You¡¯re welcome Darren!
Happy to help!
Always nice when ¡®off the shelf¡¯ parts will work. Not uncommon with old US iron.
30 thou over nominal on the ID sounds perfect!
(When off the shelf doesn¡¯t apply, owning? lathe & a mill are extremely handy) ;)
Look forward to hearing your progress! Good ol¡¯ America iron!
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HO HO HO!
Bill
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From: 4x6bandsaw@... [mailto:4x6bandsaw@...]
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2018 12:24 PM
To: 4x6bandsaw@...
Subject: Re: [4x6bandsaw] Re: Bainbridge blade guides
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Well, I THINK I found what I needed on McMaster Carr. We'll see once they show up.
Thanks Bill!!
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Oil-Embedded Thrust Bearing, 5/8" Inside Diameter, 1-1/2" OD, 1/8" Thickness
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Shoot. No such thing as TMI as far as I'm concerned! :) I enjoy hearing of the experiences of others. Thanks!!!
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[Attachment(s) from Bill Armstrong included below]
Hi Daren,
For a 5/8¡± shaft, about .030¡± over on the ID of the thrust-washer would be a normal design criteria. In the grand scheme of things, .060¡± oversize wouldn¡¯t matter on any low RPM designs like a band saw. You may be seeing some wear
on the old one. Myself, I¡¯d shoot for the .030¡±, and I¡¯d think ¡®store bought¡¯ thrust bearings for a 5/8¡± shaft would mostly be just that. Again¡.the design would be very forgiving in low RPM designs.
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660, or 932 (same thing) is the most common bearing grade bronze. 841, or Oilite, is sintered bronze, making it porous so as to hold oil.
Both are used in a lot of power tools¡.among many other things. For a band saw, I¡¯d go with 660 (932), unless there was some life problem. 660 has a bit better yield strength than 841.
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Sometimes you have to get into the heavy duty, due to clearance restrictions, or, for whatever reason(s), you have early failures.
I used to design & make a lot of bearings with 954 (aluminum bronze) which is harder and tougher than 660.
Also designed & made bearings from 863 (manganese bronze) which is stronger yet, but less pleasant to work with. ?
Used both the above often, to improve bearing life, and still make it a direct replacement to the OEM 660 part. ?(attached example)
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There¡..TMI¡.sorry about that¡..
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Merry Christmas!
Bill
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Bill,
Thanks for the information and confirmation. I must have been having a bad day. You're spot on about the ID. Once I stepped away from the washer and measured the shaft, the OD of the shaft is .625", thus the ID of the washer needs to be at least that..... DUH!
Using a different set of calipers, I can confirm, the "good" washer's ID is .688. Which causes me to ask, is the difference between shaft OD and thrust washer ID wear on the thrust, or intentional clearance? (I am told I "pick nits", feel free to advise me
if I am doing so here.)
Thanks for the link and transfer of knowledge on the 660 vs 841. I've never messed with thrust washers before so this is all a great education. :)
Thanks and Merry Christmas!
---In 4x6bandsaw@..., <bill_1955@...> wrote :
Looking at the pic Darren, they look a bit larger on the ID than .4¡± (10mm)
Check that dim, and take a look at McMaster Car & see if anything they have will work.
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Also looking at the pic, they appear to be 841 by their color.
841 is synonymous with Oilite, or oil impregnated bronze.
That¡¯s just a guess¡.pics can be deceiving depending on the light.
Since they are in an oiled gearbox, 841 seems a bit redundant, and I would think 660 would work fine.
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Bill
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[Attachment(s) from Darren McCarley included below]
Need a bit of help finding some thrust washers. At least I think they are thrust washers. I'm looking for 2 non-ferrous washers that measure 38mm od, 10mm id, and 3mm thick. (1.5"od, .4" id, .1" thick). These go in the gear box. One between the drive sprocket
and case and the other between the final bearing and worm gear. (This one was completely trashed, as was the roller bearing.) Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm needing. These don't look to be brass. Bronze maybe??
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Well, the new cam followers and blade back bearing came in. The cam followers were maybe .01 bigger in diameter but that was an easy fix w/ some fine filing. Thanks for the suggestions!! Next up is replacing all 7 roller bearings, a couple of seals, a few thrust
bearings, finish cleaning up the main body, prime, paint, and reassemble. This thing is FINALLY coming?together. :) I'll post pics and a bit of a write up once completed. While I doubt anyone else needs the part numbers, I'll post the part numbers I've used.
Heck, I might need them later. :)
You guys continue to rock! Thanks for the help, inspiration, and support!!
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Yes, it came through.? I think I will try the version made from aluminum and blade pieces, it seems that would work well.
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Just reloaded the pdf file, let me know if it works this time - jv
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