Please excuse my cross-posting this.

The power cord on my Dremel #2 died up and disintegrated, so I decided to
rewire it. That wasn't too hard ... *except*, now it doesn't work at all. I
have been trying to disassemble it completely, but I can't figure out how.
Has anyone done it and remember what to do? Do you have a wiring diagram?

--
Regards,
Walter

Nathan,

? ? ?Although this forum is hosted by Yahoo, it's inception was as a message board attached specifically to the web site: "Yardbirdtrains.com." There's nothing happenstance about it. Although it is possible to find and join this forum without going through the Yard Bird Trains website, let us not dismiss it's origins.?

Jeff

jppellas@...

-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 15, 2013 5:10 pm
Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Fwd: Two new repower kits from NWSL

?

I do believe our host is Yahoo, we just came together with the common interest of the locomotives that Yardbird Trains happens to supply parts for. As far as I am aware, Yahoo does not supply any sort of model railroad related items.

Nathan Rich

On Mar 15, 2013 6:40 PM, "bondkarl777" <kbkchooch@...> wrote:

Nice kits, but our host supplies kits for these engines too.


.
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., ebtnut@... wrote:
>
>
> This just came over the wire (so to speak). ?Thought it might be of interest to the group.
>
> DM
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: NorthWest Short Line
> To: ebtnut
> Sent: Fri, Mar 15, 2013 2:04 pm
> Subject: Two new repower kits from NWSL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Repower Kits from NWSL
> Month Year
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dear Deane,
>
>
> Howdy!
>
>
> It's been quite some time since we've sent out a newsletter. We do try not to burden your inbox, although we do want to make you aware of new products. We haven't had any new major products in a while but we've had a number of introductions, and we thought we'd share a couple of those here.
>
>
> With fewer and fewer new products coming in from the traditional manufacturers, and with the economy continuing to put a pinch on everything, we've seen a definite increase in modelers taking old models off the shelf and re-power them to get them going on the layout. NWSL has always specialized in providing parts for this kind of thing, although instead of individual gears, gearboxes, and motors, we've had an increasing number of requests for complete kits for specific locomotives. We'd like to share a couple of those with you in this newsletter--there is hope for those older models!
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
> David Rygmyr
>
> NWSL/Oso Railworks, Inc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> IN THIS ISSUE
>
> HO Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 Repower Kit
>
> HO Scale Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> HO Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 Repower Kit
>
>
> Pictured here are the "guts" of an original Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 HO scale steam locomotive. Notice the original "open frame" motor (windings are visible) plus the original plastic worm on the motor shaft. These stalwart little engines were and are very popular, although original factory replacement parts are long gone.
>
>
> Here's the same engine (chassis only) after installation of the NWSL repower kit...zooming along! The kit includes a new DCC-friendly motor, a polished steel worm, a machined Delrin axle gear, and even a flywheel to help with inertia if the engine needs to coast over a dirty section of track. The motor is held in place with Permatex Ultra-Black Gasket Sealer, which you supply yourself.
>
>
> The kit includes instructions; here's a PDF file of those instructions if you want to read them in advance:
> HO Scale Mantua/Tyco Repower kit
>
>
>
> The kit itself is #1172-4 and is available now through your local hobby shop or here.
>
>
>
>
>
> HO Scale Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit
>
>
> Definitely a classic in model railroading: The Varney HO scale Dockside 0-4-0T engine. These rugged little units have earned their reputation,but Varney goes way back and you won't find factory parts for this little workhorse anywhere. Shown here is the original drive including the open frame motor.
>
>
> Here's that same Dockside with the NWSL repower kit installed. The polished steel worm on the motor shaft and the machined Delrin gear on the drive axle ensures smooth, quiet operation, and the DCC-friendly motor has plenty of power along with good slow speed running characteristics.
>
>
> The kit includes instructions and here's a PDF version that you can read in advance:
> HO Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit
>
>
> This kit is part #1170-4 and is available now through your local hobby shop or here.
>
>
>
>
> I'd love to end this newsletter with some dazzling industry insight but unfortunately there isn't much around these days. Factors like a soft economy, with no end in sight, and rising costs and regulations have all created an environment where new products have slowed to a trickle while prices continue to creep up. Enthusiasm and optimism remain high, although we look forward to the day when the plans and ideas we learn about actually come to fruition.
>
> Meanwhile, let's all just keep it going and keep it fun!
>
> Sincerely,
>
> David Rygmyr
>
> Oso Railworks, Inc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Forward this email
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This email was sent to ebtnut@... by davidry@... |
> Update Profile/Email Address | Instant removal with SafeUnsubscribe??? | Privacy Policy.
>
>
> Oso Railworks, Inc. | PO Box 1349 | Hamilton | MT | 59840
>




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Nice kits, but our host supplies kits for these engines too.


.
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., ebtnut@... wrote:
>
>
> This just came over the wire (so to speak). ?Thought it might be of interest to the group.
>
> DM
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: NorthWest Short Line
> To: ebtnut
> Sent: Fri, Mar 15, 2013 2:04 pm
> Subject: Two new repower kits from NWSL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Repower Kits from NWSL
> Month Year
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Dear Deane,
>
>
> Howdy!
>
>
> It's been quite some time since we've sent out a newsletter. We do try not to burden your inbox, although we do want to make you aware of new products. We haven't had any new major products in a while but we've had a number of introductions, and we thought we'd share a couple of those here.
>
>
> With fewer and fewer new products coming in from the traditional manufacturers, and with the economy continuing to put a pinch on everything, we've seen a definite increase in modelers taking old models off the shelf and re-power them to get them going on the layout. NWSL has always specialized in providing parts for this kind of thing, although instead of individual gears, gearboxes, and motors, we've had an increasing number of requests for complete kits for specific locomotives. We'd like to share a couple of those with you in this newsletter--there is hope for those older models!
>
> Sincerely,
>
>
> David Rygmyr
>
> NWSL/Oso Railworks, Inc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> IN THIS ISSUE
>
> HO Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 Repower Kit
>
> HO Scale Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> HO Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 Repower Kit
>
>
> Pictured here are the "guts" of an original Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 HO scale steam locomotive. Notice the original "open frame" motor (windings are visible) plus the original plastic worm on the motor shaft. These stalwart little engines were and are very popular, although original factory replacement parts are long gone.
>
>
> Here's the same engine (chassis only) after installation of the NWSL repower kit...zooming along! The kit includes a new DCC-friendly motor, a polished steel worm, a machined Delrin axle gear, and even a flywheel to help with inertia if the engine needs to coast over a dirty section of track. The motor is held in place with Permatex Ultra-Black Gasket Sealer, which you supply yourself.
>
>
> The kit includes instructions; here's a PDF file of those instructions if you want to read them in advance:
> HO Scale Mantua/Tyco Repower kit
>
>
>
> The kit itself is #1172-4 and is available now through your local hobby shop or here.
>
>
>
>
>
> HO Scale Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit
>
>
> Definitely a classic in model railroading: The Varney HO scale Dockside 0-4-0T engine. These rugged little units have earned their reputation,but Varney goes way back and you won't find factory parts for this little workhorse anywhere. Shown here is the original drive including the open frame motor.
>
>
> Here's that same Dockside with the NWSL repower kit installed. The polished steel worm on the motor shaft and the machined Delrin gear on the drive axle ensures smooth, quiet operation, and the DCC-friendly motor has plenty of power along with good slow speed running characteristics.
>
>
> The kit includes instructions and here's a PDF version that you can read in advance:
> HO Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit
>
>
> This kit is part #1170-4 and is available now through your local hobby shop or here.
>
>
>
>
> I'd love to end this newsletter with some dazzling industry insight but unfortunately there isn't much around these days. Factors like a soft economy, with no end in sight, and rising costs and regulations have all created an environment where new products have slowed to a trickle while prices continue to creep up. Enthusiasm and optimism remain high, although we look forward to the day when the plans and ideas we learn about actually come to fruition.
>
> Meanwhile, let's all just keep it going and keep it fun!
>
> Sincerely,
>
> David Rygmyr
>
> Oso Railworks, Inc.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Forward this email
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This email was sent to ebtnut@... by davidry@... |
> Update Profile/Email Address | Instant removal with SafeUnsubscribe??? | Privacy Policy.
>
>
> Oso Railworks, Inc. | PO Box 1349 | Hamilton | MT | 59840
>




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? ?

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? ?
? ? (Yahoo! ID required)

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This just came over the wire (so to speak). Thought it might be of interest to the group.

DM



-----Original Message-----
From: NorthWest Short Line <davidry@...>
To: ebtnut <ebtnut@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 15, 2013 2:04 pm
Subject: Two new repower kits from NWSL


















Repower Kits from NWSL
Month Year










Dear Deane,


Howdy!


It's been quite some time since we've sent out a newsletter. We do try not to burden your inbox, although we do want to make you aware of new products. We haven't had any new major products in a while but we've had a number of introductions, and we thought we'd share a couple of those here.


With fewer and fewer new products coming in from the traditional manufacturers, and with the economy continuing to put a pinch on everything, we've seen a definite increase in modelers taking old models off the shelf and re-power them to get them going on the layout. NWSL has always specialized in providing parts for this kind of thing, although instead of individual gears, gearboxes, and motors, we've had an increasing number of requests for complete kits for specific locomotives. We'd like to share a couple of those with you in this newsletter--there is hope for those older models!

Sincerely,


David Rygmyr

NWSL/Oso Railworks, Inc.







IN THIS ISSUE

HO Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 Repower Kit

HO Scale Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit









HO Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 Repower Kit


Pictured here are the "guts" of an original Mantua/Tyco 0-6-0 HO scale steam locomotive. Notice the original "open frame" motor (windings are visible) plus the original plastic worm on the motor shaft. These stalwart little engines were and are very popular, although original factory replacement parts are long gone.


Here's the same engine (chassis only) after installation of the NWSL repower kit...zooming along! The kit includes a new DCC-friendly motor, a polished steel worm, a machined Delrin axle gear, and even a flywheel to help with inertia if the engine needs to coast over a dirty section of track. The motor is held in place with Permatex Ultra-Black Gasket Sealer, which you supply yourself.


The kit includes instructions; here's a PDF file of those instructions if you want to read them in advance:
HO Scale Mantua/Tyco Repower kit



The kit itself is #1172-4 and is available now through your local hobby shop or here.





HO Scale Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit


Definitely a classic in model railroading: The Varney HO scale Dockside 0-4-0T engine. These rugged little units have earned their reputation,but Varney goes way back and you won't find factory parts for this little workhorse anywhere. Shown here is the original drive including the open frame motor.


Here's that same Dockside with the NWSL repower kit installed. The polished steel worm on the motor shaft and the machined Delrin gear on the drive axle ensures smooth, quiet operation, and the DCC-friendly motor has plenty of power along with good slow speed running characteristics.


The kit includes instructions and here's a PDF version that you can read in advance:
HO Varney 0-4-0T Dockside Repower Kit


This kit is part #1170-4 and is available now through your local hobby shop or here.




I'd love to end this newsletter with some dazzling industry insight but unfortunately there isn't much around these days. Factors like a soft economy, with no end in sight, and rising costs and regulations have all created an environment where new products have slowed to a trickle while prices continue to creep up. Enthusiasm and optimism remain high, although we look forward to the day when the plans and ideas we learn about actually come to fruition.

Meanwhile, let's all just keep it going and keep it fun!

Sincerely,

David Rygmyr

Oso Railworks, Inc.




















Forward this email








This email was sent to ebtnut@... by davidry@... |
Update Profile/Email Address | Instant removal with SafeUnsubscribe??? | Privacy Policy.


Oso Railworks, Inc. | PO Box 1349 | Hamilton | MT | 59840

?

?

?I identified loco as U.P. loco from balboa centenial set.
I added spare tender photos to album
?In the box with this loco was a spare tender(very nice condition),the one for the jupiter(other loco in set)would be nice if there was a loco to go with it,have suspicion it got thrown away as being silver it was considered toy plastic loco despite detail,that is where the brass one was going until a friend of mine saw it knowing I could assemble it or use for parts,amazing how something is garbage until someone wants it and all of the sudden its a valueable item needing to be purchased(but thats a club political argument that could go on for months without resolution).I am wondering what the type truck with leaf spring on top of side frame is called.Now person who is getting rid of his collection that I got all the locos from came up with 50+ sets of central valley trucks,a bunch of tenshodo tender trucks and another shoebox full of mostly brass trucks he wants to get rid of,waiting on a price from him,I could go broke getting these good deals.He should put them on e-bay but he has to many of his affairs to settle to do this.
? ? Alan

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "Alan" wrote:
>
> ?I added album to photos of this engine,This was found in a box of donated items at my old club.I have the opurtunity to get it but before I make an offer I would like to know more about it,going by the loose what appear to be unused parts,filed slots in running boards for separate boiler bands,it looks like it might be a well assembled kit which raises the question why it wasn't completed.I may be able to get it cheap depending on what it is and age the castings look like they could be old.Any ideas?
> ?Alan
>




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I added album to photos of this engine,This was found in a box of donated items at my old club.I have the opurtunity to get it but before I make an offer I would like to know more about it,going by the loose what appear to be unused parts,filed slots in running boards for separate boiler bands,it looks like it might be a well assembled kit which raises the question why it wasn't completed.I may be able to get it cheap depending on what it is and age the castings look like they could be old.Any ideas?
Alan

Then a segment must be shorted to the motor shaft, to the motor frame, then to the loco frame. The only way I can get it t0 not smoke the decoder is to put capton tape under the motor, and use a nylon screw. Then it runs, but gear mesh issues occur when the motor rocks back and disengages the axle gear. Nylon screws are about as tough as a wet noodle.
Already emailed Dan, going for the can motor kit as soon as he gets more in (next week?) 40 years of hard running, it deserves a new motor!!


--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" <idioticyahoo@> wrote:

No. Motor shaft runs in metal oillite bearings inserted into the frame.
Short, on purpose.
If you have continuity from the commutator segements, and of them, to the shaft, it's toast.
I thought that was what we had been discussing?
Dave

Im quite certain its the motor

The brushes were not insulated til all the soldering was done. With the motor out of the engine, my continuity tester shows a short between the motor frame and the end of the motor shaft at the gear.
sometimes it accelerated from a stop fine, sometimes you have to "thunk" the motor to get it ti run, low speed operation is erratic, but the headlight never flickers so pickup is ok.

If it waddles like a duck, quacks like a duck, and swims like a duck, it must be a duck. My motor is a duck!

I think its time for a Humper with a flywheel/gear!

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "john" <vytis1952@> wrote:

1. Does it run ok on DC? If motor is shorting intermittently it may still run ok on DC, but short will show up a "bump" on the needle of an ammeter...the finer the scale on your meter the easier it is to see. Try running as slowly as possible as short and therefore bump will last longer/be bigger. If no meter, try running as slowly as possible, Does it stall? If so mark segment of armature with sharpie. Try again...if it stalls in the same place as you made your mark, examine an see if you can spot trouble at this point. If it stalls randomly, it's either pickup or mechanical, not motor.
2. I think it more probable than not that there is a short somewhere other than the motor. make sure the insulation is ok on the brush where you added it. I've seen guys melt it while soldering DCC lead.
Try running on DCC w/o boiler shell. If works ok, problem is probably RH motor brush or wiring rubbing on boiler shell. This won't cause problem on DC as RH brush and boiler shell is grounded thru frame and RH drivers....it will raise hell with DCC though. Try insulating both motor brushes and inside of boiler shell with tape. If that works ok, you can either just run as is, or try to figure out what's making contact with what and solve the problem by grinding it away with your moto tool.
3. make sure all DCC connections are well insulated, preferably with shrink tubing. DCC is WAY more senstive to shorts than DCC since loco is picking up full track power at all times.
jbb

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "rxensen" <rxensen@> wrote:

I had no problems making mine DCC by insulating the brushes.
I was addressing the shorted armature. I agree. That the sharp edge a old wire ( heat does't help) can cut the insulation.
I have not encountered this, but sure can see how it would happen. Working with different motors I have found the can motor, with many hours of use, short out from brush dust.
Ron

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" <idioticyahoo@> wrote:

The pole pieces where the wires wind has sharp edges. Usually they are wrapped with protective coverings. Over time those coverings can dry, crumble, fracture, shift....and all it takes is one wire piece touching the pole piece.
Dave

Help me out. I think you are saying if any segment is shorted to the brush armature segment, you will have a problem.
The steel shaft is directly connected to the steel part which the motor wire is wound on.
The insulated winding wire must not be shorted to the steel segments.
My explanation may just confuse things.
Ron christensen not related to the man with the very expensive brass engine.

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" <idioticyahoo@> wrote:

Ah. You can have a ground back thropugh the armature. Have one here with that very issue (been waiting for a couple of years for the supplier to send a good one).
If the armature shaft has grounded to any winding anywhere, you have a path.
Remove the brushes completely and check again.
You may need a new motor, or at least a good armature.
Dave

Guys, Its together, it runs, the lights work, BUT....Here's one for the
more experienced DCC/open frame motor guys.As I stated earlier, I fried
the 1st decoder, after programming, but it only ran about a foot or so
before it stalled. So I grabbed an old DH121 and wired it in. In the
process of putting in a new decoder I found 2 issues. 1 was a bad bind
in the mechanism caused by my own fat fingers. (easily fixed) The 2nd
was the discovery of an electrical path from the armature to the chassis
, through the motor frame. So I installed Capton tape along the bottom
of the motor and put a nylon screw into the motor instead of the steel
one. Electrical path solved, I reprogrammed the engine, and it ran.
However, under load or quickly reversing you can hear the gears slip as
the engine moves on the nylon screw....It never did this in DC. So my
question is, was the Nylon screw and tape unnecessary? I don't know if
It was the bind that fried the decoder, or the electrical path on the
motor, or what?? What do you guys do? [:-/] I'll try to add some pics to
my album of the little guy, looks great with the added valve gear!Karl
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Victor Bitleris <bitlerisvj@>
wrote:

You can shim the rear end of the motor a bit to help with the mesh.

If you use a piece of flat rubber, from a rubber band or something, it
will provide an easy adjustment by tightening or loosening the motor
screw. If you really like the little loco and want a better, more
permanent solution, use one of Dan's can motors with a worm fly or a
Helix Humper. That way you can use a DZ125 or similar.Regards,

Vic Bitleris
Raleigh, NC

To: yardbirdtrains@...
From: kbkchooch@
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 14:52:30 +0000
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Little six redux




























Got the DCC in last night, but not before I fried 1 decoder :-(



I insulated the brushes, still put a burn mark on the decoder right

where the red wire goes into the motor drivers...I'll call NCE today and
throw myself at Larry's feet... In the meantime I checked my decoder
stock, and the only thing I had that fit was an old Digitrash DH121....
Oh well, better than nothing!!

Got it in and running last night, put capton tape under the motor, now

the gear isn't meshing quite right,,,,gonna futz with that later.

Headlight is in, 2 bisecting holes in the casting an a wire

pic,,,,,pics to follow

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "rxensen" wrote:

I recently put DCC in a old 6, It was almost a drop in as the motor

doesn't have to be isolated only the brushes. A wire under the cylinder
casting and a wire under a screw in the tender will make the electric
connections, than the 2 wires to the brushes.

Now a light in front HUM

I could take a picture if you are interested.

Ron Christensen

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "bondkarl777" wrote:

Here's a little story of a little engine and a big mistake, and a

recovery.

Part 1, 13 year old boy and his Dad built a Mantua kit, their 2nd

loco project. Kid runs the snot out of the engine, then girls enter his
life, and the little engine gets packed away. 15 or so years pass, the
little engine comes out of storage. It's a bit stiff, seems noisier,
gets fresh paint and decals, and sees limited use, til DCC comes along.
Relegated to a display case, more years pass. Finally it's pulled from
mothballs and taken to the workbench for a mechanical overhaul, relube,
new valve gear and conversion to DCC.

After being stripped down mechanically , cleaned, contact surfaces

polished, lubed and retested, still seemed a little weak. An upgrade in
motor magnets seemed in order. So far, so good.

Then I got new/used valve gear. Here's where the fun starts. If

you have a "little six", don't get valve gear for a "big six". Just cuz
its a six, doesn't mean it will fit! I had to mix and match everything
from the 2 kits together, and even then still had to raid my old parts
bin for the eccentric and the rod attached to it.( from a Penn Line
Atlantic) I remember riveting valve linkage when I was 13, and had saved
a lot of spare rivets from old Mantua and Bowser kits over the years. At
the age of 52, I don't remember them being so damn small! Eventually it
all was assembled, and the wife had learned how to properly peen over a
rivet! Then 2 hours on the test track, nothing fell off!

Finally, since electric is only picked p on the first 2 drivers,

today I fashioned a wiper from a Kaydee spring and installed it.

Tomorrow, (if it doesn't snow) I'll go to my LHS and pick up a

decoder. I'll try to attach a pic so far, stay tuned!

Then a segment must be shorted to the motor shaft, to the motor frame, then to the loco frame. The only way I can get it t0 not smoke the decoder is to put capton tape under the motor, and use a nylon screw. Then it runs, but gear mesh issues occur when the motor rocks back and disengages the axle gear. Nylon screws are about as tough as a wet noodle.
Already emailed Dan, going for the can motor kit as soon as he gets more in (next week?) 40 years of hard running, it deserves a new motor!!


--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" <idioticyahoo@> wrote:

No. Motor shaft runs in metal oillite bearings inserted into the frame.
Short, on purpose.
If you have continuity from the commutator segements, and of them, to the shaft, it's toast.
I thought that was what we had been discussing?
Dave

Im quite certain its the motor

The brushes were not insulated til all the soldering was done. With the motor out of the engine, my continuity tester shows a short between the motor frame and the end of the motor shaft at the gear.
sometimes it accelerated from a stop fine, sometimes you have to "thunk" the motor to get it ti run, low speed operation is erratic, but the headlight never flickers so pickup is ok.

If it waddles like a duck, quacks like a duck, and swims like a duck, it must be a duck. My motor is a duck!

I think its time for a Humper with a flywheel/gear!

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "john" <vytis1952@> wrote:

1. Does it run ok on DC? If motor is shorting intermittently it may still run ok on DC, but short will show up a "bump" on the needle of an ammeter...the finer the scale on your meter the easier it is to see. Try running as slowly as possible as short and therefore bump will last longer/be bigger. If no meter, try running as slowly as possible, Does it stall? If so mark segment of armature with sharpie. Try again...if it stalls in the same place as you made your mark, examine an see if you can spot trouble at this point. If it stalls randomly, it's either pickup or mechanical, not motor.
2. I think it more probable than not that there is a short somewhere other than the motor. make sure the insulation is ok on the brush where you added it. I've seen guys melt it while soldering DCC lead.
Try running on DCC w/o boiler shell. If works ok, problem is probably RH motor brush or wiring rubbing on boiler shell. This won't cause problem on DC as RH brush and boiler shell is grounded thru frame and RH drivers....it will raise hell with DCC though. Try insulating both motor brushes and inside of boiler shell with tape. If that works ok, you can either just run as is, or try to figure out what's making contact with what and solve the problem by grinding it away with your moto tool.
3. make sure all DCC connections are well insulated, preferably with shrink tubing. DCC is WAY more senstive to shorts than DCC since loco is picking up full track power at all times.
jbb

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "rxensen" <rxensen@> wrote:

I had no problems making mine DCC by insulating the brushes.
I was addressing the shorted armature. I agree. That the sharp edge a old wire ( heat does't help) can cut the insulation.
I have not encountered this, but sure can see how it would happen. Working with different motors I have found the can motor, with many hours of use, short out from brush dust.
Ron

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" <idioticyahoo@> wrote:

The pole pieces where the wires wind has sharp edges. Usually they are wrapped with protective coverings. Over time those coverings can dry, crumble, fracture, shift....and all it takes is one wire piece touching the pole piece.
Dave

Help me out. I think you are saying if any segment is shorted to the brush armature segment, you will have a problem.
The steel shaft is directly connected to the steel part which the motor wire is wound on.
The insulated winding wire must not be shorted to the steel segments.
My explanation may just confuse things.
Ron christensen not related to the man with the very expensive brass engine.

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "trainsnwrcs" <idioticyahoo@> wrote:

Ah. You can have a ground back thropugh the armature. Have one here with that very issue (been waiting for a couple of years for the supplier to send a good one).
If the armature shaft has grounded to any winding anywhere, you have a path.
Remove the brushes completely and check again.
You may need a new motor, or at least a good armature.
Dave

Guys, Its together, it runs, the lights work, BUT....Here's one for the
more experienced DCC/open frame motor guys.As I stated earlier, I fried
the 1st decoder, after programming, but it only ran about a foot or so
before it stalled. So I grabbed an old DH121 and wired it in. In the
process of putting in a new decoder I found 2 issues. 1 was a bad bind
in the mechanism caused by my own fat fingers. (easily fixed) The 2nd
was the discovery of an electrical path from the armature to the chassis
, through the motor frame. So I installed Capton tape along the bottom
of the motor and put a nylon screw into the motor instead of the steel
one. Electrical path solved, I reprogrammed the engine, and it ran.
However, under load or quickly reversing you can hear the gears slip as
the engine moves on the nylon screw....It never did this in DC. So my
question is, was the Nylon screw and tape unnecessary? I don't know if
It was the bind that fried the decoder, or the electrical path on the
motor, or what?? What do you guys do? [:-/] I'll try to add some pics to
my album of the little guy, looks great with the added valve gear!Karl
--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Victor Bitleris <bitlerisvj@>
wrote:

You can shim the rear end of the motor a bit to help with the mesh.

If you use a piece of flat rubber, from a rubber band or something, it
will provide an easy adjustment by tightening or loosening the motor
screw. If you really like the little loco and want a better, more
permanent solution, use one of Dan's can motors with a worm fly or a
Helix Humper. That way you can use a DZ125 or similar.Regards,

Vic Bitleris
Raleigh, NC

To: yardbirdtrains@...
From: kbkchooch@
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 14:52:30 +0000
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Little six redux




























Got the DCC in last night, but not before I fried 1 decoder :-(



I insulated the brushes, still put a burn mark on the decoder right

where the red wire goes into the motor drivers...I'll call NCE today and
throw myself at Larry's feet... In the meantime I checked my decoder
stock, and the only thing I had that fit was an old Digitrash DH121....
Oh well, better than nothing!!

Got it in and running last night, put capton tape under the motor, now

the gear isn't meshing quite right,,,,gonna futz with that later.

Headlight is in, 2 bisecting holes in the casting an a wire

pic,,,,,pics to follow

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "rxensen" wrote:

I recently put DCC in a old 6, It was almost a drop in as the motor

doesn't have to be isolated only the brushes. A wire under the cylinder
casting and a wire under a screw in the tender will make the electric
connections, than the 2 wires to the brushes.

Now a light in front HUM

I could take a picture if you are interested.

Ron Christensen

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "bondkarl777" wrote:

Here's a little story of a little engine and a big mistake, and a

recovery.

Part 1, 13 year old boy and his Dad built a Mantua kit, their 2nd

loco project. Kid runs the snot out of the engine, then girls enter his
life, and the little engine gets packed away. 15 or so years pass, the
little engine comes out of storage. It's a bit stiff, seems noisier,
gets fresh paint and decals, and sees limited use, til DCC comes along.
Relegated to a display case, more years pass. Finally it's pulled from
mothballs and taken to the workbench for a mechanical overhaul, relube,
new valve gear and conversion to DCC.

After being stripped down mechanically , cleaned, contact surfaces

polished, lubed and retested, still seemed a little weak. An upgrade in
motor magnets seemed in order. So far, so good.

Then I got new/used valve gear. Here's where the fun starts. If

you have a "little six", don't get valve gear for a "big six". Just cuz
its a six, doesn't mean it will fit! I had to mix and match everything
from the 2 kits together, and even then still had to raid my old parts
bin for the eccentric and the rod attached to it.( from a Penn Line
Atlantic) I remember riveting valve linkage when I was 13, and had saved
a lot of spare rivets from old Mantua and Bowser kits over the years. At
the age of 52, I don't remember them being so damn small! Eventually it
all was assembled, and the wife had learned how to properly peen over a
rivet! Then 2 hours on the test track, nothing fell off!

Finally, since electric is only picked p on the first 2 drivers,

today I fashioned a wiper from a Kaydee spring and installed it.

Tomorrow, (if it doesn't snow) I'll go to my LHS and pick up a

decoder. I'll try to attach a pic so far, stay tuned!