If you are thinking of LeeTown ? It was earlier than the 1980s ! I haven't seen those offered up in a while . Some of thse pieces were "add ons" if you will . They also produced a terrific "clear vision " tender . I wish[ed] they would reintroduce it , but I could'nt asfford to but it ? Cumberland Valley was the last place I saw listings for any of this stuff . Henry

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., "Joel Holmes" <lehighvalley@...> wrote:

Hi Mike,

Any idea if these Wooten boilers are still arround?

Joel Holmes

In the 80's [?] was some eastern hobby shop that produced a number of
Wooten boilers as conversion kits. One of those was the very vintage civil
war era B&O camels. He also did more than one type of 1920's or so D&H or
similar anthracite road locomotive boiler.

Can't recall the name of the place, but they were very big on Rhino-proof
shipping as they touted in every ad.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Feb 23, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "John Hagen" <sprinthag@...> wrote:

He has two of those bashed 2-8-0's. one powered, one not. Other than
that they look the same.

I still haven't figured out the boiler casting as it is not the original
Mantua 2-8-0 albeit it appears to be variation of that prototype. I
think it may very well be highly modified Cary shell with the Wooten
fire box and outside ash traps added and part of the front either lopped
off or vertically sectioned. By looking at the amount of cast on
piping/sander detail it isn't a Mantua of either era. So far as making
that much of a change to a Cary remember that the original, pre-Bowser
boiler casting could be relatively soldered which would make the huge
firebox addition possible.

But that is just my opinion that I cannot back up as there is no way I
can dig out my Cary boilered Mantua mike right now as it is packed away
for our move on March 4th. Besides I either bruised or cracked some
ribs yesterday (Damned solid ice under the freshly fallen snow) and have
serious doubts about getting down the basement stairs. And if I did, the
prospect of getting back up them seems highly unlikely right now.

John Hagen

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Ifound that with the original MP E units the flywheels were out of balance and due to their size
contributed to the noise. Elimination of them helped and Hobbytown universals should help
also. Roger Aultman


-- Jeff Pellas <jppellas@...> wrote:

=============
Nathan,
As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.


Jeff
jppellas@...




-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips






I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
Thanks!
Nathan Rich

From: Joel Holmes <lehighvalley@...>
Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Neat Mantua Kitbash
To: "Yardbird Group" <yardbirdtrains@...>
Date: Sunday, February 24, 2013, 8:


Hi Mike,



Any idea if these Wooten boilers are still arround?



Joel Holmes

In the 80's [?] was some eastern hobby shop that

produced a number of

Wooten boilers as conversion kits. One of those was the

very vintage civil

war era B&O camels. He also did more than one type of

1920's or so D&H or

similar anthracite road locomotive boiler.

Can't recall the name of the place, but they were

very big on Rhino-proof

shipping as they touted in every ad.

Best to ya...

Mike Bauers

Milwaukee, Wi, USA

On Feb 23, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "John Hagen" sprinthag@...>

wrote:

He has two of those bashed 2-8-0’s. one powered,

one not. Other than

that they look the same.

I still haven’t figured out the boiler casting as

it is not the original

Mantua 2-8-0 albeit it appears to be variation of

that prototype. I

think it may very well be highly modified Cary

shell with the Wooten

fire box and outside ash traps added and part of

the front either lopped

off or vertically sectioned. By looking at the

amount of cast on

piping/sander detail it isn’t a Mantua of either

era. So far as making

that much of a change to a Cary remember that the

original, pre-Bowser

boiler casting could be relatively soldered which

would make the huge

firebox addition possible.

But that is just my opinion that I cannot back up

as there is no way I

can dig out my Cary boilered Mantua mike right now

as it is packed away

for our move on March 4th. Besides I either

bruised or cracked some

ribs yesterday (Damned solid ice under the freshly

fallen snow) and have

serious doubts about getting down the basement

stairs. And if I did, the

prospect of getting back up them seems highly

unlikely right now.

John Hagen

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Nathan,
As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.


Jeff
jppellas@...




-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips






I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
Thanks!
Nathan Rich

Hi Mike,

Any idea if these Wooten boilers are still arround?

Joel Holmes

In the 80's [?] was some eastern hobby shop that produced a number of
Wooten boilers as conversion kits. One of those was the very vintage civil
war era B&O camels. He also did more than one type of 1920's or so D&H or
similar anthracite road locomotive boiler.

Can't recall the name of the place, but they were very big on Rhino-proof
shipping as they touted in every ad.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Feb 23, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "John Hagen" <sprinthag@...> wrote:

He has two of those bashed 2-8-0's. one powered, one not. Other than
that they look the same.

I still haven't figured out the boiler casting as it is not the original
Mantua 2-8-0 albeit it appears to be variation of that prototype. I
think it may very well be highly modified Cary shell with the Wooten
fire box and outside ash traps added and part of the front either lopped
off or vertically sectioned. By looking at the amount of cast on
piping/sander detail it isn't a Mantua of either era. So far as making
that much of a change to a Cary remember that the original, pre-Bowser
boiler casting could be relatively soldered which would make the huge
firebox addition possible.

But that is just my opinion that I cannot back up as there is no way I
can dig out my Cary boilered Mantua mike right now as it is packed away
for our move on March 4th. Besides I either bruised or cracked some
ribs yesterday (Damned solid ice under the freshly fallen snow) and have
serious doubts about getting down the basement stairs. And if I did, the
prospect of getting back up them seems highly unlikely right now.

John Hagen

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

In the 80's [?] was some eastern hobby shop that produced a number of
Wooten boilers as conversion kits. One of those was the very vintage civil
war era B&O camels. He also did more than one type of 1920's or so D&H or
similar anthracite road locomotive boiler.

Can't recall the name of the place, but they were very big on Rhino-proof
shipping as they touted in every ad.

Best to ya...
Mike Bauers
Milwaukee, Wi, USA



On Feb 23, 2013, at 6:31 PM, "John Hagen" <sprinthag@...> wrote:

He has two of those bashed 2-8-0???s. one powered, one not. Other than
that they look the same.

I still haven???t figured out the boiler casting as it is not the original
Mantua 2-8-0 albeit it appears to be variation of that prototype. I
think it may very well be highly modified Cary shell with the Wooten
fire box and outside ash traps added and part of the front either lopped
off or vertically sectioned. By looking at the amount of cast on
piping/sander detail it isn???t a Mantua of either era. So far as making
that much of a change to a Cary remember that the original, pre-Bowser
boiler casting could be relatively soldered which would make the huge
firebox addition possible.

But that is just my opinion that I cannot back up as there is no way I
can dig out my Cary boilered Mantua mike right now as it is packed away
for our move on March 4th. Besides I either bruised or cracked some
ribs yesterday (Damned solid ice under the freshly fallen snow) and have
serious doubts about getting down the basement stairs. And if I did, the
prospect of getting back up them seems highly unlikely right now.

John Hagen

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

He has two of those bashed 2-8-0’s. one powered, one not. Other than that they look the same.

I still haven’t figured out the boiler casting as it is not the original Mantua 2-8-0 albeit it appears to be variation of that prototype. I think it may very well be highly modified Cary shell with the Wooten fire box and outside ash traps added and part of the front either lopped off or vertically sectioned. By looking at the amount of cast on piping/sander detail it isn’t a Mantua of either era. So far as making that much of a change to a Cary remember that the original, pre-Bowser boiler casting could be relatively soldered which would make the huge firebox addition possible.

But that is just my opinion that I cannot back up as there is no way I can dig out my Cary boilered Mantua mike right now as it is packed away for our move on March 4th. Besides I either bruised or cracked some ribs yesterday (Damned solid ice under the freshly fallen snow) and have serious doubts about getting down the basement stairs. And if I did, the prospect of getting back up them seems highly unlikely right now.

John Hagen

?

?

Was wondering how successful some of you have been in adding DCC to some of your older steam locomotives? I'm pretty much a Bowser guy and have converted two locomotives over to DCC, but the H9 I did has a very noticable power and speed loss. The locomotive can only pull about 5 cars. I've changed the DC-71 motor to a Helix Humper and now have added a TCS decoder to it. It previously had a NEC decoder in it. Alliance Motors makers of the Helix Humper suggests the TCS decoder. I am currently to the point that I am about to add pickups to the tender trucks and locomotive frame and see if that improves the speed and power. That's my project for the week. Right now the signal is being picked up I would say traditionally. With the signal passing through the bolsters on the tender and being pick up through the drivers on the other. Still utilizing the tender for one side and the loco for the other. Let me know what you guys have done.

Mark

The U-joints being the cause of concern seems to be the consensus.

One site that I looked at elsewhere mentioned that they sometimes have a
zinc-rot problem in the frames, And to stop it from eating itself to run it
through the dishwasher, and then let it dry thoroughly and paint the frame
with rustoleum to create a protective barrier. Any creedence to this idea?
I know that there may be an issue with Power pickup that goes through the
frame but I usually hardwire a couple of leads to somewhere on the trucks.

?Jeff ! I'm in ! I have one MP E-unit pulls really well , runs like mad . And need I add noisy as the Devil ! Growls like mad , makes a cackle when you crack open the juice ? . I've got bunches of hours on it also . Just the nature of the beast I guess . I love it ! Henry

--- In yardbirdtrains@..., Jeff Pellas wrote:
>
> Nathan,
> ? ? ?As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.
>
>
> Jeff
> jppellas@...
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
> To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
> Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
> Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
> Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
> Thanks!
> Nathan Rich
>




------------------------------------

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Nathan,
As for the Model Power E units, I have a few of those and they are loud! I originally acquired them thinking about combining them with Hobbytown E-7 shells but I figured the resulting loco would be far too heavy to be practical (although I've seen dummys done that way). As far as the gear noise goes, the more run time on those locos, the louder they seem to get. Not sure why this is because you'd think the opposite would be the case. I think the main culprit is a loose fit of the universal gear linking the drive shaft and the power truck. There are two ways to alleviate this: One is simply keeping the power trucks well lubed because the less torque the universal has to transfer, the less the slop comes into play and the quieter the loco will be. The other remedy would be replacing the universal linkage altogether. In fact I would advise doing this because I believe the linkage is just too light weight for what it is required to do. I think an Athearn linkage could be adapted. A Hobbytown universal set would be ideal (if you could marry it to the Model power parts) because they can handle practically any amount of torque and you can customize the length of the drive shaft.


Jeff
jppellas@...




-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Rich <thaddeusthudpucker@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Fri, Feb 22, 2013 12:52 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Old Kit Tips






I picked up some old Tyco/Mantua kits at a show recently and I want to put them together. They're mid 70's vintage and complete, and I got them for a steal. I'll use Dan's can motors in place of the stock motors and install DCC as I go. Can anybody give any tips on putting these together? I have a Pacific, a mikado, a General, and I can't remember what the other is (they're at home and I'm on the road).
Also, at the same show I picked up some old Model Power E units, any tips on quieting them down? If I can get the noise down they seem like they'd pull like beasts.
Thanks!
Nathan Rich

Yep, I totally agree with Tom, under no load, it should draw less than .5 amp, even that is a bit on the high side from what I have seen. What you may wish to do is to try the motor outside the mechanism and see what current it draws. If it is still high, the magnets are likely old and weak. You can replace them with neodymium magnets if you wish. If the current draw for the motor by itself is low, then definitely the mechanism needs tuning/fixing.
Regards, Vic Bitleris

Vic Bitleris
Raleigh, NC

To: yardbirdtrains@...
From: tomk@...
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 09:29:39 -0600
Subject: Re: [yardbirdtrains] Re: Adding DCC to Bowser, Pennline, John English, or Varney Locomotives





























2 amps? With no load? Wow. This seems
excessive, even for a DC 71 X 2. Sounds to me like the mechanisms
are not yet free-running.



I have been a proponent of always series wiring twin motors. This
gives down low "Grunt", and helps match the speed of the motors.
It also will cut current draw in half. It also will slow an engine
down to a realistic level. To do this with open frame motors, one
of them must be have its brushes totally isolated from the frame,
much like what we do when we apply DCC to these old motors. Try it
you'll never go back to parallel.

Tom Knowles
NOTE NEW ADDRESS: tomk@...
On 1/2/2013 7:31 PM, allegheny american wrote:






Glad to hear your on the right track Mark. I learned
something new, my decoder does run in DC! i checked the
digitrax website and you can change a cv to allow it to
run in analog. I had no idea.



anyways, im running the DH123 hard wired, it does not have
back emf. I bought these decoders for consisting, i
thought i had read not to use back emf decoders if your
running a consists, which i like to do for pulling coal
hoppers. i threw this one into my little mantua just to
get a switcher going, and it worked pretty good. I had
mine running in DC quite well before doing the conversion.
I like to put a gear box on it to help out, not sure if
Dan was still selling them or not. I dont see them on his
website now.



I know this area well, where the trucks mount to the
tender, thanks to the great guys on this forum. i had
cleaned mine before and put some wahl clipper on them. it
makes pretty good contact.



I like the helix humper motors, i bought a couple of them
to remotor two brass M1A's. ive got one done, ready for a
dcc decoder.



Speaking of the DC-71 bowser mootors, i have them in my
Bowser T1 they did a rerun of a couple years ago. i do not
have a power supply big enough to run it more than a few
minutes before it trips the breaker. ive done everything i
can think of to lower the current draw, and ive measured
it and at one point it hit around 2 amps.



TCS makes a great decoder. i see the videos of the ones
that have the keep alive power. i think ill put one in
this mantua 0-6-0, being that i have a lot of #8 turnouts,
that dont have powered frogs. DO you have pics of your
engine on here, id like to see it. i love the bowser
steamers.



Jerry



--- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"twilight022765" <twilight022765@> wrote:

>

> Jerry, I am now back in DCC. I discovered another
cleaning spot I had not thought of before. When I isolated
the decoder to just the the locomotive and ran it with a
jumper wire to the track, the loco seemed to operate with
a little more guts. Raped ape I'm not to sure of, but it
was similiar to what I saw when I had it running in DC. .
I rehooked the black lead to the tender body and the
locomotive respond poorly again. So that told me the
problem is in the tender someplace. The spot for cleaning
I didn't think of before was where the wheelset points
rest in the tender trucks. They were filled with crud. I
cleaned them all out with Goo Gone(went to Walmart for the
Flitz but they didn't have it in the store, only online).
And when I put the locomotive back together and on the
test track, the H9 responded better, at least the
operation was smooth and clean. I need to re-do the
lighting circuit now and repaint the tender body(I redid
the tender body because of a decal problem). I might just
reassemble it the way it is right now to take it to the
club and test it out. I want to see how the speed and
power are. Will see what tonight and tomorrow brings.

>

> Does the Digitrax decoder you mentioned have Bemf or
something similiar? I just checked the specs real quick
and I did not see anything that mentioned it. I used to
use Digitrax decoders but began having difficulties with
them and changed to NCE which is the DCC system my club
uses. The decoder I have installed now in the H9 is a TCS
which was recommended by the makers of the Helix Humper.
We have other club members that have TCS decoders and they
really like them. So this is actually my second one, first
in a Bowser. We'll see what happens when I get it to the
club.

>

> Thanks everybody for there input. If you know
something else to try don't hesitate to mention it.

>

> Mark

>

> --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"allegheny american" <alleghenyamerican@> wrote:

> >

> > I literally just put a DH123D digitrax decoder
into an old mantua 0-6-0 and tested it out and it runs
like a raped ape. probably about 400 scale mph. look at my
pictures in jerrys kitsmashing. i have a few photos of the
install.

> >

> > im testing mine with dcc. once the decoder is
installed you cannot put straight DC to it, unless you
disconnect the decoder first. Let me know if i can help
you out.

> >

> > Jerry

> >

> > --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"allegheny american" <alleghenyamerican@> wrote:

> > >

> > > Are you trying to apply straight dc voltage
to the H9 with the decoder installed? I just want to be
clear before i respond anymore.

> > >

> > > Jerry

> > >

> > > --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"twilight022765" <twilight022765@> wrote:

> > > >

> > > > Today I was able to make the H9
operate in DC and it seems to move much quicker and
stronger. I have also isolated the decoder to just the
locomotive and via a jumper wire(alligator clips)to the
opposite rail, operated the locomotive and I think I see
equal results as compared to the operation in DC. So, this
has narrowed me down to, dirty tender wheels, poor pickup
from tender wheels, or defective plug and socket from
Minitronics I use in between the tender and the cab(I have
installed my decoders in the tender). My next step is to
eliminate the plug and socket and see where we go from
there.

> > > >

> > > > Mark

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"twilight022765" <twilight022765@> wrote:

> > > > >

> > > > > Update, I just was able to
operate the H9 in DC with the decoder in place, it ran
nice and strong! Where to go from here? I think I need to
refigure how the motor is fed from the decoder and figure
out a pickup scheme.

> > > > >

> > > > > Mark

> > > > >

> > > > > --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"emmettdene" <emmettdene@> wrote:

> > > > > >

> > > > > >

> > > > > >

> > > > > > check the files section. i
did a project a couple of years ago adding dcc to a mantua
mike and posted it there.

> > > > > > emmet d

> > > > > >

> > > > > >

> > > > > >

> > > > > > --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
"twilight022765" <twilight022765@> wrote:

> > > > > > >

> > > > > > > Jeff, I think you got a
little mixed up or I may not have been clear with my
discription. The H9 is operating with a Helix Humper right
now. I switched out the dc-71 when I built it. If I apply
DC voltage to the motor with the decoder disconnected the
Humper sails. This is with leads coming directly from the
transformer to the posts of the motor. When, I have the
decoder in place is where I see the loss of power. I need
to find what CV allows the decoder to run both DC and DCC.
I plan to look at that tomorrow. I liked what you said
about the "unexpected current draw", though, which has
been a feeling I've had for some time. However the the
head light is a LED.

> > > > > > >

> > > > > > > I am going to give the
pickups a try as mentioned in the other posts. There has
been alot of good sugestions made for me to check out. And
I am glad to see that these old steamers can be converted
over with success. I've seen a Bowser I1 with DCC and
sound on youtube that is pulling like 30 40ft boxcars and
it's pretty impressive. Someday, I'll have my Huh-ha
moment and I'll recognize what's going on with my H9.

> > > > > > >

> > > > > > > Thanks for the
suggestions, Mark

> > > > > > >

> > > > > > > --- In yardbirdtrains@...,
Jeff Pellas <jppellas@> wrote:

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > > Mark.

> > > > > > > > Are you saying
that you had a power loss with a new decoder paired with a
DC-71 motor THEN went to a Helix Humper and are still
having the same problem? If you were using the latest
version of the Bowser DC-71 then you should have had
plenty of power with or without a decoder. I know a guy
who regularly replaces older open frame motors in brass
models with the Bowser DC-71 because it is so much
smoother, more powerful and is perfectly compatible with
the Lok Sound decoders he uses. If you went to a Helix
Humper and STILL have no power while the rest of your
locos have plenty of power then the culprit is definitely
the decoder OR something having to do with the decoder...
like wiring or an unexpected current draw. Are you using
the old style filament light bulbs or did you switch to
LEDs when you converted to DCC? Filament bulbs draw a lot
more current than LEDs. Your decoder might not be
compatible with the older light bulbs causing a loss of
pulling power.

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > > Jeff

> > > > > > > > jppellas@

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > >

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> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > > -----Original
Message-----

> > > > > > > > From:
twilight022765 <twilight022765@>

> > > > > > > > To: yardbirdtrains
<yardbirdtrains@...>

> > > > > > > > Sent: Sun, Dec 30,
2012 9:52 pm

> > > > > > > > Subject:
[yardbirdtrains] Adding DCC to Bowser, Pennline, John
English, or Varney Locomotives

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > >

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> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > > Was wondering how
successful some of you have been in adding DCC to some of
your older steam locomotives? I'm pretty much a Bowser guy
and have converted two locomotives over to DCC, but the H9
I did has a very noticable power and speed loss. The
locomotive can only pull about 5 cars. I've changed the
DC-71 motor to a Helix Humper and now have added a TCS
decoder to it. It previously had a NEC decoder in it.
Alliance Motors makers of the Helix Humper suggests the
TCS decoder. I am currently to the point that I am about
to add pickups to the tender trucks and locomotive frame
and see if that improves the speed and power. That's my
project for the week. Right now the signal is being picked
up I would say traditionally. With the signal passing
through the bolsters on the tender and being pick up
through the drivers on the other. Still utilizing the
tender for one side and the loco for the other. Let me
know what you guys have done.

> > > > > > > >

> > > > > > > > Mark

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>

This of course, is the bane of the custom modeler.

Tom Knowles
NOTE NEW ADDRESS: tomk@...

On 2/22/2013 7:34 AM, Jeff Pellas wrote:

I tried to get them to sell some drivers to me directly but they just
won't do it... which seems like an incredible waste because I'm sure
they have lots of junk locos that get returned to them for one reason
or another and they just end up in their dumpster. This is not
because there's anything particularly wrong with more recent Bachmann
offerings, it's simply a result of the huge volume of sales they
handle. There'll always be a percentage of lemons! Anyway, from a
business standpoint, not having to support a line of replacement parts
keeps their overhead ...and payroll low. It's easier and cheaper for
them to just replace a given locomotive or car instead of fix it or
try to figure out what parts to send back so the modeler they could
fix it.

Jeff
jppellas@...


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan <albyrno@...>
To: yardbirdtrains <yardbirdtrains@...>
Sent: Thu, Feb 21, 2013 4:22 pm
Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Bachmann parts

I am wanting to get some parts from bachmann and when I sent inquiry
as to payment accepted this is the response I got.

We currently do not sell directly to consumers. Our direct order Parts
Department does not accept Pay Pal.
Best regards,
The Sales Team
Bachmann Industries, Inc.

Does this mean they don't sell rtr equipment to public or just
parts,have been trying for days to get a hold of a real live person to
talk with but they have only replied by e-mail and not returned my calls.
Could this be a result of the storms?
Alan

?

Dave,

? That pretty much confirms my suspicions about them as to a poorly run/managed company,the wasted time in warranty of defective items alone is a waste,IMO most of their problems could have been avoided if inherent issues were addressed/repaired before selling item avoiding costly returns,their reputation and sales would be a lot better(they likely have lost hundreds of thousands of dollars from model railroaders).I am only wanting the drivers due to price which with botchman product may only be as good as you pay for,had planned to acc drivers to axles,hoping they wouldn't fall off,planned to use these for locos I'm scratchbuilding.Thought I'd give them another try but considering prior experiences with them and their lack of communication with potential clients,I had not told them what I wanted,I could potentially have been a huge order from distibutor they lost out on, I don't think I will pursue getting the parts from them.

?I ran across someone with a bunch of (junk?) locos/parts he wants to sell that may have what I need,desctiption is vague.

?Alan

Botchmann Parts. Depends, really, on who has taken control this week. Did the Director of Product Developmemnt take control? Did the Communications Director take control??
Did the parts and service manager get fired again?
Did the manager decide it was "too hard" to fix returned locomotives, and just send out $10K worth of replacements this week?
Was there another fight over who is in charge, resulting in returned locomotives going through the crusher on the loading dock?
I could go on and on......maybe you need to check the time of the month on your calendar. Or the phase of the moon.
I will never, as in ever, buy a new Bachmann product again.
Since Howard Lee changes design so often (is it an attempt to get something to work reliably? I will leave you to decide that) older units have zero parts availability.
Everybopdy in Philly seems to want to play "King of the Hill", so the lack of desire to sell parts today may change by?Monday morning.
I could tell you so much....but the Yahoo software would cut off the reply before I even got 10% out.
Dave