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PRR Atlas fp7a ?

 

I'm trying to add a Cal Scale Passenger pilot to the nose of this unit . this frame won't be a snap to hang it under the nose . I thought of thin sheet plastic to curve and bond to it ? If I ''chicken out" I can leave the door closed on the pilot ??? It's already dolled up pretty well . Just want to add that last piece of ''jewelry'' ?? Henry H.
Questions about a Barney loco ??

 

LOL !! I have a Bowser Nclass 2-10-2 that needs to pull up its footboard pilot . Right now it's way , way too low for railhead clearance .. The situation is this , the pilot gets pulled up into the frame from below . But then it needs to line up with the huge air tank that sits on top ! You can get close but no bueno . Do you use a rubber [?] shim under that tank to pull it up some more ?? Thanks all ? Barney and I will be waiting your replies ??? Henry H. Moderator ?? PS feel free to add more ??
Re: Bowser DC-71 new motor noise

 

Sometimes nothing works but on my bowsers I like taking the slack out of the armature shaft with Neal thrust washers. This involves removing the armature. Don¡¯t worry about it. ?I never noticed any performance degradation when reassembled and I¡¯m not the only one with the same experience. I suspect that the bowser magnets are sintered alnico?magnets with better retentiiveness than the older cast alnicos from back in the day. If u make the slack too tight you¡¯ll get a high pitch whine. ?Try for a less than 1 mil slack and then adjust the worm to worm gear spacing. Good luck.?

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On?Monday, March 19, 2018,?fred_hanes@... [yardbirdtrains]?<yardbirdtrains@...>?wrote:

?

Hi Group thanks for all the eeegreat tips.


The Bowser motor by itself now runs pretty quiet.


With the motor attached to the chassis and the basic drive train assembled, I get noise going forward but almost silence in reverse.


I've tried shim washers under the motor to change the gear mesh but no big changes in noise.? Should I try washers under both the front and rear motor mounting points at the same time?


Maybe noise is coming from the axles turning in the bearings?? I see some play when the wheels are turning.


I wish I had a nice power supply setup with a current meter, maybe down the road.? For now I'd be happy to tune the motor by ear so that the noise forward equals the noise in reverse,


Any tips?
Re: Bowser DC-71 new motor noise

 

Hi Doug and group,


Thanks so much for the tips.


The Bowser motor is running pretty quiet by itself now.


When the motor is attached to the chassis with the basic drive train of side rods, main rods, and crossheads installed, I get a lot more noise going forwards than backwards.?? Reverse is almost silent.? How I wish I could get less noise going forward.


I've tried shim washers under the motor to change the gear mesh but I don't seem to make a difference so far. Should I keep fiddling with shims?? Maybe at both the front and back mounting points at the same time?


Any further thoughts on more noise going forward vs reverse?


I wish I had a nice power station with volt and amp meters to really see the current load for fine tuning.? But I can hear something seems wrong and hope that I can use my ears to tune up the system.


Thanks in advance!


Fred
Re: Bowser DC-71 new motor noise

 

Hi Group thanks for all the great tips.


The Bowser motor by itself now runs pretty quiet.


With the motor attached to the chassis and the basic drive train assembled, I get noise going forward but almost silence in reverse.


I've tried shim washers under the motor to change the gear mesh but no big changes in noise.? Should I try washers under both the front and rear motor mounting points at the same time?


Maybe noise is coming from the axles turning in the bearings?? I see some play when the wheels are turning.


I wish I had a nice power supply setup with a current meter, maybe down the road.? For now I'd be happy to tune the motor by ear so that the noise forward equals the noise in reverse,


Any tips?
Re: Bowser DC-71 new motor noise

 

Fred, list,

DC71 motors in a good state of tune (broken in and lubricated) are pretty quiet when run by themselves.? Once in the Bowser models, there's some gear and chassis noise.??

A bright boy (or equivalent product) can remove light rust/tarnish.? Without seeing a picture of your motor, I don't think the rust is the cause of the noise...you'd have to have a great deal of rust for that to happen.

Before you change anything (like brush tension), can you figure out how much current the motor is drawing?? An older DC71 would draw about 1 amp at 12 volts once broken in.? If you're over 1 amp and the motor is noisy, you might have too much brush tension.? I have a power pack with meters specifically so I can break in and/or diagnose balky engines.??

I usually break in the motor with the model....running an assembled chassis for about an hour in each direction at varying speeds with frequent stops and starts helps break in a new motor and highlights any remaining issues with your chassis assembly.

Doug


On Saturday, March 10, 2018, 8:29:37 PM PST, fred_hanes@... [yardbirdtrains] wrote:

Hi group,


I'm building a bowser HO steam loco I got on EBAY and I've just tried out the DC-71 motor.? It makes a lot of noise that seems to come from the brushes.

When I pinch back on the brush spring to ease off the pressure, there is less noise.? Is a break-in period normal and how much will that fix the noise?

I also see some rust on the motor poles.? Might that cause some imbalance and make noise?? What's a good way to clean off the rust?

I cleaned off the commutator so it is bright and shiny.?? I gave the bearings a little oil.

Any tips?

Thanks.? Fred,


(snip)
_
Re: Loco derailing - Bachman Spectrum 460

 

Try making a radius checking tool ?? You might have a ''kink'' in that spot ? Run that loco through that curve in the other direction . If it derails there ? Then the cyuve is out of radius ?? Henry H.
Re: Bowser DC-71 new motor noise

 

Hi Fred , oil the bearings , be stingy with it tho' . DC71 motors are noisy unlike today's can motors .However , you will NEVER bog down one of these in a good rolling Bowser loco . They lug really well .? Henry H. moderator , welcome .
Re: Bowser motor break-in??

 

Overall there is no "break in) for the motors Just make sure that the front and rear bearings are oiled. Put a little oil on then and let them sit for a while, add a touch more and let it run. Should be quiet.??


On Saturday, March 10, 2018 11:32 AM, "fred_hanes@... [yardbirdtrains]" wrote:


?
I have a Bowser loco kit I bought on EBAY that had?probably sat on the shelf for some years.

I just tried out the DC-71 motor for the first time and it is very noisy.? Does this motor improve after some break-in period?

If I squeeze the motor brushes so they don't push as hard, the noise is less.? I'm running it by itself, not attached to the model.

I notice that the motor poles have some rust.? Is that making the motor unbalanced?? what should I do to remove the rust?

I have cleaned up the commutator so it is nice and shiny.? I oiled the bearings.

Any help?

Thanks!
Bowser DC-71 new motor noise

 

Hi group,


I'm building a bowser HO steam loco I got on EBAY and I've just tried out the DC-71 motor.? It makes a lot of noise that seems to come from the brushes.


When I pinch back on the brush spring to ease off the pressure, there is less noise.? Is a break-in period normal and how much will that fix the noise?


I also see some rust on the motor poles.? Might that cause some imbalance and make noise?? What's a good way to clean off the rust?


I cleaned off the commutator so it is bright and shiny.?? I gave the bearings a little oil.


Any tips?


Thanks.? Fred,
Bowser motor break-in??

 

I have a Bowser loco kit I bought on EBAY that had?probably sat on the shelf for some years.


I just tried out the DC-71 motor for the first time and it is very noisy.? Does this motor improve after some break-in period?


If I squeeze the motor brushes so they don't push as hard, the noise is less.? I'm running it by itself, not attached to the model.


I notice that the motor poles have some rust.? Is that making the motor unbalanced?? what should I do to remove the rust?


I have cleaned up the commutator so it is nice and shiny.? I oiled the bearings.


Any help?


Thanks!
John English 0-4-0 Chassis needed

 

Hey Guys,


Does any one have a JE 0-4-0 Yardbird Chassis available?


Don't need the motor.


Thanks,

Jeff
Re: Pulleys and Belts instead of gears

 

Hi Jeff. The chassis is from a Rivarossi U25C.

Nelson
Re: Pulleys and Belts instead of gears

 

Nelson,

What chassis is that second pic from?

-Jeff
Cdn.
Re: Pulleys and Belts instead of gears

 


Nelson, That¡¯s a great tip and thanks for the great photos also. I should be able to find pulleys like that at my local recycling place. Very good idea.
Richard in Vermont
Re: Varney F3s

 

Not too shabby Jeff ! Nice buy , when those F3s were new ? Close was good enough . Prototype came a little later . Nice paint on them . Bueno ! Henry

--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 2/21/18, Jeff Pellas jppellas@... [yardbirdtrains] <yardbirdtrains@...> wrote:

Subject: [yardbirdtrains] Varney F3s
To: yardbirdtrains@...
Date: Wednesday, February 21, 2018, 1:28 PM


?









Just thought I'd share a recent eBay get. Set
of plastic Varney shells lettered for the PRR. Even though
the scheme isn't perfect, Im going to leave them
as-is.?

Jeff
jppellas@...









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Re: Pulleys and Belts instead of gears

 

Richard,

You can find pulleys in old tape drives, and even some computer disk drives use a belt and pulleys for the drawer mechanism. I did a repower on a Riv U25C years ago with a small square belt and pulleys that worked really well.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t131/NickelPlate759/Rivarossi%20U25C%20Belt%20Drive/DSCF0368-800x600.jpg

?

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t131/NickelPlate759/Rivarossi%20U25C%20Belt%20Drive/DSCF0390-800x600.jpg

?


The small pulley on the motor shaft and large one on the gearbox add some extra reduction to the gearbox, but with a steamer all of your reduction would be limited to the pulleys alone. That's probably going to make it too fast, even if you make the pulley on the axle as close to the driver diameter as possible. I would cut a groove for the belt into the existing axle gear if I was to try it, though.

Nelson
Varney F3s

 

Just thought I'd share a recent eBay get. Set of plastic Varney shells lettered for the PRR. Even though the scheme isn't perfect, Im going to leave them as-is.?

Jeff
jppellas@...
Re: 1mm screws

 

Did you try PSC in Montana ? Or the successor NWSL ? They had em ? Bowser had [/] some? Mantua rivits ? If it's PFM , it probably needs to be tighter ??? ?Henry H.
Re: 1mm screws

 

I use ordinary sewing pins in place of rivets or tiny screws. To hold them in place a tiny bit of solder works for me or if you are very careful a bit of super glue will work also.
Richard in Vermont
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