Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Ok, I'm officially stealing that idea! I really like it! Thanks for sharing and starting this thread.
Bill in OKC
On Friday, October 18, 2019, 07:34:01 AM EDT, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like looking into a dark cave.? So I finally bought some small LED lights intended for under the cabinet use and installed them.? They mount with double-sided tape, which I didn't trust on my wood enclosure top, so I printed some mounting plates, taped the lights to them, then mounted the plates with small screws.? The photos show before and after pictures of the enclosure and printer, plus a close-up of the LEDs.? No more need for a flashlight!    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
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Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Bruce,
I guess I forgot to mention that I am retired... my bad!
Very nice fix to the printer, and good looking print, from what I could see.? Congratulations!? That first print is a big accomplishment!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Hi, Lewis,
No, I don't.? But now I am going to have to consider it!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Hi, Les, Very nice!? I have done the same, but mine is not as elegant as yours.? I left it flat to provide multiple mounting locations for the QCTP.  -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Hello, All,
I always admired this topic on Hobby Machinist, as it gets members to share more of their shop activities.? So I thought I would start this thread here.? I've added a few posts of my own from the last few days to get the ball rolling.? I hope you find it interesting!
Well, today, I¡¯m trying to figure out folding a new feature into a large web application I'm responsible for :-) because I have to *work* today :-) but last weekend I got my 3D printer working
First plastic:
To get there I had to fabricate a dual rail system to support the heated bed on the Y axis, because the original design was not very good to start with, and my kit had mis-drilled holes in the bet support piece. Fortunately I had a few pieces of 20x20 around to use. The rest was some standard Al stock I could get at Ace¡?
BTW, 8-32 square nuts from Ace fit perfectly in these extrusions...
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Charlie - I'm in the process of building a 3d printer from scratch (starting to regret that decision as it's taking forever) and am planning to enclose it as well as I plan to be using ABS a lot. ?Do you have any exhaust ventilation running on your enclosure ? ?It seems to me it would be required - even at a very low cfm - in order to get the nasty fumes out of the basement.
Great light setup - I've made a note of that for future reference - thanks for posting!
Lewis
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 18, 2019, at 8:33 AM, CLevinski < clevinski@...> wrote: I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like looking into a dark cave.? So I finally bought some small LED lights intended for under the cabinet use and installed them.? They mount with double-sided tape, which I didn't trust on my wood enclosure top, so I printed some mounting plates, taped the lights to them, then mounted the plates with small screws.? The photos show before and after pictures of the enclosure and printer, plus a close-up of the LEDs.? No more need for a flashlight!
<20191009_144002.jpg>
<20191016_145445.jpg>
<20191016_150203.jpg>--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
I made a solid block to replace the compound to have more rigidity
On Friday, 18 October 2019, 12:37:52 BST, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
Hi, I also finished printing the box and cover for my RELS joystick control, and test assembled it.? I just need to wire it up now.   -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Hi, I also finished printing the box and cover for my RELS joystick control, and test assembled it.? I just need to wire it up now.   -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
Re: What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like looking into a dark cave.? So I finally bought some small LED lights intended for under the cabinet use and installed them.? They mount with double-sided tape, which I didn't trust on my wood enclosure top, so I printed some mounting plates, taped the lights to them, then mounted the plates with small screws.? The photos show before and after pictures of the enclosure and printer, plus a close-up of the LEDs.? No more need for a flashlight!    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
What did you do in your shop today?
#MISC
Hello, All,
I always admired this topic on Hobby Machinist, as it gets members to share more of their shop activities.? So I thought I would start this thread here.? I've added a few posts of my own from the last few days to get the ball rolling.? I hope you find it interesting!
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
Re: conning tower nut
#MODS
Hi, Jon, Sorry, I should have been more specific.? A conning tower nut is a nut that is threaded on to the cross-slide lead screw and actually moves the cross-slide.? As the lathe is originally delivered, the cross-slide nut that is used makes a poor connection to the cross-slide.? Many industrial lathes use a nut that has a high spigot (the entire nut looks a bit like a submarine conning tower, hence the name).? This spigot engages a matching opening in the cross-slide, ensuring a far more secure connection.? I have attached a few pictures I took during the implementation of mine which I hope will help make matters clear. The lowest picture below shows the original cross-slide nut on the left, and the conning tower nut on the right. The first picture below shows the conning tower nut on the cross-slide lead screw without the cross-slide.? Please note that my lead screw looks short because I have a cross-slide extension installed.? (Note: photo accidentally deleted on 11/23/2019.? See post of that date, which shows the missing photo.) The second picture below, (sorry, I haven't quite worked out yet how to put the photos in my desired order when I load them), shows the "conning tower" fully engaged in the cross-slide.? Please note that the conning tower in this photo is too high for this particular cross-slide.? It was necessary to reduce the height of this conning tower so the flat head screw shown near the conning tower could be properly installed and adjust the nut height, keeping the lead screw properly aligned throughout its travel. I hope this helps clarify matters...    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
Re: conning tower nut
#MODS
Charlie,
Is this the "CONNING TOWER"
nut?---Edited photo attempted to be attached-
Little Machine shop says this is a
locking lever
This is what I thought was a "CONNING
TOWER" nut, Am I missing something??
I thought ----Conning Tower on a
submarine.....
On 10/9/2019 8:02 AM, CLevinski wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John,
Photos of conning tower nut, per your request...
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
|
On Oct 9, 2019, at 4:33 AM, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
That is one of the reasons metal shapers are still popular among metalworking hobbyists. Keyways and splines are pretty easy to cut, including internal splines.
Interesting¡I never knew vertical shapers existed! -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
|
Has anybody else "thought" about "just" installing ball screws? You can get ?at great prices compared to what they were 5 or 10 years ago.
I have had converting to ball screws on the back burner for a couple of years, I even bought the ball screws.
Ralph
If you consider an extension block on the front of the compound. Suggest you cut in the dovetails that match the x slide.more rigid.and supports the gib when x slide is fully extended out. Needs s bit of fine milling to get it correct? I will try and dig out some photos. John
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019, 11:11 John Lindo via Groups.Io <bechetboat= [email protected] wrote: Yes both sides of the RH plummer block.I removed about 4 mm per side if i recall. IE 2 x the overall thrust bearing thicknesses. This then also takes up the b/lash as there is nothing the LH end of the screw.Just the plain abr of the screw in a long bore. I still used the R Bull back lash nut on the RH side, and clamped the coupling around that. I needed to bore out the coupling?from 12 mm dia to 14 mm dia?? for it to fit. 10 mm to the stepper spindle the other end of the coupling. Consider if the screw is straight elongating the 2 support blocks so you have some up and down movement. but also check the engagement?of the feed screw half nuts. I am sure you have all this under your bet.
John
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 10:55, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi looks like a good mod looking forward to your pics. I noticed that my Z axis was throwing a bit and I modified the z axis by putting needle bearings in the bearing blocks . The lathe already had? double ball race? thrust washers as standard on the tailstock end. However, I noticed that the leadscrew? is still out about 0.3 mm on the headstock end and it seams the lead screw is either bent or the end shaft is not concentric with the lead screw so I am going to take the leadscrew off and test for straightness . Regards Les
On Wednesday, 9 October 2019, 07:18:57 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les
I will send info reference the" conning tower" feed nut this weekend. Basically a square nut about 20 mm long can be cast iron or phosphor bronze. this has a spud (spigot) sticking up that fits into a hole from the underside of the top x feed slide. The fit between spud and hole is about .02 mm dia clearance. There is a chamfered allen screw that keeps the nut attached the the top cross slide. Either side of the hols for the spigot are holes drilled and tapped for pointed grubs,? these locate directly into dibbits in the top of the nut face. We can call these jacking screws for adjusting the other words the nut is tipped thus setting backlash to almost zero. The nut cannot shift as basically retained by the c/s screw and will not shift back and forth as? the pointed grubs prevent this. This is not a new principle, most high end lathes adopt a similar principle, just that i adopted this for the mini lathe.The original OE as supplied backlash nut, well say no more. but totally useless.
My idea has been adopted by 2 other forum members, possibly let them explain more for clarification.
Again, I try and will send info through the week end, but all info available through the Home Shop machinist I will try and find the date of publication. Also available I think, in the 7 x forum files. again I cannot remember when, possibly 3 -4 years ago ??? under an article called "swiss cheese" with a zillion more modifications how dare they LOL.
Not sure if you extended the cross slide travel with a block, by doing this I increased the travel of the cross slide operator side by 24 mm, which gives and additional 48 mm of dia that can be turned. You can also once the compound slide is removed (gr!!!!!!!!!) fit on the new riser block and drill and tap holes in any position for the tool post stud, this will increase the diameters to be cut vastly without losing ridigity.?
Currently I have not fitted thrust bearings, i am OK at this moment, but a back burner job. I have the needle inner and the outer washers, With b/l under control, the end of the feed screw is held by the oldham coupling (flexible drive) connected to the stepper motor, and the front of the screw with the shoulder against my new extension block, there is no movement, but a thrust washer set up is icing on the cake.? I need to revisit this, I guess i am lazy LOL. GOWIL?
I also cut a new cross slide screw using 10 mm dia silver steel (drill rod) and the manual threading function of the ELS, it?s MAGIC. All food for thought, you have certainly picked up the gauntlet and GOWIL. Very well done. I just love to read of positive actions by the forum members.?
GOWIL means Get on with it Lewis, form the famous books of the police Inspector Morse. He had a sergeant who did all the footwork, solving the crimes and Morse would sit in a pub/bar drinking saying GOWIL can?t you see I am busy. Have a good productive day
Cheers
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 00:42, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: John? No I don't know anything about the "conning tower cross feed" would be interested in that. I should get my M10? 1p? LH taps shortly. Like a lot of these mini lathes the cross slide back lash adjustment leaves a lot to be desired even though my machine is a Chester db7 similar to Warco 180 is supposed to be an? uprated design. The cross feed nut is cast iron and only about 15 mm long with some slop. I have seen on youtube a mod on the same lathe as mine that uses ball race thrust bearings? plus an ingenious nut made out of Delrin clamped within a steel square housing of about 30mm long? and about 21mm square don't know about the longevity of the Delrin but I suppose you could make a few of them and change if required.? I am going to have a go at that. Meanwhile I would like to see some pics of your modification and thanks for your interest
On Tuesday, 8 October 2019, 17:58:18 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
-- John
-- John
--
John
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Thanks John, real close, thinking about ordering 2, but maybe just 1 for now then I could get the resin 3D 3D printer.
Bangood has 1 for <$30.00
Still not clear on the workflow, I assume one starts in a 3D CAD producing a drawing that is then sliced to produce Gcode? Possible Fusion 360 will do everything. Put the Fusion 360 output on a USB drive in put the USB into the DDCSV3.1 and punch Run. Home first then punch Run.
Ralph
Ralph.
All new versions of firmware applicable to V3 are also updating my V2.
Ref CNC lathe, the stepper drivers to the ELS are also wired into the CNC? controller with separate?cables.? I just unplug the ELS cable, plug in the other cable to the CNC box.
But keeping the stepper driver "dip switch" settings common for both.
The CNC has it?s own parameter settings for about 120 options. The ELS settings are set in the Arduino firmware. Previously before I had the 2nd CNC controller dedicated to the lathe, I inserted a USB stick into the controller, with a choice of 4 files containing Mill metric set ,mill Imp set, lathe metric set, lathe imperial set. by selecting which you needed it changed the internal settings?to suit, then used the same cables that fed the mill X and Z axis steppers and plugged these into the?lathe?stepper. All fittings on the steppers use? 4 pin Q/R plugs.
Hope this helps.
Thanks again John, wow lots and lots of choices.?
What does the work flow look like?
Could I still just do automated movement of X Y & Z without full CNC.
I see there is a Version 3.1.
How are you using the DDCSV2.1 on your lathe? Are you using it in conjunction with #RELS?
Ralph
Ali Express to start with.
John?
John, where/how does one purchase?
DDCSV2.1, I can see their website but there is no Store.
I suppose I could call them their number is listed.
Ralph
N    ew month, new topics.
This maybe of interest to the CNC members.
I have 2 of these controllers, DDCSV2.1 installing 1 on my mill and the other on the lathe.(new).
Naturally steppers and drivers are needed for the machines.
For the price and availability I strongly recommend these? CNC controllers.
Easy to install , 4 axis , optional MPG ( manual pulse generator) .Also able to edit files etc with a remote wifi standard keyboard.
But paramount in my opinion is the technical support coming out of China and is exceptional.
There chief engineer is Yt Liu, and yes he is an ex rocket scientist.
2 usual ways to contact the company engineers with problems and questions,either Facebook and also the have there own forum site (currently being revamped).
I ask a question today, get a reply within 24 hours.If you need facebook invites, just contact me.
I have been using the mill CNC 3 axis for several months,with all the common CNC commands you would expect from Fanuc/Haas/fadal etc,
and only this week I used the A axis (indexing) cutting a few gears.on what was my Step indexer via a Arduino system.
but now it?s CNC and all hands off.
i have no financial interest or gains form DDCNC just letting you know what is out there for hobbyists.
Still sorting out the post processor for the lathe off my Mastercam to talk to the lathe,I am almost there.I will keep the group informed.
See attached photos.
Hope of interest.
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
John
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: conning tower nut
#MODS
John, Photos of conning tower nut, per your request...    -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA
|
That is one of the reasons metal shapers are still popular among metalworking hobbyists. Keyways and splines are pretty easy to cut, including internal splines.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JvAl2tgc10M
HTH!
Bill in OKC
On Tuesday, October 8, 2019, 05:14:58 PM CDT, Fast Eddie <epinnell@...> wrote:
On Tue, Oct 8, 2019 at 11:34 AM, John Lindo wrote:
Those with an interest in a simple indexer system for the lathe without timing gears or attachments to the end of the spindle. Gr!!!!!!!!! let me know.
You will need a mill, rotary table that tilts or that can accommodate 90 degree angle and boring head.
it?s a 2 hour job.
Just so happens that I bought a 6" Vertex H/V (horizontal/vertical) rotary table a couple of months ago, and I have a Chinese boring head that came with the micro-mill. I'm knee deep in building the MPCNC at the moment but things are cooling down in the garage so I'm looking for a good project to justify my new acquisition!
I must mention I have no keyway broaches and a press to push the tools through. IMHO with the RELS and some nifty boring bars to hold the
square HSS, I am OK.
I will also discuss how to make a boring bar to hold a square bit, if interested.It?s as simple fast design, 1/2 hour job.
No filing LOL involved.
Yes, having had access to broaches during my working career, I'm not looking forward to cutting keyways on the lathe. Anything you can share to make my life easier will be greatly appreciated!
|
If you consider an extension block on the front of the compound. Suggest you cut in the dovetails that match the x slide.more rigid.and supports the gib when x slide is fully extended out. Needs s bit of fine milling to get it correct? I will try and dig out some photos. John
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019, 11:11 John Lindo via Groups.Io <bechetboat= [email protected] wrote: Yes both sides of the RH plummer block.I removed about 4 mm per side if i recall. IE 2 x the overall thrust bearing thicknesses. This then also takes up the b/lash as there is nothing the LH end of the screw.Just the plain abr of the screw in a long bore. I still used the R Bull back lash nut on the RH side, and clamped the coupling around that. I needed to bore out the coupling?from 12 mm dia to 14 mm dia?? for it to fit. 10 mm to the stepper spindle the other end of the coupling. Consider if the screw is straight elongating the 2 support blocks so you have some up and down movement. but also check the engagement?of the feed screw half nuts. I am sure you have all this under your bet.
John
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 10:55, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi looks like a good mod looking forward to your pics. I noticed that my Z axis was throwing a bit and I modified the z axis by putting needle bearings in the bearing blocks . The lathe already had? double ball race? thrust washers as standard on the tailstock end. However, I noticed that the leadscrew? is still out about 0.3 mm on the headstock end and it seams the lead screw is either bent or the end shaft is not concentric with the lead screw so I am going to take the leadscrew off and test for straightness . Regards Les
On Wednesday, 9 October 2019, 07:18:57 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les
I will send info reference the" conning tower" feed nut this weekend. Basically a square nut about 20 mm long can be cast iron or phosphor bronze. this has a spud (spigot) sticking up that fits into a hole from the underside of the top x feed slide. The fit between spud and hole is about .02 mm dia clearance. There is a chamfered allen screw that keeps the nut attached the the top cross slide. Either side of the hols for the spigot are holes drilled and tapped for pointed grubs,? these locate directly into dibbits in the top of the nut face. We can call these jacking screws for adjusting the other words the nut is tipped thus setting backlash to almost zero. The nut cannot shift as basically retained by the c/s screw and will not shift back and forth as? the pointed grubs prevent this. This is not a new principle, most high end lathes adopt a similar principle, just that i adopted this for the mini lathe.The original OE as supplied backlash nut, well say no more. but totally useless.
My idea has been adopted by 2 other forum members, possibly let them explain more for clarification.
Again, I try and will send info through the week end, but all info available through the Home Shop machinist I will try and find the date of publication. Also available I think, in the 7 x forum files. again I cannot remember when, possibly 3 -4 years ago ??? under an article called "swiss cheese" with a zillion more modifications how dare they LOL.
Not sure if you extended the cross slide travel with a block, by doing this I increased the travel of the cross slide operator side by 24 mm, which gives and additional 48 mm of dia that can be turned. You can also once the compound slide is removed (gr!!!!!!!!!) fit on the new riser block and drill and tap holes in any position for the tool post stud, this will increase the diameters to be cut vastly without losing ridigity.?
Currently I have not fitted thrust bearings, i am OK at this moment, but a back burner job. I have the needle inner and the outer washers, With b/l under control, the end of the feed screw is held by the oldham coupling (flexible drive) connected to the stepper motor, and the front of the screw with the shoulder against my new extension block, there is no movement, but a thrust washer set up is icing on the cake.? I need to revisit this, I guess i am lazy LOL. GOWIL?
I also cut a new cross slide screw using 10 mm dia silver steel (drill rod) and the manual threading function of the ELS, it?s MAGIC. All food for thought, you have certainly picked up the gauntlet and GOWIL. Very well done. I just love to read of positive actions by the forum members.?
GOWIL means Get on with it Lewis, form the famous books of the police Inspector Morse. He had a sergeant who did all the footwork, solving the crimes and Morse would sit in a pub/bar drinking saying GOWIL can?t you see I am busy. Have a good productive day
Cheers
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 00:42, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: John? No I don't know anything about the "conning tower cross feed" would be interested in that. I should get my M10? 1p? LH taps shortly. Like a lot of these mini lathes the cross slide back lash adjustment leaves a lot to be desired even though my machine is a Chester db7 similar to Warco 180 is supposed to be an? uprated design. The cross feed nut is cast iron and only about 15 mm long with some slop. I have seen on youtube a mod on the same lathe as mine that uses ball race thrust bearings? plus an ingenious nut made out of Delrin clamped within a steel square housing of about 30mm long? and about 21mm square don't know about the longevity of the Delrin but I suppose you could make a few of them and change if required.? I am going to have a go at that. Meanwhile I would like to see some pics of your modification and thanks for your interest
On Tuesday, 8 October 2019, 17:58:18 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
-- John
-- John
--
John
--
John
|
Yes both sides of the RH plummer block.I removed about 4 mm per side if i recall. IE 2 x the overall thrust bearing thicknesses. This then also takes up the b/lash as there is nothing the LH end of the screw.Just the plain abr of the screw in a long bore. I still used the R Bull back lash nut on the RH side, and clamped the coupling around that. I needed to bore out the coupling?from 12 mm dia to 14 mm dia?? for it to fit. 10 mm to the stepper spindle the other end of the coupling. Consider if the screw is straight elongating the 2 support blocks so you have some up and down movement. but also check the engagement?of the feed screw half nuts. I am sure you have all this under your bet.
John
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 10:55, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi looks like a good mod looking forward to your pics. I noticed that my Z axis was throwing a bit and I modified the z axis by putting needle bearings in the bearing blocks . The lathe already had? double ball race? thrust washers as standard on the tailstock end. However, I noticed that the leadscrew? is still out about 0.3 mm on the headstock end and it seams the lead screw is either bent or the end shaft is not concentric with the lead screw so I am going to take the leadscrew off and test for straightness . Regards Les
On Wednesday, 9 October 2019, 07:18:57 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les
I will send info reference the" conning tower" feed nut this weekend. Basically a square nut about 20 mm long can be cast iron or phosphor bronze. this has a spud (spigot) sticking up that fits into a hole from the underside of the top x feed slide. The fit between spud and hole is about .02 mm dia clearance. There is a chamfered allen screw that keeps the nut attached the the top cross slide. Either side of the hols for the spigot are holes drilled and tapped for pointed grubs,? these locate directly into dibbits in the top of the nut face. We can call these jacking screws for adjusting the other words the nut is tipped thus setting backlash to almost zero. The nut cannot shift as basically retained by the c/s screw and will not shift back and forth as? the pointed grubs prevent this. This is not a new principle, most high end lathes adopt a similar principle, just that i adopted this for the mini lathe.The original OE as supplied backlash nut, well say no more. but totally useless.
My idea has been adopted by 2 other forum members, possibly let them explain more for clarification.
Again, I try and will send info through the week end, but all info available through the Home Shop machinist I will try and find the date of publication. Also available I think, in the 7 x forum files. again I cannot remember when, possibly 3 -4 years ago ??? under an article called "swiss cheese" with a zillion more modifications how dare they LOL.
Not sure if you extended the cross slide travel with a block, by doing this I increased the travel of the cross slide operator side by 24 mm, which gives and additional 48 mm of dia that can be turned. You can also once the compound slide is removed (gr!!!!!!!!!) fit on the new riser block and drill and tap holes in any position for the tool post stud, this will increase the diameters to be cut vastly without losing ridigity.?
Currently I have not fitted thrust bearings, i am OK at this moment, but a back burner job. I have the needle inner and the outer washers, With b/l under control, the end of the feed screw is held by the oldham coupling (flexible drive) connected to the stepper motor, and the front of the screw with the shoulder against my new extension block, there is no movement, but a thrust washer set up is icing on the cake.? I need to revisit this, I guess i am lazy LOL. GOWIL?
I also cut a new cross slide screw using 10 mm dia silver steel (drill rod) and the manual threading function of the ELS, it?s MAGIC. All food for thought, you have certainly picked up the gauntlet and GOWIL. Very well done. I just love to read of positive actions by the forum members.?
GOWIL means Get on with it Lewis, form the famous books of the police Inspector Morse. He had a sergeant who did all the footwork, solving the crimes and Morse would sit in a pub/bar drinking saying GOWIL can?t you see I am busy. Have a good productive day
Cheers
On Wed, 9 Oct 2019 at 00:42, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: John? No I don't know anything about the "conning tower cross feed" would be interested in that. I should get my M10? 1p? LH taps shortly. Like a lot of these mini lathes the cross slide back lash adjustment leaves a lot to be desired even though my machine is a Chester db7 similar to Warco 180 is supposed to be an? uprated design. The cross feed nut is cast iron and only about 15 mm long with some slop. I have seen on youtube a mod on the same lathe as mine that uses ball race thrust bearings? plus an ingenious nut made out of Delrin clamped within a steel square housing of about 30mm long? and about 21mm square don't know about the longevity of the Delrin but I suppose you could make a few of them and change if required.? I am going to have a go at that. Meanwhile I would like to see some pics of your modification and thanks for your interest
On Tuesday, 8 October 2019, 17:58:18 BST, John Lindo < bechetboat@...> wrote:
Les.? Do you know about the conning tower cross feed type nut I developed for the 7 x lathes. So simple, but very effective for backlash control. Let me know, I can send photos etc. I have 2 x 10 x 1.0 mm LH taps, Richard could of brought one back with him. cheers John
On Tue, 8 Oct 2019 at 11:03, les higgins via Groups.Io <leshiggins= [email protected]> wrote: Hi John? my RELS is? finished but I am modifying the x cross slide with ball thrust bearings. I have made a new cross slide lead screw from stainless steel? using a travelling steady and a modified nut which I am waiting for a left hand 10 M 1.0 pitch tap? and the bearings from China. The screw cutting was made easier with the stops which I am really pleased? with
-- John
-- John
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John
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#MISC chuck indexer
#MISC
As we discussed chuck indexing.see photos.
Important to avoid the index holes not running into the fixing studs and the scroll retaining holes. But doable.
Also photos of the clamp to the carriage bed, R Edwards put me onto this.So simple, I like simple.
Just clamps onto the bed vee with a swivel pinch pin.?
Half turn of the lever locks or unlocks. 5 secs and it?s on or off.also serves as my lathe carriage stop.
Screw is a 10 mm x 1 mm, one turn equals 1 mm travel,?
I hope of interest.
Thanks
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John
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Bill in OKC too
John Lindo
