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I do not recommend any value.? It is for you to decide.? Read on. The size of the package it is in makes little if any difference.? The color makes some difference, but the key, most important

wn4isx <wn4isx@...> wrote: And to make matters worse, some sets used a single-pole mains switch connected to the chassis. So, plud it in one way, it's live when it's on, the other way it's

cheers andy,i thought thats what i would have to do,its no problem as i fixed my eagle issue that was giving me grief,thanks all+73

Thank you for your reply. Re R3 resistor. The LED is a 5mm *red* one, and the input voltage is 5-12VDC, but I will be running it at 9VDC. What would you recommend if I was to replace the 270K

I would think so - yes,? yes, and yes. FYI, a Tantalum capacitor *is* an electrolytic.? The two main kinds of electrolytic caps are Aluminum and Tantalum. Electrolytics may not be the world's

Paul I agree that it is not the best, but found it quite easy by rotating the parts to approximate the schematic then just link them using the rats nest lines l linked them all up. Tony

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /Flashing LED circuit_2_PCB layout.jpg (

I am also attaching to the files, a scan of the PCB solder side. Hope it is clear enough. The capacitor is located between the resistors R1 & R3. Ian

Ian Bell <genealogyinfo@...> added folder */Further to my query of a flashing LED circuit not working* *Description:* Circuit for "Further to my query of a flashing LED circuit not working"

Hi there, again, Further to my query of a flashing LED circuit not working. From all the comments I've had, it seems as though it is a "dud" circuit, consequently I have gone to the "Plan B" circuit

If they were, I think there would be no point to calling it 55V-55V, or 55 volts on each line.? The implication is that each line's voltage is measured against some other reference - presumably,

By the way, the 1K resistor R1 does nothing useful.? Because you drove the Base with a current source, the resistor R1 does not change that in any way. Andy

Because you can't get any more current than that.? When it is in saturation, it can't turn on any harder and that is all the collector current that is possible.? It is basically limited by the rest

I just checked the settings, and it says attached files are automatically Stripped (removed from messages) by the servers.? So, don't try. The best way to do that is by uploading them to Files (

You can use FreeRoute with KiCad. Using with KiCAD | FreeRouting Documentation freerouting.org

I recall my mother complaining that she felt a "tingle" when touching the stainless steel edge on her Formica counter top while opening the refrigerator. I was probably 10 at the time but I knew

i gave up on kicad as it has no autorouter,i am trying eagle instead now.

Hi all,is it possible to attatch a file here?,i am struggling trying to make a pcb for toner transfer using eagle and need to upload the schematic+ board files but cant see how i can do that, Is it

I think you meant Collector-Emitter saturation voltage is around 0.2V, correct?? The Base-Emitter voltage is typically 0.6V.

Hello,the purpose of biasing NPN threw current source is to calculate the limiting resistor needed for supplying the base of the NPN. Why in saturation Ic/Ib is ver very small? Thanks.