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Hi Dave

A blade pretty much cuts in the direction the blade body is pointing. If it cuts to one side then the blade body probably is pointing to that side UNLESS the teeth are damaged, the undamaged side cuts when the damaged side doesn't cut so quickly and so it veers off to the side?with?the sharper teeth.

With an identical setup to a blade that cut well from new in the past and that you hadn't adusted?the angle of the blade body recently, I'd suspect the new blade is damaged on one side.??

Replacing a side guide roller CAN upset the direction the blade body points, if you change the clearance between the blade and side guide rollers when doing so.? The type of adjusters that do this, are the ones where you have to release the eccentric shaft to change to the bearing.? The ones with a circlip to retain the bearing on its shaft are not affected. This happens because the?blade?is being twisted by the guide assemblies, so it slants across the gap between the 2 rollers.? Wider gap = more slant, and blade cuts away from the vice.

Manuals call for zero to 0.001" clearance, i.e. 25-26thou" gap between rollers.? Set the gap with feeler gauges not the blade if you can. John Pitkin advised about 0.007" gap to stop swarf from shock-load destroying the bearings esp. if you are?using cutting fluid which makes swarf stick to the blade, carrying?it into the roller-to-blade nip.? I set mine 0.001" and use a blade scraper, and believe this is the best setting if you don't use lube when cutting steel.? (aluminium is too soft to damage?the bearings)

Question: Did you change the bearing before or after trying the new blade?? If it cut at a slant before you changed the bearing, and you hadn't adjusted for damage recently, then you can be pretty sure the blade is at fault, though I'd have to say it is unusual for a new blade to act this way as blade-making is pretty sophisticated these days and welding and weld-flash grinding faults are about the only things I've come across, even for supposedly poorer quality blades.

If you changed the roller before trying the new blade and it's of the type described then check that first.??

One last thought - it could be that your roller gap was larger and the saw set up to cut square like that, and after changing the bearing you are now running a tighter gap, in which case the blade will cut toward the?vice.?Check the gap on the guide assembly you didn't touch, to see what that is.? It may be an indicator - jv

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