Yeah thats a fair bit of misalignmentand probably due to the motor not being in the right place on its mount. The holes are generally pretty oversize so you can move the motor around a bit.? Maybe the mount is the wrong way rounud???? More annoying than a real problem though IMO.
Oil is a fraught subject.? In reality ANY modern (last 15years) 140 weight GEAR oil will be more than adequate. So thats SAE140, ISO VG460 or AGMA 7(comp) & 7EP.? High friction worm gear sets require high viscosity oil - never use motor oil. (that said motor oil is still better than no oil!)
I tested a whole lot of oils and tested to see how long it took in repetative cutting for the gearbox to hit 150degF, the best one was 75W-250 Red Line Heavy Shockproof which took 3x longer to reach that temp than the worst one.?
The arguments arise around corrosion of brass? (synchromesh pads in manual car transmissions).? GL4 oils are the 'yellow metal safe' and contain about half the level of Extreme Pressure (EP) additives than the current highest level gear oil package , GL5. The old EP additives broke down in the gearbox to acid (which eats the zinc in the brass) but modern ones are 'buffered' which is a chemistry term for maintaining the pH level (acidity) they started with so don't corrode brass anymore.? Besides gear oils in cars normally work at around 200F. and our bandsaws rarely get above 100F.? I left some polished brass in GL5 75-140 Lucas gear oil @ 100F on top of my hotwater cylinder for well over a year and the bit sticking out in the air was more tarnished than the bit it the oil which was still polished.? Modern GL5 gear oils are no problem in a 4x6 (but Id still use GL4 in a manual car transmission) . - jv
John Vreede