Greetings. I am not new to Ham Radio, although I have not had a license until now. I am going for my Technician License now, then my General. A friend is sending me his FT-301D, FP-301D and other items. He doesn't use it any more.

I am looking at Mods, Hacks, etc. and came across this video:



Further investigation revealed others who have created VFO's for their own radios.

I am going to build this and try it as an external VFO and replace the need for the Crystals. Or, I may make a dual-output version and plug in both an external VFO and a Crystal oscillator.

Thanks James,

I realize after seeing that listing on eBay that he had indeed purchased one from Earl in 2014 - it was only $14.95 back then...

Regards,

Brian

Hello!

I'm trying to repair and FT-301 for the widow of a silent key so it can be sold. I found documentation showing the power switch died with the power on, so for a time he turned it on with the power supply.

Anybody have a switch to sell or know where one can be found?

Thank you,

Brian

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Great idea!? I'm going to add that to mine. Thanks!

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Great idea, now find my old broken ones to harvest center pins.

Randy

Thanks all and for the tip of the fasteners from K4EAA.? I ordered a couple and they came quickly.? The socket end breaks and the posts become loose and fall out.? I put in only the socket from the K4EAA fasteners and used the original posts and they fit perfectly and are like the original low profile just like new.? :-)

I used k4Eaa fasteners, perfect except taller.

Check out this link.? See if the see if the size and dimensions work out, they come in black.? Maybe we could set up a group purchase and divide a few up if it looks like they might work.

https://www.mcmaster.com/plastic-rivets/shank-style~pin-lock/

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K4EAA's site was listing them. His widow is running things for the time being; email them via the Contact info link and see if they can help.

I'd also try Earl Andrews (Netty Electronics).

73 - Fred, N8YX

Hi all,

As I stated in another thread; I am also a curious soul who wanted to get an FP-301D CW IDer working; although I took the different route of reverse engineering the basic format. Then I found that Randy/W7CPA got the Japanese manual with the programming table. It verified what I'd figured out with the exception of giving me bit lengths to work with.?I am planning on writing a small simple utility in Python (or some other language possibly) that will generate the binary data you need to write to an EPROM/EEPROM that should work with some logic level circuitry. There's also no reason this same data wouldn't be useful on the original style PROM. Data is data...you flip addresses on and you get data out. Everything else is just TTL vs CMOS and open collector vs tri-state.?

Thus far, I've made a table of letters and numbers that contain the bits needed:?

I also...using my own list...worked out "de nq4t" by hand:

75 10 1D D7 15 1C 70 00

Yes, that's all in hex. This the first thing I have to figure out the best way to handle. All the numbers and letters are varying bit-lengths and due to being time-code, you can't really just pad things between letters. You could, sure. The only real limitation you have is 8 bits of "0" triggers it to reset the ID circuit. Even the sheets say you can use fewer or more blanks between letters/words as long as you remember that rule. I think there might be a better way of doing it...because at this point I haven't even written any software...all the binary and hex I'm producing was figured out in my head.?

As you can see we actually came up with 7 bytes and a nibble. So what I'll need to do is have my software do is just pad everything out to fit evenly in bytes.

With a pre-defined table it's mostly just a case of text processing. That's not easy to do in Python so it'll take me some free time to figure it out.

I have also considered modding things to replace the 74188 and 74151 with just something like a 28256 EPROM. This would be rather easy to do by tying the address lines for the 74151 to the lower address bits and use the 74188's as the higher address bits. There's more than enough space to waste in a 256kbit EPROM; it would just make programming a LOT more difficult since rather than storing time code as bytes...you'd have to store them as specific addressing. It might be easier to just outright replace all the logic (keyer and clock) with a microcontroller too.

But I'll still get some imaging creating software done since I'll need it for my development/hacks.

73,
Jay/NQ4T

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Good stuff, keep those geezers running.
I am off on other projects for a while now.

Randy
W7CPA

I have no clue how I missed this group/thread other than I may have been too excited to do a thing before needed to know if I had to do a thing.

I got one of these with a FT-301D and FV-301D and since I do a lot of work on old embedded/arcade stuff...I work with parallel EPROMS all the time. So I sat down a few hours ago with the schematic and basically reverse engineered that the data was timecode with sequential addressing. Actually...the minute I saw the 74151 and 7493s I started guessing when they said "time-code" in the US manual they literally meant time-code.

Anyway...the only thing I hadn't worked out was the bit length of various things, which now that I've got? the Japanese manual with that information I'll have zero guesswork when doing a mockup. I might try to write a python application that will generate an image file that'll work with image burners. I'm also considering if my clock chip doesn't work just replacing everything with an Arduino and RTC module.

73,
Jay/NQ4T

Thank you all for your informations, I decided to sell the FT-301D?

for little money to a ham, who is trying to put new life to the trx :-)?

73 from Vienna, good DX !?

Othmar OE1SOW