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Ok, I'm officially stealing that idea! I really like it! Thanks for sharing and starting this thread. Bill in OKC

Bruce, I guess I forgot to mention that I am retired... my bad! Very nice fix to the printer, and good looking print, from what I could see.? Congratulations!? That first print is a big

Hi, Lewis, No, I don't.? But now I am going to have to consider it! -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

Hi, Les, Very nice!? I have done the same, but mine is not as elegant as yours.? I left it flat to provide multiple mounting locations for the QCTP. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

Well, today, I’m trying to figure out folding a new feature into a large web application I'm responsible for :-) because I have to *work* today :-) but last weekend I got my 3D printer working First

Charlie - I'm in the process of building a 3d printer from scratch (starting to regret that decision as it's taking forever) and am planning to enclose it as well as I plan to be using ABS a lot. Do

I made a solid block to replace the compound to have more rigidity Regards

Hi, I also finished printing the box and cover for my RELS joystick control, and test assembled it.? I just need to wire it up now. -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

I have an enclosure for my 3D printer, to prevent stray air movements from cooling the part and extruder while printing higher temperature materials, like ABS.? but it makes seeing the printer like

Hello, All, I always admired this topic on Hobby Machinist, as it gets members to share more of their shop activities.? So I thought I would start this thread here.? I've added a few posts of my own

Hi, Jon, Sorry, I should have been more specific.? A conning tower nut is a nut that is threaded on to the cross-slide lead screw and actually moves the cross-slide.? As the lathe is originally

Charlie, Is this the "CONNING TOWER" nut?---Edited photo attempted to be attached- Little Machine shop says this is a locking lever

Interesting…I never knew vertical shapers existed! -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.

Has anybody else "thought" about "just" installing ball screws? You can get ball screws off ebay

Thanks John, real close, thinking about ordering 2, but maybe just 1 for now then I could get the resin 3D 3D printer. Bangood has 1 for <$30.00 Still not clear on the workflow, I assume one starts in

John, Photos of conning tower nut, per your request... -- Regards, Charlie New Jersey, USA

That is one of the reasons metal shapers are still popular among metalworking hobbyists. Keyways and splines are pretty easy to cut, including internal splines.

If you consider an extension block on the front of the compound. Suggest you cut in the dovetails that match the x slide.more rigid.and supports the gib when x slide is fully extended out. Needs s bit

Yes both sides of the RH plummer block.I removed about 4 mm per side if i recall. IE 2 x the overall thrust bearing thicknesses. This then also takes up the b/lash as there is nothing the LH end of

As we discussed chuck indexing.see photos. Important to avoid the index holes not running into the fixing studs and the scroll retaining holes. But doable. Also photos of the clamp to the carriage