?

?

Where can one buy rivets?

?Ron Perma Frost ?

? ?

--- On Sun, 2/24/13, lnnrr <lnnrr@...> wrote:

From: lnnrr <lnnrr@...>
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Old Kit Tips
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Date: Sunday, February 24, 2013, 9:35 PM

Thousands of engines have run for years with rivets. I would not
hesitate to use a screw where I had a wallowed-out hole and no
oversized rivet to fit. My suggestion is to go with the makers
original design. It's been proven good by many modelers.
Chuck Peck

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@> wrote:

Ah yes, that's always fun when that happens. The rods sort of eat
themselves and the locomotive kicks itself off the mainline...

Would it be recommended to use screws for the valve gear from the start
instead of the rivets or am I better off with the rivets? If so, which
screws should be used?

Nathan

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

From: lnnrr
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Old Kit Tips
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Date: Sunday, February 24, 2013, 9:35 PM

Thousands of engines have run for years with rivets. I would not
hesitate to use a screw where I had a wallowed-out hole and no
oversized rivet to fit. My suggestion is to go with the makers
original design. It's been proven good by many modelers.
Chuck Peck

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Nathan Rich >
> Ah yes, that's always fun when that happens. The rods sort of eat
> themselves and the locomotive kicks itself off the mainline...
>
> Would it be recommended to use screws for the valve gear from the start
> instead of the rivets or am I better off with the rivets? If so, which
> screws should be used?
>
> Nathan
>



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From: john
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Old Kit Tips
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Date: Sunday, February 24, 2013, 8:04 PM

Try NWSL they've got 'em...also an assortment of various 1 &1.2 screws and nuts..screws run from 3mm thru 7mm in length.? Just the thing when one of them itsy bity valve gear screw takes a hike somewhere out on the mainline.
JBB

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., ebtnut@... wrote:
>
> I'm with Chuck on using beeswax for a tap lubricant.? One thing I do? miss,
> and haven't been able to locate in recent years, are the 1mm valve gear?
> screws.? PFM once had them available, and they were a great alternative to?
> the rivets.? They had a 1mm thread, and a shoulder between the threads and?
> the head that was thick enough to accommodate a valve gear link.? I still?
> have a couple in the metric screws drawer, but would like some more.? You? can,
> of course, get 1mm taps.?
>?
> DM
>




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Gee maybe I could buy that box and "box-bash" it into a box for my
still-under-construction GB&W 0-6-0 #145. I mean at such a bargain price and
all I'd have to do would be to replace the box, box top and foam and I'd be
home. Probably wouldn't rum more than another forty to fifty bucks to
complete the "box-bah."



John Hagen

That would make an interesting read... Please send them along!

Well, it would be a rare item to find.

Some are around. But it will be very difficult to find any of them.

You would find it much quicker to follow one of the boiler construction articles. The most unique are the ones that show you how to take a stock pipe or tube of the smallest diameter of the boiler and wrap it to build up your boiler. It's much easier to do that, than to make a metal shell of sheetmetal cut just right to be the outer dimensions of a boiler.

I have some links and references to such articles if you'd like them

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Feb 24, 2013, at 7:12 AM, "Joel Holmes" <lehighvalley@...> wrote:

> Hi Mike,
>
> Any idea if these Wooten boilers are still arround?


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Hi Mike,

Any idea if these Wooten boilers are still arround?

Ah yes, that's always fun when that happens. The rods sort of eat
themselves and the locomotive kicks itself off the mainline...

Would it be recommended to use screws for the valve gear from the start
instead of the rivets or am I better off with the rivets? If so, which
screws should be used?

Nathan

Try NWSL they've got 'em...also an assortment of various 1 &1.2 screws and nuts..screws run from 3mm thru 7mm in length. ?Just the thing when one of them itsy bity valve gear screw takes a hike somewhere out on the mainline.
JBB

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., ebtnut@... wrote:
>
> I'm with Chuck on using beeswax for a tap lubricant. ?One thing I do ?miss,
> and haven't been able to locate in recent years, are the 1mm valve gear
> screws. ?PFM once had them available, and they were a great alternative to
> the rivets. ?They had a 1mm thread, and a shoulder between the threads and
> the head that was thick enough to accommodate a valve gear link. ?I still
> have a couple in the metric screws drawer, but would like some more. ?You ?can,
> of course, get 1mm taps.
>
> DM
>




------------------------------------

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I'm with Chuck on using beeswax for a tap lubricant. One thing I do miss,
and haven't been able to locate in recent years, are the 1mm valve gear
screws. PFM once had them available, and they were a great alternative to
the rivets. They had a 1mm thread, and a shoulder between the threads and
the head that was thick enough to accommodate a valve gear link. I still
have a couple in the metric screws drawer, but would like some more. You can,
of course, get 1mm taps.

DM

From: John Hagen
Subject: RE: [yardbirdtrains] Re: You Won't believe this Great Buy--And it's been REDUCED
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Date: Monday, February 25, 2013, 2:42 AM

?

Gee maybe I could buy that box and “box-bash” it into a box for my still-under-construction GB&W 0-6-0 #145. I mean at such a bargain price and all I’d have to do would be to replace the box, box top and foam and I’d be home. Probably wouldn’t rum more than another forty to fifty bucks to complete the “box-bah.”

?

John Hagen

?

From: yardbirdtrains@... [mailto:yardbirdtrains@...] On Behalf Of bondkarl777
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 2:59 PM
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Re: You Won't believe this Great Buy--And it's been REDUCED

?

?

Wow, I mean just wow!

--- In , Sean Naylor wrote:
>
> LOL!
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2013, at 3:54 PM, Nathan Rich wrote:
>
> > HOLY COW WHAT A STEAL! I can't believe this has such a low price!!
> >
> >
> >
> > This guy's nuts. I want to watch it to see if he ever sells it...
> >
> > Nathan
> >
> > On Feb 24, 2013 1:47 PM, "DenisL" wrote:
> >>
> >> Denis
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Yahoo! Groups Links
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>

?

?

Are you thinking coating the existing frame in resin or doing a
total replacement? I doubt that a coating would do much except
cause fitting up problems. ?As for replacement, I think that might
be a possibility. If you catch a suspect piece soon enough, before
it swells, warps, or just breaks, you might be able to get a good
mold from it. Sort of depends on how complex the part. If you can
manage a one piece mold, great. Two part still possible. Beyond
that would be difficult, I think.
Then choosing the casting material and method. A vacuum casting
to minimize bubbles might be best for a home job. I would think,
probably wrongly, that a metal containing epoxy resin would be
best for rigidity. That is what a frame is for, strength.
Devcon steel would be good, I guess. There is an aluminum sort,
called what, Alumilite or such. Might be strong enough but with
less weight. But the aluminium might flow better and give a better
casting. I haven't done much myself so I'm guessing here.
Certainly would be worth looking into for irreplaceable favorites.
I doubt that I'll run out of Mantua mikado parts.
Chuck Peck

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "Denis Long" wrote:
>
> Chuck,
>
> Oh Boy! ?Zinc rot again. ?I coated my Arbour valve linkages & rods with CA.
> Don't know if it will work, but at 74 years, it doesn't have to last too
> long.
>
> When last I ran the H8, she did OK, and with sound!
>
> What about doing the zinc frame in a resin casting?
>
> Denis
>




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