FW: [SouthBendLathe] DIY power feed for mill ?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Walker via groups.io
Sent: November 4, 2024 7:40 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] DIY power feed for mill ? ? I found this video that shows a power feed using a wiper motor. ?It allows for a quick disconnect so the hand wheels can be used.
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Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
I’m now running Bergerda AX Servo’s on all axis with the exception of the 4th Axis Harmonic drive which has a 3 phase motor but a different Servo Driver.
? Bergerda does make a lot of motors for the sewing industry.? One time when I was having some tuning issues their engineers made a quick video using a cell phone and sent that to me to help me out.? Great support! ? John ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 3, 2024 10:32 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? ??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those Consew sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about those units . ??? thanks ??? animal On 11/3/24 1:21 AM, John Dammeyer wrote: Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
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Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
??? When ya say servo , are ya talking like one of those Consew
sewing machine servo motors ? I had forgotten all about those
units .
??? thanks
??? animal
On 11/3/24 1:21 AM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
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Here’s
a photo of the original parts.?
Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end
play.? The shaft sat
in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it
was designed to be turned slowly by hand.
?
At
the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear
and the cast iron.? I
replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a
bushing.
?
At
the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and
spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to
get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast.
?
First
trial was with a 650 oz-in
stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10
IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot
turn fast.? Changing
to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me
25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed
corrosion on the terminal connector and failed.
?
From
there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to
3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM.
?
Eventually
I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash
but for now it’s been pretty good.
John
?
?
?
Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably
convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back &
thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that
work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors
, but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my
next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee
mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the
table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the
Stepper? & DC motor install .
thanks
animal
On 11/2/24
11:19 PM, mike allen wrote:
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was
told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC
tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95
% plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind
of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24
10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
?
There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
?
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
?
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
?
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
?
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
?
thanks
?
animal
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
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Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
Here’s what a friend did. ? I made it out of a motor drive setup that I salvaged from a retired mobility cart I had on the pile. I used the analog speed controller salvaged from it as well. No computer control. ? 
? ?
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Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
Here’s a photo of the bearing holder I turned on the lathe to replace the bushing at the bevel gear end. ? And at the crank end. ? Finally I started with plastic pulleys. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer
Sent: November 3, 2024 8:22 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? I’ll take it one step further if you decide you want to look at a more complex solution. First a drawing of the existing knee acme screw which has a bevel gear at the top turned by the horizontal shaft. ? What others have done and what I plan to do is replace that with a ball screw and turn the screw directly.? Except unlike others I will not turn the screw.? I’ll turn the ball nut which pushes the screw up or down. ? This will require a new post and the motor will be mounted on the post in a vertical orientation and will require a brake when the system is powered down as then the AC servo will spin freely and be back driven by the ball screw.? There will still be a 4:1 reduction since 150 IPM is still scary fast enough. John ? ? ? Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
|
Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
I’ll take it one step further if you decide you want to look at a more complex solution. First a drawing of the existing knee acme screw which has a bevel gear at the top turned by the horizontal shaft. ? What others have done and what I plan to do is replace that with a ball screw and turn the screw directly.? Except unlike others I will not turn the screw.? I’ll turn the ball nut which pushes the screw up or down. ? This will require a new post and the motor will be mounted on the post in a vertical orientation and will require a brake when the system is powered down as then the AC servo will spin freely and be back driven by the ball screw.? There will still be a 4:1 reduction since 150 IPM is still scary fast enough. John ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer
Sent: November 3, 2024 1:22 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ? ? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
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Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
I put a stepper motor and control on a Sheldon Horizontal Mill I restored last year.? I use it on the crossfeed and can control the feed rate for milling.? If you are just wanting to raise and lower the knee so you don't have to crank then a DC motor or an AC gearhead motor would be easier.? Here is a link to the build thread I did on the Hobby Machinist forum if you are interested.??
?
?
?
?
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Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
Here’s a photo of the original parts.? Thrust bearing at the bevel gear end set the end play.? The shaft sat in the cast iron and there was dramatic end play but then it was designed to be turned slowly by hand. ? At the gear end the thrust bearings pressed against the gear and the cast iron.? I replaced the cast iron side with an bearing instead of a bushing. ? At the crank end I replaced the bushing with bearings and spacers and took out the end play to the bevel gear.? Now I can spin this to get 150 IPM on the knee which is scary fast. ? First trial was with a 650 oz-in stepper motor with 4:1 reduction.? If I was lucky I got 10 IPM before the motor locked up.? Stepper motors cannot turn fast.? Changing to a 1200 oz-in motor gave me 25 IPM and that worked until the GECKO controller developed corrosion on the terminal connector and failed. ? From there I changed out the motor to a 750W AC Servo good to 3000 RPM and now have 150 IPM. ? Eventually I’ll drive the vertical screw directly to reduce backlash but for now it’s been pretty good. John ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 11:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill? Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean, lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor install . thanks animal On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote: ??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff . 
thanks ?animal On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer wrote: Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move?? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option. ? There are all sorts of ways of doing this.? For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units.? I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance. ? A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations. ? Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion.? Just do the Z axis to start.? Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control. ? -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill ? ? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill . ? thanks ? animal ? ? ? ?
? ? ? ?
|
Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
Hit send too fast . The knee is the one that I will probably
convert first . I had my chest cracked 7 years back & thinks
like raising/lowering the knee reminds me that that work\was done
to me . I have one of those electric seat motors , but i don't
think it has enough power for this . I think my next plan is to
remove the table & go down to the knee mechanism & clean,
lube & adjust my way back up to the table .? I would be
interested to see how ya / yer bud did the Stepper? & DC motor
install .
thanks
animal
On 11/2/24 11:19 PM, mike allen wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it
was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got
it from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no
steel & some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
There are all sorts of ways of doing this. For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units. I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion. Just do the Z axis to start. Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
??? Sorry Forgot to mention , ye it's a knee mill I was told it
was purchased new in the 80's . It Came from KBC tool's . I got it
from the original owner whose work was 95 % plastic , no steel
& some aluminum . He made some kind of optics stuff .
thanks
?animal
On 11/2/24 10:48 PM, John Dammeyer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
There are all sorts of ways of doing this. For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units. I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion. Just do the Z axis to start. Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Re: Diy Powerfeed for mill
Does your mill have a knee or does the head assembly move? That's easier than moving the quill and leaves the quill as a manual option.
There are all sorts of ways of doing this. For the longest time I had a stepper motor on the knee shaft that I ran from one of my ELS units. I could set zero where I was milling and then if I wanted to do a 0.010" cut just move the knee by that distance.
A friend of mine with the same type of mill just added a DC motor with a variable power supply and a couple of toothed belts and uses it to avoid major tedious cranking operations.
Or, start thinking about CNC now and start the conversion. Just do the Z axis to start. Whatever controller you use add a pendant with an MPG and now you are on the way with adequate control.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: November 2, 2024 10:27 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Diy Powerfeed for mill
? Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Finally got my mill in my machine room & under power . Wondering if
anyone here has come up with a DIY powerfeed that could be used on a mill .
thanks
animal
|
Hi Ralph, I haven’t written any quadrature code yet other than an encoder as an MPG and it was 16 lines per rev. ?My ELS used a 1PPR sensor and calculated the RPM from the time between pulses.? This included debouncing which helps get rid of electrical interference. ? Here’s the software version for the MPG.?? Happens inside the 20kHz interrupt routine for the manual MPG counting pulses.? Each pulse becomes a motion command so if it’s set for 0.001” then each tick moves the carriage 0.001”.? It can also be set to day 0.020” per tick for example.? The distance is based on the stepper motor steps per lead screw rev and lead screw pitch.?? ? ??? /*
??????? Check Quadrature encoder knob.0
??? */
??? NewEnc = ENCODER_PORT & ENCODER_MASK;
??? EncoderCounter = 0;
??? if (NewEnc ^ OldEnc) { // Encoder value changed???
??????? switch(NewEnc) {
??????? case ENCODER_POS1 :?????????????? // 01
??????????? if (OldEnc == ENCODER_POS0)?? // 00
??????????????? EncoderCounter--;
??????????? else
????????????????EncoderCounter++;
??????????? break;
??????? case ENCODER_POS3 :?????????????? // 11
??????????? if (OldEnc == ENCODER_POS1)?? // 01
??????????????? EncoderCounter--;
??????????? else
????????????????EncoderCounter++;
??????????? break;
??????? case ENCODER_POS2 :?????????????? // 10
??????????? if (OldEnc == ENCODER_POS3)?? // 11
??????????????? EncoderCounter--;
??????????? else
????????????????EncoderCounter++;
???????????break;??????????????????????? // 00
??????? case ENCODER_POS0 :?????????????? // 10
??????????? if (OldEnc == ENCODER_POS2)
??????????????? EncoderCounter--;
??????????? else
????????????????EncoderCounter++;
??????????? break;
??????? };
??????? OldEnc = NewEnc;
??????? // Allow MPG movement only when machine is in READY state.
??????? // We still allow the Encoder tracking because otherwise when we leave
????????// ready state, if the encoder was moved, it would generate a step.
??????? // Also, we now have the opportunity to use the encoder knob when the machine
????????// is in the IDLE state to use the encoder counts to scroll through menus etc.
??????? if (SystemState == MACHINE_READY)
????????????ZEncoderCounter += EncoderCounter;
??? }; // end if encoder value changed.
What would change with a dedicated counter like inside a PIC32 or some other version is on each 50uS tick the counter register is read and the value added to a running total.? And based on the 50uS tick the velocity is now calculated way more often and adjustments to tracking speed could be made. ? The nice thing about the hardware counters is the ability handle very high resolution encoders.? So a 2500 line encoder like on my AC Servos is 10,000 pulses per second in quadrature mode.? Now imagine the spindle is turning 6,000 RPM which is 100 revs per second.? ?That’s 10ms for one revolution.? With 10,000 pulses per rev every 10ms we get 1 million pulses per second (assuming I’ve done the math right).? ? One doesn’t really that many lines for spindle.? The only goal, which LinuxCNC does well with a 60 slot encoder on my mill, is to be able to thread.? Or in the case of my mill it power taps 4-40 screw holes without problems.? ? ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: September 1, 2024 5:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Spindle Encoders? John, have you shared the code to read the encoder? ? Did some research.? Seems it’s 600 PPR and the encoder suggested doesn’t produce the Z index pulse which makes sense for just using encoder pulses to generate stepper motor pulses. ? I found this one which can come in NPN, PNP and various supply voltages along with encoder resolutions and best of all the Index pulse. ?
? ? ? The Arduino based electronic gearing require a multi-line encoder on the spindle in order to apply an A/B fraction to create stepping pulses that track the encoder.? IIRC it has to be an 800 line encoder. ? What encoders are people using? ? Thanks John D.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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John, have you shared the code to read the encoder?
Ralph
Did some research.? Seems it’s 600 PPR and the encoder suggested doesn’t produce the Z index pulse which makes sense for just using encoder pulses to generate stepper motor pulses. ? I found this one which can come in NPN, PNP and various supply voltages along with encoder resolutions and best of all the Index pulse. ?
? ? ? The Arduino based electronic gearing require a multi-line encoder on the spindle in order to apply an A/B fraction to create stepping pulses that track the encoder.? IIRC it has to be an 800 line encoder. ? What encoders are people using? ? Thanks John D.
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Did some research.? Seems it’s 600 PPR and the encoder suggested doesn’t produce the Z index pulse which makes sense for just using encoder pulses to generate stepper motor pulses. ? I found this one which can come in NPN, PNP and various supply voltages along with encoder resolutions and best of all the Index pulse. ?
? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Dammeyer
Sent: August 25, 2024 10:50 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] Spindle Encoders? The Arduino based electronic gearing require a multi-line encoder on the spindle in order to apply an A/B fraction to create stepping pulses that track the encoder.? IIRC it has to be an 800 line encoder. ? What encoders are people using? ? Thanks John D.
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The Arduino based electronic gearing require a multi-line encoder on the spindle in order to apply an A/B fraction to create stepping pulses that track the encoder.? IIRC it has to be an 800 line encoder. ? What encoders are people using? ? Thanks John D.
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Re: ELS 1mm thread, should I use capture nuts both sides of the XY/XZ assembly
HI Dom.
The DI photos were sent to open up conversations from you and forum members of how to level the mill bed to the?
X and Y axis and maintain a parallel level face of the end mill / router bit to the workpiece.
Your original photos were not? clear on how the bed plays an integral part of the machine.
Is the bed static and the spindle moves along the X and Y rods.?
Does the Z axis have double screws, how will you "sync" the 2 stepper motors without a reference indicator?
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I have an interest on your designs as I am planning to make a similar "CNC router myself,
and possibly a "core " type with 4 x corner Z axis stepper motors.?
So some form of DI will be needed to level the bed and check the "sync" of the 4 x motors.
I am considering using a GT 2560 board and Marlin as the operating system.
The early " cartesian" type 3D printers have the nozzle move along in X direction along a rail, the Y direction?
is the movement of the table. The use of trapping a bit of paper under the nozzle and adjusting 4 corner screws
to get the bed level and that just did not suit me.
Basically I replaced the heater bed support 4 x corner spring loaded screw/wing nuts and then I accurately machined 4? x delrin 20 mm dia bushing blocks
and slipped these between the bed and heater plate, and with the use of shim under these posts with the DI I managed to dial in the?
bed parallel within 0.07 mm. over 200 mm x 200 mm in? X and Y directions.? Good enough.
If the bed level did drift after a long print, normally due to the Z axis screws then it was a simple case of adjusting the 2 x Z axis stepper motors while the machine was turned off. again using the DI.?
Naturally all this above verbiage has become redundant with new 3D printing technology of Auto levelling.
More photos during your mill build would be appreciated by me and I am sure other forum members.
?Thanks
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John
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Re: ELS 1mm thread, should I use capture nuts both sides of the XY/XZ assembly
This dial discussion has nothing to do with what I was asking. Have I missed something? Dom
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Re: ELS 1mm thread, should I use capture nuts both sides of the XY/XZ assembly
The flange will be screwed to the moving gantry using M3 or similar bolts. Dom
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Hi Dom?
Thanks for the info ref Stepper motor pulse.
I live and learn.
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I have just finished work on a replacement shoe for a plastic sheet welding machine.
Basically it?s an very large clothes iron that when the heated shoe runs along the 2 edge pieces to be joined it melts the plastic, then a special?
roller compresses the weld. Almost like my wife steaming out the wrinkles of my shirts on her ironing board.?
Typical use of the machine is the construction of pool covers or the manufacture of plastic curtains found on some of our commercial delivery trucks.
I basically measured the old shoe and body, beaten up and drafted using my? old Mastercam ver 8 dated 2002. 32 bit Win 7
I was using this same version when working for a living in those early days and after many trials and errors by using the same CD Rom disc, it? now runs on my Win 10
so basically the 64 bit laptop runs the 32 bit programme. Problem being, during the load of the 32 bit programme onto the Win 10, I really can?t remember how I did it.?
Lesson learnt, I should of taken notes. Something about running in compatibility mode. Any hep from forum members greatly appreciated as soon I need to?
upgrade to Win 11. and just hoping the upgrade will automatically deal with running 32 bit programmes on 64 bit systems.?
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Mastercam being a CAD/CAM programme, I can CAD draft and convert the shape to mill/lathe(wire cut machining ops and produce .nc or g codes without having to leave one programme to use another CAM programme.
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Enclosed are a couple of screenshots for yours and other forum members interest.
The body contains a heating rod up to 400 C , the shoe or iron plate curves were profiled using Mastercam and as I already converted Weiss bench mill to
4 axis, not a problem to make. Once the 2 parts were machined I then silver soldered together. The material I used was phosphor bronze.
Hope of interest.
Cheers for now.
All have a good week.
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John
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John Lindo
