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Re: Smoker contamination removal
Kim Herron
That type of thing happens when you inadvertently mix an ammonia based cleaner with a chlorine based cleaner. You get the same kind of gas that was used on? troops during WW 1.? Ain't good.? Even crap that's marketed to be used as a janitorial product can really screw you up.? I have a permanently damaged set of lungs, courtesy of USPS, because the floor cleaner they use makes people sick and mixed at high concentrations, it's VERY bad.? Don't ask how I know.? You don't recover from what I have. Kim Herron W8ZV kim.herron@... 1-616-677-3706
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:06:43 PM EST, Michael <ironcoder@...> wrote:
This is an important caution below from Kim. I did mix cleaners together for a difficult cleaning. It hurt my lungs and put me in bed for a day. I did recover. I realized I was being poisoned before it permanently damaged me or killed me. Michael On 12/14/2024 11:59 AM, Kim Herron
wrote:
Just a caution here.? Be
VERY careful about what you mix together.? It's very easy to
poison yourself from a BAD reaction of the chemicals.? Just
a heads up for others.? Personally I've always used Dawn
dishwashing detergent in my ultrasonic cleaner.? It works
just fine.?
Kim Herron W8ZV
kim.herron@... 1-616-677-3706
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 11:34:14 AM EST,
Technotronic Dimensions
<steve@...> wrote:
Latest photo of the chassis as I am removing
and cleaning each individual
assembly.
Just took the top bread slicer out and I have
a seperate plastic container I
will fill with the Fan-monia
and let it soak in there a while, then I pick
it up and shake it around so
the stuff bubbles and does further cleaning,
and repeat. Seems to loosen alot of not all
the niccotine sludge.
I had to suppliment the Fantastick with some
stuff Wallmart sells called
Purple Power, seems to be a general purpose
degreaser but sold in a larger container.
Along the way I found a doorknob cap had
broke or maybe been defective from
the factory and will have to order a new one.
I know from past experience niccotine is
EXTEMELY ignitable and with this
amp delivering 1500W RF power with
I believe 2800VDC as the plate supply, the
fact its everywhere left me no
choice but to be as picky as possible
to get 95% or more of the amp clean.
The blower fan is still in there and its
loaded with the stuff.
--
Steve Hearns [ KA2PTE ]
Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA]
E-Mail: Steve@...
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Re: Smoker contamination removal
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThis is an important caution below from Kim. I did mix cleaners together for a difficult cleaning. It hurt my lungs and put me in bed for a day. I did recover. I realized I was being poisoned before it permanently damaged me or killed me. Michael On 12/14/2024 11:59 AM, Kim Herron
wrote:
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Re: Smoker contamination removal
Kim Herron
Just a caution here.? Be VERY careful about what you mix together.? It's very easy to poison yourself from a BAD reaction of the chemicals.? Just a heads up for others.? Personally I've always used Dawn dishwashing detergent in my ultrasonic cleaner.? It works just fine.? Kim Herron W8ZV kim.herron@... 1-616-677-3706
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 11:34:14 AM EST, Technotronic Dimensions <steve@...> wrote:
Latest photo of the chassis as I am removing and cleaning each individual assembly. Just took the top bread slicer out and I have a seperate plastic container I will fill with the Fan-monia and let it soak in there a while, then I pick it up and shake it around so the stuff bubbles and does further cleaning, and repeat. Seems to loosen alot of not all the niccotine sludge. I had to suppliment the Fantastick with some stuff Wallmart sells called Purple Power, seems to be a general purpose degreaser but sold in a larger container. Along the way I found a doorknob cap had broke or maybe been defective from the factory and will have to order a new one. I know from past experience niccotine is EXTEMELY ignitable and with this amp delivering 1500W RF power with I believe 2800VDC as the plate supply, the fact its everywhere left me no choice but to be as picky as possible to get 95% or more of the amp clean. The blower fan is still in there and its loaded with the stuff. -- Steve Hearns [ KA2PTE ] Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA] WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM E-Mail: Steve@... |
Re: Smoker contamination removal
Latest photo of the chassis as I am removing and cleaning each individual
assembly. Just took the top bread slicer out and I have a seperate plastic container I will fill with the Fan-monia and let it soak in there a while, then I pick it up and shake it around so the stuff bubbles and does further cleaning, and repeat. Seems to loosen alot of not all the niccotine sludge. I had to suppliment the Fantastick with some stuff Wallmart sells called Purple Power, seems to be a general purpose degreaser but sold in a larger container. Along the way I found a doorknob cap had broke or maybe been defective from the factory and will have to order a new one. I know from past experience niccotine is EXTEMELY ignitable and with this amp delivering 1500W RF power with I believe 2800VDC as the plate supply, the fact its everywhere left me no choice but to be as picky as possible to get 95% or more of the amp clean. The blower fan is still in there and its loaded with the stuff. -- Steve Hearns [ KA2PTE ] Technotronic Dimensions, VT [USA] WWW.TECHNOTRONIC-DIMENSIONS.COM E-Mail: Steve@... |
Re: HV Wire
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks for sending twice. ? From: [email protected]
<[email protected]> On Behalf Of Alan - W5ARM via groups.io
Sent: 12 December, 2024 9:03 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [ham-amplifiers] HV Wire ? On Sun, Nov 24, 2024 at 01:10 PM, Walter wrote:
Hey... just a quick FYI (for future use): ? It is NOT needed nor required to access the target webpage. ? ?Your link should have looked like this: ? ? // 73, ~Alan |
Re: HV Wire
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks for the heads up, Alan ? From: [email protected]
<[email protected]> On Behalf Of Alan - W5ARM via groups.io
Sent: 12 December, 2024 9:03 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [ham-amplifiers] HV Wire ? On Sun, Nov 24, 2024 at 01:10 PM, Walter wrote:
Hey... just a quick FYI (for future use): ? It is NOT needed nor required to access the target webpage. ? ?Your link should have looked like this: ? ? // 73, ~Alan |
Re: HV Wire
Mcmaster carrs prices are absurd....and are? per foot !!?
I used rolls of belden 10 kv test prod wire.? It comes in red or black.? 18 ga stranded...and silicone rubber...and flexible as spaghetti.? ? Rated for 10 kv and aprx .1988" OD.? I would not use it externally though....... it's prone to nicks on anything. And it will also self seal.? On the hb amp, for EXTERNAL? B+? ?between racks,? I gave up on connectors and hv wire.? ? Just used RG-393, since I have a 200' roll of it.? ?I used those cinch down fittings, that are used for strain relief for cables.? Also called cable glans.? U can even get em in sweeping right angles.? Inside the cabinet, the braid of the RG-213 / RG-393 is peeled way back, like 2"- 3"...then chopped off.? ?Perhaps? 1/2" to 3/4" of braid exposed. (and 2-3"? of center conductor and dielectric).? Copper strap is wrapped around the exposed braid. Machine screwed and soldered.? ?Other end of the same copper strap is machine screwed to the chassis.? Center conductor gets a crimped and soldered lug...and goes to B+.? The cable glans provides for strain relief.? A ty-rap can be placed around the 213 / 393 outer jacket, for extra strain relief.? Same rigmarole at the other end of the coax on next rack cabinet.? Then the B+ is on the center conductor, and the braid is 100% bonded to the chassis at each end of the cable.? ?Then there is no way to kill urself.? RG-59U? will easily pass a 30 kv hi-pot test.? 213 U will pass a 50 kv hi-pot test...and 393 teflon coax would be through the stratosphere.? ?213-u was used in some labs to handle 50 kvdc on a daily basis.? With coax, the issue is not the dielectric? HV standoff...... it's how far back u peel the braid at each end.? ?That's called....'surface creep' ....and typ, 1" per 10 kv is recommended.? On that 6700 vdc supply I built years ago, it used oil caps.....and was also wired externally to a bank of 20x 2000uf lytics.? ?I used Belden? 10 kv test prod wire....and new millens at each end...to get from small rack, to small mating box above it.? ? ? I got my forearm close to the B+ external wire......and all the hair on my forearm stuck straight out !? That freaked me out.? Inside the HV supply / RF deck, anything will work as long as its HV rated.? You can get proper HV connectors for 213 / 393 coax.? They look almost identical to a PL-259 / SO-239 on the outside, on the inside, they have the tubular insulation that is 2-3-4" long for 10-15-20 kv rating.? ?They are stupid expensive, but are abt the only real deal HV connector made for coax.? At the telco I worked at, the electrical sub contractor who looked after the 450 kva / 2000 kva vault xfmr, had a 0-100 kv? hi-pot tester.? ?I don't have access to this stuff since being retired.? ? Never did get to test some 393 teflon coax.? ? |
Re: HV Wire
On Sun, Nov 24, 2024 at 01:10 PM, Walter wrote:
Hey... just a quick FYI (for future use):
When posting web links, everything AFTER the question mark - and including the question mark (?) - in the destination URL, can be removed (i.e., deleted). That info is [generally] specific to you, your browser, your login, etc. ?
It is NOT needed nor required to access the target webpage.
?
?Your link should have looked like this:
?
?
//
73,
~Alan
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Re: FL-2100Z Mods
Akek, That worked! Thanx. My Kenwood has a soft start in it already (Kessler). My Henry (2K-3) about once every three months will trip the breaker when turned on. I can live with that I guess. The amp was built in 1968 so I guess it can stay the way it is. Plus for my "test" amp, I use the MFJ external step start, ICP-240. I think the Henry is about maximum for that MFJ. So you're using the NTC in place of a resistor in the soft start. I never thought of that but obviously it works. The NTC in my Astron RS-50 is always in the circuit. 7 years or so used just about everyday and it's obviously holding up. Yep, different than an amp though. 73, Bob W4JFA On Mon, Dec 9, 2024 at 4:33?PM Alek Petkovic via <vk6apk=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: FL-2100Z Mods
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Bob Search for 100A 4000W High-Power Soft Start Circuit Power Board for Class A Amplifier Amp73, Alek. On 9/12/2024 10:00 pm, Bob via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: FL-2100Z Mods
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIn the soft start device I'm talking about, it gets switched out
of circuit by the 100A relay, just like the resistor in a normal
slow start. Alek VK6APK On 9/12/2024 11:04 pm, Bill K3HZP via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: FL-2100Z Mods
The SB220 has a separate filament transfomer but since the line feeding it and the plate transformer is the same, any sag on the line voltage due to plate primary current drawn by the plate transformer will affect the filament voltage.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Monday, December 9, 2024, 10:04 AM, Bill K3HZP via groups.io <hzp_electronics@...> wrote:
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Re: FL-2100Z Mods
I have mixed emotions about NTC resistors.? I tried one on my SB-220 and found that the resistance would change between idle and full plate current.? The large current change caused the filament voltage to change since it uses the same transformer.? Because of the filament voltage change under load, I took it out.?
Bill K3HZP |
Re: FL-2100Z Mods
Alek, Angus, I couldn't make those ebay numbers work but if you do a search on ebay for "NTC resistor" you get several. I had to use one in my 50 amp Astron (RS-50) linear power supply. It would sometimes trip the breaker. at start up The one I used is... SL322R025. It solved?the problem. It's been at least 7 years with no problems. Here's a link... I originally got the info from "repeater builder"? 73, Bob W4JFA On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 10:49?PM Alek Petkovic via <vk6apk=[email protected]> wrote:
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Re: FL-2100Z Mods
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýG'day Angus. Sorry for the delay. I missed your email and I'm just cleaning up my emails and noticed this one. Yes, the NTC works. I use them in this form for a lot of amps that I build. See Ebay Item number 402565661699. They are compact and work extremely well. I've never bothered with soft starts for the little Yaesu amps, as all the Yaesus I've worked on, have excessive filament voltage at the filament pins when connected to our AC mains. A low value of resistance made up of 5W wirewound resistors in parallel in series with the filaments brings the volts back from around 6.9 - 7.0V back down to the nominal 6.3V. This resistance, usually around 0.15 Ohms, also provides a measure of inrush protection to the filaments. This is very important when using Chinese valves, which hate excessive volts on the filament. Cheers from sunny Binningup, Western Australia. Alek VK6APK On 16/11/2024 5:06 am, AngusGM6AGC via
groups.io wrote:
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