开云体育

Well you could look at it a different way. The table IS square to the blade, it is just the wrong shape.

?I have a benchtop mini-mill with a rotary table for milling curves or drilling out precise bolt hole circles and such.

So my idea would be: Instead of drilling two counter sunk holes in the upright cutting table for the two mounting screws that hold the table down, I would mill out two 'counter sunk" curved slots there instead, sort of like parenthesis. I.E. - Curved mounting slots instead of holes, ( and ) instead of? * and *. Lightly snug the table's mounting screws into their curved slots, and then bump / rotate / adjust the table until it is square with how the blade wants to cut, and then tighten them down firmly.? DONE. I suppose swarf would want to collect down in those little curved mounting slots, but if you really wanted a table that is square to the blade, in order to be able to run a nice cutting guide fence and such, then a simple chip brush and a shop vac would do for any minor additional clean up.

?A possible advancement of some very limited use from time to time, would be the then built in ability to purposely rotate the cutting table with it's guide fence to some carefully measured and set angle off of square, like to perhaps cut one side at a say, 0 to maybe 30 degree angle from the other. (Why you would want to do that I dunno, but rarely is not never. :-)

?Of course, instead of two curved mounting slots for adjusting the entire table, you could drill / mill just one mounting slot in the end of the cutting table's fence (the fence's curved mounting slot would be out towards the end of the fence in front of the blade), in order to then adjust only the guide fence until it is square with the blade. Same difference in the end as far as cutting straight lines.

?Just thinking out loud. Food for thought. :-)