Hammond B200 and Leslie 415
Hi, I have a Hammond B200 with Leslie 415. When turned on the B200 is very soft and takes a few minutes to begin operating at full volume. This is usually preceded by a pop sound. Does anyone have any ideas please and also should I fix this does anyone know how reliable this instrument is likely to be. Thank you Lynne
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Keyboard Parts
All. Not a Hammond question. Anyone on this email list in keyboard Repair in general? Looking for parts, system board for a Rhapsody 3 Digital Piano made by Williams, once sold by Guitar Center. Any ideas where to locate one? Thanks in advance. Norm Erwin
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Hammond A100 reverb hum
8
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated. This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb. Thanks in advance, Di.....
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Contact pins denominations
5
Hi, does anyone know how the male and female contact pins that populated those plastic plug cases in newer Hammonds are denominated, and if there's any chance to source them as new in Germany or the EU? Best regards!
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A-100 Tone out conclusion
4
This was a bear for an old guy like me but Victory! I am submitting notes in the hope they can help someone else in the future. Customer's original complaint was F#3 sounded kind of hollow. I found that with only the 8' drawbar out there was no sound on that one note. Also, with the 4' F#2 was out and with 16' F#4. It was the same on both keyboards. One tone was not sounding. With help from the list, I learned it was tone #43 that was out. With another tip from the list, I put a clip lead from there to a drawbar that was pushed out and had tone! So I figured, hoped that it was just a broken wire. Well it was but what a project. I took off the top/music rack then unbolted the keyboards. As I was advised, you need to protect the wood sides if you going to lift the keyboards. My wife does a bit of laminating and I had her take 2 full sheets of card stock and laminate them. They were perfect and I used blue painters tape to hold them in place. I removed 2 bolts on top (long screws) and 2 bolts below in front. There are 2 more bolts in the back. Problem is the reverb tank is in the way for one. The reverb tank is mounted on 2 metal brackets. The brackets are easy to remove with 4 screws at the back of the cabinet. Took out the tank and removed the bolts. There is also a small bracket under the front of the keyboard with 2 wood screws in the rail and 2 machine screws in the base of the lower keyboard. I removed that. I found that I could reach under the keyboard and push it up. I got a couple of wood blocks 4 ( 3/4"x3/4"x 9") and pushed up from underneath with one hand on the upper keyboard and with the other pushed the block in at the end. This is the first time I have done this so I approached this very slowly and carefully. When you tilt up the upper keyboard you can see the wires going to the tabs on the upper keyboard, with second wires going down to the lower keyboard. I ASSUMED THE TABS MATCHED THE KEYS. THEY DO NOT! I ran a new wire from what I assumed was the correct tab to the tone but that did not fix it. I reluctantly started cutting the cotton string bundling of the wires. I cut as little as possible until I could follow the one wire. As I pulled it through I could see where it was broken off. I don't think I ever would have seen it no matter how much light I got in there or how close I looked. Once I found it, it was obvious. I soldered my extra wire (a stranded wire) to the tab and all is good. Of course I covered the lower keyboard with cardboard to protect it from my solder and soldering iron. These black wires in the bundle from the generator to the keyboards are solid wire. If you do not lock down the generator before moving it, I imagine it does not much time at all for those wires to begin breaking. I hope this will help someone. It was a physically difficult repair (at least for someone who is 70) but I am glad I was able to get it. Rich Reid 208-861-9263
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B3 Thump, Thump Thump
21
HI Guys, I have had a thumping sound from my B3 for awhile. So I replaced all the tubes and installed a Tone Wheel General Hospital "refresh" ( various resistors and capacitors) kit. That improved the sound, ......better lows. My work didn't fix the "Thump, thump, thump" I hear. It has a frequency about 5 to 10 hz. ( same as vibrato scanner?) The Thump is present when I play the B3 through a Leslie 122 or a "Burn" Leslie Sim also. (I have to say the lower octave or so sounds terrible (clipped) through the Burn thing!) Has anyone out there had this Thumping prob or know how to fix it? Thanks, John in Brooklyn The repeated thump
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Starting helper resistor in A-100
9
Actually a chopped C3, but start- and runmotor have been dropped in bringing a modified genny with a belt driven gear ( so called German Bertram motor modification) back to stock. They took out even the start motor and replaced the run motor with that motor gear box where the tooth belt used to wear out over the decades. Also R87 is missing. Now the schematics for the A100 say R87 to be 250 Ohms (1000) in parens. What now? ¡ª Christoph
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A-100
4
Hi all, I have an A-100 with a tone out. 8¡¯ F#3 is missing. That tone is out on both manuals and 4¡¯ on F#2 and 16¡¯ on F#4. The tone is #43 and it is good coming out of the generator. I am thinking (hoping) a broken wire at the keyboard end. The connection at the generator end is good. I can¡¯t see where these wires, the bundle of black wires, terminate. From the schematic they connect to the upper manual and jumper to the lower. I have removed the top, music stand. I have unscrewed the switch plate with the drawbar assy. And tilted it up. I still can¡¯t see where those wires connect. Do I need to completely removed the keyboards? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have repaired quite a few preamps and wiring problems but never removed the manuals. That looks like a large project. thanks Rich Reid 208-861-9263 Groups.io Links: You receive all messages sent to this group. View/Reply Online (#82896) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [[email protected]] _._,_._,_
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Power rating of a 9" x 6"?
4
Hi, I have a complete Rotosonic unit that came from a Concorde I've scrapped last year. As I intend to mate it with a AO-68 that I've converted into a (fine sounding, btw) guitar amplifier, I need to know the speaker's power rating. Can anybody help me, please? Best regards!
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I modified a Trek II TP-2B unit
Hello, prior to installing a TP-2B percussion unit into my C-2 that has been sitting on my shelves for almost two decades, I stumbled over the sentence that no wire goes to the 8th drawbar anymore. Well, this would mean that this drawbar remains inactive forever, regardless if percussion is activated or not. I decided that I won't live with that. So I took a double throw sliding switch that I had robbed from a scrapped Colonnade or similar organ, made a rectangular hole and two screw holes into the TP-2B cover, another hole into the PCB that allows me to route two wires, provided an additional wire and wired the whole assembly in a way that percussion is off, but drawbar #8 is active with the switch slid to the left and percussion on/drawbar off at the right hand position. Here are a few photos of my mod: Best regards!
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Factory preset panel settings
16
Hi guys, back to my beautiful C-2 again. Yesterday I've noticed that two upper manual presets sound exactly the same. So anyone must have altered one of both, or even more, presets in the past 70 years. This means I need to check and readjust all presets. But how? Is there any list somewhere of the factory settings, how they are called, and to which drawbar levels they do correspond? I'm aware of the one in the Concorde 2100 service manual, page 2-9, but, hey, that's not a tonewheel beast. Best regards and a beautiful weekend to all of you!
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Replacing a dead tone in a TWG
7
Hi, currently I'm working on a TTR-100 that has been horribly neglected previously. Due to a missing power cable I didn't have the chance to play the organ before I bought it, but as I paid little money for it, who cares? At home again I made a suitable cable and powered the organ. Oh, not a single tone present, no TWG running noise from the inside! And yes, I found a stuck TWG. The TWG main shaft turned hardly by hand, but the motor was running freely after I had removed the spring link. Anyway, due to it's two part cabinet design, I'd like to restore and keep it. I oiled the organ with a 50:50 mixture of Hammond oil and lighter fluid and returned to the organ about once a week. And yes, some day the motor managed to spin the main shaft again. But about one third of the tones were missing, and the TWG squealed awfully. And there was no vibrato at all. After another two weeks or so the squeal was gone, but more tones were dead and the vibrato still was inoperative. So I decided to pull the TWG from the organ (the most awful job I've ever done, I swear. The three generators that I previously had removed from two A-100's and my beloved C-2 were easy-peasy, compared to this one!) and haul it onto my workbench. Yes, about one third of the wheel pairs didn't spin, which I could fix with squirts of WD40 and drops of oil successfully. But the scanner was still frozen. So I removed it from the TWG, disassembled and rebuilt it, also with success. As I had measured and documented the three TWG's previously, I decided to do the same procedure on this one also before reinstalling it. What a luck! I found a dead tone #53 due to an open pickup coil. Yes, unfortunately it's the coil, nothing else, as I found unfinite ohms right between it's soldering lugs. What to do now? The TWG isn't repairable, at least not for me. I have two more spinets, a T500 and a T-562, and I won't keep them both. but their generators are of another construction. Both feature that drum shaped vibrato scanner next to the motor, while the TTR-100 TWG has the pan shaped scanner at the opposite end, as seen from the motor (right hand side when you look into the open back). So this won't be a comfortable job, I'm afraid, as I suppose those mains shafts are missing the connecting wheel for a pan shaped scanner. Tone #53 is the E one fifth above the standard pitch A, if I did my maths correctly, with a frequency of 660 Hz. This is right in the middle of the most important fundamental octave. So I need to generate this frequency by another way. I seem to remember that I've once found a circuit in the WWW about twenty years ago (was it by Bob Schleicher?), but it apparently has disappeared in the meantime. Basic principle was to derive the missing frequency from the same tone just one octave above by converting to square wave, frequency dividing by means of a RS flipflop, and sine filtering. I know of the Trek II GNR-1a tone replacement, but two hundred bucks plus S/H and customs fees and taxes well exceeds the value of this organ. So it isn't an option. Does anyone of you guys have this schematics and want to share it with me? Best regards!
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Strange vibrato/chorus behaviour of my C-2 organ
11
Hi, at the moment I'm in the process of reassembling my beloved C-2 organ that has undergone some TLC by me. Yesterday evening I noticed that neither chorus nor vibrato works in none of the selector positions. Strangely enough, both manuals sounded with Vibrato off as well as with Vibrato on. This morning I checked all wiring connections, without any result. After reinstalling the shielding beneath the Volume and Vibrato tabs, I noticed the short piece of cable that connects the shielding to the vibrato switch assembly was lose. Yes, I had to remove this assembly previously 'cause one of the drawbar assembly hex nuts had fallen into it. After I connected the lug again, the vibrato did work. Surprise, surprise! Why does the vibrato behave like that? I can't see any ground connections next to the vib switch assembly in the schematics?? Best regards!
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Removing flywheel from a run motor shaft
Hello, today I found a torn wick from the oil tub to the run motor front bearing. Well, finally I got it replaced, but I almost broka my fingers during this awkward procedure. I used a dentist's tweezers to wind the new thread around the bushing groove and do the knot. I didn't see by no way how I could have pulled the flywheel from the motor shaft which, of course, would have made the job much more convenient. There's that big thrust bearing ball in the middle of the wheel, but it's stuck, hence I couldn't use a small puller. And there's a small hole from the side, but no set screw within. How can the flywheel be removed from the motor shaft? Best regards!
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Please allow me to introduce myself...
Hello@all, ...I'm a man of distinctive taste :-). Under another moniker (MenrathU, IIRC) I've been around for a long, long years when Hammondzone was still part of Yahoo groups. And I've been active at the clonewheel board also (btw, where's ths one gone?). Some of my interests are BMW airhead motorcycles, old cars, especially Citroens, electronics, especially tube gear, and I know a thing or two about German Dual turntables that I collect. I'm also active in some American forums that deal with audio electronics and JBL speakers. And, of course, I'm fanatic in music that challenges my brain, e. g. classical, jazz, progressive rock etc. My Hammond passion comminced when I bought a (supposedly) 1961 A-100 and a 147 Leslie (as per it's badge) with 122 amplifier (so actually it was a 122...) twenty years ago. It had the immanent issue with it' wax paper filter capacitors. So I decided to replace them by foil types that I had individually selected for resonance and recalibrated the TWG with the Hammond sound of progressive keyboardists (Keith Emerson, Rick Wakeman...) in mind. Finally, I sold the organ in 2013 to a young musician, keyboardist of www.organ-explosion.de from Munich. According to his wishes I had removed both power amplifiers, all speakers to enlighten the organ a little bit, installed a Trek II reverberation unit and heavily modified the Leslie connector kit that had come with the organ so that he was able to play and control both a 117 Vac 122 and 230 Vac 147 simultaneously. My actual inventory is a TTR-100, a T-200 that is missing it's swell pedal, a T-522 whose generator supposedly never has been oiled (it is horribly loud and the oil pen that had come with the organ was stil sealed) and a beautiful first hand C-2 that I bought last year from a church at Hamburg. I immediatley had fallen in love with this beautiful quatrefoil enclosure when I noticed the ad. It came with two JR-20 tone cabinets that the church had bought together with the C-2, so I assume they were all made in 1951 (but I'm not sure, of course). Last year I also bought the T-200, both the other spinets I hauled some weeks ago. All three spinets were cheap, so who cares? The C-2 is the reason why I returned to hammondzone, 'cause it' got some issues. I'll start one thread or another about these. So long, Uwe
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Hammond BV to ????
21
I got a call today to hook up a Neo Ventilator, (which I have never seen one) to a BV with a Hammond speaker. Can anyone direct me to a site which shows' demos on hooking them up or give me instructions to do so. Thanks in advance, Jim Mc.
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C-3 to 21H
3
Ive just picked up a C-3 with no speaker. It has a 122 kit installed. Local to me Ive found a 21H that according to the owner is all original and works fine. However he also says its been unplayed in 7 years and he has no way to demo it. Luckily i have a trek II pedal so I can fire it up before I buy it My questions are- Is a 21H a straight plug and play install to a 122 kit or do I need to alter the lit/organ or kit? Are there common issues with a 21H, besides it¡¯s age, that I need to check out? Thanks for any advice!
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B3+122
6
Hi folks, I normally fix synthesisers and sometimes the odd Rhodes Wurlitzer Pianet or Clavinet. When it comes to Hammond's I have dealt with T200 and L100 successfully. The thing is I have tiny workshop and now I'm asked to figure out the hum problem with B3 and L122 cab. To be fair I can't realistically imagine moving the B3 with Leslie 122 to my workshop for troubleshooting. I'm based in Europe and the hum is 50+100+150 Hz so clearly it's either grounding issue or PSU filtration issue. I don't have spare "Leslie" connector to make a dummy cable and fire up the speaker on it's own. I suspect the Leslie more then the B3 itself is the problem. How would you triangulate the issue if you were me?
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Hammond T200
2
Heres a Question about My T200. I have a C3,T200,TTR,Concorde,B300 and a XE2. So im not a tonewheel or valve snob,every organ has its merits and downfalls. Now i know the T200 has a lot of downfalls to some.But there are some modifications that can be done. In my instance ,the T series has bass that is available at 16` or 8` pitch.But they are not available togetherr.It has a rocker switch with 16` on one side and 8` on the other.I would like the 8` on its own but like the 8` to then combine with the 16`. Has anyone seen or tried a modification to acheive this?
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Ref X77 - new sound distortion from the X77 Leslie
2
Hello to all ...and let's hope a happy new year ...although this is yet to be determined. As we are all literally being forced into a different way of life, I, fortunately, have the luxury of having access to musical instruments, one of which is an X77, which I have had for perhaps 20 years, and never really played since I was much younger and played organ almost daily. This X77 has always had problems with contacts, primarily drawbars, hence I was always reluctant to sit down and play for fear of disappointment when adjusting drawbars. Scratching sound, partial loss of notes, full loss of notes ...I think you all know the problem. I just stripped the X77 apart and fully serviced the drawbars ...and they are now better than they have ever been before ...ever. During this 100% disassembly and full cleaning, I noticed three different types of greases (lubrication) used ...inconsistently throughout (contacts, bars, and housing), which leads me to think perhaps some servicing of this organ had been done prior to my ownership. But this is now all cleaned up. Drawbars are 99.99% ( I expect there may be a contact in the 368 that may not function at any one moment in time). Of course, when things get disassembled, changes can occur. I found one change that had be puzzled for about fifteen minutes. Upon full re-assembly, the pedals only, would not feed through the "echo only" channel. The pedals would feed through when both "Main" and "Echo" were operating. I found it was the "dirty contacts problem" in this switching mechanism. This got remedied. Now that the organ was fully operational (sound-wise), I was now able to focus on "sound". The "Main" channel drives the X77 Leslie. The "Echo" channel drives a 147 Leslie. An additional pre-amp is needed to fill the 147's signal requirements. I had always found something lacking from the 147 after I had completed this addition. The pre-amp has gain adjustments for bass and treble and overall output. After this drawbar servicing was just completed, the 147 performance has now in fact improved. It now will shake the room and scream. The pre-amp can be maxed in all three adjustments without any significant detection of sound distortion. However, the power is definitely not needed, so I have backed off all three adjustments to about 85%. So the Leslie 147 is back. I have had this speaker for over 50 years (through my parents). This is what I remember from my youth and playing the A100 and this Leslie ??? Now ...the problem. The sound through the "Main" channel, the X77 Leslie is full of distortion. There never has been distortion before. Even at low volume, the sound is clipping. The volume is fine. Loud is really loud, but all distortion ....and soft is really soft ...but all distortion ....regardless of the channels being used. When I serviced these drawbars, I looked at the first dozen of the contacts on the springs, under a more powerful magnifying glass. They were like snowflakes. No two of the contact surfaces were alike. Each one had varying degrees of scratching, pitting, different surface shapes (none were flat or round/convex), different areas/locations of wear, different shapes/forms of wear pattern, and different oxidized surfaces. Every contact had a fully oxidized contact surface. The only thing I can think of is these drawbar contacts have never ever made proper signal contact ...none of them. One reason why I looked at these contacts closely was due to my viewing of Bob Mann's four videos before I took on this task. Apart from the valuable information on how to disassemble the organ, it was the cleaning part that I needed information and direction on. He points out how "anul" he is, but for an instruction video to be effective, the information should be "anul" to capture all the possibilities. QUESTION 1: is it possible that for all these years, the organ has experience a resistance at these contacts, and now that they are clean, there is too much gain to the Leslie ...from all channels? QUESTION 2: If the above is correct, is there ONE primary adjustment to the Leslie (or
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