Hi Steve
You're right there is only one plane you can move the table with a screw into the back of the slot - and thats the right plane!
Its kinda counterintuitive and I was really unsure that it would work before I tried it
In the picture below it shows where I'm putting the two socket headed M5 grubscrews, one 12mm on either side of the middle line of the guide arm.? I chose the 2 screws over one bigger central one because I can bury them both below the face of the casting and so they don't foul the clamping screws, though the casting is thick enough for one short M8 grubscrew. Find the centreline by eye with a 6" rule against the clamping screw hole and scribe a line on the casting.? Don't be more than 12mm from that with M5 screws or they might not be in the 32mm slot.? I think 1/2" from the centre with 3/16" setscrews will be too wide and there's a chance they''ll come out in the wall of the slot
I've drawn a circle with a dot in the centre for where you would put a single grubscrew, since your table tilts the other way from mine.
Just be careful how tight you make the clamping screws, as, with a set screw pushing the guide am away from the back of the slot,? the clamping pressure is bending the cast iron arm.? No problem with a hand tightened clamping screw but since I never adjust the lower guide and want maximum rigidity, I replaced my clamp screws with M12 and they can snap the cast iron easily.? Now I know it works I think I'll? put in a few extra screws on either side of where the clamp bolts sit.
Same goes for the upper guide arm where I will put in a series of setscrews down each side close enough to take the clamping load without damaging the guide arm. set the position of the guide arm to travel parallel to the blade back with the most distant screw, then clamp lightly and screw all the others into contact to form a flat plane with the tips of the screws.? I'll use dome points, not cone or sharp pointed screws - jv
John Vreede