¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io

Vibration monitor schematics posted


 

I put schematics for both the remote sensor and base unit into the
Piezo Film directory. I'll start breadboarding this stuff this
weekend (I work saturdays).

No doubt I have errors in the schematics which I'll stumble across
as I build the circuit. If anyone spots something wrong with the
concepts - feel free to be brutally critical 8)


Stefan Trethan
 

You could of course add the 2,5V already with the first opamp, saving the second opamp...
I don't think that adjusting this zenter value is strictly necessary (if you want no pot
in the sensor box which i expect), it could be zeroed by the atmega software i expect.

but the opamp will not cost much so...

ST

On Sat, 03 Apr 2004 16:05:14 -0000, ghidera2000 <ghidera2000@...> wrote:

I put schematics for both the remote sensor and base unit into the
Piezo Film directory. I'll start breadboarding this stuff this
weekend (I work saturdays).

No doubt I have errors in the schematics which I'll stumble across
as I build the circuit. If anyone spots something wrong with the
concepts - feel free to be brutally critical 8)



Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT

Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Electronics_101-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


 

--- In Electronics_101@..., Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
You could of course add the 2,5V already with the first opamp,
saving the
second opamp...
I don't think that adjusting this zenter value is strictly
necessary (if
you want no pot
in the sensor box which i expect), it could be zeroed by the atmega
software i expect.

but the opamp will not cost much so...

ST
True, software zero would be easy to handle. How would I add the
offset with only one op-amp stage free? I have no idea how to
configure the other half of the sensor amp to provide the 1.25V
offset.

Actually... I have to go back and look at my 4-20ma stuff in the
files section. I think the first stage op-amp did something similar.
I almost had a brain hemmorage getting to understand how it works
when I did that circuit. It was only extreme patience on the part of
people like Mariss and Tracy Allen (stamp group) that I finally "got
it".

Oh well, time for work 8(


Stefan Trethan
 

simply look at basic opamp circuits, especially inverting and noninverting summing amps
and diff. amps.
you will figure it out..

ST

On Sat, 03 Apr 2004 18:10:38 -0000, ghidera2000 <ghidera2000@...> wrote:

--- In Electronics_101@..., Stefan Trethan
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
You could of course add the 2,5V already with the first opamp,
saving the
second opamp...
I don't think that adjusting this zenter value is strictly
necessary (if
you want no pot
in the sensor box which i expect), it could be zeroed by the atmega
software i expect.

but the opamp will not cost much so...

ST
True, software zero would be easy to handle. How would I add the
offset with only one op-amp stage free? I have no idea how to
configure the other half of the sensor amp to provide the 1.25V
offset.

Actually... I have to go back and look at my 4-20ma stuff in the
files section. I think the first stage op-amp did something similar.
I almost had a brain hemmorage getting to understand how it works
when I did that circuit. It was only extreme patience on the part of
people like Mariss and Tracy Allen (stamp group) that I finally "got
it".

Oh well, time for work 8(




Yahoo! Groups Links

To visit your group on the web, go to:


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Electronics_101-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


Scott Thompson
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Just got a chance to browse the schematic.
?
Looks pretty comprehensive and will require further study, but your input power connector is wired so that it shorts out the battery.
?
Thanks for sharing,
Scotty
?
?

----- Original Message -----
Sent: 4/3/2004 9:05:59 AM
Subject: [Electronics_101] Vibration monitor schematics posted

I put schematics for both the remote sensor and base unit into the
Piezo Film directory. I'll start breadboarding this stuff this
weekend (I work saturdays).

No doubt I have errors in the schematics which I'll stumble across
as I build the circuit. If anyone spots something wrong with the
concepts - feel free to be brutally critical 8)




 

--- In Electronics_101@..., "Scott Thompson"
<electronguy@e...> wrote:
Just got a chance to browse the schematic.

Looks pretty comprehensive and will require further study, but
your input power connector is wired so that it shorts out the
battery.

Thanks for sharing,
Scotty
Doh! I put the battery+ to ground instead of the supply... Good
spotting ;)

I've actually done a lot of thinking about this circuit and I've
come to the conclusion that I have no idea how to effectively catch
the average peak vibration and non-average peak spikes.

I was thinking of putting a precision rectifier in the sensor box,
adding gain in the monitor box then splitting the signal into two.
Once would go straight to the ADC for measuring the highest spikes
while the other would go to a capacitor for electrical averaging of
the peaks. That way I can do the fast sampling for spikes without
the overhead of peak value discovery and averaging (20 samples per
wave thing) and just a single sample to find the average peak.

Sounds good in theory out now I have to figure out how to do it 8).

Probably use an OPA2340 to split the (rectified) signal into two and
add gain, then experiment from there.

Oh and, I did some experimenting with PWM signals through a long
cable. Without a resistor added, the signal was distorted. I added a
1K resistor and the signal came out a lot cleaner. Think I'm getting
a grasp of this cable capacitance problem. Its not so much added
noise from the enviroment as it is the cable capacitance distorting
the signal thats already there. Square waves turn into rounded
corner waves and the amplitude bounces around. Less current means
less capacitance effect, cleaner signal.


Scott Thompson
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

>I've actually done a lot of thinking about this circuit and I've
>come to the conclusion that I have no idea how to effectively catch
>the average peak vibration and non-average peak spikes.
?
A Fluke 199 ScopeMeter in TrendPlot mode or a Fluke 189 Multimeter
with FlukeView Forms software could capture those +/- 70V spikes.
The 189 gives you the max/min/avg for all readings it logs.

>I was thinking of putting a precision rectifier in the sensor box,
>adding gain in the monitor box then splitting the signal into two.
>Once would go straight to the ADC for measuring the highest spikes
>while the other would go to a capacitor for electrical averaging of
>the peaks. That way I can do the fast sampling for spikes without
>the overhead of peak value discovery and averaging (20 samples per
>wave thing) and just a single sample to find the average peak.
This sounds very reasonable to me.? My color organ was built on a
precision rectifier followed by six RC integrators.? These were fed
into a quad comparator.? Let me know if you need schematics for a
precision rectifier.
?
>Probably use an OPA2340 to split the (rectified) signal into two and
>add gain, then experiment from there.
Yes, I was just going to suggest a buffer before the averaging circuit.

>Oh and, I did some experimenting with PWM signals through a long
>cable. Without a resistor added, the signal was distorted. I added a
>1K resistor and the signal came out a lot cleaner. Think I'm getting
>a grasp of this cable capacitance problem. Its not so much added
>noise from the enviroment as it is the cable capacitance distorting
>the signal thats already there. Square waves turn into rounded
>corner waves and the amplitude bounces around. Less current means
>less capacitance effect, cleaner signal.
?
The resistor and the capacitance of the cable will form a low-pass filter.
This one's got me perplexed because your S/N ratio will be less.? Not sure
what you mean by amplitude bouncing around.? I would suspect that your
driver circuit is not capable of driving highly capacative loads.? It may
not be putting out enough current or has a lot of ringing, etc.? Place
a 50 ohm resistor between the output of the driver in the feedback loop and
see if it drives the capacitance with more stability.

This is interesting to me, so please keep me informed.
?
Good luck,
Scotty