Keyboard Shortcuts
Likes
- 4x6bandsaw
- Messages
Search
|
New file uploaded to 4x6bandsaw
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the 4x6bandsaw group. File : /Blade Welders, Electric/2005_0928-Harbor Freight Blade Welder.pdf Uploaded by : n5fee <n5fee@...> Description : Voltage and Clamp distance Measurements You can access this file at the URL: To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: Regards, n5fee <n5fee@...> |
|
Re: loose top pulley mount.
Hi Bo
The tension block that carries the driven wheel's axle is loose on its guide rails in most? saws I've seen.? I reversed the rails (so? the slots in the axle block run on the other side of the rails) on mine because where they originally ran was thinned on my rails.? I don't think it actually matters very much, as when the blade tension comes on it pulls it all rigid anyway. Play here is not the problem. The normal reason for the blade cutting into the guide bracket?when it derails (its happened to me), is for the side guide rollers to be set too far apart (too much blade to side roller clearance) and/or the guide bracket being too far forward. Either almost zero clearance or John Pitkin's 7thou clearance work without the problem you experienced.? Both rear guide rollers should be back far enough so BOTH only turn intermittently when adjusted properly - put some diagonal lines on each bearing with a Sharpie so you can tell when they are turning. A full alignment will cure this - jv |
|
Re: loose top pulley mount.
开云体育I purchased my HF 4x6 saw (green one) in 2004. Outside of blade (bi-metal) changes, all still runs great. I've cut 10-inch steel "I" beams, various other steel, aluminium, brass, and stainless shapes. I have a 3 foot section of 5/8" rod that I substitute with the original stop when cutting multiple items longer than the original stop. When I'm done, I put the original stop back in.? If you trim the blade guard to the first crease,? you can gain some additional cutting clearance.? The blade is still fully covered. I use the heck out of my saw for various projects.? Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "bogiestl@... [4x6bandsaw]" <4x6bandsaw@...> Date: 7/9/19 6:41 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Loose top pulley mount Well, I was cutting a big chunk of aluminum, and I didn't grab it in time, and... jam... And it looks like some stuff has come loose. |
|
Loose top pulley mount
Well, I was cutting a big chunk of aluminum, and I didn't grab it in time, and... jam... And it looks like some stuff has come loose. |
|
Re: Butt welder [1 Attachment]
Thanks for the time and effort put into the response. You have fully described and put down a great narrative of the function. Mine works mechanically differently, but not an issue to the fundamental operation. Here, near Birmingham, a large city I have yet to find a shop with an expert. I have work associates, from spot welding and seam welding machine supply OEMs, but no expert on the exact work of butt welders, hence my global request. Specifically the voltages to feed the secondary step down transformer. So will be down to some experimentation.
On Thursday, 20 June 2019, 13:15:08 BST, vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
?
[Attachment(s) from vreededesign@... [4x6bandsaw] included below]
Photo 2 |
|
Re: Butt welder
Hi Peter
If you want to get it going again I suggest you take it to a local welding supply/service place, as I did with the one pictured. There'll be one in almost every city.?They told me a blade welder is stone-axe simple (just one transformer a few switches and springs, no electronics or timers). The technicians had all seen and worked on them. It shouldn't be hard to reconstruct yours. This is how my one works, referring to the pictures attached: Looking at the outside (photo 1), there are normally two cam-locking vices - one for each side of the blade to be welded.? They're made?from copper or bronze,?and each one is connected to one of the low voltage/high current outputs on the secondary side of the transformer. Cam-locks are a way to make a good low resistance connection to the blade ends.?? With the blade ends touching, when the current is turned on, the resistance of the steel is high enough to heat the blade ends to melting point. To make the butt joint the white hot ends of the blade are pushed together.? Once it has moved far enough the current turned off.? The cooling metal solidifies and stops the ends from being pushed?together?any further. To allow the blade ends to move toward each other one of the two vices slides on dovetails (photo 2), the other one is fixed.? The 'Pressure'?knob?(top RHS photo 1) adjusts the pressure on a spring, pulling the moveable jaw toward the fixed jaw, via a cam and lever (photo 3). The more you wind the knob the more spring pressure is applied to the cut ends as they are butted together. When the ends melt the spring pulls the moveable vice toward the fixed one upsetting the weld, which stops the current from just blowing the ends off the blade (the vice must move freely with the spring pressure). There is a plunger-operated micro-switch bearing on the moving vice that cuts off the current when the vice has moved far enough (see it in photo 4, I removed to make the dovetails clear in photo 2). Then the vice will continue to move only for as long as the metal is molten.? The greater the spring pressure the further the vice can move in that time.? Wider and/or thicker saw blades use higher spring pressures. The rest of the wiring allows different voltage taps on the primary side of the transformer?(the 2 in the centre of the strip of connections screwed to the transformer)?to pass lower secondary current (but still high enough to heat the joint) to anneal the weld and other connection to power the grinder - jv?? ? |
|
Butt welder
I have been donated a butt welder that has been stripped from a large wood shop bandsaw, that was scrapped. No manufacturers ID and look like low volume build from the marking blue on the castings. Previously silver soldered blades as required. It has a rotary setting selector for blade width, from which the multiple wires go off in a loom which has been cut. Since the transformer only has a single primary winding I am assuming that these wire, corresponding to width went to other tapping from another transformer ( a timing circuit)? any idea was voltage tese would have been fed from. It does not have a built in grinder, but does have a shear. It also has a cam locking vice like attachment. Can anyone explain what this is, or how to use it? Peter |
|
Blade welding fault
Hi all Just discovered a welding fault that's probably quite common, but it threw me for a bit until I figured out what was going on. I cut through a piece of 4x1 joinery timber standing upright in the vice doing the squareness test with a brand new blade and it squealed and vibrated like mad. Turned out when the manufacturer dressed the weld off they took off the set on the teeth for about 3/4" (20mm) on both sides of the weld 1 1/2" (40mm) total. Cutting down through the wood is reasonably quick so when that bit of the blade passed through the workpiece the kerf was only as wide as the back of the blade and it left lumps on the cut faces.? The blade then jammed on these and set up the squealing and vibration.The picture shows the lumps every time the weld passed (highlighted with pencil rub) .? You can see it as shiny spots on the points of the teeth (though not easy to photograph) and feel it when running the blade between your thumb and forefinger; its smooth when the rest of the blade is prickle-sharp.? Went back and checked my other blades and all show a little bit of damage to the teeth from grinding but 1/2" (13mm) is OK, 1/ 1/2 " (40mm) is not. Screws up the cut finish in metal and draws more power.? Also screws up the squareness test if you measure over one of the lumps or not, so have updated the doc attached and in the Files. Its something you can check when buying a blade by feel. Rgds - jv |
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Ralph Hulslander
?yes cost!! Ralph
|
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
开云体育Main thing is cost.? The Consew comes with the controller and isn't very expensive.? I used one on a grinding table I made for someone and have another to put on my milling machine.And for those in 50Hz land, these require 110/120V but will run on 50Hz, so a transformer is needed. On 6/5/19 1:39 AM, Bob Wise
bob@... [4x6bandsaw] wrote:
-- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. tel: +1 408 356-3886 @DurandInterstel |
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
Bob Wise
What are the tradeoffs of the brushless DC setup vs a small 3-phase motor?+ vfd? On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 11:18 PM Ralph Hulslander rhulslander@... [4x6bandsaw] <4x6bandsaw@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
JV - You really went above and beyond with your explanation and drawing to help out another group member!? That's what I love about this group and a couple of others that I'm a member of (machinery and firearms) - members really going the extra mile to help another member out with their issues. There is so much knowledge and experience among the group(s) and so freely shared.? Thanks again JV, and all others! Chip ---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <vreededesign@...> wrote : Whoa guys, Mike still needs help with his original question. Lets think this through as to how it could be assembled......... |
|
Re: HF Bandsaw Help needed
开云体育Or while you have the existing metal cover off, drill and tap it for a filler & level plug. ? Robert Downs ? From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2019 21:55 To: 4x6bandsaw@... Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] HF Bandsaw Help needed ?
? See picture of mine:?? ? Posted by: jsppleasant@... |
Jerry Durand