Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
Hi Mark You ask what brand blade to use.?? In my experience it doesn't matter much what brand you use so long as it is the right teeth count for the material?and saw. I've made a bit of a thing about blade performance and have tried?all the blades I can get my hands on, which is by no means all of them, but enough to get a picture: Starrett (US), Lenox (US), Bruel (Germany), Rontgen (Germany) BiChamp (China), iMachinist (China)??Hakkonsen?(Sweden) and Bahco (originally?Swedish but now a Snapon brand made in Belarus). I've trialled cutting performance (how fast it cuts through a 4"x 5/8" bar and how that changes over 100 repeat cuts), of all the Bimetal blades and there was no statistical difference between them ($7US iMachinist blades off AliExpress to?$35US Bruel imported coil welded in NZ).? I've never 'worn-out' any of them! - They've sometimes snapped at the weld (mnfr fault), or
- I've either abused them by cutting hardened?metal (stainless steel work hardens so it becomes uncuttable if you cut too slow which dulls the teeth), or
- I've ripped off teeth because the metal was too thin, or
- The blades snap from metal fatigue from being bent around the too-small diameter of the 4x6's bandwheels. (Run continuously without guides,?all?bimetal blades break after 12-60hrs, it's?very?variable and doesn't seem to relate to blade tension - just the bending back and forth around the wheel.)
When people?say "Buy a good blade" they are mostly talking about?buying a 'Bimetal' blade, which has high speed steel (HSS) tips on a high tensile steel band. There is an intermediate type of blade called Hard-Edge-Hard-Back (which has teeth ground into the same band material as Bimetal blades) and then the 'lowest quality' Hard--Edge-Flex-Back which is generally called a 'Carbon steel' blade. The bimetal blade will cut a greater range of harder metal, but treated properly (proper feed rate with right teeth-in-cut on appropriate hardness material) the others last just as well, better in fact when they're half the price! The machinery and process to electron beam weld HSS tips on the teeth is not cheap and not many people have it.? At a guess I'd say only a few of the very biggest mnfrs (probably Lenox, Morse, Rontgen Bahco etc) have the gear to do it, and all the others will buy coiled stock from them and grind, weld and trademark it themselves, or get theirs made by the big ones as a 'house brand'. That said, there is a big difference between the welding?of the different manufacturers and their local?distributors, who make from?coil. This takes into account loop length, alignment of both sides across the joint, annealing of the weld and grinding of the weld-flash at the joint.? The best aligned, loop length and grinding control has been Rontgen - it must be CNC controlled to get them so uniform, however there was something wrong with the annealing?setup that day, and all 3 blades I bought broke at the weld, yet the Rontgen blades I've bought that were welded here in NZ were always OK. The iMachinist blades were very well aligned (better than the Lenox or Starrett) but had far too much ground off the joint - the tips of the teeth were gone on both sides for 3/4" on each side of the weld which made it squeal every time the joint went through the work esp when cutting wood. You can tell how well the grinding has been done by running the joint?in the blade between your thumb and forefinger.? You'll feel the prickle of the sharp points except where they've been ground off.? Done really well, like the CNC controlled Rontgen, there's?less than 1/4" on either side of the weld (1/2" total). The blade should NEVER break at the joint - take it back for a refund or another?blade if it does, no matter?how old. A bimetal 10-14 TPI vari-pitch, nominal 1/2" wide x 0.025" thick blade is 'the standard'? blade for 4x6's.? It's the blade to have if all you cut is 1/8" thick or thicker steel, set to run at about 7-8lb bow weight. However it is completely the wrong blade to cut aluminium; it will clog the teeth and cut crooked. A 4 to 8TPI straight pitch carbon blade (only bimetal blades are vari-pitch) will cut aluminum?all day dead straight at 5lb bow weight, much?faster than a 10-14.? Heat is the enemy of tooth sharpness.? HSS has MUCH greater hot hardness than carbon steel so resists the heat generated by cutting hard steel like high tensile or tool steel, and the heat from cutting stainless steel, which workhardens when cut by a bandsaw (so many teeth at such thin?cut-per- tooth) and is a very poor conductor of heat, so almost all the heat of cutting goes into the teeth which rapidly softens a carbon steel tooth. By comparison aluminium is?an excellent heat conductor and no matter?how fast you feed it, the tooth will never get hot enough to de-temper. At similar TPI, bimetal blades do not cut aluminium any better than carbon steel blades.?? I think the lesson is:? - The HSS of all bimetal blades is so similar you will not be able to tell the difference, so find a 10-14 blade that is welded properly and stick with that.?
- I'd be?much more inclined to buy a reputable brand name blade for the coarse carbon steel blade that you should also have. They are either a solid blue colour or have the rainbow of induction hardening & tempering colours on teeth and back edge.? Buy a 4 or 6TPI?blade for cutting soft materials (aluminium, brass, wood, plastic etc), as the technology for making carbon steel blades is much more accessible to unsophisticated manufacturers.
- If your saw has hydraulic downfeed control buy a 5-8TPI bimetal blade and use that for everything, just slowing the feed rate as the hardness of the material goes up.
Rgds - jv?
What brand saw blades are you using?
Get
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met
his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where
you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
Classic bike! I started racing with a '72 DT2MX250 and got a MX250
when they came out. Didn't have the MX250 for long, since the
YZ250& 360A's came out later in '73, so I got some of those as
soon as they hit Tucson.
MX250 had transmission problems, at least, if you race 'em hard.
Mine blew up twice. It became pretty much? expected. Probably held
up a lot better for plain ol' desert ridin'.
All were before anyone discovered suspension with travel. MX250 had
the rear shocks with the extra reservoir on 'em, I remember that.?
The big suspension changes started in '74.
Hope you get your 250 restored, and post some pics as you get 'er
done!
Other Bill
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready
to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be
great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm
partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing .
I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting
for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of
the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension
, those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the
late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys
were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson
wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks
than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system
to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a
large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position
and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple
of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know
your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of
people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence
going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede
wrote:
My pleasure
to be of assistance Steve.
Its a
long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and
I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been
helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to
life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he
was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He
met his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road
rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab
rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many
memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic
issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no
other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at
10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good
enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw
in the vertical position AND sort out the table
alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large
shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame
casting solved the table being square to the blade. I
haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the
moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've
made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x
80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the
outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the
saw in the horizontal and vertical positions with the
table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the
front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the
horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may
have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one
side, is to allow a larger table with locating
guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the
tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend
with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his
was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix
his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and
knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another
look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how
that works for me. Probably be next week before I
get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the
previous post before going on my regular Wednesday
walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to
photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of
the casting (where the circle with the dot is in
that photo), where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at the top,
not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I
suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between
the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as
shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill
& tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
??? ??? Add youtube after moto cross on .....
On 11/5/2022 10:45 AM, mike allen
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready
to build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be
great to see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm
partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing .
I still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting
for the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of
the vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension
, those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the
late 50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys
were real tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson
wrote:
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks
than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system
to move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a
large 4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position
and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple
of bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know
your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of
people had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence
going up in value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede
wrote:
My pleasure
to be of assistance Steve.
Its a
long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and
I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been
helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to
life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he
was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He
met his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road
rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab
rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many
memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic
issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no
other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at
10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good
enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw
in the vertical position AND sort out the table
alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large
shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame
casting solved the table being square to the blade. I
haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the
moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've
made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x
80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the
outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the
saw in the horizontal and vertical positions with the
table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the
front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the
horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may
have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one
side, is to allow a larger table with locating
guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the
tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend
with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his
was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix
his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and
knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another
look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how
that works for me. Probably be next week before I
get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the
previous post before going on my regular Wednesday
walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to
photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of
the casting (where the circle with the dot is in
that photo), where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at the top,
not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I
suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between
the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as
shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill
& tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
??? ??? Sounds like a super neato project , I'm getting ready to
build my machine room inside of my shop & it would be great to
see / hear more about your overhead project . I'm partly disabled
??? ??? & anything to help in heavy lifting is a blessing . I
still have my 1973 Yamaha MX250 , though its in boxes waiting for
the proper star alignment for the rebuild . Watch some of the
vintage
??? ??? moto cross on? . Those old bikes with 4" of suspension ,
those racers were real men !!!!!!!! & the ones from the late
50's - early 60's on the big British bikes , those guys were real
tough !
??? ??? animal
On 11/5/2022 3:05 AM, steve nicholson
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks
than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to
move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill,
planning for my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large
4-jaw chuck or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position
and get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of
bikes on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know
your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people
had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in
value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
My pleasure
to be of assistance Steve.
Its a
long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I
admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been
helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.?
He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at
Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his
wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the
tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from
sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It
runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be
part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no
other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50
AM steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good
enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw
in the vertical position AND sort out the table
alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim
between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting
solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't
bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't
move the lower arm so the shim will work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've
made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm),
the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside
edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in
the horizontal and vertical positions with the table in
place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of
the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal
position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been
warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side,
is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to
slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the
small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend
with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was
the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his
alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and
knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another
look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that
works for me. Probably be next week before I get a
chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the
previous post before going on my regular Wednesday
walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to
photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of
the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that
photo), where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not
me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I
suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between
the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as
shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill &
tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
On 11/5/2022 12:02 AM, mark lacombe wrote: What brand saw blades are you using?
Don't know about anyone else , but I've had good experiences with blades from LA Cutting Products . Good blades and their prices are reasonable . -- Snag “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t want to hear.” -George Orwell
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
What brand saw blades are you using?
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met
his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting (where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where
you should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
I think I've used my bandsaw more in the last couple of weeks
than the whole time I've had it, a new blade did wonders to
speeding up the cuts too. I'm making a over head rail system to
move tooling and material between bench, lathe and mill, planning
for my old ago when it becomes a strain to fit a large 4-jaw chuck
or move machine vice between mills!
Once the rails are up I can move the new lathe into position and
get back into working on projects again. I have a couple of bikes
on the project list to restore/get going again too.
Those old two strokes are collectable items now, nice to know
your friend has had the same bike all it's life. Lots of people
had them and are now wishing they kept them, hence going up in
value!
Yes my saw is very similar to yours.
On 5/11/22 14:22, John Vreede wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
My pleasure to
be of assistance Steve.
Its a long?time
since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to
taking a break from work on the 4x6's.??
I've been
helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He
bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at
Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his wife
because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the
tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding
along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now
and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of.
Your?saw?looks
like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no
other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50
AM steve nicholson < steve@...>
wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good
enough reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in
the vertical position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim
between the top of the guide arm and the frame casting
solved the table being square to the blade. I haven't
bothered with fitting set screws at the moment, I don't
move the lower arm so the shim will work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've
made. It is 6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm),
the inside edge is angled to the blade and the outside
edge is parallel with the blade. I can use the saw in the
horizontal and vertical positions with the table in place.
I had to grind a small amount off the front of the angled
edge to clear the frame in the horizontal position (my
wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side,
is to allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to
slide on and lock into place with the tapper on the small
table (still to be tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with
a similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the
same, he is keen to make a small table and fix his
alignment now he has seen mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and
knowledge you share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look
at the arm and try a packing shim to see how that works
for me. Probably be next week before I get a chance to
look at it properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the
previous post before going on my regular Wednesday
walking group and marked up the sawframe casting to
photograph it for you and got it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the
casting (where the circle with the dot is in that
photo), where you
should need to put the grub-screws in at the top, not
me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I
suggest you trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the
arm and the casting at the back of the slot as shown in
the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill &
tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
My pleasure to be of assistance Steve. Its a long?time since there's?been any activity on this site and I admit to taking a break from work on the 4x6's.?? I've been helping a friend bring his Mach III Kawasaki back to life.? He bought it new in San Francisco?in 1969 when he was at Stanford, and?won't part with?it in this life. He met his wife because it broke down in Montreal, has road rash on the tops(!) of the handlebars and passenger?grab rail from sliding along the freeway upside down.? So many memories. It runs now and we're attending to cosmetic issues. Great to be part of. Your?saw?looks like mine, which?just?has a model number - UC115 - and no other distinguishing marks. Taiwanese mnfr from 1987 - jv.
On Sat, Nov 5, 2022 at 10:50 AM steve nicholson < steve@...> wrote:
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough
reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical
position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between
the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table
being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set
screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is
6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is
angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the
blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the
front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal
position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to
allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and
lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be
tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a
similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is
keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen
mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you
share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson
wrote:
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the
arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me.
Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it
properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede
wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous
post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and
marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got
it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting
(where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where you should need to
put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you
trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting
at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: how to square vertical cutting table?
Well it has only taken 2 years for me to find a good enough
reason to make a table for use with the bandsaw in the vertical
position AND sort out the table alignment.
Thank you John, I can confirm that fitting a large shim between
the top of the guide arm and the frame casting solved the table
being square to the blade. I haven't bothered with fitting set
screws at the moment, I don't move the lower arm so the shim will
work fine for now.
I've attached a photo of the current small table I've made. It is
6mm (1/4") stainless (roughly 100mm x 80mm), the inside edge is
angled to the blade and the outside edge is parallel with the
blade. I can use the saw in the horizontal and vertical positions
with the table in place. I had to grind a small amount off the
front of the angled edge to clear the frame in the horizontal
position (my wood prototype cleared but may have been warped).
The idea of the small table with the angle on one side, is to
allow a larger table with locating guides/rails to slide on and
lock into place with the tapper on the small table (still to be
tested).
I mentioned the table alignment problem to a friend with a
similar bandsaw, he checked his and said his was the same, he is
keen to make a small table and fix his alignment now he has seen
mine.
So thank you again John Vreede for all you help and knowledge you
share on these bandsaws.
Steve
On 23/09/20 22:23, Steve Nicholson
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for the information John, I'll take another look at the
arm and try a packing shim to see how that works for me.
Probably be next week before I get a chance to look at it
properly.
Thanks again and have a wonderful day all.
Steve
On 23/09/20 4:45 pm, John Vreede
wrote:
Arghhh..... Wrong way round!.
Sorry Steve I got up this morning early to write the previous
post before going on my regular Wednesday walking group and
marked up the sawframe casting to photograph it for you and got
it backwards.
I will be putting the setscrews in at the bottom of the casting
(where the circle with the dot is in that photo), where you should need to
put the grub-screws in at the top, not me.
I moved the bottom of my guide arm out <1mm, I suggest you
trial adding about 1.5mm of shim between the arm and the casting
at the back of the slot as shown in the photo attached.
If that squares up your table then you can drill & tap
Sorry for the confusion - jv
|
Re: Fixing an HF 4x6 bandsaw so it will really handle 4x6 material- link to homemadetools.net
Thanks for posting. ? ?Did you folks use thrust washers on the vise handle to take out the handle slop?
I have a bunch of pictures of the mods I did on my saw in the photo section.
|
Re: Fixing an HF 4x6 bandsaw so it will really handle 4x6 material- link to homemadetools.net
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10+, an AT&T 5G Evolution smartphone
Get
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Not sure if the attachments will work, but here is a simple fix that I did that saved many skinned knuckles.
?
CarlH
?
Thanks for posting Bill.?? I am hoping that others will post their 4x6 modifications as well.??
I’m pretty much tapped out on any more mods for my saw.? I might make some OO blocks to hold square tubing.?? I also might make an auxiliary vice to hold/position small parts.
|
Re: Fixing an HF 4x6 bandsaw so it will really handle 4x6 material- link to homemadetools.net
Not sure if the attachments will work, but here is a simple fix that I did
that saved many skinned knuckles.
?
CarlH
?
Thanks
for posting Bill.?? I am hoping that others will post their 4x6
modifications as well.??
I’m pretty much tapped out on any more mods for my saw.? I might
make some OO blocks to hold square tubing.?? I also might make an
auxiliary vice to hold/position small parts.
|
Re: Fixing an HF 4x6 bandsaw so it will really handle 4x6 material- link to homemadetools.net
Thanks for posting Bill. ? I am hoping that others will post their 4x6 modifications as well. ??
I’m pretty much tapped out on any more mods for my saw. ?I might make some OO blocks to hold square tubing. ? I also might make an auxiliary vice to hold/position small parts.
|
Fixing an HF 4x6 bandsaw so it will really handle 4x6 material- link to homemadetools.net
Jerry Durand posted this mod he did quite some time ago, might be of use to others!
https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/hf-bandsaw-fix-so-can-actually-take-6-wide-material-78606#post206024
|
Re: Base casting measurements?
I bought a saw that I think was made in 1983 that had the flimsiest legs ever. ? I watched for metal carts on Craigslist and ended up with a Little Giant mobile table. ? I used 5 inch channel iron as a spacer between the table and the saw. ? ?This allows me to have a rock solid mobile base and space to place my steel and aluminum, etc. /g/4x6bandsaw/photo/258927/3142261?p=Created%2C%2C%2C50%2C2%2C0%2C0here is a link of my stand in the photos section of this group. ? I added a number of mods to my saw that are shown in the photo section. ? I never use my saw in the vertical orientation so this arrangement might not be for everyone but I really like it. Dave
|
On Sun, Apr 3, 2022 at 10:03 PM, David wrote:
Mark? - What is the dimensions of your table top?
!0" deep and 12" wide.
|
Mark? - What is the dimensions of your table top?
|
This site liked below may be the original inspiration? On my list to make too. There are some other nice mods on the site.? http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/bandsaw-table-and-fence.html
For now I use a small fixed table like the one Bill Armstrong shared.?
Melo
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-------- Original message -------- From: Greg Gelhar <greg@...> Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2022, 00:20 To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical table How about a table that converts from horizontal to vertical in one second? I pirated this idea many years ago and love it when needed. ? ? Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table? Photo's of custom tables would work too.
|
Hi David,
?check out my photos of my saw mods….Kerrins saw mods, …… the drawings are on page 4 of the files. Any question just ask.
Cheers Kerrin
|
First, I want to give credit to whoever I borrowed the design from, but too many years have gone by to remember their name. ? I use my saw in the vertical position a lot. The table is big enough to use a 2 ?” drill press vice to hold small material or to clamp a fence for duplicate cuts. For anyone interested, I had no drawings but used items found in my scrap box. The table is 6 x 6 x ?”, the stationary mount is 3 ? x 3 x ?” with the pivot edge fully radiused , and the two pivot anchors are 1 ? x ? x ? ”. There are two 5/32” dowel pins fitted into blind holes for the pivot action. A small mill/ drill, or better, will make this a quick project. ? Greg ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: Friday, April 1, 2022 6:48 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical table ? ??? ??? That is probably the coolest mod I have seen for one of these saws . Did you have an drawings or did you just go rogue ? Nice job , thanks for sharing . ??? ??? animal On 4/1/2022 4:19 PM, Greg Gelhar wrote: How about a table that converts from horizontal to vertical in one second? I pirated this idea many years ago and love it when needed. ? ? Hello,
Would anyone happen to have plans to build a vertical table? Photo's of custom tables would work too.
|
John Vreede
Bill in OKC too
Mark