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Re: Drive belt tension
Interesting discussion.? My suggestion would be to use
a raw edge "cog" type belt.? "AX" section in
most listings.? These transmit more power for several reasons, one
being that the lower part of the belt doesn't bulge out as much when
wrapped to a small radius.
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The original point of the "L" belts (light duty) was to work better on small pulleys than the A belts of the day.? Today, for most purposes, AX belts are a better solution.? (Perhaps an exception is when the belt is used as a clutch). Opinions seem to vary widely on link belts.? I would only use them where changing a conventional belt is a big hassle.? Of for temporary emergency use. My own experience is that Taiwanese machines from the 80s came with crappy belts, and often with pulleys not running true.? Nowadays most belts seem to be made in Asia.? Many belts sold as "A" seem to actually be 13 mm and raid high in grooves. JMHOa. At 04:42 PM 8/22/2020 -0500, you wrote: If you have access to the actual original factory drawings of the 2, 3 or 4 step V-pulleys typically used on machine tools, you may find that the V-angle is smaller on the smallest diameter step than it is on the largest.?? And that in the case of 3 or 4-step ones, the angle(s) on the in-between steps are in between.?? This is to compensate for the ID being wider when the belt is bent around a smaller diameter.?? Whether this is true of the Taiwan and/or Chinese made pulleys on the 4x6 band saws, I don?€?t know.?? I?€?ve never looked at any of them that closely.?? They should be but may or may not be.?? I?€?ll skip commenting on link-belts versus V-belts. |
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