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AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.


pentalab
 

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Phil Clements" <philc@...>
wrote:



I looked. In our breaker box, all the ground wires and all the
Neutral wire connecct in one bus bar. How would it be different
if
there were two bus bars that are connected by a bus-wire?

No electrical difference here; but if the breaker box is to be
used as
a sub-panel, you need seperate bus bars for the neutrals and
grounds
with a removable shorting strap between the two. Only in the main
service entrance panel do the neutrals and grounds all strap
together.
I guess a few bucks are saved by leaving out the strap and
insulation
for the two bus bars if one has no intention of ever changing a
main
panel over to a sub-panel.
### This is correct. Only SUB-panel's are wired for separate
grnd/neutral buss's.... via the shorting strap. I installed a 100
A sub panel... and such is the case. The reason is... they want
any fault current to flow through the GRND buss bar... back to
main panel.... and NOT the neutral.

I'm talking about a hot to chassis short only... inside the HV
supply/amp/ anything else. This requires by the electrical
code... to have a separate GRND wire from sub panel to HV
supply/amp CHASSIS. Of course their is also a grnd wire tying
the main and sub panel together.

### any short from hot to neutral... in the HV
supply/amp/anything else including sub panel itself... and fault
current will flow back through the neutral.... back to main panel.

### This applies to any HV supply/linear amp as well. The
neutral if used.... is fed to it's own separate buss
bar/termination in the HV supply/amp...... and the neutral is
NEVER bonded to the chassis. If u did... u would have any and
all devices operating on 120 vac...having their return current
flowing back to sub panel via GRND. And since the sub panel has
isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... this 120 vac current would
continue back to MAIN panel ..VIA the grnd wire tying the sub and
main panel together.

### IE: The grnd wire[s] only are designed to carry FAULT
current.... and NEVER normal operating current.

### When Rich or anybody else advocates bonding the Neutral to
the chassis in any HV amp/RF deck/anything else... BEWARE... you
are violating the electrical code in all 50 states, and all of
Canada.

### The shorting strap used in main panel is heavy ga copper
bar... and never wire. .... used to bond neutral buss and grnd
buss's together. [it might have to handle 100+ A] I have never
seen any panel yet, without isolated neutral and gnrd buss's.
That's cuz with isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... any panel can be
used as a main OR sub panel.

Later... Jim VE7RF

(((73)))
Phil Clements, K5PC


craxd
 

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "pentalab" <jim.thomson@...>
wrote:

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Phil Clements" <philc@>
wrote:



I looked. In our breaker box, all the ground wires and all
the
Neutral wire connecct in one bus bar. How would it be
different
if
there were two bus bars that are connected by a bus-wire?

No electrical difference here; but if the breaker box is to be
used as
a sub-panel, you need seperate bus bars for the neutrals and
grounds
with a removable shorting strap between the two. Only in the main
service entrance panel do the neutrals and grounds all strap
together.
I guess a few bucks are saved by leaving out the strap and
insulation
for the two bus bars if one has no intention of ever changing a
main
panel over to a sub-panel.
### This is correct. Only SUB-panel's are wired for separate
grnd/neutral buss's.... via the shorting strap. I installed a 100
A sub panel... and such is the case. The reason is... they
want
any fault current to flow through the GRND buss bar... back to
main panel.... and NOT the neutral.

Correct, even though in reality, they tie together at the main panel.
The way it used to be, all the breaker boxes used for a service main
(main panel), like a 200 amp service in residential construction,
have a common bus bar for both the neutral and ground. This bus bar
is also bonded to the cabinet. These are the same as you will buy at
Lowes and Home Depot. When you want a sub panel, you ask for and buy
a sub panel as they're two different beasts. A sub panel could be
used as a main panel, but both bus bars (ground and neutral) have to
be tied together. Most sub panels though generally have a lower
current rating like 100 amps or less. I guess you could buy them
larger, but generally in residential construction, the sub panel is
smaller than the main panel. I don't know of any houses being built
today that use less than a 200 amp main. They used to have 100 amp
mains like this house had before I changed it out. I put in a heat
pump back in 1989 and had to upgrade to a 200 amp.



I'm talking about a hot to chassis short only... inside the HV
supply/amp/ anything else. This requires by the electrical
code... to have a separate GRND wire from sub panel to HV
supply/amp CHASSIS. Of course their is also a grnd wire tying
the main and sub panel together.

### any short from hot to neutral... in the HV
supply/amp/anything else including sub panel itself... and fault
current will flow back through the neutral.... back to main panel.

Correct. What Rich is saying is that since the ground and neutral tie
together at the main, they still in reality are the same wire. The
difference is that the neutral carries operating current back to the
main, and back to the C.T. of the transformer. Since the neutral
carries current, it's insulated. The ground though, being bare, is
used for safety and shouldn't have but a momentary fault current flow
in it. If a break in the hots insulation was to occur inside the
cable jacket, it should possibly (HOPEFULLY) short to the bare ground
and the fault current kick the breaker. That's why armored BX cable
is better than Romex. Since the bare ground is bonded to the steel
outlet or pull boxes, a short from the hot to a box will cause a
fault current to travel through the ground wire, back to the main,
and trip the breaker. The bare ground should be connected to the
chassis of the amp so that if a short happens between the chassis and
the hot (shorted transformer), the fault current will flow through
the ground wire, back to the main, and trip a breaker. The NEC
figures that the neutral is a current carrier and so it's insulated,
and the ground is only a temporary fault current carrier.

New TV sets throw this out the door as they all have a hot chassis
any more. The fault current goes back through the neutral if the fuse
don't blow.

Here, the C.T on a lot of transformers at the pole go to a ground rod
at the pole. The home also has a ground rod going to the ground/
neutral bus bar. Water pipes are not a good ground since most tap on
to the main water line via pvc pipe anymore, via a high pressure
fitting. Same goes for a well which uses PVC pipe. If the copper
water lines attached directly to a cast iron water main, it would be
pretty good. Most water mains here are thick wall, large ID plastic
anymore. You also would have a meter to feed through where a bond
jumper would need to be put across it. The water itself is not that
good of a conductor for a ground.



### This applies to any HV supply/linear amp as well. The
neutral if used.... is fed to it's own separate buss
bar/termination in the HV supply/amp...... and the neutral is
NEVER bonded to the chassis. If u did... u would have any and
all devices operating on 120 vac...having their return current
flowing back to sub panel via GRND.


See above. It's so you don't have operating current on a bare ground
wire.



And since the sub panel has
isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... this 120 vac current would
continue back to MAIN panel ..VIA the grnd wire tying the sub
and
main panel together.

### IE: The grnd wire[s] only are designed to carry FAULT
current.... and NEVER normal operating current.


Correct!




### When Rich or anybody else advocates bonding the Neutral to
the chassis in any HV amp/RF deck/anything else... BEWARE... you
are violating the electrical code in all 50 states, and all of
Canada.

### The shorting strap used in main panel is heavy ga copper
bar... and never wire. .... used to bond neutral buss and grnd
buss's together. [it might have to handle 100+ A] I have never
seen any panel yet, without isolated neutral and gnrd buss's.
That's cuz with isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... any panel can be
used as a main OR sub panel.


Here, you used to either buy a sub panel or a main panel. My Square D
main panel has a common bus bar where a series of holes are up either
side. There's two rows of set screws up the front over the holes. In
it, you can have a ground right under a neutral. I just seen a single
bus bar main panel by Square D at Lowes the other day while I was
looking around.

Your correct on a shorting jumper. It has to be able to handle the
maximum current the box is rated at. For a main, I prefer the single
bus bar.

The proper way of running a 115/230 Vac circuit is to use either 10-3
or 8-3 etc romex. There you have a black, red, white, and bare
ground. Black and Red are the two hots, White neutral, and bare is
ground.

A 230 Vac only circuit could be ran with say 10-2 or 8-2, but the
white would have to be re-colored by tape or heat shrink to pass an
inspection. In some areas, I'm not sure whether that would be
acceptable as local building codes can differ.

If using cordage like type SO cord, I always buy like 10-2 with black
and red instead of white. It costs a little more, but to me worth it.
Ground is always green in all.

Some cordage like is being used in computer power cables though have
blue and brown or black for the power if I recall, and green as
ground.

Grey 3-wire zip type cord can be used as it has no color except the
green ground in the middle. This is similar to dryer pig tails, etc.
I've used this cable to wire 60 amp fused disconnects for 225 amp
welders (buzz boxes).

The big heavy 230 vac cable for a heat pumps, etc main current is
similar to service entry cable in a grey rubber jacket. The two hots
are black with a bare ground. The wire is aluminum. I'm not for sure
the current capacity of the stuff I have here though.



Later... Jim VE7RF

(((73)))
Phil Clements, K5PC

Best,

Will


 

On Nov 17, 2006, at 4:09 PM, pentalab wrote:

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Phil Clements" <philc@...>
wrote:



I looked. In our breaker box, all the ground wires and all the
Neutral wire connecct in one bus bar. How would it be different
if
there were two bus bars that are connected by a bus-wire?

No electrical difference here; but if the breaker box is to be
used as
a sub-panel, you need seperate bus bars for the neutrals and
grounds
with a removable shorting strap between the two. Only in the main
service entrance panel do the neutrals and grounds all strap
together.
I guess a few bucks are saved by leaving out the strap and
insulation
for the two bus bars if one has no intention of ever changing a
main
panel over to a sub-panel.
### This is correct. Only SUB-panel's are wired for separate
grnd/neutral buss's.... via the shorting strap. I installed a 100
A sub panel... and such is the case. The reason is... they want
any fault current to flow through the GRND buss bar... back to
main panel.... and NOT the neutral.

I'm talking about a hot to chassis short only... inside the HV
supply/amp/ anything else. This requires by the electrical
code... to have a separate GRND wire from sub panel to HV
supply/amp CHASSIS. Of course their is also a grnd wire tying
the main and sub panel together.

### any short from hot to neutral... in the HV
supply/amp/anything else including sub panel itself... and fault
current will flow back through the neutral.... back to main panel.

### This applies to any HV supply/linear amp as well. The
neutral if used.... is fed to it's own separate buss
bar/termination in the HV supply/amp...... and the neutral is
NEVER bonded to the chassis. If u did... u would have any and
all devices operating on 120 vac...having their return current
flowing back to sub panel via GRND. And since the sub panel has
isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... this 120 vac current would
continue back to MAIN panel ..VIA the grnd wire tying the sub and
main panel together.

### IE: The grnd wire[s] only are designed to carry FAULT
current.... and NEVER normal operating current.

### When Rich or anybody else advocates bonding the Neutral to
the chassis in any HV amp/RF deck/anything else... BEWARE... you
are violating the electrical code in all 50 states, and all of
Canada.
Beware of what? -- certainly not electric shock.

### The shorting strap used in main panel is heavy ga copper
bar... and never wire. .... used to bond neutral buss and grnd
buss's together.
In my breaker box, the neutral wires and the ground wires go into the same bus strip. When there's a fault, the breaker trips.
...
R L Measures, AG6K, 805.386.3734
r@..., rlm@..., www.somis.org


Rich & DJ
 

I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4
years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp
transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole
there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and
fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was
used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker
box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have
wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.
The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a
welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I don't want to
rewire more than I have to, to be safe. Right the 240v for the welder
and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed
was done in conduit.
The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to
rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply
for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.
This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring
was not inspected after it was first run.

Rich, kd0zz:


pentalab
 

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., R L Measures <r@...> wrote:

### This applies to any HV supply/linear amp as well. The
neutral if used.... is fed to it's own separate buss
bar/termination in the HV supply/amp...... and the neutral is
NEVER bonded to the chassis. If u did... u would have any and
all devices operating on 120 vac...having their return current
flowing back to sub panel via GRND. And since the sub panel has
isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... this 120 vac current would
continue back to MAIN panel ..VIA the grnd wire tying the sub and
main panel together.

### IE: The grnd wire[s] only are designed to carry FAULT
current.... and NEVER normal operating current.

### When Rich or anybody else advocates bonding the Neutral to
the chassis in any HV amp/RF deck/anything else... BEWARE... you
are violating the electrical code in all 50 states, and all of
Canada.
RICH SEZ....Beware of what? -- certainly not electric shock.
### I give up !

### Why don't u take some of that 4 wire home depot 8 awg...
and parallel em into 2 pairs.... eq ga is then 5ga. Then u
will have all 4 wires carrying current... and can run ur 8171.

Jim


Robert B. Bonner
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I don¡¯t know about using a 3Phase disconnect, but I don¡¯t see a problem personally.? Its pretty obvious whats happening inside the disco.? You wouldn¡¯t want to use 3phase panels this way.

?

You don¡¯t have a problem code wise if the wiring going from the 400A pole fuses to each of the panels is 500MCM copper where it is then breakered to 200Amps.

?

In a rural situation where the state inspector never sees it, most wouldn¡¯t do this.? If the wire is OO then the fuses in the 400A disconnect NEED to be 200A.? The wire must be fused at the source for the wire¡¯s max current.

?

OO wire is rated at 190Amps however many locations allow OO to be fused at 200 AMPS in residential power service distribution, where I live is one of them.? Otherwise OOO copper would be required.? Aluminum conductors require 2X the size and I don¡¯t recommend aluminum unless absolutely necessary.

?

So there you go, what do you have?

?


From: ham_amplifiers@... [mailto:ham_amplifiers@...] On Behalf Of Rich & DJ
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 9:32 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.

?

I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4 years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.

The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I don¡¯t want to rewire more than I have to, to be safe.? Right the 240v for the welder and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed was done in conduit.

The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.

This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring was not inspected after it was first run.

?

Rich, kd0zz:
?


FRANCIS CARCIA
 

You can split a 400 amp run but each pair of conductors should be sized to handle 400 amp fault current. The conductor needs to match the fuse or breaker that feeds it.
Your sub panel is 200 amps so after that it only needs to be sized for 200 amps.

Rich & DJ wrote:

I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4 years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.
The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I dont want to rewire more than I have to, to be safe.? Right the 240v for the welder and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed was done in conduit.
The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.
This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring was not inspected after it was first run.
Rich, kd0zz:
?


FRANCIS CARCIA
 

240 400 A is a newer item so I'm not surprised someone used a 3 phase unit.
A guy I work with looked into the 400 amp setup and changed his mind when he saw the price.? I used 0000 copper between my meter socket and panel about 4 feet away.
I must have looked like a fool pulling that wire one strand at a time. I felt pretty stupid when I dropped the can of no ox down the conduit to the pole. I was lucky to have a knot in the pull rope and it popped right up without digging it up and cutting the pipe.


"Robert B. Bonner" wrote:

I dont know about using a 3Phase disconnect, but I dont see a problem personally.? Its pretty obvious whats happening inside the disco.? You wouldnt want to use 3phase panels this way.
You dont have a problem code wise if the wiring going from the 400A pole fuses to each of the panels is 500MCM copper where it is then breakered to 200Amps.
In a rural situation where the state inspector never sees it, most wouldnt do this.? If the wire is OO then the fuses in the 400A disconnect NEED to be 200A.? The wire must be fused at the source for the wires max current.
OO wire is rated at 190Amps however many locations allow OO to be fused at 200 AMPS in residential power service distribution, where I live is one of them.? Otherwise OOO copper would be required.? Aluminum conductors require 2X the size and I dont recommend aluminum unless absolutely necessary.
So there you go, what do you have?

From: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rich & DJ
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 9:32 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.
I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4 years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.
The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I dont want to rewire more than I have to, to be safe.? Right the 240v for the welder and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed was done in conduit.
The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.
This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring was not inspected after it was first run.
Rich, kd0zz:
?


 

You can split a 400 amp run but each pair of conductors should be sized to handle 400 amp fault current. The conductor needs to match the fuse or breaker that feeds it.
Your sub panel is 200 amps so after that it only needs to be sized for 200 amps.

Rich & DJ <rdj@...> wrote:
I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4 years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.
The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I don¡¯t want to rewire more than I have to, to be safe. Right the 240v for the welder and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed was done in conduit.
The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.
This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring was not inspected after it was first run.

Rich, kd0zz:
Outside Feeder Tap of Unlimited Length Rule [240.21(B)(5)
Outside feeder tap conductors can be of unlimited length without
overcurrent protection at the point they receive their supply, but
they must be installed in accordance with the following requirements:
Figure 3
(1) The tap conductors shall be suitably protected from physical
damage.
(2) The tap conductors shall terminate at a single circuit breaker or
a single set of fuses that limit the load to the ampacity of the
conductors. This single overcurrent device shall be permitted to
supply any number of additional overcurrent devices on its load side.
(3) The overcurrent device for the tap conductors is an integral part
of a disconnecting means or shall be located immediately adjacent
thereto.
(4) The disconnect is located at a readily accessible location either
outside the building or structure, or nearest the point of entry of
the service conductors.
--
Eddie, WB4MLE


 

On Nov 18, 2006, at 7:42 AM, pentalab wrote:

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., R L Measures <r@...> wrote:

### This applies to any HV supply/linear amp as well. The
neutral if used.... is fed to it's own separate buss
bar/termination in the HV supply/amp...... and the neutral is
NEVER bonded to the chassis. If u did... u would have any and
all devices operating on 120 vac...having their return current
flowing back to sub panel via GRND. And since the sub panel has
isolated grnd/neutral buss's..... this 120 vac current would
continue back to MAIN panel ..VIA the grnd wire tying the sub and
main panel together.

### IE: The grnd wire[s] only are designed to carry FAULT
current.... and NEVER normal operating current.

### When Rich or anybody else advocates bonding the Neutral to
the chassis in any HV amp/RF deck/anything else... BEWARE... you
are violating the electrical code in all 50 states, and all of
Canada.
RICH SEZ....Beware of what? -- certainly not electric shock.
### I give up !
As well you should since there would likely be no more than 50v on the cabinet for under 2 seconds during a major short in the stove -- something I have yet to see in one.

### Why don't u take some of that 4 wire home depot 8 awg...
and parallel em into 2 pairs.... eq ga is then 5ga.
And throw away the extant 4ga. wire?
Then u
will have all 4 wires carrying current... and can run ur 8171.
I don't have an 4cx10,000A / 8171. I have the J version sitting around waiting until I finish the on-going slow-going solar-electric project.

Jim


R L Measures, AG6K, 805.386.3734
r@..., rlm@..., www.somis.org


Rich & DJ
 

Well I guess all is not good because the wire running to the house and
the wire running to the shed are alum for 200 amp service each. I can
see it in the disconnect where it is dual 200amp lines, then it goes
underground , the conduit divides somewhere underground an feeds the two
200amp breaker boxes. The pole has a 380A commercial, 400A residential
transformer.
If I need heaver wire to my breakers then why do people in a subdivision
not need a wire rated for the transformer on the pole?
This had to be in place when it was first done because it can't be
turned off at the meter. If you pull my meter, all is still hot. My
meter runs off a current transformer. Just curious, not trying to
question your statement, just trying to lean.

-----Original Message-----
From: ham_amplifiers@...
[mailto:ham_amplifiers@...] On Behalf Of Robert B. Bonner
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 10:28 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels...
Electrical codes, etc.

I don't know about using a 3Phase disconnect, but I don't see a problem
personally. Its pretty obvious whats happening inside the disco. You
wouldn't want to use 3phase panels this way.

You don't have a problem code wise if the wiring going from the 400A
pole fuses to each of the panels is 500MCM copper where it is then
breakered to 200Amps.

In a rural situation where the state inspector never sees it, most
wouldn't do this. If the wire is OO then the fuses in the 400A
disconnect NEED to be 200A. The wire must be fused at the source for
the wire's max current.

OO wire is rated at 190Amps however many locations allow OO to be fused
at 200 AMPS in residential power service distribution, where I live is
one of them. Otherwise OOO copper would be required. Aluminum
conductors require 2X the size and I don't recommend aluminum unless
absolutely necessary.

So there you go, what do you have?

_____

From: ham_amplifiers@...
[mailto:ham_amplifiers@...] On Behalf Of Rich & DJ
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 9:32 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels...
Electrical codes, etc.

I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4
years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp
transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole
there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and
fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was
used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker
box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have
wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.
The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a
welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I don't want to
rewire more than I have to, to be safe. Right the 240v for the welder
and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed
was done in conduit.
The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to
rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply
for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.
This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring
was not inspected after it was first run.

Rich, kd0zz:


Robert B. Bonner
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The power company is the other side of the world¡­?

?

I take everything I say back.? I¡¯m understanding what you have setup better understood¡­? I had the same thing at my farm.

?

Is the Disconnect on the pole fused or just a disconnect?? The wire going to the house and garage/barn are just fine.

?

The power feeding your house is just power company (even if you supplied it)? wiring.? This is just fine as long at it doesn¡¯t go more than 5 feet inside your house before hitting the breakers.? It doesn¡¯t need to be fused as it is service wiring.

?

Sorry for blasting off the first post.? It was the first thing I did this AM, got up at 10:15¡­? I have a Bar schedule¡­

?

BOB DD

?


From: ham_amplifiers@... [mailto:ham_amplifiers@...] On Behalf Of Rich & DJ
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 4:42 PM
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.

?

Well I guess all is not good because the wire running to the house and the wire running to the shed are alum for 200 amp service each. I can see it in the disconnect where it is dual 200amp lines, then it goes underground , the conduit divides somewhere underground an feeds the two 200amp breaker boxes. The pole has a 380A commercial, 400A residential transformer.

If I need heaver wire to my breakers then why do people in a subdivision not need a wire rated for the transformer on the pole?

This had to be in place when it was first done because it can¡¯t be turned off at the meter. If you pull my meter, all is still hot. My meter runs off a current transformer. Just curious, not trying to question your statement, just trying to lean.

?

-----Original Message-----
From: ham_amplifiers@... [mailto:ham_amplifiers@...] On Behalf Of Robert B. Bonner
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 10:28 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.

?

I don¡¯t know about using a 3Phase disconnect, but I don¡¯t see a problem personally.? Its pretty obvious whats happening inside the disco.? You wouldn¡¯t want to use 3phase panels this way.

?

You don¡¯t have a problem code wise if the wiring going from the 400A pole fuses to each of the panels is 500MCM copper where it is then breakered to 200Amps.

?

In a rural situation where the state inspector never sees it, most wouldn¡¯t do this.? If the wire is OO then the fuses in the 400A disconnect NEED to be 200A.? The wire must be fused at the source for the wire¡¯s max current.

?

OO wire is rated at 190Amps however many locations allow OO to be fused at 200 AMPS in residential power service distribution, where I live is one of them.? Otherwise OOO copper would be required.? Aluminum conductors require 2X the size and I don¡¯t recommend aluminum unless absolutely necessary.

?

So there you go, what do you have?

?


From: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rich & DJ
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 9:32 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.

?

I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4 years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.

The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I don¡¯t want to rewire more than I have to, to be safe.? Right the 240v for the welder and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed was done in conduit.

The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.

This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring was not inspected after it was first run.

?

Rich, kd0zz:
?


FRANCIS CARCIA
 

All you need to do is add a pair of 200 amp breakers in series with each run and you will be legal. The only 400 amp run needs to be between the 400 amp breaker and the two 200 amp units.

Rich & DJ wrote:

Well I guess all is not good because the wire running to the house and the wire running to the shed are alum for 200 amp service each. I can see it in the disconnect where it is dual 200amp lines, then it goes underground , the conduit divides somewhere underground an feeds the two 200amp breaker boxes. The pole has a 380A commercial, 400A residential transformer.
If I need heaver wire to my breakers then why do people in a subdivision not need a wire rated for the transformer on the pole?
This had to be in place when it was first done because it cant be turned off at the meter. If you pull my meter, all is still hot. My meter runs off a current transformer. Just curious, not trying to question your statement, just trying to lean.
-----Original Message-----
From: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert B. Bonner
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 10:28 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.
I dont know about using a 3Phase disconnect, but I dont see a problem personally.? Its pretty obvious whats happening inside the disco.? You wouldnt want to use 3phase panels this way.
You dont have a problem code wise if the wiring going from the 400A pole fuses to each of the panels is 500MCM copper where it is then breakered to 200Amps.
In a rural situation where the state inspector never sees it, most wouldnt do this.? If the wire is OO then the fuses in the 400A disconnect NEED to be 200A.? The wire must be fused at the source for the wires max current.
OO wire is rated at 190Amps however many locations allow OO to be fused at 200 AMPS in residential power service distribution, where I live is one of them.? Otherwise OOO copper would be required.? Aluminum conductors require 2X the size and I dont recommend aluminum unless absolutely necessary.
So there you go, what do you have?

From: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rich & DJ
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 9:32 AM
To: ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical codes, etc.
I have a question if I am legal by code rules. I bought this place 4 years ago and here is how it was wired. , I have my own 400 amp transformer on a utility pole in the yard, at the bottom of the pole there is a 3 phase 400amp disconnect with only two lines in use and fused. There is no 400A 240V disconnect standard so a 3 phase box was used, From there I have one run to the work shed and a 200 amp breaker box and another run to the home and a 200 amp breaker box. I have wondered about the splitting of the 400A run.
The shed has my work shop and my radio room. In the shed I have a welder, air compressor, saws and future amp set up. I dont want to rewire more than I have to, to be safe.? Right the 240v for the welder and air compressor is a 3 wire setup. All original wiring in the shed was done in conduit.
The radio room has the breaker box in it so it will not be hard to rewire for an amp. I built a universal (variable voltage) power supply for the amp and it has a 3 wire cord from a range now.
This place is out in the sticks with the hicks and the ticks so wiring was not inspected after it was first run.
Rich, kd0zz:
?


hbmandel
 

Size 3/0 AWG wire is the correct guage to use for 200 ampere service,
not 2/0 AWG.

In any circumstance the wire diameter needs to be sized to the
breaker protecting it.

In a dead short situation you will want the breaker opening, even if
it is rated at 125 to 150 percent tripping, well before the wire
heats up to the point where the insulation melts and possibly catches
fire or releases poisonous gases.

The only point where the a.c. electrical ground is bonded to the
neutral should be in the main distribution panel and not in any sub
panel or appliance.

In commercial 200 amp single-phase, three wire installations the size
of the a.c.e.g. is 2AWG while the current-carrying conductors are 3/0
AWG. This is because the a.c.e.g. is a fault drain and not a current-
carrying conductor, but in D.C., everything changes, and that is a
topic for a separate discussion.

Lastly, in amateur appliances such as medium power transmitting
equipment, the connection to the frame of the equipment, e.g., the
frame ground or RF static drain, should be of the heaviest guage
affordable, and this conductor needs to be bonded to all the other
a.c.e.g and static grounds, ground rods, external ground ring,
interior halo, etc.

Hal Mandel
W4HBM


Robert B. Bonner
 

Hal I don't take everything back.

We've been talking residential services here not commercial.

The actual current ampacity for 2/0 copper is 190 amps but it is allowed to
be fused to 200 for Residential Service Feeds only in many cities.

2/0 copper is acceptable in way over 1/2 of the cities in the country for
feeding a 200 amp RESIDENTIAL SERVICE. In the other half they require 3/0.
You must check your locality when pulling a 200 amp service. They operate
in the 5% grey area.

3/0 copper is required in commercial services.

Sioux Falls, SD is one of those towns where 2/0 copper is acceptable for
service feeds. Minneapolis where I worked as an electrician in the mid 80's
was another. Do not confuse COMMERCIAL SERVICES with Residential
Services...

It's like comparing Apples and Oranges can't be done.

So what do we have here? We have the NEC and most cities are dead locked on
the code by legislation. Others fly by the seat of their pants in other
areas.

What I don't like is here while we can pull 2/0 when we change out a service
we are required by city ordinance to UPDATE our houses to the current code
everywhere else. This means ARC FAULT circuits in the bedrooms (which I
haven't done yet) and Ground Fault breakers or outlets in the kitchens,
laundry and bathrooms.


This house of mine was built in 1962 with a 60 amp service. Many of the
rooms just had barely 2 outlets. Fortunately the past owner updated to a 20
circuit 100 A panel in 1972 and added the required circuits in the kitchen
and baths.

The first thing I did, like the first week was rehung a new 30 circuit 100
amp panel so I could even hook up some radio without blinking every light in
the place.

I've since installed a 200 Amp service panel with 40 circuits (5 - 30 amp
220's to the radio room, plus a 30 amp 120 that feeds the 24 outlets in the
radio console)

The basement is wired to the max all the way to code and broken up nicely.
I think I have 4-5 circuits left in that panel.

The garage has a 100 Amp sub panel with the hot tub 50 ground fault sub
panel off of it, the RV 50 amp ground fault circuit, lighting, garage power,
a 30 amp garage 220 incase I need to test an amp or something, 2 - 20 amp
each side of the garage door block heater plugins for the diesel truck,
etc.. All ground fault where outlets are, plus a panel outlet.

OH yeah, the Meter Sequence here needs to be a METER MAIN, where the actual
main breakers are in the meter box. This is because it is 20 feet through
an addition before my main panel in the basement.

That meter main has room for 8 - 220 breakers.

I figure I will light up the yard from there TIM ALLEN with his Christmas
Lights.

If I ever do build that 30 x 40 garage I will probably put in a 400 amp
panel out there and sub feed the house. That 200 Amp service is pretty
busy.

Convenience is nice, but if I cranked up everything here I would have to
call the POWER COMPANY and tell them to pull the BORON RODS out of the
reactor another inch...

BOB DD

-----Original Message-----
From: ham_amplifiers@... [mailto:ham_amplifiers@...]
On Behalf Of hbmandel
Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 7:32 PM
To: ham_amplifiers@...
Subject: [ham_amplifiers] Re: AC Breaker panels... sub panels... Electrical
codes, etc.

Size 3/0 AWG wire is the correct guage to use for 200 ampere service,
not 2/0 AWG.

In any circumstance the wire diameter needs to be sized to the
breaker protecting it.

In a dead short situation you will want the breaker opening, even if
it is rated at 125 to 150 percent tripping, well before the wire
heats up to the point where the insulation melts and possibly catches
fire or releases poisonous gases.

The only point where the a.c. electrical ground is bonded to the
neutral should be in the main distribution panel and not in any sub
panel or appliance.

In commercial 200 amp single-phase, three wire installations the size
of the a.c.e.g. is 2AWG while the current-carrying conductors are 3/0
AWG. This is because the a.c.e.g. is a fault drain and not a current-
carrying conductor, but in D.C., everything changes, and that is a
topic for a separate discussion.

Lastly, in amateur appliances such as medium power transmitting
equipment, the connection to the frame of the equipment, e.g., the
frame ground or RF static drain, should be of the heaviest guage
affordable, and this conductor needs to be bonded to all the other
a.c.e.g and static grounds, ground rods, external ground ring,
interior halo, etc.

Hal Mandel
W4HBM





Yahoo! Groups Links


pentalab
 

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., R L Measures <r@...> wrote:

### Why don't u take some of that 4 wire home depot 8 awg...
and parallel em into 2 pairs.... eq ga is then 5ga.
RICH SEZ...And throw away the extant 4ga. wire?
#### The above was a joke. IMO ur 100' length [200' loop] of
4 ga wire is WAY too small for a 4x10. 4 ga wire isn't
even rated to handle 110 A.....never mind the 4-6 x that
current.... every 8.3 msecs. Calculate the PEAK current drawn
from the plate xfmr pri on a huge C input HV supply... and you
will see why I use big everything, including wire, contactor's,
etc.... from 200 A main panel to pri of 253 lb Dahl plate
xfmr. Duncan's pwr supply modeler.. PSUD-2 comes in handy for
this stuff. It also has 2 x methods of calculating plate xfmr
pri IMPEDANCE. Z is used to calculate peak pri current drawn...
not simply plate xfmr pri dc resistance.

#### 3/000 CU from main 200A panel to HV supply is what's
really needed. Snip a few strands to make it fit the 100 A
breaker at EACH end.

later... Jim VE7RF


pentalab
 

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., "Robert B. Bonner"
<rbonner@...> wrote:
If I ever do build that 30 x 40 garage I will probably put in a 400
amp panel out there and sub feed the house. That 200 Amp service is
pretty busy.
### My electrician buddy said 240V 400A service was
available...and "no sweat". 400 A = 96 Kva ! 200A = 48 Kva.
I still don't get it. I have "200 A service".... and SO do my
15 neighbours... all hanging from the SAME 50 Kva pole pig ! Some
of my neigbours have a secondary suite in their homes... with a 2nd
elctric stove, etc.

### since we all got natural gas back in 1992... most of the
electric hot water tanks and oil furnaces have gone bye bye...
reducing the overall load..a bit. I still don't see any natural
gas clothes dryers..yet. Back East, they all have em... plus
gas ranges. My hot water tank, fireplace, and furnace all run on
natural gas.

### Bottom line is... when I smoke the pole pig at dinner time one
night..... I guess I can just whine to the pwr co... and say .."I'm
supposed to be getting 200A CCS service... so where is it? "

### The biggest pole mount pole pig I have seen is 100 KVA. But
these were special one off units...designed to drop 25 kv down to
12.5 kv..... then 12.5 kv into our vault xfmr at work... where the
vault xfmr dropped it again to 208/120. This is all 3 phase... and
both the 3 x old 75 kva xfmr's.. and the 3 x new 100 kva xfmr's
are huge... when u see em on the grnd. Every time I see 3 x
75/100 kva xfmr's.. all on the same pole, I cringe........ the
weight is massive.. as in 2 tons.

### anything above 100 KVA per phase... and it then goes
on the grnd.

Later... Jim VE7RF


 

On Nov 19, 2006, at 5:13 AM, pentalab wrote:

--- In ham_amplifiers@..., R L Measures <r@...> wrote:

### Why don't u take some of that 4 wire home depot 8 awg...
and parallel em into 2 pairs.... eq ga is then 5ga.
RICH SEZ...And throw away the extant 4ga. wire?
#### The above was a joke. IMO ur 100' length [200' loop] of
4 ga wire is WAY too small for a 4x10.
Jim -- Do you design your amplifiers for A0 or for SSB?
4 ga wire isn't
even rated to handle 110 A.....never mind the 4-6 x that
current.... every 8.3 msecs. Calculate the PEAK current drawn
from the plate xfmr pri on a huge C input HV supply... and you
will see why I use big everything, including wire, contactor's,
etc.... from 200 A main panel to pri of 253 lb Dahl plate
xfmr.
Wouldn't a 900-pounder be better?

Duncan's pwr supply modeler.. PSUD-2 comes in handy for
this stuff. It also has 2 x methods of calculating plate xfmr
pri IMPEDANCE. Z is used to calculate peak pri current drawn...
not simply plate xfmr pri dc resistance.
I did the calculations for the 8170 amplifier with Ohm's Law. The calc. peak mains current was c. 300A. The measured result was 1200v- pk into 50-ohms on SSB.

#### 3/000 CU from main 200A panel to HV supply is what's
really needed. Snip a few strands to make it fit the 100 A
breaker at EACH end.

later... Jim VE7RF


R L Measures, AG6K, 805.386.3734
r@..., rlm@..., www.somis.org


hbmandel
 

Bob,

Who is asking for any retractions?

I didn't say to wire anything a certain way, just pointed out the
constraints I face and the considerations given when we wire up
something under the NEC code here.

I know you're lying: Ha, ha! I've seen your QTH.

You've got knob and tube wiring with knife switches and bare aluminum
#16 AWG on ceramic nailed-in insulators on the studs.

(I'm just pulling your leg, here, Bob. Your house will probably not
burn down from octopuses.)

In Kentucky I installed an Appleton plug for the gen set on the side
of the house (200 A) and ran a battery charging outlet with a twist-
loc right above it. However, inside, it's a different story. No ATC,
just two different breakers. I didn't want the gen set kicking in
when I wasn't home: Lemme decide on my own.

As for the shack, I run 60 foot 10/3 SOOW cords on four different
circuits from the sub panel, right through the laundry room and
around the office to the bench. All the grounds and grounding goes
through a wall-mounted MGB that has a 4/0 green stranded going right
out to the SAGB and everything is bonded.

I'm afraid to tear into the walls. I don't know what I'll find.

The gen set's wired similarly: The 4X2 AWG is an SOOW cord, but the
frame is directly bonded to the EGR with a dedicated rod right off
the porch.

We already have an old washing tub on the porch, and a 10 cent Coke
machine from the year Gimel, so the gen set fits right in with the
Tobacco Road decor. Hey, it's Eastern Kentucky.

The main antenna disconnect switch is from a friend's house in Elmira
where he yanked the K&T wiring when he renovated. Ceramic, brass, 5/8
blades: a beauty from 1900.

See ya!

Hal


FRANCIS CARCIA
 

We had a 37 KVA unit here to support 6 houses. one hot?night when it?popped? they hung a 50 KVA

pentalab wrote:

--- In ham_amplifiers@yahoogroups.com, "Robert B. Bonner"
> wrote:
>>
> If I ever do build that 30 x 40 garage I will probably put in a 400
amp panel out there and sub feed the house. That 200 Amp service is
pretty busy.
>

### My electrician buddy said 240V 400A service was
available...and "no sweat". 400 A = 96 Kva ! 200A = 48 Kva.
I still don't get it. I have "200 A service".... and SO do my
15 neighbours... all hanging from the SAME 50 Kva pole pig ! Some
of my neigbours have a secondary suite in their homes... with a 2nd
elctric stove, etc.

### since we all got natural gas back in 1992... most of the
electric hot water tanks and oil furnaces have gone bye bye...
reducing the overall load..a bit. I still don't see any natural
gas clothes dryers..yet. Back East, they all have em... plus
gas ranges. My hot water tank, fireplace, and furnace all run on
natural gas.

### Bottom line is... when I smoke the pole pig at dinner time one
night..... I guess I can just whine to the pwr co... and say .."I'm
supposed to be getting 200A CCS service... so where is it? "

### The biggest pole mount pole pig I have seen is 100 KVA. But
these were special one off units...designed to drop 25 kv down to
12.5 kv..... then 12.5 kv into our vault xfmr at work... where the
vault xfmr dropped it again to 208/120. This is all 3 phase... and
both the 3 x old 75 kva xfmr's.. and the 3 x new 100 kva xfmr's
are huge... when u see em on the grnd. Every time I see 3 x
75/100 kva xfmr's.. all on the same pole, I cringe........ the
weight is massive.. as in 2 tons.

### anything above 100 KVA per phase... and it then goes
on the grnd.

Later... Jim VE7RF