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Hi Charlie you made a neat job on the cross slide. I was lucky that the shaft on my shortened? Nema 23 was 8mm so I could just clear using a smaller coupling without machining a pocket and as I

Hi, All, The following email was recently sent by the Institute of 3D Printing to their mailing list.? It has some potentially useful ideas for those using 3D printers, so I have copied and pasted it

Hi, Les, I used a different cross-slide connection approach, suggested by John Lindo, and made an adapter which slid over the lead screw and is pinned to it.? I think the attached photos are

Yes I cut a new cross slide thread using carbide inserted tips.then a new nut using a HSS ex Arc Euro Sean necked tool. J [email protected] wrote:

Thanks John a really good source of info, I just realised my typo on the header with double ll . I have used thread carbide inserts for cutting threads and they seem good for direct plunge cutting. I

4.2 amps.? Please see attached spec sheet for details. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

Les. No compound is magic. I have screw cut large diameter thread in steel using the ELS plunge in method, and not the normal 29 degrees compound system. Not s problem. Also used many times the auto

Hi thanks John give my regards to Richard. With regard to the compound slide removal this is my next project and I am going to order a cast Iron or steel block and machine it to size. The cross

Les Well done, all looks good. Glad you opted for a power cross slide. You may want to consider in the future removal of the compound slide. I took mine off, now with the ELS any serious angular

Thanks Les! Now your Nema 23 motor on X is what I would think of as a large Nema 23, I probably have 50 Nema 23 motors none of which is as large as your X motor. You and Charlie have some huge Nema 23

Hi Charlie see pic of the crosslide x. I had to modify the x leadscrew by drilling the end and inserting a 8mm x 50mm shaft and locking using loctite 638 Regards Les

Hi Ralph the motor on z leadscrew is a Nema 23 4.2 amp/3 NM on 10mm shaft. The motor on cross feed x is? a Nema 23? 2.8Amp 1.26 nm a shortened version about 2.1/2 inch long which is ample for my

Les, Looks great!? I would also like to see any photos of the X-axis, when you get a chance. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

les what is the motor on the leadscrew? and what did you use for X, any pictures? [email protected]> wrote:

Managed to complete the ELS on my Chester d7 lathe with great help from Richard Edwards. I can now screwcut right up to a shoulder with the help of electronic stops, taper tunring, motor crossfeed

Hi Charlie, John! Here's a link to the youtuber's blog... https://richrap.blogspot.com/2018/02/diy-heated-drybox-for-3d-printing.html Being in the US, I used the *clear* Cambro food storage container

Charlie Yes correct in your assumptions. Worth doing and a fun job to design and print. The reptile heater works well, currently the filament in the box is 27 C and humidity at 38%. At least my

Yuri shows how to read the DRO output directly or even an electronic caliper, he explains the different protocols, you do not have to use bluetooth. Interesting about TouchDRO not keeping up with

John, Just to clarify, this dry box acts to keep the filament dry WHILE printing, right?? I.E., the filament being printed sits in the box while printing?? I know some of your prints are 8+ hours,

Getting there. I used a you tube link sent via Fast Eddie , Thanks. Using a reptile heater pad and fitted a humidity/temp gauge. The frame ( 3 pieces) and spool holders ( 2 pieces) will all fit in a