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Re: Entire head coming down at an angle?


 

Hi all
Mark's?idea does work!?
It corrects mis-manufactured saws where the head comes down at an angle to the vice table!
This is a game changer for all those saws that never cut properly and for ones with worn?pivot shaft?bearings.
I have a Paykel RF128 saw that would only cut vertically square with a 1mm spacer stuck down the LHS of the vice table. Test cuts without the strip showed it was out-of-square to 0.011" per inch of cut (0.003"/" is a good standard) and you could see it wasn't square by eye.?
At the first try now it?cuts 0.0013"/".? Pretty good by any standard and the process is so controllable,?it would be easy to take a bit more off and get it close to zero!
Besides filing a ~1mm (0.040") relief on the pivot saft at the LH pivot shaft bearing in the base casting and drilling & tapping M6 grubscrew?(see photos), I had to flatten the vice table with a file (was just a bit hollow) and ease the diameter of the pivot shaft with a strip of 240g then 600g wet&dry at the LH end because it was tight on the pivot arm?casting.?
I needed an aluminium drift to knock out the pivot shaft so as not to swell the end of it. I didn't have to block up the sawframe?casting (didn't even take off the blade or guard) it balanced quite nicely on the saw stop bolt with 1/2" rod through the ears to stabilise it while I?filed the shaft (NB theres a ~1/4" long tube spacer over the pivot shaft between the RHS of the sawframe casting and the base casting that you have to slide the shaft into each time!).??
It needed a 3/4" wide relief halfway around the shaft that was 1mm deep in the middle tapering to nothing at halfway),??though when I reassembled and tested this was not quite deep enough by about 0,17 mm (0.007").? It was easy to file with a?5/8" drill stop collar on the shaft (the pivot shaft is 5/8" not 15mm like? I said earlier), but looked a mess before I used the collar.
The pivot bearings are now in the sawframe and the pivot arm castings. They're?almost twice as wide as the originals and unworn. There was enough wiggle room, of the pivot shaft in the old bearings on the base casting, to just?file one side of the pivot shaft??

The process is:?
1. Set the blade body square to the vice table (6" rule clipped?to the blade body) before you measure any squareness.?
2. Get some planed-4-sides 1x4" softwood joinery timber?as test?stock to do the vertical cuts. 2x4 construction lumber is normally not straight/parallel enough and twice as thick as you need so is slower.? Don't use?metal.
3. Find out how much you need to raise one end or the other of the test stock to get it to cut square, use strips of different shim (use a soft mallet to seat the test stock on the strips in a nipped-up vice).? This is the amount you need to file off the underside of pivot shaft at the same end as the shim is stacked?
4. File the relief
5? Drill&tap?for a grubscrew?in the upper side of the base casting ear, file a flat for the grubscrew?on the pivot?shaft 180deg away?from the deepest point of the relief
6. Reassemble and test squareness
?- jv

?


On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 11:58 AM John Vreede via <vreededesign=[email protected]> wrote:
Wow Mark!?
Yes I'm pretty sure this will work.??
From OEM, the pivot shaft is locked in the sawframe casting with a grubscrew?,or maybe a roll pin for some folks, and the shaft rotates in the base casting ears.??
Removing this?grubscrew/roll pin, so the pivot shaft can rotate in the sawframe ears and immobilising the pivot shaft in the base casting ears with a grubscrew from the top of the ear downward after taking a skim?off one side of the pivot shaft at the proper end, will correct the out-of-parallel.?
It's a permanent fix that will restore accuracy to any saw with?only?handtools!? You can use a file or a bench?grinder to remove material from one side of the shaft in the area of one of the base casting bearing?ears, because it's?not depending on the 'ground out' area for the accuracy?of the pivot.? Brilliant!??
If you remove little bit too much, rotating the shaft can bring it to perfect alignment albeit at the expense of realigning the horizontal squareness a fraction (this is done at the joint between the pivot arm casting and the sawframe casting at the LHS back and is independent of the pivot and its bearings). The bearings will be wider apart than OEM, so will?make the pivoting action more stable and accurate than OEM.
This will also work for people who have worn bearings in their base casting ears.? The shaft never rotated in the sawframe ears so those bearing surfaces will still be perfect.
You don't need to remove the sawframe?casting from the base to? modify the pivot shaft.? Just block the sawframe up from the base in the horizontal position at about the balance point and you can remove the shaft easily.? I've done it this way a few times.? It's unstable if there is no pivot shaft, but if you use another smaller shaft (say 1/2" or 9/16" diameter) to tap out the original it is safe.
What I thought of as the?worst possible fault that was v. difficult to fix, suddenly becomes something anyone can do relatively easily with tools everyone has got.
I'll? try it on?an RF128 I've got that's?pretty bad and let everyone know. - jv??

On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 8:03 AM Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...> wrote:
I just had another thought.? As an alternative to drilling/tapping 2-3 holes on the side that is highest, drill/tap ONE hole on the other side, on the very top of the fixed part of the hinge.? ?In addition to being turned down a bit, the pin on that side will have a drilled/tapped hole so a bolt can be run through the hole in the hinge and pull the pin UP.? This also will fix the pin in place, no added "slop" (but would remove the ability to correct for a horizontal alignment problem).? If need be, a bit of shim could be put in there to get the vertical alignment dead on.? I'm not saying it would be easy to shim, but if there's motivation there's going to be a way.

Since the bandsaw head will have to be removed anyway in order to remove and replace the pin, either side of the hinge can be modified this way.?

Caveat:? This is all speculative.? Based on examination of my own band saw, my gut feeling is that it could work; and it won't make it impossible to go back to the saw's original state if it doesn't pan out.

Mark

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