Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed [1 Attachment]
??? ??? Hey JV ,tks for goin that xtra mile with yer sketch ,
that's the way I was thinkin but that damn snap-ring w2as screwin
thing's up ,I couldnt get enough shaft out to filly mount the
drive pulley. after a few different?
??? ??? combinations & went with blade pulley, small spacer ,
retaining plate, seal, bearing,bearing spacer, bearing Y then
drive gear . I think one of my problems was that I quit drinkin @
8 years back , in the olden days
??? ??? with some thinkin grease I would have figured it out much
faster , so It is assembled minus the cover plate while I think
bout it some & look for a hunk of lexan to make a clear cover
out of . tks again for the drawing
??? ??? we should make sure it stay's in the file's section .
will report back after I run under power?
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
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?
Whoa guys, Mike still needs help with his original
question.
Lets think this through as to how it could be
assembled.
The bearings should be flush with either side of the
gearbox casting, i.e. spaced as far apart as they can go
for best support of the output shaft (to stop it bending
under the load of the worm drive or the tension in the
sawblade).
Next the brass gear needs to be held in a fixed
relationship to the worm on the gearbox input shaft.? That
means somewhere in the system the brass gear & shaft?
has to be stopped from moving axially in the gearbox
casting.?With your
output shaft having a circlip roughly in the middle of
it, I'm picking that it goes in the inside of the
bearing closest to the sawband drive wheel. With bearing
retainer ring on the other side of the same bearing, the
brass gear + shaft is locked in position into the
gearbox cast ing.??
I think the spacer (2nd from left top row in yr pic) is
in between the sawband drive wheel and the inner of
the? that bearing (not the bearing retainer, it's too big
ID to bear on the spacer).? My saw has one here, as do
others.??Its a loose
fit on the shaft and spaces the drive wheel off the
adjacent bearing.
The only thing left
is to seal in the oil (std bearings are 6202 Z with one
shield which won't stop oil leaking through).? 6202 2RS
bearing have 2 rubber seals but even these are not meant
to seal in oil, so there has to be a lip seal between
the bearing (normally 35mmOD x 15mmID x 7mmW lip seal)
Lastly the bearing
outers need to be spaced apart so they are in proper
relationship to each other and that will be the big
diameter spacer (in the middle of yr pic)
Crude drawing
attached.
My RF clone saw has
this arrangement of spacers, bearings and seal but
without the circlip on the shaft and relies on friction
of bearings on the shaft and housing to stop axial
movement of brass gear.?
If the above is the
way to assemble your G/box (I'm really just guessing
from what is there), then the spacer between the
bandwheel and the bearing next to it is not necessary,
as the key and grubscrew will hold the bandwheel in
position on the shaft and the shaft can't move axially
either because of the bearing retainer ring and the
circlip.?
Think about the order of assembly. You must not push or
bang on a bearings inner race to seat the outer race.? The
pro's like to push an assembled shaft and its bearings
into the housing as a unit, but they have presses and ji
gs to do it.? If you can do it that way,?
Otherwise you can assemble bit by bit, but only if the
shaft is a sliding fit in the bearing inners (it can be
with your setup and still have positive locking of the
shaft in axial position, so you could sand the shaft down
with a strip of 400G wet&dry paper until they do just
slide in).? Tap in the bearing that's next to the
bandwheel first with a big 1/2" drive socket against its
outer race, making it flush with edge of the casting, then
slide in the shaft + circlip from the gearbox side, then
the bearing OD spacer and push in the lip seal, then tap
in the inner bearing until its hard up against the
lipseal/spacer. Finally fix the brass gear back to the
shaft.
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
??? ??? ya should just send it to me , then ya don't decide where
to use it
??? ??? animal
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?
I have one on my Clausing 8520 mill and one
on my Delta 14" Bandsaw and I have two more
one for my Craftsman 12x36 Lathe and then ...
Ralph
?
??? ???? I wouldn't waste that motor on that
bandsaw unless ya have s few to waste , that
motor would much better serve on a lathe
,drill press , small mill . but that's just my
thought
??? ??? YMMV
??? ??? animal
?
Thanks? vreededesign,
that's what I needed, now to get it
done.
I
have the cast gearbox but as I have
said I am "thinking" (always a
dangerous thing) of
mounting
the Consew Brushless motor directly
eliminating the gears.
I
might even mill the gearbox?off the frame making a
tighter configuration.
Of
course I have no time until?possible
this winter, even then it is a big
if.
Ralph
?
Ralph?
Not knowing exactly what
your gearbox is like (there
are many?variations),
its safest to remove the
output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross
section drawing I did for Mike
you'll see that there is
nothing preventing the whole
brass gear, shaft and all the
bearings and internal spacers
from being pushed out of the
casting from the sawblade side
of the gearbox once the
sawblade drive wheel, the
spacer behind it and the
bearing retainer have been
removed.? All you need is a
~3" long steel bar, bit less
than 35mm in diameter with a
5/8" hole drilled through it
and then press the whole
shebang out. But that means a
hydraulic press and taking the
sawframe casting off the base.
I believe that's how the
factories assemble them (with
the brass gear off of course),
all of the
different variations of the
saw no matter who made them.
However most people haven't
got a press to do that, so
want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip
on the shaft or not (most
don't), tap out the shaft from
the sawblade side with a soft
hammer or undersized brass
drift, if you hit it with a
hard hammer you'll expand the
end where you hit it and it
won't slide through the
bearings and will be truly
locked up.? Also make sure
there are no burrs on the
shaft before you start or it
will still lock up. The shaft
should be bright and clean and
would help to give it a quick
lick with a strip of 400grit
wet&dry paper just to be
sure.
Once the shaft is out,?
you'll have to drift out the
bearings, seal and spacer from
inside the casting, which will
certainly ruin the seal and
likely the bearing should be
replaced at the same time esp.
the one on the sawblade side
as it doesn't get any oil from
the gearbox. Heating the
casting with propane torch or
heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft?
is done by pulling the whole
lot out from the pulley end.
Use heat again. John Pitkin
described a simple puller and
how to use it in message 5289,
20May08 - jv
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
I have one on my Clausing 8520 mill and one on my Delta 14" Bandsaw and I have two more one for my Craftsman 12x36 Lathe and then ...
Ralph
?
??? ???? I wouldn't waste that motor on that bandsaw unless ya
have s few to waste , that motor would much better serve on a
lathe ,drill press , small mill . but that's just my thought
??? ??? YMMV
??? ??? animal
?
Thanks? vreededesign,
that's what I needed, now to get it done.
I
have the cast gearbox but as I have said I am
"thinking" (always a dangerous thing) of
mounting
the Consew Brushless motor directly eliminating the
gears.
I
might even mill the gearbox?off
the frame making a tighter configuration.
Of
course I have no time until?possible
this winter, even then it is a big if.
Ralph
?
Ralph?
Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is
like (there are many?variations),
its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I
did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing
preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all
the bearings and internal spacers from being
pushed out of the casting from the sawblade
side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive
wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing
retainer have been removed.? All you need is a
~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in
diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it
and then press the whole shebang out. But that
means a hydraulic press and taking the
sawframe casting off the base. I believe
that's how the factories assemble them (with
the brass gear off of course), all of
the different variations of the saw no matter
who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to
do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or
not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the
sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized
brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer
you'll expand the end where you hit it and it
won't slide through the bearings and will be
truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no
burrs on the shaft before you start or it will
still lock up. The shaft should be bright and
clean and would help to give it a quick lick
with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just
to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to
drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from
inside the casting, which will certainly ruin
the seal and likely the bearing should be
replaced at the same time esp. the one on the
sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from
the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane
torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by
pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end.
Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple
puller and how to use it in message 5289,
20May08 - jv
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
??? ???? I wouldn't waste that motor on that bandsaw unless ya
have s few to waste , that motor would much better serve on a
lathe ,drill press , small mill . but that's just my thought
??? ??? YMMV
??? ??? animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Thanks? vreededesign,
that's what I needed, now to get it done.
I
have the cast gearbox but as I have said I am
"thinking" (always a dangerous thing) of
mounting
the Consew Brushless motor directly eliminating the
gears.
I
might even mill the gearbox?off
the frame making a tighter configuration.
Of
course I have no time until?possible
this winter, even then it is a big if.
Ralph
?
Ralph?
Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is
like (there are many?variations),
its safest to remove the output shaft first.?
If you look at the cross section drawing I
did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing
preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all
the bearings and internal spacers from being
pushed out of the casting from the sawblade
side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive
wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing
retainer have been removed.? All you need is a
~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in
diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it
and then press the whole shebang out. But that
means a hydraulic press and taking the
sawframe casting off the base. I believe
that's how the factories assemble them (with
the brass gear off of course), all of
the different variations of the saw no matter
who made them.
However most people haven't got a press to
do that, so want to do it bit by bit.
Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or
not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the
sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized
brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer
you'll expand the end where you hit it and it
won't slide through the bearings and will be
truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no
burrs on the shaft before you start or it will
still lock up. The shaft should be bright and
clean and would help to give it a quick lick
with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just
to be sure.
Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to
drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from
inside the casting, which will certainly ruin
the seal and likely the bearing should be
replaced at the same time esp. the one on the
sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from
the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane
torch or heatgun helps.
Removing the input shaft? is done by
pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end.
Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple
puller and how to use it in message 5289,
20May08 - jv
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Thanks? vreededesign, that's what I needed, now to get it done.
I have the cast gearbox but as I have said I am "thinking" (always a dangerous thing) of mounting the Consew Brushless motor directly eliminating the gears.
I might even mill the gearbox?off the frame making a tighter configuration.
Of course I have no time until?possible this winter, even then it is a big if.
Ralph
?
Ralph? Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.? If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them. However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit. Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure. Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps. Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Ralph? Not knowing exactly what your gearbox is like (there are many?variations), its safest to remove the output shaft first.? If you look at the cross section drawing I did for Mike you'll see that there is nothing preventing the whole brass gear, shaft and all the bearings and internal spacers from being pushed out of the casting from the sawblade side of the gearbox once the sawblade drive wheel, the spacer behind it and the bearing retainer have been removed.? All you need is a ~3" long steel bar, bit less than 35mm in diameter with a 5/8" hole drilled through it and then press the whole shebang out. But that means a hydraulic press and taking the sawframe casting off the base. I believe that's how the factories assemble them (with the brass gear off of course), all of the different variations of the saw no matter who made them. However most people haven't got a press to do that, so want to do it bit by bit. Whether yours has a circlip on the shaft or not (most don't), tap out the shaft from the sawblade side with a soft hammer or undersized brass drift, if you hit it with a hard hammer you'll expand the end where you hit it and it won't slide through the bearings and will be truly locked up.? Also make sure there are no burrs on the shaft before you start or it will still lock up. The shaft should be bright and clean and would help to give it a quick lick with a strip of 400grit wet&dry paper just to be sure. Once the shaft is out,? you'll have to drift out the bearings, seal and spacer from inside the casting, which will certainly ruin the seal and likely the bearing should be replaced at the same time esp. the one on the sawblade side as it doesn't get any oil from the gearbox. Heating the casting with propane torch or heatgun helps. Removing the input shaft? is done by pulling the whole lot out from the pulley end. Use heat again. John Pitkin described a simple puller and how to use it in message 5289, 20May08 - jv
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
??? ??? well ifin it has a snap ring like mine did ya tap it from
the other side
??? ??? animal
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?
Thanks Mike, but which way do I tap the shaft
out?
Ralph
?
Oops.... Just realised that the spacer ring
between the drive wheel and the outer bearing
of the gearbox IS
necessary.? If its not there the shaft can
slide axially by the amount of the spacer's
width.??
Sorry, I can't edit the post now, but the
paragraph beginning 'If the above is
the way....' is wrong - jv?
Posted by: Ralph Hulslander
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Thanks Mike, but which way do I tap the shaft out?
Ralph
?
Oops.... Just realised that the spacer ring between the drive wheel and the outer bearing of the gearbox IS necessary.? If its not there the shaft can slide axially by the amount of the spacer's width.?? Sorry, I can't edit the post now, but the paragraph beginning 'If the above is the way....' is wrong - jv?
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Oops.... Just realised that the spacer ring between the drive wheel and the outer bearing of the gearbox IS necessary.? If its not there the shaft can slide axially by the amount of the spacer's width.?? Sorry, I can't edit the post now, but the paragraph beginning 'If the above is the way....' is wrong - jv?
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Whoa guys, Mike still needs help with his original question. Lets think this through as to how it could be assembled. The bearings should be flush with either side of the gearbox casting, i.e. spaced as far apart as they can go for best support of the output shaft (to stop it bending under the load of the worm drive or the tension in the sawblade). Next the brass gear needs to be held in a fixed relationship to the worm on the gearbox input shaft.? That means somewhere in the system the brass gear & shaft? has to be stopped from moving axially in the gearbox casting.?With your output shaft having a circlip roughly in the middle of it, I'm picking that it goes in the inside of the bearing closest to the sawband drive wheel. With bearing retainer ring on the other side of the same bearing, the brass gear + shaft is locked in position into the gearbox casting.?? I think the spacer (2nd from left top row in yr pic) is in between the sawband drive wheel and the inner of the? that bearing (not the bearing retainer, it's too big ID to bear on the spacer).? My saw has one here, as do others.??Its a loose fit on the shaft and spaces the drive wheel off the adjacent bearing. The only thing left is to seal in the oil (std bearings are 6202 Z with one shield which won't stop oil leaking through).? 6202 2RS bearing have 2 rubber seals but even these are not meant to seal in oil, so there has to be a lip seal between the bearing (normally 35mmOD x 15mmID x 7mmW lip seal) Lastly the bearing outers need to be spaced apart so they are in proper relationship to each other and that will be the big diameter spacer (in the middle of yr pic) Crude drawing attached. My RF clone saw has this arrangement of spacers, bearings and seal but without the circlip on the shaft and relies on friction of bearings on the shaft and housing to stop axial movement of brass gear.? If the above is the way to assemble your G/box (I'm really just guessing from what is there), then the spacer between the bandwheel and the bearing next to it is not necessary, as the key and grubscrew will hold the bandwheel in position on the shaft and the shaft can't move axially either because of the bearing retainer ring and the circlip.? Think about the order of assembly. You must not push or bang on a bearings inner race to seat the outer race.? The pro's like to push an assembled shaft and its bearings into the housing as a unit, but they have presses and jigs to do it.? If you can do it that way,? Otherwise you can assemble bit by bit, but only if the shaft is a sliding fit in the bearing inners (it can be with your setup and still have positive locking of the shaft in axial position, so you could sand the shaft down with a strip of 400G wet&dry paper until they do just slide in).? Tap in the bearing that's next to the bandwheel first with a big 1/2" drive socket against its outer race, making it flush with edge of the casting, then slide in the shaft + circlip from the gearbox side, then the bearing OD spacer and push in the lip seal, then tap in the inner bearing until its hard up against the lipseal/spacer. Finally fix the brass gear back to the shaft.
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed [1 Attachment]
When you are finished with the gear replacement, you can make a plexiglass or acrylic gear box cover so you can see the oil level.? I did this an placed a 1/4" bolt towards the top that can be unscrewed to add more oil if/when needed.??
See picture of mine:??
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
??? ??? yer pretty much on yer own when it comes to these saws
unless ya get a "real one " I went through 7 or 8 different
manuals tryin to figure? how mine went together . & all were
different for the part I was workin on .
??? ??? I can tell ya
??? ??? 1. unplug the machine & remove the gear box cover
& get all of the crap out of it
??? ??? 2. remove gear from shaft
??? ??? 3. remove the drive wheel & key ,? & don't loose
the spacer if ya have one
??? ??? 4. remove 3 screw's & retainer ring
??? ??? 5. carefully tap the shaft out KEEPING TRACK ON WHAT CAME
FROM WHERE !!!
??? ??? there should be 2 bearings, a large diameter spacer ,
& a seal .
??? ??? have fun
??? ??? animal
??? ???
On 5/21/2019 10:08 AM, Ralph Hulslander
rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
My bandsaw is a Buffalo with the solid cast
gear box!
Ralph
?
How exactly, step by step does
one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you
were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil
once a year?
Now I need to replace the gears but do
not knw where to begin!
Ralph
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Actually I am "thinking" of adding a directly and not using any gears. The motor has lots of torque at 50 rpm to 4,000 rpm.
I have one on my Delta 14" bandsaw works great.
Ralph
?
Easy enough to make your own.? Length of clear
plastic rod.? Turn one end down a bit then thread for a standard
nut you have handy.? Taper the end to a point.
Insert through hold in cover with o-ring between cover and step
left from turning down.? Install nut.? Replace cover.
If you got the length right, when the tapered part is immersed in
oil the part out of the box will be dark.? When in air, it will be
light.
Done.
Sent via my UFO, an
Interstellar Alien 42G smartphone
There was a seller in the forum that sold an oil level
indicator that you could mount on the gear box coverplate. I
dont know if he still selling them? Once you got it tore down
and repaired an oil level indicator would be a nice option. At
least you'd know when the gearbox is low on lubricant. Hope this
helps.
Mt. Airy, MD
Sent via the
Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886
@DurandInterstel
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Easy enough to make your own.? Length of clear
plastic rod.? Turn one end down a bit then thread for a standard
nut you have handy.? Taper the end to a point.
Insert through hold in cover with o-ring between cover and step
left from turning down.? Install nut.? Replace cover.
If you got the length right, when the tapered part is immersed in
oil the part out of the box will be dark.? When in air, it will be
light.
Done.
Sent via my UFO, an
Interstellar Alien 42G smartphone
There was a seller in the forum that sold an oil level
indicator that you could mount on the gear box coverplate. I
dont know if he still selling them? Once you got it tore down
and repaired an oil level indicator would be a nice option. At
least you'd know when the gearbox is low on lubricant. Hope this
helps.
Mt. Airy, MD
Sent via the
Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
--
Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.
tel: +1 408 356-3886
@DurandInterstel
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
There was a seller in the forum that sold an oil level indicator that you could mount on the gear box coverplate. I dont know if he still selling them? Once you got it tore down and repaired an oil level indicator would be a nice option. At least you'd know when the gearbox is low on lubricant. Hope this helps.
Mt. Airy, MD
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: "Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> Date: 5/21/19 12:41 PM (GMT-05:00) To: "November X-Ray n8676x@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] HF Bandsaw Help needed
How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?
Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!
Ralph
?
[Attachment(s) from mike included below]
?? evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it
up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it &
the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear
??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant
find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so
here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a
nudge in the right
??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which
does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a
spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a
spacer t. I'm pretty sure that
??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the
bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the
bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just
uncertain of the
??? ??? order they go
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
My bandsaw is a Buffalo with the solid cast gear box!
Ralph
?
How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?
Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!
Ralph
?
[Attachment(s) from mike included below]
?? evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it
up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it &
the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear
??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant
find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so
here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a
nudge in the right
??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which
does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a
spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a
spacer t. I'm pretty sure that
??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the
bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the
bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just
uncertain of the
??? ??? order they go
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed [1 Attachment]
How exactly, step by step does one disassemble the gear box? Who knew you were supposed to check the gear box grease/oil once a year?
Now I need to replace the gears but do not knw where to begin!
Ralph
?
[Attachment(s) from mike included below]
?? evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it
up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it &
the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear
??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant
find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so
here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a
nudge in the right
??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which
does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a
spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a
spacer t. I'm pretty sure that
??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the
bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the
bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just
uncertain of the
??? ??? order they go
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
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Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
??? ??? tks JV , mine in one of the new reddish color they are
using these days .? I did go by the store today when I was in town
& it looks like the small bushing is between the drive wheel
& the retainer , to me it looks
??? ??? like that put's the wheel's out of skew (sp) if that
make's any sense , can anyone confirm where the small spacer go's?
I must have DL'd 10 or so manuals yesterday & still I'm no
closer other than less ink
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
??? ???
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?
Is yours the HF with the bolt-on gearbox or is it cast
into the sawframe?
The Files section has a manual for a HF37151 with
bolt-on gearbox, which has a shaft with a circlip on it.
The parts list is crudely drawn but seems to show the
oil seal on the outside , then 2 bearings then the
circlip.? Then there's a 'pin' which you don't show (but
might be a key) since the next part is the brass gear.?
The following site shows dismantling and rebuilding of
a bolt on HF gearbox:?.?
Doesn't go into the output side of the gearbox, but you
might appeal to the site owner for any extra info he might
have.
Rgds - jv
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Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Is yours the HF with the bolt-on gearbox or is it cast into the sawframe? The Files section has a manual for a HF37151 with bolt-on gearbox, which has a shaft with a circlip on it. The parts list is crudely drawn but seems to show the oil seal on the outside , then 2 bearings then the circlip.? Then there's a 'pin' which you don't show (but might be a key) since the next part is the brass gear.?
The following site shows dismantling and rebuilding of a bolt on HF gearbox:?.? Doesn't go into the output side of the gearbox, but you might appeal to the site owner for any extra info he might have.
Rgds - jv
|
evening folks . I have a HF 62377 that I bought used , I opened it up to chek the oil & to no surprise there was none . so I dove into it & the seal was wadded up wrapped around the shaft under the Brass gear
??? ??? on the drive wheel shaft , the manual show's different I cant find the pic's I took with a different camera when I took it apart , so here's a few pics of my parts & hopefully one of you pros can give e a nudge in the right
??? ??? direction . I have the seal, shaft with a cir clip , (which does not show in the parts list ) 2 bearings , 1 what looks like a spacer for between the bearings or between 1 bearing & the seal ? & a spacer t. I'm pretty sure that
??? ??? these parts all came out of the? machined cavity (that the bearings & seal fit into ) between the retainer with the 3 screws & the bronze or brass gear on the driven shaft in the gear box , I'm just uncertain of the
??? ??? order they go
??? ??? tks
??? ??? animal
|
Jerry Durand