Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
Bill,? That caused me a good chuckle. I may find an old banana seat off a bicycle. :) Actually, as old as I'm getting, maybe an old man bike seat....? Thanks Darren?
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?
Do a bit of tweaking, and see whatcha got. Can’t get enough….may have to do a bit of a mod (grinder) so you can get there.
FYI, my saw, doing nothing, the blade will generally ride on the idler, but be 1/16” to 1/8” of the shoulder of the drive wheel. The edge of the blade also misses the vertical
guide bearing at the drive wheel end by the same gap. Soon as I hit a piece I’m cutting, even slightly, it’s where it should be.
Been that way since I got it. No problem with performance. I don’t worry about it.
When blades start poinking off….then I do something.
?
I saw some pics some years ago, where a guy made a mount for a motorcycle seat, to cut with his saw in the vertical position. He had the same problem you are talking about. Hard
to stay steady & cut, when your standing over a saw in an awkward position.
Clever, and different, solution.
You have an old Lay-Z-Boy chair around? The “Lay-Z-Saw”.
(I like it!)
;)
Bill
?
?
?
Bill/Ralph,
Yeah, more idler adjustment. Fun times. Main problem is that I think I'm out of adjustment on the idler. Need to play with it a lot more.
The table should be easy enough to fan up. I have some old bed rails that are nearly worthless steel. (Very hard, multiple holes, etc) However, they were dumpster dives so I'll take em! :) Some cutting, a bit of welding, and then MAYBE
I'll get lucky and find an old saw table to use as a miter table/guide. Or, perhaps some 16 guage aluminum and some rivets. (Would rather not use anything protruding from the table top.) Biggest down side I can see so far.... I have to straddle the saw. Not
the worst thing and I'd rather not have to buy a dedicated vertical saw.
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
The wheels are handy. I’d keep ‘em. Nice to be able to move the saw around, if for nothing else, to sweep under it, or when you rearrange the shop, or bring in new toys.
?
Only makes sense for me to buy metals in full length pieces or sheets. I can buy steel from the local supplier, cheap, and the freight is literally pennies. Have to buy full pieces however, and pick it up a couple miles down the
road since 18-wheelers won’t fit in here. No big deal. A 20’ piece costs less than buying a 6’ piece from online places when you add in the UPS costs. And….they deliver twice a week. Freight on the steel in the pic was $1.75. It’s actually a ‘fuel surcharge’
they divide up to all the customers on the drivers route.
And besides….sometimes it’s just nice to work outdoors!
?
Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of the idler wheel, to keep the blade on track. Minor tweak.
I like that big table.. I built a little one for my 5” x 6”….only 12” x 12”. Don’t use it often, so I haven’t thought about making a larger one.
?
Bill
?
?
?
I thought about those, as well as using something like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says I'm hard headed. I prefer to think of myself as
always looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small, compared to 20" steel.?
One big down side that I've come to realize is that the blade runs away from the drive wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use. However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive wheel. Time to start
tweaking it again so I can have a vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've found this homemade stand with the same model.?
At what point do o consider the turd sufficiently polished?
Thanks for the conversation, you help my thinking process and stir my imagination.
Darren
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
?
On Dec 30, 2018 3:55 AM, "khintegration@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in use but when loading stock.
Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
?
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
Do a bit of tweaking, and see whatcha got. Can’t get enough….may have to do a bit of a mod (grinder) so you can get there.
FYI, my saw, doing nothing, the blade will generally ride on the idler, but be 1/16” to 1/8” of the shoulder of the drive wheel. The edge of the blade also misses the vertical
guide bearing at the drive wheel end by the same gap. Soon as I hit a piece I’m cutting, even slightly, it’s where it should be.
Been that way since I got it. No problem with performance. I don’t worry about it.
When blades start poinking off….then I do something.
?
I saw some pics some years ago, where a guy made a mount for a motorcycle seat, to cut with his saw in the vertical position. He had the same problem you are talking about. Hard
to stay steady & cut, when your standing over a saw in an awkward position.
Clever, and different, solution.
You have an old Lay-Z-Boy chair around? The “Lay-Z-Saw”.
(I like it!)
;)
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2018 12:38 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
?
?
Bill/Ralph,
Yeah, more idler adjustment. Fun times. Main problem is that I think I'm out of adjustment on the idler. Need to play with it a lot more.
The table should be easy enough to fan up. I have some old bed rails that are nearly worthless steel. (Very hard, multiple holes, etc) However, they were dumpster dives so I'll take em! :) Some cutting, a bit of welding, and then MAYBE
I'll get lucky and find an old saw table to use as a miter table/guide. Or, perhaps some 16 guage aluminum and some rivets. (Would rather not use anything protruding from the table top.) Biggest down side I can see so far.... I have to straddle the saw. Not
the worst thing and I'd rather not have to buy a dedicated vertical saw.
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
The wheels are handy. I’d keep ‘em. Nice to be able to move the saw around, if for nothing else, to sweep under it, or when you rearrange the shop, or bring in new toys.
?
Only makes sense for me to buy metals in full length pieces or sheets. I can buy steel from the local supplier, cheap, and the freight is literally pennies. Have to buy full pieces however, and pick it up a couple miles down the
road since 18-wheelers won’t fit in here. No big deal. A 20’ piece costs less than buying a 6’ piece from online places when you add in the UPS costs. And….they deliver twice a week. Freight on the steel in the pic was $1.75. It’s actually a ‘fuel surcharge’
they divide up to all the customers on the drivers route.
And besides….sometimes it’s just nice to work outdoors!
?
Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of the idler wheel, to keep the blade on track. Minor tweak.
I like that big table.. I built a little one for my 5” x 6”….only 12” x 12”. Don’t use it often, so I haven’t thought about making a larger one.
?
Bill
?
?
?
I thought about those, as well as using something like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says I'm hard headed. I prefer to think of myself as
always looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small, compared to 20" steel.?
One big down side that I've come to realize is that the blade runs away from the drive wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use. However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive wheel. Time to start
tweaking it again so I can have a vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've found this homemade stand with the same model.?
At what point do o consider the turd sufficiently polished?
Thanks for the conversation, you help my thinking process and stir my imagination.
Darren
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
?
On Dec 30, 2018 3:55 AM, "khintegration@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in use but when loading stock.
Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
?
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
??? ??? ya may think bout swapin that motor with a single
direction motor & put the directional motor on a piece of
equipment that could take advantage of the reverse option
??? ??? animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
I thought about those, as well as using something
like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple
coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come
to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says
I'm hard headed. I prefer to think of myself as always
looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm
just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the
wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small,
compared to 20" steel.?
One big down side that I've come to
realize is that the blade runs away from the drive
wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use.
However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in
reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive
wheel. Time to start tweaking it again so I can have a
vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've
found this homemade stand with the same model.?
At what point do o consider the turd
sufficiently polished?
Thanks for the conversation, you help my
thinking process and stir my imagination.
Happy New Year!
Darren
?
A couple
of rubber feet work well, which is
what my saw came with.
It has a
slide out handle, so it can be moved
around like a wheel barrow.
I use it
out in front of my shop on the
concrete often, as 20’ pieces of
steel are difficult to maneuver
inside.
Being
level....is not at all required.
_
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection [1 Attachment]
Bill/Ralph, Yeah, more idler adjustment. Fun times. Main problem is that I think I'm out of adjustment on the idler. Need to play with it a lot more. The table should be easy enough to fan up. I have some old bed rails that are nearly worthless steel. (Very hard, multiple holes, etc) However, they were dumpster dives so I'll take em! :) Some cutting, a bit of welding, and then MAYBE I'll get lucky and find an old saw table to use as a miter table/guide. Or, perhaps some 16 guage aluminum and some rivets. (Would rather not use anything protruding from the table top.) Biggest down side I can see so far.... I have to straddle the saw. Not the worst thing and I'd rather not have to buy a dedicated vertical saw. Thanks Darren
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
The wheels are handy. I’d keep ‘em. Nice to be able to move the saw around, if for nothing else, to sweep under it, or when you rearrange the shop, or bring in new toys.
?
Only makes sense for me to buy metals in full length pieces or sheets. I can buy steel from the local supplier, cheap, and the freight is literally pennies. Have to buy full pieces
however, and pick it up a couple miles down the road since 18-wheelers won’t fit in here. No big deal. A 20’ piece costs less than buying a 6’ piece from online places when you add in the UPS costs. And….they deliver twice a week. Freight on the steel in the
pic was $1.75. It’s actually a ‘fuel surcharge’ they divide up to all the customers on the drivers route.
And besides….sometimes it’s just nice to work outdoors!
?
Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of the idler wheel, to keep the blade on track. Minor tweak.
I like that big table. I built a little one for my 5” x 6”….only 12” x 12”. Don’t use it often, so I haven’t thought about making a larger one.
?
Bill
?
?
?
I thought about those, as well as using something like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says I'm hard headed. I prefer
to think of myself as always looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small, compared to 20" steel.?
One big down side that I've come to realize is that the blade runs away from the drive wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use. However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive
wheel. Time to start tweaking it again so I can have a vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've found this homemade stand with the same model.?
At what point do o consider the turd sufficiently polished?
Thanks for the conversation, you help my thinking process and stir my imagination.
Darren
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off
the left side wheels.
?
On Dec 30, 2018 3:55 AM, "khintegration@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...>
wrote:
?
That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in
use but when loading stock.
Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
?
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
The wheels are handy. I’d keep ‘em. Nice to be able to move the saw around, if for nothing else, to sweep under it, or when you rearrange the shop, or bring in new toys.
?
Only makes sense for me to buy metals in full length pieces or sheets. I can buy steel from the local supplier, cheap, and the freight is literally pennies. Have to buy full pieces
however, and pick it up a couple miles down the road since 18-wheelers won’t fit in here. No big deal. A 20’ piece costs less than buying a 6’ piece from online places when you add in the UPS costs. And….they deliver twice a week. Freight on the steel in the
pic was $1.75. It’s actually a ‘fuel surcharge’ they divide up to all the customers on the drivers route.
And besides….sometimes it’s just nice to work outdoors!
?
Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of the idler wheel, to keep the blade on track. Minor tweak.
I like that big table. I built a little one for my 5” x 6”….only 12” x 12”. Don’t use it often, so I haven’t thought about making a larger one.
?
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2018 11:29 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
?
?
I thought about those, as well as using something like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says I'm hard headed. I prefer
to think of myself as always looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small, compared to 20" steel.?
One big down side that I've come to realize is that the blade runs away from the drive wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use. However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive
wheel. Time to start tweaking it again so I can have a vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've found this homemade stand with the same model.?
At what point do o consider the turd sufficiently polished?
Thanks for the conversation, you help my thinking process and stir my imagination.
Darren
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off
the left side wheels.
?
On Dec 30, 2018 3:55 AM, "khintegration@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...>
wrote:
?
That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in
use but when loading stock.
Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
?
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
I like that table, a lot better than the one I have for my 7x12!
Ralph
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Shoot, forgot the image of the saw in vertical mode.
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
Shoot, forgot the image of the saw in vertical mode.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
I thought about those, as well as using something like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says I'm hard headed. I prefer to think of myself as always looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small, compared to 20" steel.? One big down side that I've come to realize is that the blade runs away from the drive wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use. However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive wheel. Time to start tweaking it again so I can have a vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've found this homemade stand with the same model.? At what point do o consider the turd sufficiently polished? Thanks for the conversation, you help my thinking process and stir my imagination. Happy New Year! Darren
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20’ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... on behalf of Darren McCarley darren.mccarley@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2018 7:19 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
?
?
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 30, 2018 3:55 AM, " khintegration@... [4x6bandsaw]" < 4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in use but when loading stock. Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in use but when loading stock. Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
Thanks J and Bill! ?Sorry if there were duplicate emails. I had to cut the pics down to just 2 because I kept getting a "too big" error.? Darren
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?
Nice work Darren!
That’s now a good looking saw, and it’s a US built tool.
It will no doubt serve you well! Of all the tools in my shop, my band saw is used more than any. It’s almost always the place I have to start, to cut pieces of stock to build
things.
When you get your lathe, here’s a good project: A power down hydraulic cylinder for your saw.
They make life easier when you cut small parts & pieces, and thin-wall tubing….you don’t have to control the down speed manually with one, which saves on not only terrorizing
parts, but blades as well.
?
Very Nice!
Bill
?
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Well, it's finally finished. Tha is to all of your help but special thanks to JV and Bill. With all of y'all's help it looks great, functions smoothly, and was a fun refurb. Time to find a new project. I will be getting an old Wade 8a lathe
soon. Time to put the saw to work cutting some stock to use in the lathe. :)
Note: I'll be finishing up a doc on the parts, pieces, and sources. Once completed,? I'll upload it here. Hopefully it helps someone in the future.?
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection [2 Attachments]
Nice work Darren!
That’s now a good looking saw, and it’s a US built tool.
It will no doubt serve you well! Of all the tools in my shop, my band saw is used more than any. It’s almost always the place I have to start, to cut pieces of stock to build
things.
When you get your lathe, here’s a good project: A power down hydraulic cylinder for your saw.
They make life easier when you cut small parts & pieces, and thin-wall tubing….you don’t have to control the down speed manually with one, which saves on not only terrorizing
parts, but blades as well.
?
Very Nice!
Bill
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2018 4:12 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection [2 Attachments]
?
?
[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Well, it's finally finished. Tha is to all of your help but special thanks to JV and Bill. With all of y'all's help it looks great, functions smoothly, and was a fun refurb. Time to find a new project. I will be getting an old Wade 8a lathe
soon. Time to put the saw to work cutting some stock to use in the lathe. :)
Note: I'll be finishing up a doc on the parts, pieces, and sources. Once completed,? I'll upload it here. Hopefully it helps someone in the future.?
|
Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
|
OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
Well, it's finally finished. Tha is to all of your help but special thanks to JV and Bill. With all of y'all's help it looks great, functions smoothly, and was a fun refurb. Time to find a new project. I will be getting an old Wade 8a lathe soon. Time to put the saw to work cutting some stock to use in the lathe. :) Note: I'll be finishing up a doc on the parts, pieces, and sources. Once completed,? I'll upload it here. Hopefully it helps someone in the future.? Cheers! Darren
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
I’ve seen Tempilaq on Brownell’s, but I have never used any.
I do have some temp sticks, which work the same way. Smear on a dab or a line, and it will melt when you are up to temp. Great for preheating for welding, annealing, or heat treating. I assume the Tempilaq would work as well or
better. Lot more expensive, so I wuld hope it’s better! ;)
I’ve been using an infrared gun instead, for quite a few years.
It is true that different materials will read different temps when at the same temp. How shiny it is makes a big difference. So does paint. A polished stainless steel surface will read much lower than a piece of AR plate.
So....in some cases, the old contact thermocouple is best for accuracy.
Bill
?
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From: 4x6bandsaw@... on behalf of zalupski@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 5:59 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
?
?
Darren, congratulations on your progress. Folks here might be interested in a product called Tempilaq which when dabbed onto an item will indicate when the item has reached a desired temperature. You order it according to specific heat ranges. Not cheap at
$34 for 2 oz. but useful for some applications. I'd read of it's use in annealing brass. Also useful are inexpensive digital thermometers that take a variety of K-type thermocouples or even non-contact thermometers although I recently learned a painful lesson
that one must calibrate these for the emissivity factor of the item being measured. I'll admit to Bill that I am often guilty of overthinking but for me all of this is a hobby and learning is the fun.
With regards,
Fred
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Darren, congratulations on your progress. Folks here might be interested in a product called Tempilaq which when dabbed onto an item will indicate when the item has reached a desired temperature. You order it according to specific heat ranges. Not cheap at $34 for 2 oz. but useful for some applications. I'd read of it's use in annealing brass. Also useful are inexpensive digital thermometers that take a variety of K-type thermocouples or even non-contact thermometers although I recently learned a painful lesson that one must calibrate these for the emissivity factor of the item being measured. I'll admit to Bill that I am often guilty of overthinking but for me all of this is a hobby and learning is the fun. With regards, Fred
|
Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Charlie,
?
I really don’t see you having any issue with the bearings you installed. Six years shows that to be true!
I don’t see how 350F would alter a bearing metallurgy of a bearing.
I’m just pointing out what the bearing nerds recommend, and that radical high temps are not necessary. Correct bearing fits, aside from plain bearings, are measured in tenths,
(.0001”), so it doesn’t take much. ?
?
Bill
?
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From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 4:21 AM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
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Hello, Bill,
I am certainly no bearing expert, so I defer to your expertise and experience.
My goal was only to relate what I had done and what worked well for me.? As tapered roller bearings do not have shields, seals or internal lubrication, (at least, the ones I installed didn't), any overheating issues would manifest in a
metallurgical issue.? Fortunately, this has not happened in the six or so years since their installation.
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Re: Bainbridge blade guides
Hello, Bill,
I am certainly no bearing expert, so I defer to your expertise and experience.
My goal was only to relate what I had done and what worked well for me.? As tapered roller bearings do not have shields, seals or internal lubrication, (at least, the ones I installed didn't), any overheating issues would manifest in a metallurgical issue.? Fortunately, this has not happened in the six or so years since their installation.
Thanks, Charlie
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Don't feel bad.? One time I had my chainsaw serviced by the
dealer.? When I took it out to do some trimming, it was cutting
horribly.? So bad that I commented to myself that it was bad
enough that it might as well be cutting backward.? Yep!? Sure
enough, the shop had installed the chain backward!
If you rotate your bandsaw blade 180 degrees into the loop and
install it, it will be cutting backward.?
Ken
On 12/19/18 4:39 PM,
krs62@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
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You guys were right.? It was flipped inside out.? I flipped it in
and the teeth are running the right way.? I am still confused on
how that reverses it, but hey it worked!? Thanks!? Kris
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