Which taper attachment did you make?
The motor enclosure can be modified to clear the carriage & an
extension shaft made for the handwheel to allow the carriage to
travel closer to the HS. When I made a chuck mounting plate from a
barbell weight, I bolted it directly to the spindle & used tool
protrusion & the compound to reach. Chatter was less of a problem
than I'd expected.
For both rigidity & work length, I'd keep collet protrusion as
short as possible. The Loctite should work fine, degrease the
threads thoroughly first; brake cleaner works well. Even if it comes
loose, it'll be annoying, not catastrophic.
Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:
In looking for projects which involve my recently completed taper
fixture, I have decided on a 3C collet chuck to fit the MT3 on the
minilathe -- this based on reading pdf files on the net.
As a newbie I immediately began making chips rather than carefully
planning how the chuck would be used. Now that I've made the taper
and have started working on the chuck itself, a number of questions
have arisen.
The pdf articles assume that the tool can be positioned right up to
the chuck backplate. The minilathe seems to expect the chuck to be
used for all workholding; when positioning more toward the
headstock
(as when using the collet chuck) the rear of the carriage contacts
the motor enclosure and the carriage handle contacts the
electronics
enclosure, this when the tool is about an inch from the backplate.
Greater overhang of the compound is one possibility for improvment
but I am concerned that this will increase tool chatter.
Should I make the socket so the end of the collet will be an inch
or
so from the backplate? My understanding of collets is that they
work
well partly because they are closer to the headstock - will this
extended collet chuck make my setup less useful?
For the closer my current plan is to turn and thread a short piece
to
fit the thread on the 3C and then thread/loctite this to a piece of
pipe and add a collar and handle to allow tightening. (The reason
I
don't plan to thread the pipe itself is that I get a poor finish on
some steel so I plan to use steel which takes a good finish for
contact with the collets.) Is this a reasonable plan? Will the
loctite stand up to this use?
John
