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And the arrow… 

Nice looking board! I agree with the hole-size concern. Looks like you have a sliver (see the arrow), so you might want to try using multiple passes and/or going over the board with an Xacto knife.

your drill sizes are too big, do you have a smaller drill ?? those header pads will struggle to hold together and you'll be relying on solder a lot

Alright, after almost a month, finally created my first layout using etching, drilling and milling (to cut out the boar).? Now this is my test run to see if everything lines up.? Now that it does, I

You must have both the board and schematic open at the same time. Make changes on the schematic, and the board will follow, ditto with adding or deleting parts. However, when you rewire something in

Hi, first of all, you have to check if f/b annotation is active or severed (almost sure is severed), to fix that you have to back to schematic or board (this time just open one of two files) (that

Made a schematic and then tried the board. Gave autoroute a go and got a reasonable board. Problem is there are areas I have made errors on both the board and schematic. Trying to undo and go back I

No problems milling SMD boards so far (picture attached).? Just very tedious to place components by hand and get the right amount of solder.? I use solder past thinned with liquid flux - this is

Okay, no one actually gave the settings that could have saved me days so I will post what I used to save someone else time and frustration. while using a .1 mm 30 degree V bit, I used: Single pass

Sorry for the multiple responses. I appreciate your suggestions and will give your approach a try. Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 11:06 AM To: '[email protected]' Subject: RE: [pcbgcode] Can only get

I do not use smd. Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 11:05 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: [pcbgcode] Can only get a single isolation pass around tracks I tried autoleveler and concluded (maybe

I tried autoleveler and concluded (maybe wrongly) that the PCB board high spots were the result of very minor warpage, not inconsistencies in the materials’ thickness. As a result, I reasoned, when

Assume that you not use SMD on your PCB as etching with 0.9 mm…. Autoleveler is perfect to correct the copper default. I use 2 flutes V type 60° dia 0.127 mm with 0.05 mm depth and it is not

A vacuum table with a leveled top is indeed a good approach. However, that only ensures that the BOTTOM of the board is level. In my experience, not all FR4 is consistent in thickness. Remember that

can you post image of your vacuo system?

My approach is to use a small vacuum table with a sacrificial MDF top, leveled in-situ. No need to use an autoleveler - the vacuum ensures the FR4 is absolutely flat and tight to the surface and has

My approach is very similar to Sam’s, but three differences that I believe help: 1. Immediately before cutting a PCB, I pre-level my sacrifice board, which is MDF. I believe that the MDF warps over

Use "Autoleveller" it will save you a lot of time and give you consistent track thicknesses.

Hi Albert, You might try my single pass etch approach, which I now use for all of my boards.? I setup pcb-gcode to do a singe pass etch for all traces and shapes.? After completion, I inspect the

So I deleted the polygons on both sides and then added them back and connected them to ground again and now I get multiple passes around the tracks. Aaargh! I hate software. But which software do I