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Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910

 

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So, it looks like the guy that installed the kit (before I purchased this whole setup) didn't know what he was doing.
Kinda figures when he left the Leslie's cable connection inside the B-3!


On 1/2/2022 3:08 AM, Chris Clifton wrote:

That kit is intended for use with a spinet organ with a built in amplifier and speaker. Not ideal for connecting to a console with G-G output from the pre-amp, there never was an official passive kit for connecting a 9-pin Leslie to a console.

Did a little more digging around the Fish Organ list, this kit uses the connector box with the number you gave in your original post.

On 01/01/2022 23:18, Bob Pasky wrote:
Hi Chris,

Thanks, but the circuit is not even close. What I've got is a totally passive circuit.

I see your point about shorting the "unused" speaker, but that's not how mine works. My MEE switch
only has three wires going to it. The "center" wire connects to Main, both or Echo, depending on the
switch position.

The thing is, this used to work. But the guy that installed the kit just put the box inside the organ case,
next to the preamp. In order to connect the Leslie, you had to leave the back of the organ off. That
looked strange, so I extended wires from the box to the pedal case and put the 9-pin connector
where it's supposed to go. In doing so, I might have messed something up in the kit's wiring and
haven't found the schematic for it. This is as close as I got to the right circuit. At least, the MEE and
Tremelo switches match what I have.


-- Bob

On 1/1/2022 10:36 AM, Chris Clifton wrote:

I'm guessing that it will be similar to this one, . All the kits I've looked at for connecting 9-pin Leslies to console Hammonds seem to use the same basic circuit.

When the MEE switch is set to echo, the brown and orange wires are connected together. This effectively puts a short circuit across the input terminals of the PR-40, muting it. The two 820 ohm resistors, R2 & R3 isolate the G-G terminals of the organ from the short circuit. When thinking of MEE switching on console type organs, I find it helpful to think in terms of the switch muting the unwanted speaker, rather than enabling the wanted speaker.

To use a two channel Leslie with a single channel organ, you will need a crossover between the organ and the Leslie. These crossovers are usually built into a short piece of tube with a 9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin socket on the other. The crossover ensures that bass notes always go to the stationary channel of the Leslie and sound through the 15" speaker, only mid to high frequencies go to the rotary channel as the speakers of this channel can't handle low frequencies.

On 01/01/2022 14:49, Bob Pasky wrote:
Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ?
It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710.
I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model.

Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated
when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears
that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an
awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo.
That can't be good for the PR-40 amp.

Thanks,
-- Bob
--

Virus-free.

--


Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910

 

开云体育

That kit is intended for use with a spinet organ with a built in amplifier and speaker. Not ideal for connecting to a console with G-G output from the pre-amp, there never was an official passive kit for connecting a 9-pin Leslie to a console.

Did a little more digging around the Fish Organ list, this kit uses the connector box with the number you gave in your original post.

On 01/01/2022 23:18, Bob Pasky wrote:
Hi Chris,

Thanks, but the circuit is not even close. What I've got is a totally passive circuit.

I see your point about shorting the "unused" speaker, but that's not how mine works. My MEE switch
only has three wires going to it. The "center" wire connects to Main, both or Echo, depending on the
switch position.

The thing is, this used to work. But the guy that installed the kit just put the box inside the organ case,
next to the preamp. In order to connect the Leslie, you had to leave the back of the organ off. That
looked strange, so I extended wires from the box to the pedal case and put the 9-pin connector
where it's supposed to go. In doing so, I might have messed something up in the kit's wiring and
haven't found the schematic for it. This is as close as I got to the right circuit. At least, the MEE and
Tremelo switches match what I have.


-- Bob

On 1/1/2022 10:36 AM, Chris Clifton wrote:

I'm guessing that it will be similar to this one, . All the kits I've looked at for connecting 9-pin Leslies to console Hammonds seem to use the same basic circuit.

When the MEE switch is set to echo, the brown and orange wires are connected together. This effectively puts a short circuit across the input terminals of the PR-40, muting it. The two 820 ohm resistors, R2 & R3 isolate the G-G terminals of the organ from the short circuit. When thinking of MEE switching on console type organs, I find it helpful to think in terms of the switch muting the unwanted speaker, rather than enabling the wanted speaker.

To use a two channel Leslie with a single channel organ, you will need a crossover between the organ and the Leslie. These crossovers are usually built into a short piece of tube with a 9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin socket on the other. The crossover ensures that bass notes always go to the stationary channel of the Leslie and sound through the 15" speaker, only mid to high frequencies go to the rotary channel as the speakers of this channel can't handle low frequencies.

On 01/01/2022 14:49, Bob Pasky wrote:
Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ?
It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710.
I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model.

Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated
when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears
that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an
awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo.
That can't be good for the PR-40 amp.

Thanks,
-- Bob
--

Virus-free.

--


Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910

 

开云体育

Hi Chris,

Thanks, but the circuit is not even close. What I've got is a totally passive circuit.

I see your point about shorting the "unused" speaker, but that's not how mine works. My MEE switch
only has three wires going to it. The "center" wire connects to Main, both or Echo, depending on the
switch position.

The thing is, this used to work. But the guy that installed the kit just put the box inside the organ case,
next to the preamp. In order to connect the Leslie, you had to leave the back of the organ off. That
looked strange, so I extended wires from the box to the pedal case and put the 9-pin connector
where it's supposed to go. In doing so, I might have messed something up in the kit's wiring and
haven't found the schematic for it. This is as close as I got to the right circuit. At least, the MEE and
Tremelo switches match what I have.


-- Bob

On 1/1/2022 10:36 AM, Chris Clifton wrote:

I'm guessing that it will be similar to this one, . All the kits I've looked at for connecting 9-pin Leslies to console Hammonds seem to use the same basic circuit.

When the MEE switch is set to echo, the brown and orange wires are connected together. This effectively puts a short circuit across the input terminals of the PR-40, muting it. The two 820 ohm resistors, R2 & R3 isolate the G-G terminals of the organ from the short circuit. When thinking of MEE switching on console type organs, I find it helpful to think in terms of the switch muting the unwanted speaker, rather than enabling the wanted speaker.

To use a two channel Leslie with a single channel organ, you will need a crossover between the organ and the Leslie. These crossovers are usually built into a short piece of tube with a 9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin socket on the other. The crossover ensures that bass notes always go to the stationary channel of the Leslie and sound through the 15" speaker, only mid to high frequencies go to the rotary channel as the speakers of this channel can't handle low frequencies.

On 01/01/2022 14:49, Bob Pasky wrote:
Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ?
It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710.
I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model.

Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated
when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears
that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an
awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo.
That can't be good for the PR-40 amp.

Thanks,
-- Bob
--

Virus-free.


Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910

 

开云体育

I'm guessing that it will be similar to this one, . All the kits I've looked at for connecting 9-pin Leslies to console Hammonds seem to use the same basic circuit.

When the MEE switch is set to echo, the brown and orange wires are connected together. This effectively puts a short circuit across the input terminals of the PR-40, muting it. The two 820 ohm resistors, R2 & R3 isolate the G-G terminals of the organ from the short circuit. When thinking of MEE switching on console type organs, I find it helpful to think in terms of the switch muting the unwanted speaker, rather than enabling the wanted speaker.

To use a two channel Leslie with a single channel organ, you will need a crossover between the organ and the Leslie. These crossovers are usually built into a short piece of tube with a 9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin socket on the other. The crossover ensures that bass notes always go to the stationary channel of the Leslie and sound through the 15" speaker, only mid to high frequencies go to the rotary channel as the speakers of this channel can't handle low frequencies.

On 01/01/2022 14:49, Bob Pasky wrote:
Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ?
It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710.
I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model.

Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated
when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears
that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an
awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo.
That can't be good for the PR-40 amp.

Thanks,
-- Bob
--

Virus-free.


Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910

 

Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ?
It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710.
I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model.

Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated
when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears
that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an
awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo.
That can't be good for the PR-40 amp.

Thanks,
-- Bob


Hammond B200 and Leslie 415

 

Hi,

I have a Hammond B200 with Leslie 415. When turned on the B200 is very soft and takes a few minutes to begin operating at full volume. This is usually preceded by a pop sound. Does anyone have any ideas please and also should I fix this does anyone know how reliable this instrument is likely to be.

Thank you

Lynne


Keyboard Parts

 

All.
Not a Hammond question.
Anyone on this email list in keyboard Repair in general?

Looking for parts, system board for a Rhapsody 3 Digital Piano made by Williams, once sold by Guitar Center.

Any ideas where to locate one?

Thanks in advance.
Norm Erwin


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

My hum was caused by a too-close placement of the Leslie.

On Sunday, October 24, 2021, 10:53:05 PM GMT+2, Diayne McComis <diayne@...> wrote:


Thanks for the info.? I guess the rest of them will come shortly, however if you think of the service you get out of these beasts
that's a very low price to pay......

Di.


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

Thanks for the info.? I guess the rest of them will come shortly, however if you think of the service you get out of these beasts
that's a very low price to pay......

Di.


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

开云体育

It's what I DO!

On 10/22/2021 10:56 AM, Christoph wrote:


Thanks, Scott, for the correction in wording.
Christoph?


Am 22.10.2021 um 19:42 schrieb Scott Hawthorn <organfreak@...>:

?

These capacitors are over 60 years old and are meant to last only about 20. I would say "likely" over "probable."

On 10/22/2021 10:31 AM, Christoph wrote:

Scotts assumption is the most probable but it might also be some transformer of some addon that might have been placed near the output pickup of the reverb unit.

Christoph?


Am 22.10.2021 um 19:02 schrieb Scott Hawthorn <organfreak@...>:

?

Bad filter cap can in the reverb amp. You'll need to call a tech if you're not comfortable replacing it. Replacement available at tonewheelgeneral.com.

On 10/22/2021 9:50 AM, Diayne McComis wrote:
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb.

Thanks in advance,? ?Di.....


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

开云体育


Thanks, Scott, for the correction in wording.
Christoph?


Am 22.10.2021 um 19:42 schrieb Scott Hawthorn <organfreak@...>:

?

These capacitors are over 60 years old and are meant to last only about 20. I would say "likely" over "probable."

On 10/22/2021 10:31 AM, Christoph wrote:

Scotts assumption is the most probable but it might also be some transformer of some addon that might have been placed near the output pickup of the reverb unit.

Christoph?


Am 22.10.2021 um 19:02 schrieb Scott Hawthorn <organfreak@...>:

?

Bad filter cap can in the reverb amp. You'll need to call a tech if you're not comfortable replacing it. Replacement available at tonewheelgeneral.com.

On 10/22/2021 9:50 AM, Diayne McComis wrote:
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb.

Thanks in advance,? ?Di.....


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

开云体育

These capacitors are over 60 years old and are meant to last only about 20. I would say "likely" over "probable."

On 10/22/2021 10:31 AM, Christoph wrote:


Scotts assumption is the most probable but it might also be some transformer of some addon that might have been placed near the output pickup of the reverb unit.

Christoph?


Am 22.10.2021 um 19:02 schrieb Scott Hawthorn <organfreak@...>:

?

Bad filter cap can in the reverb amp. You'll need to call a tech if you're not comfortable replacing it. Replacement available at tonewheelgeneral.com.

On 10/22/2021 9:50 AM, Diayne McComis wrote:
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb.

Thanks in advance,? ?Di.....


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

开云体育


Scotts assumption is the most probable but it might also be some transformer of some addon that might have been placed near the output pickup of the reverb unit.

Christoph?


Am 22.10.2021 um 19:02 schrieb Scott Hawthorn <organfreak@...>:

?

Bad filter cap can in the reverb amp. You'll need to call a tech if you're not comfortable replacing it. Replacement available at tonewheelgeneral.com.

On 10/22/2021 9:50 AM, Diayne McComis wrote:
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb.

Thanks in advance,? ?Di.....


Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

开云体育

Bad filter cap can in the reverb amp. You'll need to call a tech if you're not comfortable replacing it. Replacement available at tonewheelgeneral.com.

On 10/22/2021 9:50 AM, Diayne McComis wrote:

I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb.

Thanks in advance,? ?Di.....


Hammond A100 reverb hum

 

I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb.

Thanks in advance,? ?Di.....


Re: Contact pins denominations

 

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E.g.?

Molex crimp contact

Not all contact are intended for crimping. Some have solderable pins.

Christoph?

Am 18.10.2021 um 17:53 schrieb Uwe Menrath <uwe.menrath@...>:

?Hi,

it's me again. Could someone please tell me how these contact pins are called exactly? I did a search for Molex at Mouser and Reichelt as well, but they didn't appear. I guess they're the same as those for ATAPI drive power supply purpose.

Best regards!


Re: Contact pins denominations

 

Hi,

it's me again. Could someone please tell me how these contact pins are called exactly? I did a search for Molex at Mouser and Reichelt as well, but they didn't appear. I guess they're the same as those for ATAPI drive power supply purpose.

Best regards!


Re: A-100 Tone out conclusion

Michael Durrant
 

Rich I just noted the area code in your magazine. I've been in the Treqsure Valley my whole life. I also have a C3 and A100 with weird hum problems hahah - but all the notes work!


On Mon, Jul 19, 2021, 1:43 PM Rich Reid via <richreid01=[email protected]> wrote:

Thanks Chris! I will save this. Although I hope to never need this information I appreciate it and will save it. It would make sense and I think I recall seeing a note on the schematic about “in sequence” although I do not get the sequence. I was thinking by key number but that of course is wrong. There are more tones and being in tone order makes sense. I think I would have missed starting with 13 although that too makes sense once you see it.

?

Rich Reid

208-861-9263

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Clifton
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 2:45 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [hammondzone] A-100 Tone out conclusion

?

Well done! Not a particularly technical job, but you do have to work methodically and thoughtfully. I seem to recall that the connection terminals on the manuals are in frequency number order from left to right. Starting with frequency #13, frequencies 1 ~ 12 are only used in the bass pedals. It's been several years since I last did a similar job, but I seem to recall counting along the terminal strip and finding the broken wire exactly where I expected.

On 17/07/2021 01:09, Rich Reid via wrote:

?
This was a bear for an old guy like me but Victory!? I am submitting notes
in the hope they can help someone else in the future. 
Customer's original complaint was F#3 sounded kind of hollow. I found that
with only the 8' drawbar out there was no sound on that one note. Also, with
the 4' F#2 was out and with 16' F#4. It was? the same on both keyboards. One
tone was not sounding. With help from the list, I learned it was tone #43
that was out. With another tip from the list, I put a clip lead from there
to a drawbar that was pushed out and had tone! So I figured, hoped that it
was just a broken wire. Well it was but what a project. I took off the
top/music rack then unbolted the keyboards. As I was advised, you need to
protect the wood sides if you going to lift the keyboards. My wife does a
bit of laminating and I had her take 2 full sheets of card stock and
laminate them. They were perfect and I used blue painters tape to hold them
in place. I removed 2 bolts on top (long screws) and 2 bolts below in front.
There are 2 more bolts in the back. Problem is the reverb tank is in the way
for one. The reverb tank is mounted on 2 metal brackets. The brackets are
easy to remove with 4 screws at the back of the cabinet. Took out the tank
and removed the bolts. There is also a small bracket under the front of the
keyboard with 2 wood screws in the rail and 2 machine screws in the base of
the lower keyboard. I removed that.
I found that? I could reach under the keyboard and push it up. I got a
couple of wood blocks 4 ( 3/4"x3/4"x 9") and pushed up from underneath with
one hand on the upper keyboard and with the other pushed the block in at the
end.? This is the first time I have done this so I approached this very
slowly and carefully. When you tilt up the upper keyboard you can see the
wires going to the tabs on the upper keyboard, with second wires going down
to the lower keyboard. 
I ASSUMED THE TABS MATCHED THE KEYS. THEY DO NOT!?? I ran a new wire from
what I assumed was the correct tab to the tone but that did not fix it. I
reluctantly started cutting the cotton string bundling of the wires. I cut
as little as possible until I could follow the one wire. As I pulled it
through I could see where it was broken off. I don't think I ever would have
seen it no matter how much light I got in there or how close I looked. Once
I found it, it was obvious. I soldered my extra wire (a stranded wire) to
the tab and all is good. Of course I covered the lower keyboard with
cardboard to protect it from my solder and soldering iron.
?
These black wires in the bundle from the generator to the keyboards are
solid wire. If you do not lock down the generator before moving it, I
imagine it does not much time at all for those wires to begin breaking.
?
I hope this will help someone. It was a physically difficult repair (at
least for someone who is 70) but I am glad I was able to get it.
?
?
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
?
?
?
?
?
?
?

--

?

Virus-free.


Re: A-100 Tone out conclusion

 

开云体育

Thanks Chris! I will save this. Although I hope to never need this information I appreciate it and will save it. It would make sense and I think I recall seeing a note on the schematic about “in sequence” although I do not get the sequence. I was thinking by key number but that of course is wrong. There are more tones and being in tone order makes sense. I think I would have missed starting with 13 although that too makes sense once you see it.

?

Rich Reid

208-861-9263

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Clifton
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 2:45 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [hammondzone] A-100 Tone out conclusion

?

Well done! Not a particularly technical job, but you do have to work methodically and thoughtfully. I seem to recall that the connection terminals on the manuals are in frequency number order from left to right. Starting with frequency #13, frequencies 1 ~ 12 are only used in the bass pedals. It's been several years since I last did a similar job, but I seem to recall counting along the terminal strip and finding the broken wire exactly where I expected.

On 17/07/2021 01:09, Rich Reid via groups.io wrote:

?
This was a bear for an old guy like me but Victory!? I am submitting notes
in the hope they can help someone else in the future. 
Customer's original complaint was F#3 sounded kind of hollow. I found that
with only the 8' drawbar out there was no sound on that one note. Also, with
the 4' F#2 was out and with 16' F#4. It was? the same on both keyboards. One
tone was not sounding. With help from the list, I learned it was tone #43
that was out. With another tip from the list, I put a clip lead from there
to a drawbar that was pushed out and had tone! So I figured, hoped that it
was just a broken wire. Well it was but what a project. I took off the
top/music rack then unbolted the keyboards. As I was advised, you need to
protect the wood sides if you going to lift the keyboards. My wife does a
bit of laminating and I had her take 2 full sheets of card stock and
laminate them. They were perfect and I used blue painters tape to hold them
in place. I removed 2 bolts on top (long screws) and 2 bolts below in front.
There are 2 more bolts in the back. Problem is the reverb tank is in the way
for one. The reverb tank is mounted on 2 metal brackets. The brackets are
easy to remove with 4 screws at the back of the cabinet. Took out the tank
and removed the bolts. There is also a small bracket under the front of the
keyboard with 2 wood screws in the rail and 2 machine screws in the base of
the lower keyboard. I removed that.
I found that? I could reach under the keyboard and push it up. I got a
couple of wood blocks 4 ( 3/4"x3/4"x 9") and pushed up from underneath with
one hand on the upper keyboard and with the other pushed the block in at the
end.? This is the first time I have done this so I approached this very
slowly and carefully. When you tilt up the upper keyboard you can see the
wires going to the tabs on the upper keyboard, with second wires going down
to the lower keyboard. 
I ASSUMED THE TABS MATCHED THE KEYS. THEY DO NOT!?? I ran a new wire from
what I assumed was the correct tab to the tone but that did not fix it. I
reluctantly started cutting the cotton string bundling of the wires. I cut
as little as possible until I could follow the one wire. As I pulled it
through I could see where it was broken off. I don't think I ever would have
seen it no matter how much light I got in there or how close I looked. Once
I found it, it was obvious. I soldered my extra wire (a stranded wire) to
the tab and all is good. Of course I covered the lower keyboard with
cardboard to protect it from my solder and soldering iron.
?
These black wires in the bundle from the generator to the keyboards are
solid wire. If you do not lock down the generator before moving it, I
imagine it does not much time at all for those wires to begin breaking.
?
I hope this will help someone. It was a physically difficult repair (at
least for someone who is 70) but I am glad I was able to get it.
?
?
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
?
?
?
?
?
?
?

--

?

Virus-free.


Re: A-100 Tone out conclusion

 

开云体育

Well done! Not a particularly technical job, but you do have to work methodically and thoughtfully. I seem to recall that the connection terminals on the manuals are in frequency number order from left to right. Starting with frequency #13, frequencies 1 ~ 12 are only used in the bass pedals. It's been several years since I last did a similar job, but I seem to recall counting along the terminal strip and finding the broken wire exactly where I expected.

On 17/07/2021 01:09, Rich Reid via groups.io wrote:
This was a bear for an old guy like me but Victory!  I am submitting notes
in the hope they can help someone else in the future. 
Customer's original complaint was F#3 sounded kind of hollow. I found that
with only the 8' drawbar out there was no sound on that one note. Also, with
the 4' F#2 was out and with 16' F#4. It was  the same on both keyboards. One
tone was not sounding. With help from the list, I learned it was tone #43
that was out. With another tip from the list, I put a clip lead from there
to a drawbar that was pushed out and had tone! So I figured, hoped that it
was just a broken wire. Well it was but what a project. I took off the
top/music rack then unbolted the keyboards. As I was advised, you need to
protect the wood sides if you going to lift the keyboards. My wife does a
bit of laminating and I had her take 2 full sheets of card stock and
laminate them. They were perfect and I used blue painters tape to hold them
in place. I removed 2 bolts on top (long screws) and 2 bolts below in front.
There are 2 more bolts in the back. Problem is the reverb tank is in the way
for one. The reverb tank is mounted on 2 metal brackets. The brackets are
easy to remove with 4 screws at the back of the cabinet. Took out the tank
and removed the bolts. There is also a small bracket under the front of the
keyboard with 2 wood screws in the rail and 2 machine screws in the base of
the lower keyboard. I removed that.
I found that  I could reach under the keyboard and push it up. I got a
couple of wood blocks 4 ( 3/4"x3/4"x 9") and pushed up from underneath with
one hand on the upper keyboard and with the other pushed the block in at the
end.  This is the first time I have done this so I approached this very
slowly and carefully. When you tilt up the upper keyboard you can see the
wires going to the tabs on the upper keyboard, with second wires going down
to the lower keyboard. 
I ASSUMED THE TABS MATCHED THE KEYS. THEY DO NOT!   I ran a new wire from
what I assumed was the correct tab to the tone but that did not fix it. I
reluctantly started cutting the cotton string bundling of the wires. I cut
as little as possible until I could follow the one wire. As I pulled it
through I could see where it was broken off. I don't think I ever would have
seen it no matter how much light I got in there or how close I looked. Once
I found it, it was obvious. I soldered my extra wire (a stranded wire) to
the tab and all is good. Of course I covered the lower keyboard with
cardboard to protect it from my solder and soldering iron.

These black wires in the bundle from the generator to the keyboards are
solid wire. If you do not lock down the generator before moving it, I
imagine it does not much time at all for those wires to begin breaking.

I hope this will help someone. It was a physically difficult repair (at
least for someone who is 70) but I am glad I was able to get it.


Rich Reid
208-861-9263







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