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#3D Blower duct
#3D
A few photos of my blower duct.
It clips on or push fit onto the square end of the extruder stepper motor. The air is forced through the ducting legs, also directly down through the holes. I now a revised version and have 2 x fans connected, each fan is remotely controlled for variable speed of flow by external 12 V power supplies?and not reliant on ta singular voltage of the main control board. When printing ABS, the blower can stay on without the motors running or the whole unit just clips off. The white clip just helps my fingers grip the extruder filament lever, so no extraneous forces pushing down on the X axis rails. when opening up the gap of extruder gear and roller to pass the filament through. The bed is fixed (no silly 4 corner adjusters) and Z depth controlled by a Honeywell micro switch. The heater pad and glass are fixed to the support plate corners heights by 4 x accurately machined "standoffs". As an idiot check, i built a DTI that clips onto the X axis top rail.This allows me to check level on all areas of the glass. note the Z axis anti backslash nuts and extra support brackets. All this reasoning being, repeatability and no need to go through the leveling traumas every-time i want to print something. Hope of interest. -- John |
Re: Constant Surface Speed Application for 300 mm lathe
#CSS
In my experience with the blu tooth TouchDRO when used on my mill, they give me an accurate coordinate display but manual?milling.(hand cranking).only. Provided you have calibrated first yury?s display. Not difficult as there is a settings in Yury?s "app" to do this.?? I just use the normal Al Basset?s box and an Android Samsung tablet, and I must say this kit works OK. But under my mill rapid power feed the coordinates can lose accuracy, I now this as making comparisons with my 4 axis CNC controller? displays and these are accurate as they are not relying?on Igaging?scales, but pulses off the stepper motor drivers. Not being an electronic wizard, I think the Blue tooth box possibly needs time to play catch up to the rapid movements and also I don?t think it?s an Igaging scale issue. I am suspecting this could be the case with attaching this type of display to a CSS ,if the Bluetooth was somehow connected to display lathe spindle RPM. but I do not know. I don?t see me in the future going down this route. The standard optical RPM display built into the lathe control box works OK.and I also? have a seperate digital RPM display connected to the Arduino on the ELS system which reads the encoder movements. Now this is really accurate and gives on time (no delay) RPM counts. John On Sat, 14 Sep 2019 at 17:37, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
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John |
Re: Constant Surface Speed Application for 300 mm lathe
#CSS
Barry re: DRO positioning. If you contact Yuri at ?he can probable show you how? to understand the DRO readings to make them usable. There is also a forum with lots of DRO discussions. Ralph On Fri, Sep 13, 2019 at 10:19 PM CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote:
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer |
Re: Constant Surface Speed Application for 300 mm lathe
#CSS
Hi, Barry,
?
OK, I will post our conversation.? I think we can get valuable input from others.
?
Re an encoder on the cross-slide, a small microcomputer, such as an Arduino, can be used to count the pulses from an incremental encoder and provide position information without a lot of gearing.? It would also be needed to provide speed output information to the speed control system.
?
But you are right, your DRO is already calculating positioning information.? That would be quite elegant if we could tap into that.? You would still need some way to process and react to the information, though.
--?
Regards,Charlie New Jersey, USA |
Constant Surface Speed Application for 300 mm lathe
#CSS
Note: I have exchanged some emails back and forth with Barry regarding CSS for his larger lathe, and we have agreed that we could get some much broader ideas by moving our discussion here.? So the following represents several recent email exchanges.? Be sure to click "Show Quoted Text" near the bottom to see the entire exchange.? Charlie
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Charles,
? Yes by all means post what you think is required to kick this can down the street. I¡¯m sure there are other machinists out there who would love to have this on there lathe ,me I can¡¯t wait.? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ??
? Previously when I was researching CSS I had looked at installing a rotary encoder on? cross slide screw with a direct relationship to one full turn, don¡¯t recall how it was all tied into controlling the speed? though and how the start point was arrived at.? I have had a look at Mach4 CSS, but that requires a computer interface which I would like to stay away from if possible.
? Charles? once again thank you for picking this up and helping? me head in the right direction I look forward to reading your notes you have provided as well as any future conversations on CSS and other matters that may arise.
Kind Regards
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Barry Caine
P.S. A thought just entered my head,what about reading the DRO scale on the cross slide? From: clevinski? Sent: Friday, 13 September 2019 10:24 PM
To: barry
Subject: RE: Digital Hobbyist
?
Hi, Barry,
?
I suggest we continue the discussion on the Digital Hobbyist site so that we can get additional input from others who have knowledge of this system.? For now, attached you will find a crude, hand-drawn schematic, instructions for the CSS as implemented for the mini-lathe, a photo of the CSS and its control panel, and the circuit diagram for the Real Bull mini-lathe.
?
The circuit is intended for use on mini-lathe controls, which use a 4.7K potentiometer for speed control.? The switch in the CSS is a 4-pole double-throw type.? The wiring is such that, once installed, placing it in one position will place the original 4.7K pot in the circuit, and the lathe will operate as always.? If the switch is placed in the CSS position, the pot is removed from the circuit, and the CSS circuit attached is substituted.? Please refer to the CSS instructions for details on operation.
?
There are two key considerations in your case.? First is whether the slider pot that is used to sense the cross-slide position is long enough for your lathe.? What is your total cross-slide movement range?? This slider has a maximum range of only 100 mm (3.9 inches).? Longer sliders are probably available.? Also, it is possible to use a rotary pot driven by some gear or belt train that would mechanically reduce the cross-slide movement to the appropriate rotary movement.? This is dependent upon the individual lathe.
?
The second issue is how to control the speed.? It sounds like your current system is controlling the motor directly; is that correct?? I.E., is there a low-power control potentiometer that is setting the power and which we could replace with a CSS circuit?
?
I hope this helps.?
?
Cheers,
?
Charlie
New Jersey, USA
?
From: barry?
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2019 5:03 AM
To: clevinski
Subject: RE: Digital Hobbyist
?
Charles,
? ? ? ? ? ? ? I¡¯ve had a good look for further info re Constant Surface speed haven¡¯t been able to locate info on the sizes of the pots? used, neither have I turned up a schematic wiring diagram, can you help on both issues please, I¡¯m sure I know how the pots are arranged but would like hear it from the original source.
? ? ? ? ? ? ? I have been looking to fit my? manual lathe with CSS for some time, I¡¯ve made exhausting enquires including some of the DRO? and Lathe manufactures to no avail, it wasn¡¯t until I happened upon You Tube and John Lindo¡¯s post that got the juices flowing again, ramped up? so to speak.? Johns lathe is a little smaller than mine but I don¡¯t see why I would not be able to get CSS to work just because of size.
My? Lathe? specs.
? ? ? ? ?Centre lathe 300mmx1000mm
? ? ? ? 2 Axis Dro
? ? ? ? Gear drive? spindle / feeds and speeds
? ? ? ? 18 speeds? 85/1850RPm
? ? ? ? 180V dc/7amp 2.0 HP motor max Rpm? 4000(geared to 2000)
? ? ? ? AC 220V-240V? 1000W SCR? pot output? through a? KBCP 5010 bridge rectifier? (speed Control)
I have just converted this lathe to DC power so as to at least? have a variable speed range at the twist of a knob (VSD and new 3-phase motor just out not affordable)? ? This is why with this setup (DC power) I think that CSS is achievable. Well that¡¯s it in a nut shell ,I would like your thoughts on the above.
?
Whoo Roo and regards
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Barry
P.S. My mill and horizontal bandsaw are also DC powered.
? |
As an add on, whilst still fresh in my mind, the internal J S blocks. The internal locking ring diameter can be any size provided your largest collet diameter is smaller. The "cone" taper or pressure point against the collets need not match the collet front angle. provided the angle is less than, IE an acute angle less, more pressure can be applied by the ring by reducing the surface area between the two. Again I matched the locking ring angle to the collet angle, and works OK, collets are meant to grip equally around it?s diameter , nothing else. Cheers. On Sun, 8 Sep 2019 at 17:24, John Lindo via Groups.Io <bechetboat=[email protected]> wrote:
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John |
Exactly. in the photo it was just showing a few turns in. and total length of the ring will also depend on the distance the ring screws in and pushes down onto the front of the collet to clamp the part being gripped. You can make the ring as long as you like, the object being the front threaded part of the ring does not bottom out into the body threaded undercut before you have reached the full clamping potential. To check this, for example use a 5-6 mm collet, keep screwing the ring down onto the collet till it bottoms out, if you cannot then pass a 5 mm dia bar through the collet hole then you are OK , back the ring out 1 turn, the 5 mm bar should pass through the collet. It?s also possible to radially slot the front of the ring so as you can get a cutter almost to the front face of the collet. You would need to "sync" the ring first?by clamping down on a part so you will cut the radial slot vertical. Not done this yet, I have never needed to but an option if required. This alternate J Stevenson block is ideal for ER 16 - thru ER 25 with the smallest collets dia collets gripping less than 1 mm. I am not claiming a "new wheel invented", possibly this method has been tried before, but I do not know, but this internal type suits my needs,? if the forum members or anybody wants to make these different type of different angular blocks, consider 6 flats as standard,? always nice for making 6 sides, and the second block, 8 flats, why a square 4 sides ?, it?s nice to have the option to machine surfaces at 45 degrees to each other as well as 90 degrees. ?John On Sun, 8 Sep 2019 at 16:02, CLevinski <clevinski@...> wrote: On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 08:39 AM, John Lindo wrote: --
John |
On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 08:39 AM, John Lindo wrote:
John, When fully engaged with work in the collet, approximately how far is the front of the collet recessed from the front of the locking ring?? In the 4th photo, it appears that the collet itself is recessed by 10 mm or so, but? my recollection from your original photos is that it's only a few mm?? Of course, it will vary slightly with the fit of the work to the collet opening. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA |
Hi, John,
I believe that you included the wrong photos in your last? post.? The ones posted are of the Gear Reduction unit, not the square collet. Interesting how you used an adjustable parallel to support the end of the Stevenson block during milling. I remember when you made the internal ER32 nut originally that you had some very descriptive photos.? Perhaps those would explain the internal nut better? As usual, beautiful work!? I am looking forward to attempting this once I get ELS working. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA |
Bill Will do, but basically the locking ring pushes on the front face chamfer of the collets, this ring has a matching?angle to the collet. 2 wrench flats to turn the locking ring pressure on or off the the collets. Surprisingly it works.? Fresh photos in a couple of days. For your interest (photos) I have attached a 3D printed 20 mm square ER 32 collet for a good friend who had a need?in Australia. He is a serious wood worker and this collet did what he required. Run out/ eccentricity well within metal workers tolerances. You can buy square hole ER collets, special orders but you would need to take a second job to pay for them. I am retired. LOL I don?t have a first?job, well I do, it?s called a hobby, and of course there?s the normal wife honey does. just hate them. interferes with chips flying. John On Sat, 7 Sep 2019 at 11:55, Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
--
John |
Well, that addresses some problems I had finding a set of blocks I liked for my ER32 collet sets. Could you provide a little more detail on the internal locking collars? A photo or two should do it. :) I considered something like that, was looking to see if anyone made them, and not finding any. Not at all sure I could make the blocks for the standard external locking rings. Nice work! Bill in OKC On Saturday, September 7, 2019, 4:45:30 AM CDT, John Lindo <bechetboat@...> wrote: The late John Stevenson developed the ER 32 collet holders and was an overnight success. His original design still manufactured commercially was based around the ER 32. The problem being when buying commercial blocks the ER 32 locking collar has a larger diameter than the 4 or 6 sided body. this means when clamping the blocks horizontally in a standard mill vice the locking collar touches the jaws before clamping onto the 4 or 6 sides.not really an issue but means using packing pieces between the block flats? and the vise jaws. i wanted to find a solution, the easiest being, make the blocks larger across the flats than the diameter of the locking collar. I also wanted to use my ER 25 collets in a small 2" toolmakers vise. Solution, make a set of blocks with an internal locking ring that pushes the collets down the taper of the body. Set about doing this and instead of 4 flats I developed 8 flats and a traditional 6 flat holder. So the body was a standard lathe op, internal taper and screw-cut with the ELS. The internal locking ring, screw-cut and a 30 degree cone that pushes onto the collet. The block flats were milled and finish cuts were done using the Electronic Step Indexer. Using a ER 32 holder in the indexer spindle and a 16 mm ground bar stock, the internal block was clamped onto this. All worked out well, TIR of the flat variance from c/line within 0.0025". I hope the photos can explain better. -- John |
The late John Stevenson developed the ER 32 collet holders and was an overnight success.
His original design still manufactured commercially was based around the ER 32. The problem being when buying commercial blocks the ER 32 locking collar has a larger diameter than the 4 or 6 sided body. this means when clamping the blocks horizontally in a standard mill vice the locking collar touches the jaws before clamping onto the 4 or 6 sides.not really an issue but means using packing pieces between the block flats? and the vise jaws. i wanted to find a solution, the easiest being, make the blocks larger across the flats than the diameter of the locking collar. I also wanted to use my ER 25 collets in a small 2" toolmakers vise. Solution, make a set of blocks with an internal locking ring that pushes the collets down the taper of the body. Set about doing this and instead of 4 flats I developed 8 flats and a traditional 6 flat holder. So the body was a standard lathe op, internal taper and screw-cut with the ELS. The internal locking ring, screw-cut and a 30 degree cone that pushes onto the collet. The block flats were milled and finish cuts were done using the Electronic Step Indexer. Using a ER 32 holder in the indexer spindle and a 16 mm ground bar stock, the internal block was clamped onto this. All worked out well, TIR of the flat variance from c/line within 0.0025". I hope the photos can explain better. -- John |
Re: HF 25% Off Coupon 9/2/19
Hi Ralph, Tom!
I'm happy it worked for you! Not that any of us need to spend any more money, but a good link to keep an eye on for HF sales and coupons is?. Don't ignore the Insider Track Gallery for Coupons link at the top, either' ()...I have used those coupons in the store as well, although I usually cut off the part of the coupon that identifies it as an Club Exclusive just because... I always try out the coupon codes on the HF web site first, no matter what the coupon says...if it works there, it will work in the store. HF has so many coupons that nobody can keep up with them; the store people just scan them and if the computer accepts the coupon, you're good. |
Re: HF 25% Off Coupon 9/2/19
Monday I bought an Earthquake Impact driver which was listed as one of the disallowed manufacturers with my 25% off coupon. I have avoided buying some items because they were listed as "Cannot be used with ..." Next time I will try using the coupon.? Ralph On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 12:22 PM Tom King <tking2097@...> wrote:
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer |
Re: HF 25% Off Coupon 9/2/19
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks, "Not necessarily so¡± was again the case yesterday in spite of the disclaimer on the 25% coupon that it is not valid for Central Machinery items! I picked up a Central Machinery?Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw (item# 62377) yesterday at the store. The 25% coupon was accepted, saving me $65.00 off the normal retail price!The good news once again was, the coupon disclaimer ¡°Cannot be used with any of the following items¡± does not always apply even when an item is listed as an excluded item. Indeed, I guess the only way to know is to try the coupon! Thanks! - Tom
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