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Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910
开云体育So, it looks like the guy that installed the kit (before I purchased this whole setup) didn't know what he was doing.Kinda figures when he left the Leslie's cable connection inside the B-3! On 1/2/2022 3:08 AM, Chris Clifton
wrote:
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Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910
开云体育That kit is intended for use with a spinet organ with a built in amplifier and speaker. Not ideal for connecting to a console with G-G output from the pre-amp, there never was an official passive kit for connecting a 9-pin Leslie to a console. Did a little more digging around the Fish Organ list, this
kit uses the
connector box with the number you gave in your original post. On 01/01/2022 23:18, Bob Pasky wrote:
Hi Chris, --
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Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910
开云体育Hi Chris,Thanks, but the circuit is not even close. What I've got is a totally passive circuit. I see your point about shorting the "unused" speaker, but that's not how mine works. My MEE switch only has three wires going to it. The "center" wire connects to Main, both or Echo, depending on the switch position. The thing is, this used to work. But the guy that installed the kit just put the box inside the organ case, next to the preamp. In order to connect the Leslie, you had to leave the back of the organ off. That looked strange, so I extended wires from the box to the pedal case and put the 9-pin connector where it's supposed to go. In doing so, I might have messed something up in the kit's wiring and haven't found the schematic for it. This is as close as I got to the right circuit. At least, the MEE and Tremelo switches match what I have. -- Bob On 1/1/2022 10:36 AM, Chris Clifton
wrote:
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Re: Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910
开云体育I'm guessing that it will be similar to this one, . All the kits I've looked at for connecting 9-pin Leslies to console Hammonds seem to use the same basic circuit. When the MEE switch is set to echo, the brown and orange wires
are connected together. This effectively puts a short circuit
across the input terminals of the PR-40, muting it. The two 820
ohm resistors, R2 & R3 isolate the G-G terminals of the organ
from the short circuit. When thinking of MEE switching on console
type organs, I find it helpful to think in terms of the switch
muting the unwanted speaker, rather than enabling the wanted
speaker. To use a two channel Leslie with a single channel organ, you will
need a crossover between the organ and the Leslie. These
crossovers are usually built into a short piece of tube with a
9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin socket on the other. The
crossover ensures that bass notes always go to the stationary
channel of the Leslie and sound through the 15" speaker, only mid
to high frequencies go to the rotary channel as the speakers of
this channel can't handle low frequencies. On 01/01/2022 14:49, Bob Pasky wrote:
Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ? --
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Schematics for Leslie Connector 113910
Does anyone have schematics for this Leslie Connector: 113910 ?
It's for adapting a B-3 to a Leslie 710. I've looked in the usual places, but haven't found this particular model. Barring that, can anyone tell me how the signal to the PR-40 should be terminated when the MEE switch is set to Echo? (The PR-40 is Main, the 710 is Echo). It appears that the Main signal just floats and I'm reading something like 5v to Gnd. It makes an awful "sproing" noise from the PR-40 when it's switched from Main/Ensemble to Echo. That can't be good for the PR-40 amp. Thanks, -- Bob |
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Hammond B200 and Leslie 415
Hi,
I have a Hammond B200 with Leslie 415. When turned on the B200 is very soft and takes a few minutes to begin operating at full volume. This is usually preceded by a pop sound. Does anyone have any ideas please and also should I fix this does anyone know how reliable this instrument is likely to be. Thank you Lynne |
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Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum
My hum was caused by a too-close placement of the Leslie.
On Sunday, October 24, 2021, 10:53:05 PM GMT+2, Diayne McComis <diayne@...> wrote:
Thanks for the info.? I guess the rest of them will come shortly, however if you think of the service you get out of these beasts that's a very low price to pay...... Di. |
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Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum
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Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum
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Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum
开云体育These capacitors are over 60 years old and are meant to last only
about 20. I would say "likely" over "probable." On 10/22/2021 10:31 AM, Christoph
wrote:
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Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum
开云体育Scotts assumption is the most probable but it might also be some transformer of some addon that might have been placed near the output pickup of the reverb unit. — Christoph?
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Re: Hammond A100 reverb hum
开云体育Bad filter cap can in the reverb amp. You'll need to call a tech
if you're not comfortable replacing it. Replacement available at
tonewheelgeneral.com. On 10/22/2021 9:50 AM, Diayne McComis
wrote:
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated. |
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Hammond A100 reverb hum
I have a bad hum in my reverb only when dialing it from off to on. The more you turn it on the louder it gets. I removed all tubes and checked them and all checked good, then I removed the rca plugs and twisted them to get a good ground , still had the hum. My next step is to remove the spring box and put a meter on it, however I don't know what the reading should be. I always thought a bad ground or open connection should be the problem, I added extra grounding , which did nothing. Any ideas of what to look for would be appreciated.
This organ is located in the swimming pool area (inside) and is operating perfectly other then the reverb. Thanks in advance,? ?Di..... |
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Re: Contact pins denominations
开云体育E.g.? Molex crimp contact Not all contact are intended for crimping. Some have solderable pins. — Christoph? Am 18.10.2021 um 17:53 schrieb Uwe Menrath <uwe.menrath@...>:
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Re: A-100 Tone out conclusion
Michael Durrant
Rich I just noted the area code in your magazine. I've been in the Treqsure Valley my whole life. I also have a C3 and A100 with weird hum problems hahah - but all the notes work! On Mon, Jul 19, 2021, 1:43 PM Rich Reid via <richreid01=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: A-100 Tone out conclusion
开云体育Thanks Chris! I will save this. Although I hope to never need this information I appreciate it and will save it. It would make sense and I think I recall seeing a note on the schematic about “in sequence” although I do not get the sequence. I was thinking by key number but that of course is wrong. There are more tones and being in tone order makes sense. I think I would have missed starting with 13 although that too makes sense once you see it. ? Rich Reid 208-861-9263 ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Chris Clifton
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 2:45 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [hammondzone] A-100 Tone out conclusion ? Well done! Not a particularly technical job, but you do have to work methodically and thoughtfully. I seem to recall that the connection terminals on the manuals are in frequency number order from left to right. Starting with frequency #13, frequencies 1 ~ 12 are only used in the bass pedals. It's been several years since I last did a similar job, but I seem to recall counting along the terminal strip and finding the broken wire exactly where I expected. On 17/07/2021 01:09, Rich Reid via groups.io wrote: ?This was a bear for an old guy like me but Victory!? I am submitting notesin the hope they can help someone else in the future.Customer's original complaint was F#3 sounded kind of hollow. I found thatwith only the 8' drawbar out there was no sound on that one note. Also, withthe 4' F#2 was out and with 16' F#4. It was? the same on both keyboards. Onetone was not sounding. With help from the list, I learned it was tone #43that was out. With another tip from the list, I put a clip lead from thereto a drawbar that was pushed out and had tone! So I figured, hoped that itwas just a broken wire. Well it was but what a project. I took off thetop/music rack then unbolted the keyboards. As I was advised, you need toprotect the wood sides if you going to lift the keyboards. My wife does abit of laminating and I had her take 2 full sheets of card stock andlaminate them. They were perfect and I used blue painters tape to hold themin place. I removed 2 bolts on top (long screws) and 2 bolts below in front.There are 2 more bolts in the back. Problem is the reverb tank is in the wayfor one. The reverb tank is mounted on 2 metal brackets. The brackets areeasy to remove with 4 screws at the back of the cabinet. Took out the tankand removed the bolts. There is also a small bracket under the front of thekeyboard with 2 wood screws in the rail and 2 machine screws in the base ofthe lower keyboard. I removed that.I found that? I could reach under the keyboard and push it up. I got acouple of wood blocks 4 ( 3/4"x3/4"x 9") and pushed up from underneath withone hand on the upper keyboard and with the other pushed the block in at theend.? This is the first time I have done this so I approached this veryslowly and carefully. When you tilt up the upper keyboard you can see thewires going to the tabs on the upper keyboard, with second wires going downto the lower keyboard.I ASSUMED THE TABS MATCHED THE KEYS. THEY DO NOT!?? I ran a new wire fromwhat I assumed was the correct tab to the tone but that did not fix it. Ireluctantly started cutting the cotton string bundling of the wires. I cutas little as possible until I could follow the one wire. As I pulled itthrough I could see where it was broken off. I don't think I ever would haveseen it no matter how much light I got in there or how close I looked. OnceI found it, it was obvious. I soldered my extra wire (a stranded wire) tothe tab and all is good. Of course I covered the lower keyboard withcardboard to protect it from my solder and soldering iron.?These black wires in the bundle from the generator to the keyboards aresolid wire. If you do not lock down the generator before moving it, Iimagine it does not much time at all for those wires to begin breaking.?I hope this will help someone. It was a physically difficult repair (atleast for someone who is 70) but I am glad I was able to get it.??Rich Reid208-861-9263??????? -- ?
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Re: A-100 Tone out conclusion
开云体育Well done! Not a particularly technical job, but you do have to
work methodically and thoughtfully. I seem to recall that the
connection terminals on the manuals are in frequency number order
from left to right. Starting with frequency #13, frequencies 1 ~
12 are only used in the bass pedals. It's been several years since
I last did a similar job, but I seem to recall counting along the
terminal strip and finding the broken wire exactly where I
expected. On 17/07/2021 01:09, Rich Reid via
groups.io wrote:
This was a bear for an old guy like me but Victory! I am submitting notes in the hope they can help someone else in the future. Customer's original complaint was F#3 sounded kind of hollow. I found that with only the 8' drawbar out there was no sound on that one note. Also, with the 4' F#2 was out and with 16' F#4. It was the same on both keyboards. One tone was not sounding. With help from the list, I learned it was tone #43 that was out. With another tip from the list, I put a clip lead from there to a drawbar that was pushed out and had tone! So I figured, hoped that it was just a broken wire. Well it was but what a project. I took off the top/music rack then unbolted the keyboards. As I was advised, you need to protect the wood sides if you going to lift the keyboards. My wife does a bit of laminating and I had her take 2 full sheets of card stock and laminate them. They were perfect and I used blue painters tape to hold them in place. I removed 2 bolts on top (long screws) and 2 bolts below in front. There are 2 more bolts in the back. Problem is the reverb tank is in the way for one. The reverb tank is mounted on 2 metal brackets. The brackets are easy to remove with 4 screws at the back of the cabinet. Took out the tank and removed the bolts. There is also a small bracket under the front of the keyboard with 2 wood screws in the rail and 2 machine screws in the base of the lower keyboard. I removed that. I found that I could reach under the keyboard and push it up. I got a couple of wood blocks 4 ( 3/4"x3/4"x 9") and pushed up from underneath with one hand on the upper keyboard and with the other pushed the block in at the end. This is the first time I have done this so I approached this very slowly and carefully. When you tilt up the upper keyboard you can see the wires going to the tabs on the upper keyboard, with second wires going down to the lower keyboard. I ASSUMED THE TABS MATCHED THE KEYS. THEY DO NOT! I ran a new wire from what I assumed was the correct tab to the tone but that did not fix it. I reluctantly started cutting the cotton string bundling of the wires. I cut as little as possible until I could follow the one wire. As I pulled it through I could see where it was broken off. I don't think I ever would have seen it no matter how much light I got in there or how close I looked. Once I found it, it was obvious. I soldered my extra wire (a stranded wire) to the tab and all is good. Of course I covered the lower keyboard with cardboard to protect it from my solder and soldering iron. These black wires in the bundle from the generator to the keyboards are solid wire. If you do not lock down the generator before moving it, I imagine it does not much time at all for those wires to begin breaking. I hope this will help someone. It was a physically difficult repair (at least for someone who is 70) but I am glad I was able to get it. Rich Reid 208-861-9263 --
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