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The gear version is printed as one item.? Theoretically the gears have a tiny bit of clearance.? With shrinkage they had more than a tiny bit.? I don't think it's supposed to be able to come apart.? I don't normally print 0.15mm.? I have done some 0.1mm layers but normally run 0.3mm or 0.4mm with 20% infill.?

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I suppose one could try 0.1mm or 0.2mm and maybe less infill or maybe 100% infill.? But this particular one took 3 hours.? Now that I've played with it I have issues with the design.? And the moment you add a piece with 3 pins to hold the gears at a fixed diameter the gears turn on the pins, you need lubrication and at this point might as well use the 3 or 4 bearing technique.

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Anyway, it's not worth spending money on tubing to try and make it work.

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John

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Well that was a disappointment.? I used 1.5mm and 40% infill.? After 3 hours it came off the build plate and the gears were not locked.? But it really meshes too loosely.?

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In the photo you can see a pipe cleaner I'm using as a simulated tube which shifts the assembly in the area where there is no tube and then one of the bottom gears disengages.?

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I think the only way this would work is the same way a planetary gear system does with a carrier that keeps the gear spacing correct.? Push hard enough in the no tube area and the bottom gear falls out.? You can see in the photo the bottom one barely engages.

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John

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For entertainment I've ordered this from China.? I've included the tubing because who knows how hard it might be to source.

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But having said that I'm also printing this since it doesn't need any bearings.

As soon as it's cool enough to remove from the glass build plate I'll see if the gears turn and post a picture.

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John

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A quick google search shows up items like this:

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which is a remix from

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which is a remix from

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With instructions here.

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And even more here.

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John

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I can get a pump in about two weeks through amazon.ca for $58 Cdn. ?Way too expensive if we're going to use the "Obliterate North American and European Manufacturing" (ONAEM) approach.? You can make this by purchasing this pump, then also order a small stepper motor from China.?

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Connectors and other bits from China. I'm sure it can be manufactured without using a single North American part or supplier.

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John Dammeyer.

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I cut the page into smaller pieces and translated to English and added the links.

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Product information "Pump control 1.5"

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With this board it is possible to control the peristaltic pump, which is necessary to fully use the ColdEND.

The board takes over the control of 2 valves (air and liquid)

The stepper motor is also controlled.

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There are 3 inputs on the controller.

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??? 1. For the coolant - If this input is activated, the valve for the coolant also switches automatically

??? 2. A fast feed - this means that the minimum quantity lubrication can be filled directly when the milling machine is switched on without having to adjust the settings again.

??? That was one point that always annoyed me the most about needle valves. Here you simply press the button and the pump pumps the hose for the MQL fully again. Because despite the non-return valve, some liquid keeps pulling back in the hose over the course of the day.

??? 3. The input for switching the compressed air valve - this input can optionally be used if you only want to cool with air. If this is not desired, the inlet for the cooling lubricant and the inlet for the air can simply be bridged.

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All 3 inputs work both with 24V control voltage from the CNC control (provided that GND is connected to one another) and with a switching contact.

The pump output and the duration of the "spit mode" are determined via the potentiometer. If the potentiometer for the spit mode is turned all the way to the left, it is deactivated.

The function of the spit mode enables the cooling lubricant to be delivered quickly every time the minimum quantity lubrication is switched on, e.g. by means of an M7 command. Thus becomes

either the cooling nozzle is filled and cooling lubricant is immediately available again on the tool. Or if more time has been set using the potentiometer

the tool is pre-lubricated before it is engaged.

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The pump control board is supplied without additional components. So further components and a little soldering experience are needed to finish assembling the board!

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All links marked with * are affiliate links, if you buy with them I get a small commission, nothing changes for you.

The links lead to products that are examples of what you want to use in the end with your ColdEND. It is just a matter of

a suggestion.

No liability is assumed for the correct functioning of components from the links!

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!ATTENTION! Unfortunately, I made a labeling error on the board with Rev. 1.3! GND and 5V for the relay board are labeled incorrectly. Here 5V = GND and vice versa. As of Rev. 1.4, this error has already been resolved!

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I do not accept any liability for injuries and / or damage to people, animals or equipment caused by working with the soldering iron or improper handling of electricity!

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Boards on which soldering work has started cannot be exchanged!

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If you have no basic electronic knowledge or have never had a soldering iron in hand, please get help from friends, acquaintances or a qualified electrician!

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Subject to changes

No liability is accepted for improper use.

Boards that have been assembled (soldering, etc.) cannot be exchanged.

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Related links to "Pump control 1.5"

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??? Questions about the article?

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??? Arduino Nano Compatible Controller *

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??? A4988 stepper motor driver *

??? The relay board *

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??? pump

??? The firmware for the ColdEND (now also with display)

??? More products from END-CNC

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Available downloads:

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 ???Download description and assembly instructions Rev 1.3 and 1.4

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??? Download circuit diagram Rev. 1.3 and 1.4

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??? Download the board as a .Step file

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??? Download description and assembly instructions Rev 1.5

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