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File /stabilock si4015/stab files uploaded
#file-notice
Group Notification
The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group. By: Paul M3VUV <nanovnauser@...> Description: |
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Battery powered soldering iron
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI received this this mornng. FYI all.
Ken Gordon W7EkB
------- Forwarded message follows -------
Date sent:?Mon, 5 May 2025 11:34:46 -0500
Subject:?Re: Iso-Tip.com "IsoTio cordless soldering iron BATTERY"
To:?kgordon2006@...
From:?Shantelle Rich <info@...>
Good morning Ken,
Thank you for reaching out. You can purchase replacement for both the NiCad and Lithium battery on our site via the link below. Please note the color/model in the description to ensure you are ordering the right replacement. The only iron that takes the Lithium battery is the blue 8000 iron. ? iso-tip.com Cordless Soldering Irons and Accessories - Iso-Tip Ideal for the service technician, craftsman or hobbyist, these cordless soldering irons and accessories offer convenient operation with a light-weight and balanced design to guard against user-fatigue. ?? On 5/3/2025 11:24 AM, Ken Gordon wrote:?
From: Ken Gordon <kgordon2006@...>
Subject: IsoTio cordless soldering iron BATTERY 226 N. Washington St. Message Body: Can we buy a replacement battery for the IsoTip? --
Shantelle Rich ISOTIP Product Manager Customer Service/Order Entry Senasys Inc. 1435 International Drive, Eau Claire, WI 54701 Main: (715) 831-6353 RFQs should be sent to info@.... Purchase orders should be sent to orders@... ------- End of forwarded message -------
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Added Folder /stabilock si4015
#file-notice
Group Notification
Paul M3VUV <nanovnauser@...> added folder /stabilock si4015 Description: |
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Re: Buffer amplifier for 10MHz ?
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Re: Buffer amplifier for 10MHz ?
I agree, if you have connections with a BNC termination, the easiest way is to put a 'T' at the counter with a 50 ohm BNC load attached. Driving a cable with a square wave without termination will produce all kinds of ringing and distortion. Dan Kahn On Sunday, May 4, 2025 at 11:18:01 PM EDT, Andy via groups.io <ai.egrps@...> wrote: On Sun, May 4, 2025 at 07:35 PM, David Slipper wrote: Welcome to the world of Signal Integrity and transmission lines and reflections.
Absolutely.? It happens when the coax cable does not see a far-end termination impedance close to its own characteristic impedance.? Then you get a reflection, and ringing.? The faster the edges or longer the cable, the worse the ringing is. ? Just in case, make sure that everything is grounded (to the common signal ground) everywhere.? Any cable without a ground connection would look bad.? I'm not talking about making connections to earth or anything like that.? Just make sure the cables and the buffer amp share the same grounds as one another and that they actually connect to it. ?
Most likely, the cable's impedance is either 50 or 75 ohms.? Can you read if the cable has an RG-number?? RG-58 is 50 ohms.? RG-59 is 75 ohms.? Most lab equipment uses 50 ohms.? ?Video tends to be 75 ohms. ? Adding a 50 to 70 ohm resistor across the signal at the far end is probably "good enough" for either type of coax. ? An alternative is to match the impedance at the driving end, known as "source termination".? To do that, add a resistor in series with the signal, directly at the driving IC's output pin.? You might use something smaller than 50 such as 30 - 40 ohms, counting on there being some 10 to 20 ohms of effective impedance internal to the driving part.? On the other hand, if the driving part happens to be several 74LVC1G17 gates in parallel, then their effective source impedance would be less, so the series resistor would need to be closer to 50 ohms to get a better match. ? If you do use source termination, and add a termination at the far end too, then the signal's amplitude gets cut in half.? That is probably not an issue unless the counter requires a signal greater than 4 V. ?
Check to see if the counter's reference input does not already have a 50 ohm internal termination.? It is possible that its reference input is terminated (with 50 ohms) but its signal input is high-Z. ? Andy ? ? |
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Re: Buffer amplifier for 10MHz ?
On Sun, May 4, 2025 at 07:35 PM, David Slipper wrote:
Welcome to the world of Signal Integrity and transmission lines and reflections.
Absolutely.? It happens when the coax cable does not see a far-end termination impedance close to its own characteristic impedance.? Then you get a reflection, and ringing.? The faster the edges or longer the cable, the worse the ringing is.
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Just in case, make sure that everything is grounded (to the common signal ground) everywhere.? Any cable without a ground connection would look bad.? I'm not talking about making connections to earth or anything like that.? Just make sure the cables and the buffer amp share the same grounds as one another and that they actually connect to it.
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Most likely, the cable's impedance is either 50 or 75 ohms.? Can you read if the cable has an RG-number?? RG-58 is 50 ohms.? RG-59 is 75 ohms.? Most lab equipment uses 50 ohms.? ?Video tends to be 75 ohms.
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Adding a 50 to 70 ohm resistor across the signal at the far end is probably "good enough" for either type of coax.
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An alternative is to match the impedance at the driving end, known as "source termination".? To do that, add a resistor in series with the signal, directly at the driving IC's output pin.? You might use something smaller than 50 such as 30 - 40 ohms, counting on there being some 10 to 20 ohms of effective impedance internal to the driving part.? On the other hand, if the driving part happens to be several 74LVC1G17 gates in parallel, then their effective source impedance would be less, so the series resistor would need to be closer to 50 ohms to get a better match.
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If you do use source termination, and add a termination at the far end too, then the signal's amplitude gets cut in half.? That is probably not an issue unless the counter requires a signal greater than 4 V.
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Check to see if the counter's reference input does not already have a 50 ohm internal termination.? It is possible that its reference input is terminated (with 50 ohms) but its signal input is high-Z.
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Andy
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAndy,The Isotip 8000 (lipo) I have went through a tip in 2 weeks of occasional use.? Maybe on 30 times for a minute or so each.? That was when I quit using it! If it was not for the different footprint for a common bulb that it would eat in just a few uses and the quick demise or new tips I think it would be a great addition to the shack.? I know my 7800 (red fast charge) nicad version worked very well but that was in the 70's. Jim On 5/3/2025 1:13 PM, Andy via groups.io
wrote:
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Re: Buffer amplifier for 10MHz ?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
Hi, as per the advice given in this thread I am using an
SN74LVC1G17 to drive a BNC cable but while the unloaded signal of
10Mhz is a nice square wave? with a bit of ringing when I look at
the cable signal when connected to a counter by 2m of BNC cable
there is a lot of distortion that sometimes makes the counter show
twice or three times the frequency :-(? The input to the device is
a nice clean square wave between 0v and 4.5v I suspect the counter has a high impedance input so could this be due to a reflection ??? If so what sort of termination would help??? I want the signal to be used as a reference for the counter. Thanks Dave
On 09/02/2025 11:01, wn4isx via
groups.io wrote:
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
On Sat, May 3, 2025 at 03:16 PM, Jim Pruitt WA7DUY wrote:
.... Also they use a 222 bulb (not sure why no LED but maybeWho needs an indicator, when you can grab the tip and see if it's hot? :-)? :-)
...? I think they eat bulbs and tipsThat could be a good guess.? Bulbs did not need limiting resistors in the old days, before LEDs .? (Well, neon bulbs too, for a different reason.)? It might be the same for the tip too, as its resistance would increase as it got hot and limit the current eventually.? I wonder if they fail more from repeated on/off cycling. ...? The ISOTIP are handy but because they eat tips and bulbs they areMaybe worth the price if you need to use them for work.? As they say, you get what you paid for. ?
Andy
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
I bought the ISOTIP irons in the 70's or 80's and loved them.? The red (fast charge) version was the best.? They used Nicad or nmh (nickel metal halide) batteries and yes those batteries are still available.? Maybe not from the current manufacturer.? I also have 2 of their Lipo version.? I have found that all of them EAT tips! Those tips are $6 and $7 each. Also they use a 222 bulb (not sure why no LED but maybe voltatge-2.4 and/or 3.7v too low) and they eat those bulbs.? Those 222 bulbs are special made for Isotip as they are bayonet base where regular 222 bulbs are screw in base so Isotip gets something like $2 each for what would be 50? from regular suppliers.? Changing the socket in the iron to a screw in base or if an LED would work with those low battery voltages that would be the way to go.? I think they eat bulbs and tips because there are no limiting resistors to limit current through the tip and bulb but that is only a guess on my part.
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The ISOTIP are handy but because they eat tips and bulbs they are expensive...not to mention the $100 purchase price. I tried one of the CHEAP usb powered irons that were common on ebay but they were a royal pain!? They would shut off in a few seconds (maybe a minute) and not come back on.? I assume it is because they try to draw too much current out of the usb port or usb charger. Anyway that was a waste of money. There are battery powered corded irons that either clip to a SLA battery or plug in to a cigarette lighter plug (do cars still have those?). They worked ok but again you are restrained by a cord and have to pack around a large (SLA) battery or have access to a vehicle with the cigarette lighter socket. Good luck. Jim Pruitt WA7DUY On 5/3/2025 8:53 AM, Kenneth G. Gordon via groups.io wrote:
Many years ago, I used an IsoTip battery-powered soldering iron for work in the field on seismic arrays. It always worked extremely well and reliably. |
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
On 3 May 2025 at 8:59, Roy J. Tellason, Sr. via groups.io wrote:
On Saturday 03 May 2025 11:53:42 am Kenneth G. Gordon via groups.ioHmm....well, you might check on Amazon. The new IsoTip uses a LifePo4 (sp?) battery which may be avaiable. I know my own IsoTip died a LONG time ago, and I no longer have it. I have contacted Senasys, the maker/marketer for the IsoTip, and will report here what I learn. Ken W7EKB |
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
On Saturday 03 May 2025 11:53:42 am Kenneth G. Gordon via groups.io wrote:
Many years ago, I used an IsoTip battery-powered soldering iron for work in the field on seismic arrays. It always worked extremely well and reliably.Those are still available on Amazon for around $100.00Ken W7EKBI have an Isotip 60, but it needs a battery which is no longer available from the company. :-( -- Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and ablest -- form of life in this section of space, ?a critter that can be killed but can't be tamed. ?--Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters" - Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James M Dakin |
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMany years ago, I used an IsoTip battery-powered soldering iron for work in the field on seismic arrays. It always worked extremely well and reliably. Those are still available on Amazon for around $100.00 Ken W7EKB Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone |
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Re: Battery powered soldering iron
A feedback for those that might be interested in this product:
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It's construction quality does not live up to its fame. The DC plug centre pin is held in place by nothing that friction force alone. Any extra force, or tighter DC male plug, and that pin is gone! The USB-C is ok, but doesn't provide full power as the DC plug. Was able to save my unit, but implied having a permanent cable out the back (required to work anyways) Definitely not worth the price, if you ask me Nuno T. -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Nuno T. Sent: 03 April 2025 17:16 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electronics101] Battery powered soldering iron Seems a very good product. I'll consider it. Thanks Nuno T. -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike turner via groups.io Sent: 03 April 2025 00:42 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [electronics101] Battery powered soldering iron For small work, my rig is a Pinecil running off a Dewalt battery & usb-c adapter which has a belt clip. -- Mike Turner MP-Z35 -- Nuno T. -- Nuno T. |
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Re: SMD G1 transistor
Thanks Andy. How do you reply quoting parts of the message? Slick.?
yes Colorado is a model number of a Chev 4 door truck. Sorry I didn¡¯t consider that it could confuse. This is not a car group.?
The G1 is stamped on several components and a diode check with the meter I guessed they are NPN transistors. Somewhere in my searches 2N2222 came up and that seemed reasonable to me.? There is very little pad left on the G1 part for soldering. I probably should clean all solder off the board. Possibly parts of the pads are still there. I will do that. Vibration shouldn¡¯t be too severe. Would an intermittent short somewhere in the wires to the RR door melt the solder?? ?Seems a bit extreme to me. The two boards are similar but have obvious differences since original is 4door and the salvage is 2 door. The original part uses Qxx for transistors numbers. The salvage are identified with TRxx.?
If this board can¡¯t be repaired I will disconnect the wires to the motor and wire up an external reversing switch for the driver door using the same 12 volt DC supply. The RR door works fine from the passenger position just not from the driver control station. I can live with that inconvenience?
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Re: SMD G1 transistor
On Tue, Apr 29, 2025 at 02:57 PM, Pfaff1222 wrote:
I'm going to assume that is the year and model of a motor vehicle.? Not everyone speaks the same language, and "Colorado" doesn't make me think "car" nearly as much as "state", but I'm sure to you it's different.)
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Did the Google search include the kind of circuit board where it was used?? I am certainly no expert on in-house part numbers, but I would be cautious, if the "G1" was the only thing you were going from.
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G1 might mean anything, including a datecode, or a code for the manufacturer.? (But what do I know?!)
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That's pretty good information right there. Is it subject to much vibration?? Maybe consider a dab of glue or silicone to hold the transistor from shaking free.? Also, try adding thin wires soldered down to the traces leading to the pads, to get better contact with them, if you can access them. That's a tough choice.? Since the 2N2222 part seems very likely, I think I might go with that.? Unless it comes off again and you can't get another one in its place.? What can you lose? ?
Like I say, the code printed on the transistor might not mean anything important, but that is only a guess.? Can you tell if both boards have the same finished assembly part number?? I'm sure the service guys would go with choice #2.
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Andy
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