Just learnt the hard way there really isn't much more in it than 5 meters.

9 or 10 meters did not work any more, so don't even try it, even with the old slow USB.

Solved the problem by putting the HUB in between. Not nice, not what i would have preferred, but works.

PS2 had no problem with 10m total.

I guess there is no point in even trying to run the LPT for 8 or 9 meters...

Strangely it seems i extended that USB camera with some simple phone cable for at least 10 meters and it still works nicely, but the hub is not recognized any more.

ST

alldatasheet.com, that's what it is--it is a link on
my work computer, not something I remember off the top
of my head. Anyhow, I did get it download; it's a
scanned copy that's why it's so large. I'll see about
uploading it to the group.


Shawn Upton, KB1CKT

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Stay in touch with your buddies all the time.

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----- Original Message -----

From: meguire

To: Electronics_101@...

Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 12:10 AM

Subject: [Electronics_101] pins too small

hi how is everyone doing , i am having a prdicament i got a chip but
dont know how to test it because the pins are two small for a
breadboard any sugessions as to how i can overcome this.

Might look in to wire wrap sockets under IC sockets Jameco?

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 07:10:36 +0200, meguire <meg5021@...> wrote:

hi how is everyone doing , i am having a prdicament i got a chip but

dont know how to test it because the pins are two small for a

breadboard any sugessions as to how i can overcome this.

You can put it on a PCB with the proper pin spacing (there are commercial PCBs for this or you can make your own/have it made).

You can also use wires to hook it up to a DIP socket for testing.

ST

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 00:50:58 +0200, lcdpublishing <lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

Ah, 19", you are going to love all that realestate!


Chris

I don't think it is much different to the 18" i use now, since the resolutions are the same.
But it will definitely be much better at the bench for programming.

The 18" annd 15" never worked together properly because of different resolutions. Basically i would most like to run a cloned display, but that doesn't work with different resolutions.

I think i'll make a drawer under the bench today for the keyboard and mouse. Could use your woodworking machines here, i see that getting awfully wobbly with the jigsaw, and i don't feel like clearing up all that stuff on the table saw. Hwo on earth decided a table is a good idea to put on a table saw? it is a prime surfact for cluttering up!


ST

On Saturday 29 April 2006 01:10 am, meguire wrote:

hi how is everyone doing , i am having a prdicament i got a chip but
dont know how to test it because the pins are two small for a
breadboard any sugessions as to how i can overcome this.

What chip is it, in what package, and what kind of test are you trying to
do?

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin

On Friday 28 April 2006 09:29 pm, Shawn Upton wrote:

I usually use (I think) datasheet.com at work; won't work at home...
Anyhow, I think datasheetarchive.com may have it, I didn't wait to see what
it would download.

Shawn

I normally use alldatasheet.com, or perhaps one or two others. Nobody seemed
to have it, but datasheetarchive.com did list it. However I've been
spending an absurd amount of time here trying to download it, and not been
successful at it -- the site lists that datasheet as being 4628.53KB in size
(a bit large, to be sure) and I get partway through that and at different
points both ends seem to decide that the transfer is done and it stops. And
the best I've been able to do is 1,160,869 bytes so far. And I've got other
things to do, so I'm giving up on it for now. I've emailed to the address
listed on that page, we'll see if I get a response...

--- "Roy J. Tellason" <rtellason@...> wrote:

Any of you guys have, or know where I can find, a
datasheet for the chip
MC1358? Got one here, and I'd like to know a bit
more of what can be done
with it...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most
unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a
critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein,
"The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a
society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin

Shawn Upton, KB1CKT

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--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin

hi how is everyone doing , i am having a prdicament i got a chip but
dont know how to test it because the pins are two small for a
breadboard any sugessions as to how i can overcome this.

I usually use (I think) datasheet.com at work; won't
work at home... Anyhow, I think datasheetarchive.com
may have it, I didn't wait to see what it would
download.

Shawn

--- "Roy J. Tellason" <rtellason@...> wrote:

Any of you guys have, or know where I can find, a
datasheet for the chip
MC1358? Got one here, and I'd like to know a bit
more of what can be done
with it...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most
unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a
critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein,
"The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a
society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin

Shawn Upton, KB1CKT

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

Any of you guys have, or know where I can find, a datasheet for the chip
MC1358? Got one here, and I'd like to know a bit more of what can be done
with it...

--
Member of the toughest, meanest, deadliest, most unrelenting -- and
ablest -- form of life in this section of space, a critter that can
be killed but can't be tamed. --Robert A. Heinlein, "The Puppet Masters"
-
Information is more dangerous than cannon to a society ruled by lies. --James
M Dakin

For small LCD's, like a single digit or a multiplexed
dual digit, it looks easy enough to do a simple
routine in the micro to drive. But what about larger
displays or if you don't want to "waste" time doing
display work? I found National's MM5453, which works
for one project, but it's by no means cheap
($4.65/each at Newark).

Shawn Upton, KB1CKT

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Ah, 19", you are going to love all that realestate!

Chris




--- In Electronics_101@..., "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

Oh well problem solved.

I just bought a working 19" (pictured working and promised working)

for

121eur, my limit was 122eur.
What insanity, having to pay half the price of a new one at the

shops.

Thanks for all the tips guys! Much appreciated as always.

Hopefully within a couple of weeks I will be re-prototyping my big
circuits that I needed the big breadboards for! Have promised myself
to finish up a couple other projects first though - too many irons in
the fire and I can't keep up :-(

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 23:00:12 +0200, <JanRwl@...> wrote:

And I thought I was slow! I figured out within 48 hours after getting my first box of "pre-bent, pre-stripped" breadboard wires that the COLORS were "tenths of the inch" (i.e., a yellow was 0.4", a blue was 0.6", etc. "Number of holes" if you are a metric-thinking person.) "Point-to-point" without slack is the NORM when doing HF or RF work, isn't it? It is far easier to "see" a circuit on the breadboard with short-as-possible wires! Just common sense! I can't imagine trying to reach in with a 'scope-probe to touch a specific terminal on a 40-pin IC when there were LOOPS sticking up all over, like a jungle-forest! EEEEEEEEWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You can't do RF on solderless breadboards anyway.
If jumper length is going to make a difference then a solderless breadboard is the wrong tool.
Proper grounding must be observed often though, because of high contact resistances. Star ground as needed and use the strips on the side.


i wouldn't see how i can get all the wires in if i would be restricted to having them all flat against the board.
Also, how would i make diagonal connections if i were limited to 100 mil pitch....

No thanks. If you want to spend hours wasting your time on a temporary circuit that's fine with me.

Getting a scope probe in with all 100mm wires is no problem at all. They can never be higher than 50mm, you can easily bend them out of the way if there is really no space. HP miniature probes fit ideally, but it is easy to make your own probe extensions with tips suitable to insert into the sockets. It's not like a forest at all, there are no leaves and the wires can't tangle because they are loops with no open end. You can go in at every point and bend the loops apart if you really need more space, but usually there are always plenty of gaps.

Having anything other than ICs flat against the breadboard is just taking up all the sockets under this wire, apart from beeing a pain to install, remove, or change.

Let's just disagree here, shall we? This way you can still carefully plan your layout and select the right wires while i'm already making the layout for the finished PCB, having just taken one wire after the other out of the box of all-identical ones without even looking.

ST

On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 20:50:34 +0200, Leon Heller <leon.heller@...> wrote:

The front is *much* thicker and stronger than the rest of the tube.



Leon

Sorry i meant to say TFT when i wrote CRT there.

So no tube.

But the back glass might be thinner as well, i dunno...

ST

--- Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

I still can't figure out how the back glass of the
CRT could possibly
break without the front beeing damaged at all.

Do you think something like a shock could do that?
The break is centered
about 2cm from the left edge.
I can't see any way to cause that even if i wanted
to on purpose...

About the only thing I can think of that could cause
that would Maybe be thermal stress or shock. Maybe
the inside glass expanded more than the case would
allow or the case shrunk more than the glass would
allow but I HIGHLY doubt that this is the case.

It also could have been dropped. I know it's not the
same thing but I've dropped calculators before and the
screens have broke with the outside glass still
intact. (I'm 6'7" so they have a long way to fall).

In any case, its a strange part to break. Good luck
with your "new" screen.

Shawn



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Oh well problem solved.

I just bought a working 19" (pictured working and promised working) for 121eur, my limit was 122eur.
What insanity, having to pay half the price of a new one at the shops.

I still can't figure out how the back glass of the CRT could possibly break without the front beeing damaged at all.

Do you think something like a shock could do that? The break is centered about 2cm from the left edge.
I can't see any way to cause that even if i wanted to on purpose...

ST