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Hello, All,
I always admired this topic on Hobby Machinist, as it gets members to share more of their shop activities.? So I thought I would start this thread here.? I've added a few posts of my own from the last few days to get the ball rolling.? I hope you find it interesting!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like looking into a dark cave.? So I finally bought some small LED lights intended for under the cabinet use and installed them.? They mount with double-sided tape, which I didn't trust on my wood enclosure top, so I printed some mounting plates, taped the lights to them, then mounted the plates with small screws.? The photos show before and after pictures of the enclosure and printer, plus a close-up of the LEDs.? No more need for a flashlight!    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Hi, I also finished printing the box and cover for my RELS joystick control, and test assembled it.? I just need to wire it up now.   -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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I made a solid block to replace the compound to have more rigidity
On Friday, 18 October 2019, 12:37:52 BST, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
Hi, I also finished printing the box and cover for my RELS joystick control, and test assembled it.? I just need to wire it up now.   -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Charlie - I'm in the process of building a 3d printer from scratch (starting to regret that decision as it's taking forever) and am planning to enclose it as well as I plan to be using ABS a lot. ?Do you have any exhaust ventilation running on your enclosure ? ?It seems to me it would be required - even at a very low cfm - in order to get the nasty fumes out of the basement.
Great light setup - I've made a note of that for future reference - thanks for posting!
Lewis
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On Oct 18, 2019, at 8:33 AM, CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote: I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like looking into a dark cave.? So I finally bought some small LED lights intended for under the cabinet use and installed them.? They mount with double-sided tape, which I didn't trust on my wood enclosure top, so I printed some mounting plates, taped the lights to them, then mounted the plates with small screws.? The photos show before and after pictures of the enclosure and printer, plus a close-up of the LEDs.? No more need for a flashlight!
<20191009_144002.jpg>
<20191016_145445.jpg>
<20191016_150203.jpg>--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Hello, All,
I always admired this topic on Hobby Machinist, as it gets members to share more of their shop activities.? So I thought I would start this thread here.? I've added a few posts of my own from the last few days to get the ball rolling.? I hope you find it interesting!
Well, today, I¡¯m trying to figure out folding a new feature into a large web application I'm responsible for :-) because I have to *work* today :-) but last weekend I got my 3D printer working
First plastic:
To get there I had to fabricate a dual rail system to support the heated bed on the Y axis, because the original design was not very good to start with, and my kit had mis-drilled holes in the bet support piece. Fortunately I had a few pieces of 20x20 around to use. The rest was some standard Al stock I could get at Ace¡?
BTW, 8-32 square nuts from Ace fit perfectly in these extrusions...
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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Hi, Les, Very nice!? I have done the same, but mine is not as elegant as yours.? I left it flat to provide multiple mounting locations for the QCTP.  -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Hi, Lewis,
No, I don't.? But now I am going to have to consider it!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Bruce,
I guess I forgot to mention that I am retired... my bad!
Very nice fix to the printer, and good looking print, from what I could see.? Congratulations!? That first print is a big accomplishment!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Ok, I'm officially stealing that idea! I really like it! Thanks for sharing and starting this thread.
Bill in OKC
On Friday, October 18, 2019, 07:34:01 AM EDT, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like looking into a dark cave.? So I finally bought some small LED lights intended for under the cabinet use and installed them.? They mount with double-sided tape, which I didn't trust on my wood enclosure top, so I printed some mounting plates, taped the lights to them, then mounted the plates with small screws.? The photos show before and after pictures of the enclosure and printer, plus a close-up of the LEDs.? No more need for a flashlight!    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Today and yesterday in fact, made one of these ER32 collet blocks ( I
did not make the actual collet ).
Quite pleased as the concentricity between a ground bar in a collet and
the faces ended up at .0005" max.
Richard
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Nice Richard, that inside thread must have been a challenge.
Ralph
On Sat, Oct 19, 2019 at 12:59 PM Richard < edelec@...> wrote: Today and yesterday in fact, made one of these ER32 collet blocks ( I
did not make the actual collet ).
Quite pleased as the concentricity between a ground bar in a collet and
the faces ended up at .0005" max.
Richard
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Not really Ralph. The RELS handled all taper cuts and threading. I made
the bronze "screw" first. I screw-cut the internal thread and tried the
"screw", a bit tight so I re-cut the internal thread about .004" deeper,
perfect. It is actually an M42 x 1mm thread but I am quoting in " so you
do not need to translate <G>. The DTI I used for concentricity checks is
imperial that is why those checks were in thousands.
Bit by bit I am working on making the an imperial RELS for you guys with
imperial lathes.
Richard
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On 19/10/2019 19:07, Ralph Hulslander wrote: Nice Richard, that inside thread must have been a challenge.
Ralph
On Sat, Oct 19, 2019 at 12:59 PM Richard <edelec@...
<mailto:edelec@...>> wrote:
Today and yesterday in fact, made one of these ER32 collet blocks ( I
did not make the actual collet ).
Quite pleased as the concentricity between a ground bar in a
collet and
the faces ended up at .0005" max.
Richard
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
printer
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Richard
Very nice. Can you please explain to the forum members the reasoning for an internal locking nut.
as opposed to the "standard" external nut.?
Cheers
--
John
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Charlie
Excellent.?
I will add to it.
Thanks
--
John
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As far as I am concerned it is solely to reduce the overhang of the bar
from the clamping point in the vice. I made this one in steel but will
make a Hex version in Aluminium as I have stock.
Richard
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On 20/10/2019 06:21, John Lindo wrote: Richard
Very nice. Can you please explain to the forum members the reasoning
for an internal locking nut.
as opposed to the "standard" external nut.
Cheers
--
John
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Bill in OKC,
You can't officially steal it from me, as I officially stole it from Hobby Machinist!? I think it generates some good exchange of ideas wherever it is.? And maybe, just maybe, it will help provide us potential answers to the dreaded spousal, "but what do you DO with it?" question!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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I like the internal nut, there has to be less overhang as Richard said, got them on my list.
Bill in OKC,
You can't officially steal it from me, as I officially stole it from Hobby Machinist!? I think it generates some good exchange of ideas wherever it is.? And maybe, just maybe, it will help provide us potential answers to the dreaded spousal, "but what do you DO with it?" question!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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I already fixed the espousal question here: I printed parts for the dishwasher that kept it going until we could afford to replace it. Thingiverse.com had a good selection of wheels, and some SS carriage bolts did the rest.? :)
Bill in OKC
On Sunday, October 20, 2019, 07:45:28 AM CDT, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
Bill in OKC,
You can't officially steal it from me, as I officially stole it from Hobby Machinist!? I think it generates some good exchange of ideas wherever it is.? And maybe, just maybe, it will help provide us potential answers to the dreaded spousal, "but what do you DO with it?" question!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
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Ralph.
see link, it?s a typical Stevenson Block you can purchase from Arc Euro.UK and many other tool houses.
Note the overhang, also if holding the blocks horizontal in standard vise, the nut is larger in diameter than the flats
this can be an issue and you then have severe overhang, and dangerous, IMHO this standard ER external ring style is suitable if the block is standing vertical only.
The internal locking ring type i much prefer.for horizontal use.
It?s all a matter of fit for use.
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures/Stevensons-ER25-Collet-Blocks
Thanks
--
John
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Bill in OKC too
John Lindo