the same problem, I had to bite the bullet and make a steadyrest. I will post a picture in the photos section under steadrest. It is a fairly easy project if you

Hi, Based on an article in Model Engineers Workshop I created this spread sheet which figures out the correct OD of what you want to knurl so that the knurl works out.

I machine UHMW with no issues, a bit stringy though

wrote: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1212&category= Trevor, Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately, the Get-It-To-My-Door price of that chuck works out to be a

About PVC: Yes, I used to make oodles of parts from it and it wore tools worse than anything. Even to the point that when making a high quantity of parts I could easily learn how much extra to turn

I'm not clear on what exactly you're comparing with HSS and Carbide tools. A say 3/8" HSS blank costs about $2.00 and can be finished on both sides, effectively making it two tools. A cheapy brazed