Do a bit of tweaking, and see whatcha got. Can¡¯t get enough¡.may have to do a bit of a mod (grinder) so you can get there.
FYI, my saw, doing nothing, the blade will generally ride on the idler, but be 1/16¡± to 1/8¡± of the shoulder of the drive wheel. The edge of the blade also misses the vertical
guide bearing at the drive wheel end by the same gap. Soon as I hit a piece I¡¯m cutting, even slightly, it¡¯s where it should be.
Been that way since I got it. No problem with performance. I don¡¯t worry about it.
When blades start poinking off¡.then I do something.
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I saw some pics some years ago, where a guy made a mount for a motorcycle seat, to cut with his saw in the vertical position. He had the same problem you are talking about. Hard
to stay steady & cut, when your standing over a saw in an awkward position.
Clever, and different, solution.
You have an old Lay-Z-Boy chair around? The ¡°Lay-Z-Saw¡±.
(I like it!)
;)
Bill
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From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2018 12:38 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: OT: Bainbridge 712 resurrection
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Bill/Ralph,
Yeah, more idler adjustment. Fun times. Main problem is that I think I'm out of adjustment on the idler. Need to play with it a lot more.
The table should be easy enough to fan up. I have some old bed rails that are nearly worthless steel. (Very hard, multiple holes, etc) However, they were dumpster dives so I'll take em! :) Some cutting, a bit of welding, and then MAYBE
I'll get lucky and find an old saw table to use as a miter table/guide. Or, perhaps some 16 guage aluminum and some rivets. (Would rather not use anything protruding from the table top.) Biggest down side I can see so far.... I have to straddle the saw. Not
the worst thing and I'd rather not have to buy a dedicated vertical saw.
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[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
The wheels are handy. I¡¯d keep ¡®em. Nice to be able to move the saw around, if for nothing else, to sweep under it, or when you rearrange the shop, or bring in new toys.
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Only makes sense for me to buy metals in full length pieces or sheets. I can buy steel from the local supplier, cheap, and the freight is literally pennies. Have to buy full pieces however, and pick it up a couple miles down the
road since 18-wheelers won¡¯t fit in here. No big deal. A 20¡¯ piece costs less than buying a 6¡¯ piece from online places when you add in the UPS costs. And¡.they deliver twice a week. Freight on the steel in the pic was $1.75. It¡¯s actually a ¡®fuel surcharge¡¯
they divide up to all the customers on the drivers route.
And besides¡.sometimes it¡¯s just nice to work outdoors!
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Sounds like you need to adjust the angle of the idler wheel, to keep the blade on track. Minor tweak.
I like that big table.. I built a little one for my 5¡± x 6¡±¡.only 12¡± x 12¡±. Don¡¯t use it often, so I haven¡¯t thought about making a larger one.
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Bill
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I thought about those, as well as using something like flex seal as just a rubber coating. (Multiple coats, as necessary.) However, as you've probably come to realize, I don't do the easy stuff. :) my wife says I'm hard headed. I prefer to think of myself as
always looking for a challenge. Honestly, at this point, I'm just looking forward to using the saw and chuck the wheels, if I have too. My stock will be quite small, compared to 20" steel.?
One big down side that I've come to realize is that the blade runs away from the drive wheel. Therefore not conducive for vertical use. However, the motor is reversible. I've tried it in reverse and the blade immediately runs off the drive wheel. Time to start
tweaking it again so I can have a vertical saw. I believe this can be accomplished as I've found this homemade stand with the same model.?
At what point do o consider the turd sufficiently polished?
Thanks for the conversation, you help my thinking process and stir my imagination.
Darren
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A couple of rubber feet work well, which is what my saw came with.
It has a slide out handle, so it can be moved around like a wheel barrow.
I use it out in front of my shop on the concrete often, as 20¡¯ pieces of steel are difficult to maneuver inside.
Being level....is not at all required.
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Thanks K. I was concerned about that as well. However, that's how I got it so I assumed it was factory installed. If it is a problem I'll either buy some locking casters, fab up some screw jacks, or just take off the left side wheels.
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On Dec 30, 2018 3:55 AM, "khintegration@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
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That looks great, I am wondering how you will get on with it having two sets of wheels in contact with the ground whilst it is in use, I would be concerned that it would try making off across the garage if not in use but when loading stock.
Let us all know how you find it after giving it a bit of use.
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