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Re: Estate items for sale
Mary Long
--- On Mon, 2/25/13, Nathan Rich wrote:
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Re: Yarbirds...Fast Service!
Mary Long
--- On Sun, 2/24/13, john wrote:
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Re: Estate items for sale
Nathan Rich
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I'm helping a friend sell of stick kits Here is a short list; |
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Re: Old Kit Tips
开云体育I'm with Chuck on using beeswax for a tap lubricant.? One thing I do
miss, and haven't been able to locate in recent years, are the 1mm valve gear
screws.? PFM once had them available, and they were a great alternative to
the rivets.? They had a 1mm thread, and a shoulder between the threads and
the head that was thick enough to accommodate a valve gear link.? I still
have a couple in the metric screws drawer, but would like some more.? You
can, of course, get 1mm taps.?
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DM |
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Re: Old Kit Tips: Model Power E Units
lnnrr
Are you thinking coating the existing frame in resin or doing a
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total replacement? I doubt that a coating would do much except cause fitting up problems. As for replacement, I think that might be a possibility. If you catch a suspect piece soon enough, before it swells, warps, or just breaks, you might be able to get a good mold from it. Sort of depends on how complex the part. If you can manage a one piece mold, great. Two part still possible. Beyond that would be difficult, I think. Then choosing the casting material and method. A vacuum casting to minimize bubbles might be best for a home job. I would think, probably wrongly, that a metal containing epoxy resin would be best for rigidity. That is what a frame is for, strength. Devcon steel would be good, I guess. There is an aluminum sort, called what, Alumilite or such. Might be strong enough but with less weight. But the aluminium might flow better and give a better casting. I haven't done much myself so I'm guessing here. Certainly would be worth looking into for irreplaceable favorites. I doubt that I'll run out of Mantua mikado parts. Chuck Peck --- In yardbirdtrains@..., "Denis Long" <avanti78@...> wrote:
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Re: Neat Mantua Kitbash
开云体育Rhino-Proof packing was from the old Pro Custom Hobbies in Catonsville,
MD.? That was back when Joe Luber was running the shop.? He's long
since passed away.? Pro Custom is still around, but just barely.?
Kinda like most LHS's? in recent years - just hanging on if they're still
around at all.?
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DM |
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Estate items for sale
I'm helping a friend sell of stick kits Here is a short list;
Ambroid No. 1 US Navy Helium Tank Car One of 5000 Less T/C Ambroid No. 7 B&O Cushion Coil Car One of 5000 Less T/C Ambroid H-19 L&HR Flanger Incomplete Parts Ambroid H-5 UP 60' Postal Baggage less trucks/couplers Ambroid H-5 UP 60' Postal Baggage less trucks/couplers Ambroid H-23 Golden Loaf Flour Air Slide Hopper less trucks/couplers We are asking $10 in cash or money order, postage $5 (Priority Mail Flat Rate, no insurance) unless you ask and pay the extra. Ron Christensen |
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Re: Weather worries ?
I trust my my eyes and wet finger outdoors more than the weathermen.
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Joel Holmes I ??trust my arthritis more than the weather guessers !???? Henry |
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Re: Weather worries ?
Hi Denis,
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Good point. I did not realize that our highly educated weathermen were that accurate. I belong to a rain reporting group. We are trying to get the weathermen to understand rain fall. Joel Holmes Henri, |
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Re: Weather worries ?
Mary Long
--- On Sun, 2/24/13, Denis Long wrote:
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Re: Weather worries ?
开云体育Henri, That Penn rodent is 40% accurate, same as our highly educated meteorologists.? Now, what do you think of their veracity. Denis |
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Re: Old Kit Tips: Model Power E Units
开云体育Chuck, Oh Boy!? Zinc rot again.? I coated my Arbour valve linkages & rods with CA.? Don’t know if it will work, but at 74 years, it doesn’t have to last too long.? When last I ran the H8, she did OK, and with sound! What about doing the zinc frame in a resin casting? Denis |
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Re: You Won't believe this Great Buy--And it's been REDUCED
bondkarl777
Wow, I mean just wow!
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--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Sean Naylor <a69mustang4me@...> wrote:
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Re: Old Kit Tips: Model Power E Units
Nathan Rich
I'm glad I joined this group, so many great ideas... Nathan On Feb 24, 2013 1:52 PM, "Denis Long" <avanti78@...> wrote:
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Re: You Won't believe this Great Buy--And it's been REDUCED
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On Feb 24, 2013, at 3:54 PM, Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...> wrote:
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Re: You Won't believe this Great Buy--And it's been REDUCED
Nathan Rich
HOLY COW WHAT A STEAL! I can't believe this has such a low price!! This guy's nuts. I want to watch it to see if he ever sells it... Nathan On Feb 24, 2013 1:47 PM, "DenisL" <avanti78@...> wrote:
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Re: Old Kit Tips: Model Power E Units
开云体育Yes, these guys are great.? Mechanics, engineers, historians, etc. Denis |
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Poor Man's Mazuire Drive Shaft/was Model Power E Unit
You old timers will recall the beautiful Mazurie drive shaft that was available way back when. It was a beautiful piece of work, with tiny machined universals and a telescoping drive shaft. I'm lucky enough to have one on my Bowser Challenger.
I've stumbled on a way to easily make a telescoping drive shaft, and have been using them on all my tender drive tea kettles with great satisfaction. ( All you guys who figured this out before me are laughing at my just now catching on, I'm sure) They work perfectly in situations were you are trying to hook up different shaft sizes What you need is: 1/16 square tubing 3/32 square tubing 3 to 3.3 od, .8 to 1 mm id Silicone (not rubber) tubing. I got mine on Ebay, but a well stocked LHS that caters to plane guys may have it. I believe it's actually medical tubing, so you might try asking your doc. Cut one piece of each of the sizes of tubing a little more than half the distance between the shafts. My Xacto metal miter box has channnels in it that make it a snap to cut this stuff with a razor saw. Deburr the ends, clean out the insides of the ends with a round needle file. and break the edges of the ends. Make sure the smaller tube slips freely in the bigger one. Cut a short piece of tubing for each shaft end, making it long enough to hold the channel and motor/gearbox shaft securely while leaving a gap between them for the silicone to flex. Slide the short tube in the larger one and hook everything up. That silicone tubing will fit motor shaft from standard size down to 1.5mm w/o slipping and flexes like you won't believe till you try it. It's also great for replacing that old black rubber stuff used between motors and gearboxes. I'd recommend blacking the shaft over painting. I use the Micro engineering weathering stuff. The trick to getting it to work is to clean the pieces to be blackened in lacquer thinner, then put them in a small container and cover with solution. Brushing the stuff on does not work nearly as well. You can also blacken them with magic marker, which will last a surprisingly long time and won't gum up the works like paint. I've found they run much quieter than most factory supplied universals, and there's no !@$# dog bone to fall out and get itself lost. These shafts stay together until you take 'em apart. If you try this, let me know what you think. I'm considering writing it up for the model press. JBB |
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ron christensen
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